ALL my intirior lights DONTT work. My overhaed one..(No bulb but tested and no voltage..the two curtisy lights and little one in the hatch area. and the one in the consle my cluster ones work. and all fuses are good. and how do i fuigure out if i have the factory subs and stuff..I have a lot of q's please take the time im new to the late model third gens
Also my rear hatch pull down does not "pop" open when the button is pressed and it does not "Pull" shut.
Also my auto mirriors dont work (Is it the switch?) and my auto door lock motors dont work.
And i figured out why most cruise controls dont work on third gens...every time I turn on my blinker i turn my cc on..lol

 

hmmmm i will look at my wire diagram for the car and see if i can see where a problem like that is coming from.......in the mean time, take a test light or multi meter and see if you have voltage going to the fuses, W/B and tell us the results on that (if you need help on how to do that W/B and ask how)

 

Cool can do. I'll do that tomorrow.

 

Alright, it sounds like a bad fuse for the interior lights...I would try a new fuse in the interior lighting slot just for grins to see if it fixes that. The one may look good, but be blown.

The locks are probably a bad switch, try testing that first or replacing it as that is usually what goes on these cars over the lock actuator. Plus it is cheap.

Mirrors, check to see if you get voltage/signal to the window mirror when you use the switch. I found on mine when i took them off for paint that when I hooked them back up, driver's side didn't work. Turned out to be corrosion in the connector and it just had to be cleaned out. Check your electrical connections first and make sure there is no corrosion...cheaper and easier to fix first before swapping switches and mirrors, etc.

The rear hatch motor is probably like almost every other third gen hatch motor and is just out. Replace the motor and it will probably work fine again. Though even with the pull down motor out, the switch should still release the hatch. Check the button/switch on that too to make sure signal is reaching the hatch motor to release when the button is pushed.

You'll probably have to pull some interior plastics and door panels to check some of this stuff, so if you haven't already, you may want to. Otherwise, you can just throw new switches at it and see if that fixes some of these if you would rather spend the money up front as a diagnostic tool over the time of testing and pulling interior parts.

 

All those problems sound like the ACC fuse in the fuse panel is open. The most common culprit for this is the cigarette lighter and/or its wiring. All these things are on the 20A ACC circuit - dome light, hatch motor, power locks, power mirrors, under hood light (if so equipped), horn, cigarette lighter.

 

X2.

 

dome lights are on the CTSY 20A fuse, so is the switch for the PDL's but the PDL motor is on the PWR ACC, dont have info for the PM's and hatch on my diagram for an 87 thats odd, seems wierd that all the items mentioned are "hot at all times" and not "on with key in on or acc"

 

I went out and pulled that fuse just to check the theory. It was the ACC fuse 20A. Dome lights went out, locks & mirrors didn't work, and neither did the hatch release. CTSY, ACC, probably just the way they are labeled in some model years, my 89 has ACC.

 

Cool thanks. I'll Go check the fuse. So it may look fine but really be Bad?..Because it looks perfectly fine. I just threw some new plugs in last night. All my old plugs were VERY loose. How could loose plugs Affect how my car runs