My door locks stick really bad, so bad to the point that I disarmed my keyless entry because they don't unlock all the way when you hit the unlock button...And on top of that, when you hit the lock/unlock buttons on the door, they will halfway lock/unlock. You have to actually push the lever in or out if you want to lock and unlock the doors. So how do you go about fixing this problem? I'd really like to be able to use my keyless entry again, but it's pointless right now if they won't even unlock all the way.

Input?

 

its been covered many times, but I'll let you know. I had the same problem when I installed my keyless entry so I thought my actuators were shot. They weren't. Pop the door panel off and WD-40 THE HELL out of all the locking components. Specially the actuator. Lift up the boot on the actuator and drown it in WD-40. Soak the locking mechanism and all the rods. Go ahead and soak the window tracks aswell...

 

Aside from the above, I'd recommend some white grease. While you're in the door, you might consider some of the following:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...servation.html

JamesC

 

Thanks alot for this post blu... i have the same problem on the driver door. Unlock works fine but when you hit the lock, only the passenger door locks and the driver goes about half way and does not lock. I will take everyones advice and lube it up and fix the rattles as the driver door bangs around to the point I am afraid the window is going to shatter where the passenger door shuts like new.

1000 thanks again. I have been meaning to ask this.

 

WD40 is great for cleaning and freeing up dirty/stuck linkages and mechanisms. But, it does not do a great job of providing lubrication for the parts you are talking about. Too thin. You need to clean all the parts, then lube them with some grease, as James mentions.

 

type of grease?

 

White lithium grease.

JamesC

 

 

THERE ARE SEVERAL ADJUSTMENT TO MAKE THE GLASS NOT RATTLE INSIDE THE DOOR. HAYNES AND CHILTON MANUALS SHOW AND TELL WHAT TO DO. SOMETIMES, JUST REPLACING THE FELT TRIM WILL HELP.

 

I sat in my friend's Cutlass from the same year as my Camaro and realized that the door locks (exact same design as ours) worked so much better and moved freely and smoothly.

As already mentioned, I went inside the door panels and soaked everything with WD40 and now my door locks work perfect. One hit of the button and they slam fully locked or unlocked on both sides. Little things like this make these cars so much easier to daily drive.

 

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, in fact it will remove lubricant that you may have. Triflow is a lubricant, although is very thin. White lithium grease, or even cheap wheel bearing grease would be better.

 

You can get many different kinds of grease in a spray can including white lithium, which I would recommend. Clean the latch up good and then spray it with grease. You could brush grease in if you happen to have the latch out of the door. And yes ... do the window tracks while you're in there.

 

Its been over a year since the WD-40 bath and mine is still working great....

 

what about the chain lube i use on my 4 wheeler.

 

if its white lithium grease fire away the reason why they say white lithium grease is that wd-40 works but it drys quickly, in other words it will not last long, white lithium grease will keep you from having to go back into the door for a while, 2000 model honda civic have this problem, the windows are rolled down roll em up and they pop off track, open the doors and waste a can of white lithium grease in the tracks and i haven had a problem ever since.

 

I don't question that. However, it works because the WD-40 rinsed out the dirty greasy gunk that was in there, not because it is adding significant lubrication of its own. Light oil != WD-40.

 

Are you saying that I am ruining the moving parts of my door latch mechanism?

 

I think it's safe to say that you washed out most if not all of the lubricant. That means you are subjecting the parts to more wear than necessary. On the other hand you also washed out most if not all of the built up dirt, which is also an abrasive. If your parts work good clean imagine how well they'll work with lubricant.

 

I'm saying it's almost the same as if you took them apart, cleaned them with soap, water, and a toothbrush, and then put them back together with no lubricant at all. I say close because the WD-40 residue that's still in there is probably attracting little abrasive bits of dirt.
Fixing a lubrication issue with WD-40 is like fixing a leaky gas tank by pouring in more gasoline. It may cover the symptom for a while, but it does not by any means fix the problem.
Perhaps a better analogy is WD-40 == gasoline (or kerosene) as far as lubrication is concerned. Is acts as a solvent to dissolve the gunk, but then drip/evaporates off leaving behind a non lubricated joint.

 

Please People!! we are talking about door locks, not a main bearing. Just clean with wd-40 or soap and water, then take a few drops of motor oil and it will be fine.