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I reset the latch switch and now it goes up and down but cannot be activated remotely. I am assuming my switch is bad, even plugged in another used one, still no go. Is there a way to tell with a multimeter if the switch is bad or not? Any suggestion on where to get a new switch?
TIA
Geoff
Call me and I'll explain how to test your reversing switch. I sell both the 86-early 91 style reversing switch and the late 91-92 reversing switch.
Correct only for Firebird. Incorrect info for Camaro.
On a Firebird the hatch fuse is 15 amps and is in a single fuse holder that is attached to the outside of the fuse block. It can be removed from the fuse block, since the fuse holder has a channel that slips onto a dovetal molded into the outside of th fuse block, so if you can't find it attached look for it near the fuse block.
On a Camaro the hatch fuse is called the LID fuse in the fuse block. It again is a 15 amp.
Before you go looking for a blown fuse, remove the hatch surround trim panel and test that you have power at the red/white stripe wire that plugs into the blue wire.
Lon
Oh Man! I thought that was an add on fuse box for my now non-functioning security system. Well, good news is that my $320 New pull down unit will last longer than my 29 year old stock one.
So as a final follow up, I fixed the problem by thoroughly cleaning the entire mechanism with BraKlean and relubing with a light silicone lubricant and it works fine. I still have an issue with no power at the switch on the dash, but I think that may be related to missing power from all my internal lighting as well. Still working on that.
is there anyway to wire up a relay to work latch popper and or rear hatch pull down motor
who ever had this car before me hacked up the wiring i know it runs thru the sns but in my case the car starts in every gear i found that out the hard way
I reset the latch switch and now it goes up and down but cannot be activated remotely. I am assuming my switch is bad, even plugged in another used one, still no go. Is there a way to tell with a multimeter if the switch is bad or not? Any suggestion on where to get a new switch?
TIA
Geoff
I just puled my car out of winter storage and opened the hatch. When I closed the hatch, it did not catch. The motor is running, but it does not pull the hatch down. I tried disconnecting the battery, but it still runs when I hook it back up. Is this problem likely the plastic gear? I have not pulled anything apart yet.
Make sure the ground wire is present. There is a short ground wire that goes from the 10mm screw that attaches the solenoid release to the latch assy. The other end goes to the body ground location below the pull-down unit. The solenoid is isolated from ground by the guides and will not work without the ground wire in place.
Ok, so I tried to fix my trunk motor assembly today, replaced the motor 1992 camaro for the trunk motor assembly, also replaced the plastic gear on the inside. I lightly shut the trunk, and it pulled it down nice and tight...I went to pop it open with my trunk open button on the center console and nothing happened...so I went to open the trunk with my key behind the license plate, and nothing happened it's SHUT even my key doesn't release it now?
what's the deal, it seems like I fixed 1 problem and now introduced another, now I can't open my trunk at all?
Also my trunk/cargo interior light is on, and all the doors are shut...it thinks the trunk is open or something? why would it stay on.
Sounds like you may have bolted the motor onto your trunk's rear wall to LOW.
I had issues releasing the hatch due to that once. Maybe your motor is unable to pull the hatch down far enough to trigger the reversal switch, so that motor will still be "running", as in "getting hot".
Can you still get to the main bolts of the mechanism from the inside? Loosen them up then.
Else, I would recommend disconnecting the respective fuse for now until you find a way to get the hatch open.
Perhaps you are able to remove the trunk light housing, remove the bolt for the remote release mechanism behind it and then try triggering the release with a screw driver.
I agree the entire pull-down unit may be mounted too low. Unfortunately his is a 91.5-92 style pull-down unit which doesn't have the solenoid release. I'm not sure if he can access the screw that holds the manual hatch release to the latch assy from the hole that the interior hatch light resides. If not most likely he will have to cut a hole in the rear hatch trim panel, then later replace it with one from a donor car.
I'll check the location of the brownish plastic part and see if I can loosen it up and pull it up some and re tighten it down...The rear plastic panel isn't an issue right now, I had that pulled off before I shut the trunk, so the motor assembly is accessible. I just have to crawl in the back seat and get to it that way. I managed to get the trunk stuck twice last night, and got it back open by using the trunk release switch in the middle console.
The weird thing is that it didn't always work...I do believe that the key has to be in the ignition with it turned to the power accessory position for the trunk release switch to work though. But again, I tried that once and it didn't work...and another time it did...
I don't need my key in ignition for my remote release to work.
The systems are designed with a few failsafes, though.
The switch will not release the hatch while the vehicle is in gear or moving (not sure if you can trick it by going into neutral or if you need to be in "park").
What I'm saying is, there may be some wonky connector somewhere, checking your gear selector.
Anyway... the key MUST unlock and release the hatch using the lock in the rear.
If it doesn't, either the lock or the wire going from lock to latch is damaged, as this part is mechanical and not electric.
The release button just triggers a relay or solenoid to physically move a component, simulating what you're doing with your key back there at the lock.
Hmm, well it seems today the trunk release button works just fine without the key in the ignition. I could have sworn it didn't before, but I could be wrong. So ya now I'm just having that issue of the the assembly not releasing the hatch, so the motor goes up and then pulls it right back down, because the trunk is still latched.
With the trunk in the latched and all the way down position..the key does nothing to unlock the trunk, I can turn the key, but it does nothing. What I have to do is hit the trunk release button, run to the back of the car, and while the motor is still pushing the trunk up, I put in the key and unlock the latch and pull up on the hatch so the motor won't bring it back down again. Any thoughts on why the key will unlock it when the trunk is being raised, but does nothing when it's in it's all the way down position?
Remove the manual release cable and look at the function of it. Turn the key and see if the cable is pulling and rotating the center of it. I suspect that something has broken where the cable enters the box that contains the rotating piece which is screwed onto the latch release stem. I have some available if yours is bad.
Great thread!
I am having this problem with my brother Mike's 88 IROC-Z which I inherited...22,000 original miles! Here's a photo of the latch mechanism. If it's not good enough I can take another. It looks like the latch is partly in the down position. Triggering the striker sensor switch does nothing. The battery is fully charged, but I think this started when I opened the hatch when the battery was dead. Maybe the closing and reversing switches have since failed as well, or the motor. The motor doesn't run at all when I attempt to close it, or open it with the key, but I here a "click" near the driver's side area, maybe under the dash, and the "Lid" fuse is good. I plan to order those switches from Lon unless someone has more ideas I can try out first. I have a multitester but am not experienced much in using it.
Great thread!
I am having this problem with my brother Mike's 88 IROC-Z which I inherited...22,000 original miles! Here's a photo of the latch mechanism. If it's not good enough I can take another. It looks like the latch is partly in the down position. Triggering the striker sensor switch does nothing. The battery is fully charged, but I think this started when I opened the hatch when the battery was dead. Maybe the closing and reversing switches have since failed as well, or the motor. The motor doesn't run at all when I attempt to close it, or open it with the key, but I here a "click" near the driver's side area, maybe under the dash, and the "Lid" fuse is good. I plan to order those switches from Lon unless someone has more ideas I can try out first. I have a multitester but am not experienced much in using it.
tom
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Call and I'll give you instructions on how to test the reversing switch using your multimeter. I suspect yours has failed.
Thanks for the help, Lon. I pulled the white plug on the reversal switch, inserted a multimeter lead into the tiny left or right holes on the left side of the black reversal switch and then used the other multimeter lead to touch the male prongs in the white plug socket on the front of the reversal switch in the Up=R+2, L+4 and Down=R+4, L+3 combinations and none of the 4 combos caused the needle on my multimeter to move.
I think I may need more than just the reversal switch because I noticed that the white plastic guides on either side of the mechanism seem to be disintegrating and probably the striker sensor switch is bad too.
Do you sell the entire unit on your site?
I had in the part converted mine to manual due to a variety of issues. Drilled a couple holes in the sliding plates while I had someone outside the vehicle make sure the lid was flat and level and put in some bolts to hold everything in place. From there, I just removed the lower motor section (what was left of it at least; everything was destroyed by the previous owner).
First things first, Darrell brought up a good point about tripping the switch if the battery was disconnected. I had the same issue when I hooked a battery up recently to my car after it sat for 5+ years.
Know its an old thread...when he says trip the switch...he means back where the motor is just take you finger and press it down to get it to cycle back up or w/e?
I'm glad your testing gave you results. It sounds as if the reversing switch is bad. I have them and the guides in stock on my web site.
Lon Salgren
U guys sell great things btw...I bought the complete wiring harness for my pull down and relay just because I didn't want to use old stuff I didn't trust!
Lon,just left you a message....You can reply here to let me know when I can reach you,or call me @
336-241-2653-jeff(jdracing)
My question is for anyone else who may know?
My sons 92 5.7 z28 doesn't have the latch release in console...Battery was replaced and trunk opened while battery un-hooked....Now trunk will not latch,pull down is in down position....Can't find any release at latch,so not sure how to get it release....It worked fine until hatch opened with battery un-hooked....Trunk wasn't slammed,or anything like that.....Just laid down in closed position on top of latch release....
Thanks for replys,
JD
Originally Posted by lonsal
Call me and I'll explain how to test your reversing switch. I sell both the 86-early 91 style reversing switch and the late 91-92 reversing switch.
Lon,just left you a message....You can reply here to let me know when I can reach you,or call me @
336-241-2653-jeff(jdracing)
My question is for anyone else who may know?
My sons 92 5.7 z28 doesn't have the latch release in console...Battery was replaced and trunk opened while battery un-hooked....Now trunk will not latch,pull down is in down position....Can't find any release at latch,so not sure how to get it release....It worked fine until hatch opened with battery un-hooked....Trunk wasn't slammed,or anything like that.....Just laid down in closed position on top of latch release....
Thanks for replys,
JD
There is a switch beside the catch for the lid try toggling it with a screw driver. The reverse switch at the bottom may also need to be tripped it sounds like it thinks it's up but really it's down. So playing with contact switches should bring it back to life. This is assuming you have already verified the fuse is good.
I can not find a reverse switch everyone talks about....I found the one beside the latch that you press down,but can't find what you call the reverse switch?...are you sure they're in same place on 92?
Thanks for your reply just the same,jd
Originally Posted by Aviator857
There is a switch beside the catch for the lid try toggling it with a screw driver. The reverse switch at the bottom may also need to be tripped it sounds like it thinks it's up but really it's down. So playing with contact switches should bring it back to life. This is assuming you have already verified the fuse is good.
I can not find a reverse switch everyone talks about....I found the one beside the latch that you press down,but can't find what you call the reverse switch?...are you sure they're in same place on 92?
Thanks for your reply just the same,jd
Everyone I've seen has been the same. Can you post a picture? If you follow the wires it should lead you to the switches. The reverse switch should be there it's been years since I last took that part of the car apart.
My issue turned out to be a stripped gear nut. I ordered a replacement from Top Down Solutions but it only lasted 3 weeks. I did some searching and found Dorman 747-000 that included the plastic housing, motor and gear nut for $80 at O'Reilly Auto Parts. My driver side hatch shock was leaking so I went ahead and ordered a new set as I read bad shocks can damage the pull down components. Installed everything this morning and its working like a charm.
I am having a similar issue, I have a 1991 and my trunk is stuck half open half closed and will not open or close all of the way. I replaced the motor and still nothing, not sure what else to try
I am having a similar issue, I have a 1991 and my trunk is stuck half open half closed and will not open or close all of the way. I replaced the motor and still nothing, not sure what else to try
Most likely the problem is caused by the reversing switch. Call or email me and I'll send you a sketch of how to test the reversing switch for continuity using a test light or multimeter.
I am having a similar issue, I have a 1991 and my trunk is stuck half open half closed and will not open or close all of the way. I replaced the motor and still nothing, not sure what else to try
Hey Keenaners! I think the pulldown motor that I have is for your year. I wonder where you are located? Maybe we can arrange something to get it to you? Maybe there is a part on it that you can use to make yours work right. I'm in northern Illinois. I've been tryin to sell the motor on Facebook Marketplace but nobody seems to want it. Here is a link to it:
Ok now I have the same problems as most. Got a working motor but no power to the light or the motor. I checked the 15AMP blade fuse its good. With a test light I cant get anything form the small back lamp or any of the wires that provide power to the pull down switch.
There is toggle switch on the back of the black pull down switch that has 2 connectors to the motor and a multi pin connector to its side. I pushed down to get this part back on with the one phillips head screw. does it nee to be up?
The trunk release button on the dash works however and releases the latch. This is silly. I never had these kids of problems with the hatch motor.
Ok now I have the same problems as most. Got a working motor but no power to the light or the motor. I checked the 15AMP blade fuse its good. With a test light I cant get anything form the small back lamp or any of the wires that provide power to the pull down switch.
There is toggle switch on the back of the black pull down switch that has 2 connectors to the motor and a multi pin connector to its side. I pushed down to get this part back on with the one phillips head screw. does it nee to be up?
The trunk release button on the dash works however and releases the latch. This is silly. I never had these kids of problems with the hatch motor.
You don't tell us what year and model (Camaro or Firebird) you own. For Firebird the fuse for the hatch pull-down is not in the fuse box, but instead is in a single fuse holder that is attached to the outside of the fuse box by a dovetail molded into both. If you don't find it attached to the fuse box, then someone has removed it and you need to find a single fuse holder nearby.
The pull-down unit and the optional hatch release solenoid are powered on separate circuits. Unplug the red/white wire from the blue wire and test it for 12v. If you don't have 12v and can't locate the fuse hokder that powers it,, then you'll need to trace that red/ white wire forward until you find your problem.
Also if you plan to own this car into the future it would be a good idea to buy the factory service manual for it. It has all the wiring schematics and troubleshooting info. Order them at www.helminc.com.
I found an issue with the wiring and the fuse was burned out evidently. Now i have a new issue where it worked once and nothing. Stuck in the down position, Going to pull it apart again tomorrow and start over.
You don't tell us what year and model (Camaro or Firebird) you own. For Firebird the fuse for the hatch pull-down is not in the fuse box, but instead is in a single fuse holder that is attached to the outside of the fuse box by a dovetail molded into both. If you don't find it attached to the fuse box, then someone has removed it and you need to find a single fuse holder nearby.
The pull-down unit and the optional hatch release solenoid are powered on separate circuits. Unplug the red/white wire from the blue wire and test it for 12v. If you don't have 12v and can't locate the fuse hokder that powers it,, then you'll need to trace that red/ white wire forward until you find your problem.
Also if you plan to own this car into the future it would be a good idea to buy the factory service manual for it. It has all the wiring schematics and troubleshooting info. Order them at www.helminc.com.
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
Hi Lon...sorry about that. Its a 1989 Formula 350. The power issue was a short which I found and fixed. Now I have full power to it. But something different is going on. I think I may know what part of it is. I will confirm later tomorrow after work. thanks for the info it helps!
12-09-2015, 11:24 AM
