Just got these in my 89. I got them on ebay. It was about 300 for the set. I ended up being too cheap to buy the brackets, so I just made my own. It can be done, but it took me almost all day. These sliders ended up being an extra 2 or so iches wider than the f body sets. Heads up if anyone was thinking about these ones.

Over all I think the hardest part was getting out the stock seatbelts so I could plug in the racing harnesses. They're 4 point, which is too bad, I understand most drag strips require 5, but they came with the seats, and match.

Comments. Questions. I can send you bracket instructions if you want, or make some for you if you want to pay me.

 

I really like those. They would look really nice in my red firebird(but only after I do a black interior swap). My only question is how did you mount the harness. Im guessing the bottoms you just bolted to either side using the existing holes but how about the shoulder belts?

 

Spoon Sports, eh? Interesting...

 

If you mounted those shoulder straps to the floor, they'll just crush your spine in a wreck & doubtful your car would pass tech & be allowed to run with them like that anyways.

 

The shoulder straps are tied together behind the seat holes, actually, and run to the same anchor points as the sides via a second push button release. I guess my spine is doomed? Are you sure about that? Maybe I'll run em back to the t top bag anchors.

I think I read the tech up here only requires the harness if your car does 12 seconds.

Once I get my horsepower up and am actually ready to race this... I will mount them to the roll cage. If you welded on a mount in the center of your roof you could probably use the stock shoulder anchor point and that one. Or the T top ones, though I'm not sure how strong they are. Or use the back seatbelt brackets and shoulder one. The button will let someone into the back seat regardless.

 

I'm asking a serious question and am NOT trying to be a smart***. How would that crush your spine? Would the seat break lose then the straps would pull tight on you?

 

The seat's adjustment is pretty solid. I dont think that would fail in a crash (causing the seat to lean forward), but I've only got high school physics to back that conjecture up.

 

When you wreck, your body comes up & forward. With the shoulder straps straight down, your body can't shift up any & the spine gets compressed by the inertia of the body.

http://simpsonraceproducts.com

 

I see now. THe seat would fold forward so the straps would pull tight. how would you mount them otherwise?

 

Thanks for clearin that up Stephen!

 

To the roll cage, or at least that's my plan, once I get one in.

 

And don't simply slip the mount brackets under the bolts. They need to pull from the correct angle too.

http://simpsonraceproducts.com/safet...ting-brackets/

 

That's good to know, thanks.

 

I've been using Corbeau Forza seats for several months now (I think something like 5 or 6). I was really lucky because I was able to get both seats, sliders, and mounts for around $140 and the seats were in practically new condition too. The sliders work great but the mounts had to be modified because it was made for a Corvette C3 (narrowed and shortend). Since I'm 6'3" and I have to wear a helmet when I autocross, I also made the mounts sit A LOT lower to the point were the seats are practically bolted to the floor. That wasnt quite enough, so I had to angle the seats back a little as well. They made a big difference in how much my lower body moves around when I autocross, but my torso still moves around a lot. I have 5-pt harnesses that I plan on using, but I don't want to ruin my interior with a roll bar/cage. This is why I'm designing a harness bar (check the Fabrication board). If people are interested, I'll post some pics of my seats. I don't want to hi-jack the guys thread.

Mike

PS - To the OP... What kind of center counsel lid is that? It just looks like a flat piece of plastic. Why the change? I think I kind of like it...

 

Corbeau makes a really nice line of seats.Those seats look great in your car 89.

 

Got any pics of the brackets you had to make?

 

I think they look pretty good I personally would want an all black seat myself. I agree with one of the other gus if you had a black interior it would make the interior so much nicer then the grey.

 

Here are the mounting brackets I had to modify for my Corbeau seats.

 

Here are some pictures to give you an idea how low I had to mount them. I can just barely wedge my fingers under the seat mounts in these spots.



I would have made it lower, but then it would be really difficult to get the rear nuts on to hold the back of the seat down and it wouldn't clear the taller part that can be seen in the side picture (picture #3).

 

Here is the clearance I have when I sit straight up in the drivers seat and I have my helmet on. The helmet is touching the headliner a little.


Here is the clearance I have between my helmet and the headliner when I move my butt forward a little in the seat which causes me to slouch. There is just enough room to slide the tips of my fingers through the gap.


When I sit in the back seat when the front seat is removed, I use up almost the entire area because I'm so tall. My feet make it up the the little vents on the side of the center counsel. No... my legs aren't that pale... it's the flash.

 

Here are some pictures showing the height of the seat mounts form the front and back. In front, I added 3/4" of washers to get the needed angle so I fit (barely) with my helmet on. I do plan on getting a solid spacer machined one of these days.

 

There is also 6" of adjustment in the Corbeau sliders. When I slide the seats all the way back, there is 3" of legroom in the back.

When I slide the seats all the way forward, there is 9" of legroom for people in the back and almost no legroom for people in the front unless you are really short.

 

subscribing, thanks for the detailed pics of the seat frames.
Kory

 

The counsel lid is actually a flat piece of 16 guage sheet steel I cut out, and sprayed. It's the bottom piece for a superstructure I'm working on putting in on top of it. I just haven't had much time. I'm going to have the only thirdgen with a cupholder. (Dont worry - it's going to be retractable). The stock one died before I bought the car, all the plastic was shot. I was going to put the Vinyl back on top, but I think I can make a better one.

No Pics of the brackets I made, at the moment. Essentially, all I did was run sheet metal along the floor to change the location of the car's studs. Once they aligned, I mostly used the stock brackets. Opened up a few holes to fit larger bolts.

You can't really tell from the pic, but I've got a red vinyl headliner, and black plastic which goes with the seats well. Better, if I ever get around to changing the carpet. My back seats are in good shape, though, so it isnt a priority for me now.

Since the pic was taken I got my stock belts all the way out, and anchored the harness behind the rear seats.

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news...But you are, by far, not the first 3rd gen with a cupholder.

Not only have several people done it before, the factory put them (useless, but cupholders none the less) in '91/'92 'birds.

 

Is $300 a good price for these type of seats ? I want to get into some serious racing and the 4th gen seats provide no horizontal support at all.

 

nice seat , would look good in all black.

Sumitracing has some nice seats for a decent price.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

its good to see a racing seat with enough room for tall people.

 

Looks very nice anyway. Haha, i cought you with your camaro repair magazine in the back.

 

I saw a black set of these seats in a Civic at work today. They were the all cloth models but the fabric looked really durable. There was also a lot more padding then what is in my Corbeau seats. Then again, the Corbeau Forza seats I have are more designed for actual racing... note the fixed back. On short trips my seats are just as good as any other, but when I drive for a couple hours, I have to keep adjusting my seating position in order to stay comfy.

What exactly do you mean by "serious racing?" For autocross the Spoon seats would be fine, but for road coarse racing and track days, I would think a fixed back would be better for lateral support and safer in the event of a crash just because you don't have to worry about all kinds of levers and gears and what not breaking. The material your seat is made of also makes a big difference in lateral support. Leather for example, is a much slipprier material then cloth which almost seems to grab you. You can test it yourself by siting in a leather seat and wiggling your butt and sliding your torso across the top of the seat. Then try it in a cloth or suede seat and you will move FAR less.

Keep in mind though that my seats don't have all that much padding and that I had to extensively modify the seat mounts. Now that my little brother has seen the trouble I've had to go through to fit in my car with a helmet on, he is really hoping he will stop growing soon. He's already 6' and he's only going to be a freshmen in high school next year. It isn't looking good for him. lol

 

Hi. I just bought a pair of theses spoon racing seats off of ebay with the harness for my 91 convertible. And I was wondering do the seats rub the door handles or anything or do they fit right in with no problem comsidering there width or height difference to the stock seats?

 

And could I also get a pic or drawing of those seat brackets you had to fabricate?Thanks Dave

 

It is a tight fit against the door handle, but I left a little room on my center counsol side. What I did to fab up the brackets was essentially lay sheet metal on the floor to move the stock bolt locations outward.

The seat backs are higher, so it's harder to check your drivers side blindspot, but other than that they fit fine.

Let me check about getting a pic up of those brackets, I might be able to.

 

Those seats are nice. I'm not sure about the harness that you put into it. I wouldnt trust them thats the reason I went with the stock seatbelt on my mine.








Tony.

 

How hard was it for you to make your coustome seat brackets?

I used the original seat brackets that the original seats came with just choped them out and screw them in place of the new seat sliders.

Tony.

 

O, yes, I have since updated the harnesses.

 

Thats good. I always thought that it would be cool to weld up a bar likewhere the back seat is so you could bolt up the harness too.

Tony.

 

I did both in an afternoon. I guess it depends on your to weld. If you aren't good and have to keep grinding off the welds and redoing them it will obviously take longer. Just make sure you follow the old saying of measure twice and cut once. It will save a lot of time.

You used screws?!? I wouldn't trust screws... grade 8 bolts or don't mess with anything. In the pm you sent me, you asked for some about the steps I took to make them... what exactly are you asking about? I pretty much just winged it and that's how they turned out. I do plan on making new mounts so I can completely get rid of the spacers... the more I look at that the more I don't like it.

 

I used bolts and nuts to attach the higes to the seat brackets.

And about steps I ment did you take off the seats first amd started to measure from stud to stud or something lie that?

Hey the ones you have now would they fit on my hunsaker seats? And if you do we could talk about a price or so?

Thanks. Tony.

 

The only measurements I took were the side to side measurements. Front to back would have been a pain because as you probably already noticed, the floor studs aren't inline with each other front to back. Looking back now, I probably could have used a straight edge to get the front to back measurements but it worked out ok so oh well. The reason those back legs that I bent up look goofy with the radiused corners, bends, and hole location not matching is because I just used the metal I cut off the stock mount. Fortunately that worked for me.

I have no idea if my mount would work for you since I have actually never even heard of that brand of seat before. It really isn't that hard to make your own bracket as long as you have access to a welder and know how to weld. If you can, I say try it yourself. If you do end up failing, you'll only be out ~$10 in metal and the time you spent on it. Even if I did get your measurements I wouldn't want to take on another project. I still have a pretty large pile of parts in my basement waiting to go on my car so I'm already short on time.