Ok. So I had a security system with keyless entry installed... The problem that I have noticed is that sometimes the driver door will unlock and sometimes it wont... the passenger door never unlocks.. The car has factory power door locks and even that doesnt open them all the way.. sometimes if you hit unlock like 4 times you get it to slide over all the way.. just wondeirng if there was some easy fix or if it is probably going to need a new lock assembly. Thanks
Bobby_80s
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- Join DateNov 2006
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- Car1987 Camaro, 1986 Trans AM
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so easy you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner.
take off the door panels.
and spray wd-40 or anyother kind of lubricant on the locking mechanisms. all moving parts.
then on the metal wire that is connected to the manual lock switch the one with the orange sticker for unlock.
wipe it down and clean it then might want to use white lithium grease on any part that rubs agaisnt the door.
before putting everything back together try it out. should work like new.
also another thing that helped is drilling a new ground for the lock relays which is inside the driver kickpanel
the ground gets rusty and weak over time i drilled a fresh hole jsut above the old hole into the metal and that helped aswell.
take off the door panels.
and spray wd-40 or anyother kind of lubricant on the locking mechanisms. all moving parts.
then on the metal wire that is connected to the manual lock switch the one with the orange sticker for unlock.
wipe it down and clean it then might want to use white lithium grease on any part that rubs agaisnt the door.
before putting everything back together try it out. should work like new.
also another thing that helped is drilling a new ground for the lock relays which is inside the driver kickpanel
the ground gets rusty and weak over time i drilled a fresh hole jsut above the old hole into the metal and that helped aswell.
I'll try asap.. thanks for the input.. you're right.. i guess i was expecting something mroe complicated.. ill update and let you know how it works.. thanks again for the input..
JamesC
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While you're poking around inside the door...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...servation.html
JamesC
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...servation.html
JamesC
While Wd40 works, it will attract dirt/moisture. I like to use graphite on mechinisms like this. Also works wonders on lock cylinders.
I know this sounds stupid but how do you take the door panels off.. I took the 3 bolts holding the armrest off and started popping the pins around the edge and all was looking good but it will wouldn't budge.. I was attempting to take the door lock/unlock buttons out and the handle out however I found that most of the bolts are stripped.. Do these need to come out??? Also how do you remove the top piece that has the weatherstripping?? I was looking to replace those as well... Thanks
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some of the bolts are fake and are made of plastic. after the whole black assembly is off the door panel pops off the door and you slide back and lift it off the door.
one thing to look at, the rods on my doors got bent and didn't go through the channels correctly and prevents full motion.
one thing to look at, the rods on my doors got bent and didn't go through the channels correctly and prevents full motion.
Junior Member
sweet post, i have the same problem
Senior Member
Quote:
Yeah this post is crazy helpful. Someone should make a FAQ about thiOriginally Posted by duckman86
sweet post, i have the same problem Junior Member
I just installed a new solenoid this weekend and I had to do some tweaking to get it to lock, unlocking was no problem for it.
Just watch it move when you push the button, mine was kinda pushing out to the side more than pushing straight up. Theres a bracket that is bolted to the door straight above the solenoid, it transfers the motion from up/dwn, to forward/backward. I had to bend the horizontal part (connects to rod going to solenoid) inward toward the door glass.
As for the door panel, depending on your year you will probably have to remove a couple screws by the power locks, then that will let you get at some screws that hold that whole plastic piece on. Theres also 2 longer screws by the inside door panel on mine. I would also suggest picking up some new plastic clips, I get mine from auto zone, only like $3 or so for a box of them. Only problem is they work too good, so I end up breaking them everytime I remove the door panels now. So I try to keep a good stock on hand.
Just watch it move when you push the button, mine was kinda pushing out to the side more than pushing straight up. Theres a bracket that is bolted to the door straight above the solenoid, it transfers the motion from up/dwn, to forward/backward. I had to bend the horizontal part (connects to rod going to solenoid) inward toward the door glass.
As for the door panel, depending on your year you will probably have to remove a couple screws by the power locks, then that will let you get at some screws that hold that whole plastic piece on. Theres also 2 longer screws by the inside door panel on mine. I would also suggest picking up some new plastic clips, I get mine from auto zone, only like $3 or so for a box of them. Only problem is they work too good, so I end up breaking them everytime I remove the door panels now. So I try to keep a good stock on hand.
Senior Member
Since WD-40 attracts dirt, would deep creep be acceptable?
man i'm def gonna do this! my doors unlock fine, but dont/take forever to lock
man i'm def gonna do this! my doors unlock fine, but dont/take forever to lock
Member
Quote:
man i'm def gonna do this! my doors unlock fine, but dont/take forever to lock
As far as I know they are both petroleum formulas. Originally Posted by Convoy25
Since WD-40 attracts dirt, would deep creep be acceptable?man i'm def gonna do this! my doors unlock fine, but dont/take forever to lock
What I use is a aerosol can of white lithium grease.
Senior Member
Quote:
What I use is a aerosol can of white lithium grease.
is there a specific brand name?Originally Posted by DJ Delsym
As far as I know they are both petroleum formulas. What I use is a aerosol can of white lithium grease.
do they have it at autozone?
Member
Nothing specific, any auto/hardware store should carry it.
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RE door panel removal - use the search function on here to find the post of a lin k to a youtube video showing how to do this it was posted earlier this year, wish they had made it a sticky
1st remove all of the switch plates etc (be careful some of the "bolts" are just fake molded plastic heads) and remove the inner door hadle
2nd - it helps to have panel clip removal tools - they are really cheap at HarborFreight stores if you have one near you - if you do not have these then you can use a flat blade screwdriver, I would suggest you wrap it in tape to help aviod scratching paint o n the door frame. Slip tool/screwdriver in between door panel and door frame at one end near top, slide until you run into one of the retaining clips, "pry" outward until clip pops out of retaining hole, slide tool to next one and continue all around the door panel until all are out
3rd - with window rolled down and door open grab the interior door panel palstic top moding at each end, move it bakc and forth from front to back while pulling upward and it should jsut pop off mounting holes, your interior panel is now loose
1 more not- if your door weatherstripping is close to needing replacement do it now since replacing the seals requires removal of the interior door panel
1st remove all of the switch plates etc (be careful some of the "bolts" are just fake molded plastic heads) and remove the inner door hadle
2nd - it helps to have panel clip removal tools - they are really cheap at HarborFreight stores if you have one near you - if you do not have these then you can use a flat blade screwdriver, I would suggest you wrap it in tape to help aviod scratching paint o n the door frame. Slip tool/screwdriver in between door panel and door frame at one end near top, slide until you run into one of the retaining clips, "pry" outward until clip pops out of retaining hole, slide tool to next one and continue all around the door panel until all are out
3rd - with window rolled down and door open grab the interior door panel palstic top moding at each end, move it bakc and forth from front to back while pulling upward and it should jsut pop off mounting holes, your interior panel is now loose
1 more not- if your door weatherstripping is close to needing replacement do it now since replacing the seals requires removal of the interior door panel
Senior Member
just like stated, its just the mechanisms getting stuck. I had this problem about a year ago when I installed my remote start/keyless entry. I just drenched all moving parts including the window tracks with WD-40 and everything has been working fine ever since...



