Power lock help!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Willemstad, Curacao
Car: 1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 355 SBC
Transmission: TH350 with 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: GM 12-bolt with 4.10 gears
Power lock help!
Hi there, I have a small problem with my power locks. The buttons to unlock and lock the doors all work (both sides). But recently the passenger side door stopped locking and unlocking with the buttons. The passenger side buttons still lock and unlock the driver side door but the passenger side isn't locking and unlocking. At first it worked, then it worked sometimes randomly and now it completely stopped working. I know the actuator thingy is good because I actually got it to unlock once today. After that it didn't work anymore... again. Anyone know what the problem might be? And where do all the power lock wires meet each other? Thanks!
Re: Power lock help!
Check in the harness between the door and the body of the car where the door opens to see if there's a broken wire in there. After year of opening and closing the doors they can become frayed.
Re: Power lock help!
Tonys tip on the wiring there is a great idea. That is a high stress area.
Just because you managed to get your door to unlock once doesn't mean the motor is good. I had a power window motor that did the same thing. Once I changed it, it was all good. What I would do is take the door panel off(at this time you'll be able to kind of look in the harness Tony is talking about too) and locate the actuator and it's wires. You can then use a multimeter and while operating the lock and unlock switch, see if there is any voltage on the wires. If you are getting no voltage, make sure your meter is grounding properly by finding a known hot wire to test. If all else fails, get two long wires and run them straight from the battery. If your meter is showing voltage when hooked to those two wires, leave the negative one hooked to the battery and then test your actuator wires. If you have good voltage coming to the motor but, it's not working, then your motor is most likely bad. If not, then you have extensive troubleshooting to do.
Just because you managed to get your door to unlock once doesn't mean the motor is good. I had a power window motor that did the same thing. Once I changed it, it was all good. What I would do is take the door panel off(at this time you'll be able to kind of look in the harness Tony is talking about too) and locate the actuator and it's wires. You can then use a multimeter and while operating the lock and unlock switch, see if there is any voltage on the wires. If you are getting no voltage, make sure your meter is grounding properly by finding a known hot wire to test. If all else fails, get two long wires and run them straight from the battery. If your meter is showing voltage when hooked to those two wires, leave the negative one hooked to the battery and then test your actuator wires. If you have good voltage coming to the motor but, it's not working, then your motor is most likely bad. If not, then you have extensive troubleshooting to do.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Power lock help!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Willemstad, Curacao
Car: 1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 355 SBC
Transmission: TH350 with 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: GM 12-bolt with 4.10 gears
Re: Power lock help!
Thanks every1! I'm gonna check it today.
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 13
From: Troup, Texas
Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: ZZZ# 0607 of 1200 produced
Transmission: Pro-Built 700R4/Vig.2400
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW 9 Bolt PBR Disc
Re: Power lock help!
What I have found is over time, the latch gums up, and even though the power actuator fucntions , it's not moving the rod far enough to lock or unlock the mechanism. Mine started doing this, I would lock the car via remote, but the pass door would remain unlocked. Took the door panel off, cleaned out the latch/actuator, and lubed everything. Worked like a charm. Also after sitting for the last 4 years, it did the same thing again. Once more I cleaned and lubed the parts, works fine. I would suggest trying this since you seem to be getting power and ground to the parts.
Will
Will
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Willemstad, Curacao
Car: 1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 355 SBC
Transmission: TH350 with 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: GM 12-bolt with 4.10 gears
Re: Power lock help!
Since I've had the car the actuator worked but didn't actually open or close the locks. So I took apart the door and WD40'd the sh*t out of the actuators. They worked perfectly after. Till this happened. The actuator in the passenger side isn't doing anything. I think it's something in the wiring or the switch has gone bad. But thanks anyways
Trending Topics
Re: Power lock help!
WD40 is not a good lubricant. It's a very light lubricant and is better at displacing water and protecting from corrosion and penetrating liquid. You may need to lube again.
Last edited by scottmoyer; May 7, 2010 at 09:36 PM.
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: hudson valley, NY
Car: 1987 Z28 with iroc-z Package no.3
Engine: 350TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Re: Power lock help!
I recommend White lithium grease. i found wd 40 would tend to wear off after a couple of seasons. i used white lithium grease and have had no problems three years in a row. Even got that new ''Clunk sound"" back lol
Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: 33483
Car: Purple & Black 1984 Trans Am T-Top
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Power lock help!
What I have found is over time, the latch gums up, and even though the power actuator fucntions , it's not moving the rod far enough to lock or unlock the mechanism. Mine started doing this, I would lock the car via remote, but the pass door would remain unlocked. Took the door panel off, cleaned out the latch/actuator, and lubed everything. Worked like a charm. Also after sitting for the last 4 years, it did the same thing again. Once more I cleaned and lubed the parts, works fine. I would suggest trying this since you seem to be getting power and ground to the parts.
Will
Will
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Willemstad, Curacao
Car: 1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 355 SBC
Transmission: TH350 with 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: GM 12-bolt with 4.10 gears
Re: Power lock help!
Still haven't had time to take a look at the wires. Just swapped a cam into my 355. But I'm pretty sure I must have a broken wire somewhere. I'll post up here as soon as I find my problem. Thanks for all the help!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,942
Likes: 20
From: Boston, MA
Car: 1983 Pontiac Trans Am Daytona 500
Engine: Crossfire 305ci V8
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip/posi
Re: Power lock help!
What I have found is over time, the latch gums up, and even though the power actuator fucntions , it's not moving the rod far enough to lock or unlock the mechanism. Mine started doing this, I would lock the car via remote, but the pass door would remain unlocked. Took the door panel off, cleaned out the latch/actuator, and lubed everything. Worked like a charm. Also after sitting for the last 4 years, it did the same thing again. Once more I cleaned and lubed the parts, works fine. I would suggest trying this since you seem to be getting power and ground to the parts.
Will
Will
that sound likes my problem
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Willemstad, Curacao
Car: 1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 355 SBC
Transmission: TH350 with 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: GM 12-bolt with 4.10 gears
Re: Power lock help!
Ok, so I haven't had much time to post. I was in the U.S. last week to go see some NHRA races. Anyways, I found out my problem was the passenger side lock actuator. I ordered 2 new actuators so I could change them both out while I'm at it. They work fine. The only problem I have is the tiny black piece that connects the metal rod from the actuator to the little mechanism broke on the driver side!
I'll fix it on way or the other though. Atleast I know what the problem was and fixed that. Thanks for all the help!
I'll fix it on way or the other though. Atleast I know what the problem was and fixed that. Thanks for all the help! Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sailtexas186548
Problems / Help / Suggestions / Comments
2
Aug 24, 2015 10:11 PM










