I really cant afford dyanmat and i know there is a ******* "there i fixed it" out there somewhere. What i am looking for is something i can buy at the hardware store for 20 dollars, I know someone has done it. Lets hear your stories and what you used.
I just stripped the interior (most of it) and need to insulate it before the carpet and trim go back. Gonna repaint the plastic black and a few of them red to customize it. Any ideas or pics of cool interiors would be helpful.
http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_1268.jpg
I just stripped the interior (most of it) and need to insulate it before the carpet and trim go back. Gonna repaint the plastic black and a few of them red to customize it. Any ideas or pics of cool interiors would be helpful.
http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_1268.jpg
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Camping pad foam might work.. a dense closed cell.. but Dynamat is in business cause it _works_.
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Spray on insulation works wonders and will look a helluva lot better than closed cell foam. And unless you're building an SPL/SQ car Dynamat is just excessive.
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ThirdGen Camaro Rep
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Lowes sells what your looking for, It comes in a roll 9" x 25' I think. It's a rubber flashing and sticky as hell. I'll see if I can get a picture when I get home.
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Jim85IROC
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It's called "Peel & Seal". I've used the Home Depot version before, and it works very well. The only caution is that the adhesive is not the same as the car-specific products like Dynamat, so you may not want to put it on overhead surfaces (like your roof) because it could fall during hot weather.Originally Posted by 89RESTO
Lowes sells what your looking for, It comes in a roll 9" x 25' I think. It's a rubber flashing and sticky as hell. I'll see if I can get a picture when I get home. I used it in the doors of a camry and it worked very well. I cleaned the surface with brake cleaner, then applied the peel & seal, then hit it with a heat gun until it was very hot, and applied pressure with a roller. This process made it stick very, very well and I never had a problem with it separating.
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gonna agree with Jim; peel and seal is pretty good for flat surfaces and its definitely a cheap alternative that i've used on my floors before. never had anything fall in my previous RS or my GTP when I used a hair dryer (poor man's heat gun) and a small roller.
do not stick overhead!
do not stick overhead!
good info, thanks... i am gonna stop by home depot later tonight and check it out
couldnt find it and they never heard of it,**(EDIT: the peel and stick stuff)** I talked to three guys there. I ended up getting some rubber matting and some carpet padding, hope it doesnt catch on fire, lol The rubber matting was about 20 bucks and gave me enough for the rear end. The carpet padding was 50 but I got enough to do my next project, an 87 supra turbo. Take it easy, it was my sisters car when she passed, the only import I own.
I painted the plastic while I had it out and its looks brand new again, best 5 bucks i have spent yet. After setting them back in, I decided to paint the side wheel well covers red from the crease where the well is up from front to back. I havent got that far yet but I will post pics when I do.
http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_1271.jpg
http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_1272.jpg
I painted the plastic while I had it out and its looks brand new again, best 5 bucks i have spent yet. After setting them back in, I decided to paint the side wheel well covers red from the crease where the well is up from front to back. I havent got that far yet but I will post pics when I do.
http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_1271.jpg
http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_1272.jpg
The Project
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You get what you pay for when it comes to sound deadener. Anything that keeps the old car from rattling is a good thing. Originally Posted by piklez
Spray on insulation works wonders and will look a helluva lot better than closed cell foam. And unless you're building an SPL/SQ car Dynamat is just excessive. 
Even 25% coverage with Dynamat will give you noticeable results.
Rubber matting won't keep the panels from rattling (that's what Dynamat is for). Closed cell foam and carpet padding do the same thing.
For a cheap(er) closed cell foam try 1/4" neoprene. Some car audio guys have used it with very good results.

http://www.closedcellfoams.com/neoprene.html
skinny z
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Here's another alternative. RAAMMAT BXT . An automotive application.
http://www.raamaudio.com/
Another "home construction" product I've seen used is called "Blueskin". A self sdhesive air and vapour membrane that a local customizer uses instead of Dynamat. It's a Home Depot/Lowes product.
http://www.raamaudio.com/
Another "home construction" product I've seen used is called "Blueskin". A self sdhesive air and vapour membrane that a local customizer uses instead of Dynamat. It's a Home Depot/Lowes product.
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second skin
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I just bought some of the "frost king" ducting insulation. Not expensive and came in a very manageable size. I will put it on the inside of my doors tonight and let you know how it worked out. I might use some spray adhesive first to help facilitate a good stick.
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I bought a roll of that shiny bubble wrap insulation at lowes menards home depot etc. i could tell a big difference here is a link of what i am talking about
http://www.lowes.com/pd_13358-56291-...=true$Ntt=foil
http://www.lowes.com/pd_13358-56291-...=true$Ntt=foil
I didnt see that bubble wrap foil or I might have tried that. I am not sure how the carpet matting will pan out but its super thick, 1/2" and 8lb density (whatever that means) Only thing is that it weighs a ton, I dont dragrace though so not a big deal for me.
I got the carpet and insulation in the rear tonight, I used 3m to stick the carpet pad to the carpet and then once it set threw it in there. Had to do a lot of trimming to get the wrinkles out but I'm gonna build a sub box so most of the trunk will be hidden anyways. painted red above the wheel wells and black beneath but ran outta paint.
What do you guys think, to much R*CE?
pic http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_1281.jpg
I got the carpet and insulation in the rear tonight, I used 3m to stick the carpet pad to the carpet and then once it set threw it in there. Had to do a lot of trimming to get the wrinkles out but I'm gonna build a sub box so most of the trunk will be hidden anyways. painted red above the wheel wells and black beneath but ran outta paint.
What do you guys think, to much R*CE?
pic http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_1281.jpg
Member
I just finished installing EZ cool from this website in my car tonight. $80 shipped to my door was enough to do all of the car including the doors.
http://www.lobucrod.com/
There are a lot of good reviews on the site.
This is a link to a guy who put it in his car and ran some thermo tests with good results.
http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/...nsulation.html
http://www.lobucrod.com/
There are a lot of good reviews on the site.
This is a link to a guy who put it in his car and ran some thermo tests with good results.
http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/...nsulation.html
skinny z
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Quote:
Checked out the website. Very interesting product. Originally Posted by *84TA
I just finished installing EZ cool from this website in my car tonight. ] My question is how is it applied?
It doesn't appear to have any adhesive like Dynamat. Complex shapes like wheel tubs (in the hatch area) or footwells look like they might present some installation problems.
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I used 3M general purpose adhesive to apply it. The material formed to the complex curves of the car fairly well. I did have to make a few splices and patches in certain places. Mainly around the rear seats. I used one full piece for each floor board that I ran up onto the drive tunnel. Plus its under the carpet so no one will ever know. I'll try and post pics later today.
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Ok, I did the "Frost King" ducting insulation and wow is it amazing.
I put two layers on the back side of my door skin and one on the inside of the door between the door panel and the metal.


It took one whole roll to do the drivers door, but it was pretty cheap. I used the spray adhesive and then stuck the stuff on. Then, heated it up with a heat gun and rolled the hell out of it. I couldn't be happier.
I put two layers on the back side of my door skin and one on the inside of the door between the door panel and the metal.


It took one whole roll to do the drivers door, but it was pretty cheap. I used the spray adhesive and then stuck the stuff on. Then, heated it up with a heat gun and rolled the hell out of it. I couldn't be happier.
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Here are a few pictures of the EZ cool during the install.






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I just did mine. $40.00 http://www.amazon.com/Elemental-Desi...4385880&sr=8-3.
Not the thickest, but easy to install and definite sound improvement.
Not the thickest, but easy to install and definite sound improvement.
Been running with carpet padding for about 2weeks now and I have to say it works like a charm. Car is quiet as could be. Only downside is that it is hard to form to that car and I had to cut it up an awful lot to get it formed. The 3m in a can worked well but the pad absorbs so much of it that I spent more money on the glue than anything else. all in all, I wish I would have just bought form fitted carpet and a cheap dyno mat alternative. In retrospect, I wouldnt have spent that much more really, maybe 50 buck but it would have been worth it not having 10 extra hours in to it.




