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The glue on the design on the top part of the door panel is coming loose from the fabric. Thinking of getting an upholstry shop to fix it. Question is.....are these panels available after market to replace?
Hey did you ever find anything or replace them?... I really like the 87 Deluxe seats and panels but no-one has the same fabric. I think hawks does but like everywhere else it velour.. would love to keep original look for my 87.
There is this fabric company called sms based in Oregon that have some of the materials that were in the 87 deluxe door panels. They had the kind in my car the medium grey woven fabric and it looks pretty spot on. Although my seats are kinda faded being a t top car with a light tint on them. Theyll send out samples. I received a sample from them lifted my head rest which and checked the color against some of the unfaded material under the head rest. nice fabric and is pretty spot on OEM but theyre pricey.
Does anybody have any pictures of the door panel without the fabric installed? My fabric is still in excellent shape, but I know of some that have separated from the backing board on low mile cars. The fabric is not "dead" like on the headliner. It still has bounce, but the glue has let go. I'd like to see an '87 door panel that doesn't have the fabric attached. I'm assuming that it can be re-glued if the fabric is still in good condition.
Last edited by scottmoyer; 09-29-2013 at 07:08 PM.
Does anybody have any pictures of the door panel without the fabric installed? My fabric is still in excellent shape, but I know of some that have separated from the backing board on low mile cars. The fabric is not "dead" like on the headliner. It still has bounce, but the glue has let go. I'd like to see an '87 door panel that doesn't have the fabric attached. I'm assuming that it can be re-glued if the fabric is still in good condition.
Scott, I have the same year/panels and just did this a few months ago. I was mostly done before I remembered to photograph it but I do have one good shot for you. PM me your email and I'll send it tomorrow.
Just picture the door panel without red cloth,.... the thin layer of padding behind the fabric is what has the pattern in it.
I've used Dupont interior spray adhesive on this exact style door panel. While it held up well for awhile - about 7 months have gone by and they the fabric is starting to get loose again. I don't think the "glue" likes moisture becasue on a humid day the fabric gets loose,... on a hot dry day the fabric is tight.
Disclaimer: I ONLY applied the spray adhesive on the "lines" in the pattern before laying the cloth over it again. I didn't want to saturate the fabric so I was conservative in my application. Wider coverage might have helped the fabric stay tight on the panel a bit longer.
Ok, so help me understand this. The door panel itself is just a heavy grade cardboard that is flat and is basically the same for all 3rd gens. The angled line contour is built into a pad on top of the door panel. Then the colored fabric is added to the pad. Is that correct? When the fabric shows that it's separating, like in the above pic, is the fabric just pulling away from the pad or is the pad also part of the problem? Thanks
The pad itself usually seems to stay stuck to the cardboard, sometimes it might get loose somewhere - but it's not really the problem,... the fabric is.
The fabric and carpet are sewn into the cardboard at the plastic.vynal "trim" that runs down the center horizontaly. The fabric/carpet will NOT seperate from the cardboard backing anywhere you see piping because it's stiched in.
I looked at my panels again today and think that if I had given the pad layer complete coverage with the spray adhesive that the fabric would have looked better - longer. BUT remember; when I say complete coverage I don't mean saturation. If you apply too much spray glue in 1 spot it WILL soak thru the fabric. Maybe spraying the whole upper 12/ of the pad with a light coat of adhesive,.... then one additional quick pass along the pattern "lines" for extra hold there.
So basically, any upholstery shop with the correct adhesives and spray gun for the adhesive can lay it down on the fabric and also on the door panel and re glue it together. I wonder why you see so many failing and not being repaired.
I think I just answered my own question there. Most people aren't as enthusiastic about their Camaros as we are and I didn't even know what to do on the door panel!!!
On a daily driver, I would attempt this myself with professional grade adhesive spray, but since I see it so much on low mile original cars, those owners would probably be best suited using a pro to get it looking correct.
Let us know how that works out Charlie - Both of the ones on my car were replaced under warranty when it was less than 2 years old, will have to re-do the set I have now when I put the car together later this year.
It's on my someday list, but to be completely honest, it doesn't bug me enough to justify pulling the door panels and re-sticking the fabric. I would imagine the 3M Kidnapper Van Spray Adhesive would get the job done. A little care to not apply so much that it soaks thru the cloth would be good. I'd start at the front lower corner and slowly smooth the cloth to the molded foam, pushing it into the pattern reliefs. Something along the lines of a bondo spreader might work well... Someone just needs to be the guinea pig and let us know how it turns out.
As I described back in 2013; I only applied the adhesive to the lines in the pattern and did not apply it to the whole door panel. I applied it just to the foam at first, then laid the fabric out on the foam so the adhesive would show where it needed to be applied to the fabric itself, then added a little more adhesive directly to the fabric.
Like Drew said,... be careful not to use too much adhesive because it can bleed thru.
Can't say how well it held up after years back in service because this set
wasn't put back into use...... I've still got them packed away in my pile of stock panels so they still look they did when I restored them.
I have a 1987 IROC with deluxe medium gray interior but the original door panels were replaced at some point with incorrect aftermarket panels. I would like to restore the interior back to stock but it has been impossible to locate a pair of original gray deluxe door panels. I bought the correct NOS fabric to have my upholstery shop fabricate the door panels but I am in need of an original pair, in any condition, just to provide the "cores" for the underlying foam to produce the pattern.
Alternatively, the upholstery shop can fabricate the new panels but I am in need of the measurements of the diagonal pattern to create a template. Can someone provide the four measurements as I have indicated on the attached photo?
1 - 10-5/8" from the panel edge.
2 - 1-5/8". This measurement is the width, measured perpendicular to the line, not the 45* angle you show.
3 - 1/2". Again, this is the width, measured perpendicular to the line.
4 - 0". The first indent is at 10-5/8" at the top, and is at 0" at the bottom, right into the corner. On my factory panel, the indent does not go all the way to the corner, but stops about 1-1/4" from the corner, from the outside door panel edge, to the first indent.
My 87 had the same problem, and that was in 1995 with 26k miles.. my buddy who had an identical 87 with red interior had the same issue. I always wanted to get re/upholstered in leather because I saw one once and it looked awesome in the 87 style.. the fabric just didn’t seem like it was meant to last glued to that pattern..
i never saw a cloth 87 Interior that didn’t have the door panel issue..
Me too, i'm in the same process of trying to get my door panel in better shape.
Yesterday, I rip off what was still attach of the top material. Today I went to the part store to get a good glue that could make the magic happen.
Permatex spray adhesives are only good if it is bonding fabric to fabric or fabric to foam. It will not bond fabric or foam to a solid, non-porous surface. They will peel when the glue is subjected to enough heat. If anyone is wanting an all around uphostery adhesive that is readily available you can buy DAP contact adhesive from lowes or home depot but the really good stuff is DAP contact adhesive Landau top and trim adhesive--You'll have to order that. If you just want to stick with aerosol adhesives then stay with the 3M line. Loc-tite, gorilla glue and Permatex are a waste of money.
With the reply of TIBO, i will not use my PERMATEX glue and put on hold the repair of my door panels...... until i can put my hand on a can of that 3M stuff.
Following the reply fo TIBO, I got scare and turn myself to a freind. He is a convertible top installator.
I went to his garage tonight and we have re-done my door panels together. He told me that, with his long 30 years of experience, he would prefer use a industrial glue that he use for tops installation. Helmiprene 4510 is a very strog glue that can withstand extreme heat and moisture. It is the glue that is use for convertible top.
After some preps on the panels, he laid down a layer of glue on the foam and the tissue. And Also he put another 2 or 3 layer on stripes and contour.
After 5 minutes drying, we put back the tissue over the foam and with a little plastic tool he had, he passes it over the stripes.
I am very satisfied of the result. Will see if it holds....
Following the reply fo TIBO, I got scare and turn myself to a freind. He is a convertible top installator.
I went to his garage tonight and we have re-done my door panels together. He told me that, with his long 30 years of experience, he would prefer use a industrial glue that he use for tops installation. Helmiprene 4510 is a very strog glue that can withstand extreme heat and moisture. It is the glue that is use for convertible top.
Well, the plastic piece gets attached to the door, not the door panel. The factory used an adhesive to seal the plastic to the door, then the door panel installed over that. I've pulled mine back and broke the tape seal, so that's why I have electrical tape resealing the edge.
The plastic shield I've installed is intended to go right on the cardboard inside the door panel. It leaves full access to work in the door when you need to. You just have to remove the door panel with the shield on it.
It will serve the same purpose of the one inside the door... Protect the cardboard from water. And in a even better way, with a full coverage.
As the plastic inside my doors, were all badly torn by the other people that work on my car prior to me, I went for this one.
Not really. If you look at the factory liners, you'll notice the bottom edge is sealed in a few
V patterns with the points tucked inside the door. This is so any moisture that gets inside the door will run to the bottom, and drain out the door to the outside. By having the plastic on the door panel, any moisture on the plastic is going to run down between the door and the liner.
"You'll rust your door out, kid. Ho-Ho-Ho" - Christmas Story Santa
However, if you don't plan on driving in the rain and this is just an enjoyment vehicle, then leaving it as is wouldn't hurt. It's up to you what you want or need from this car.
I peeled the cloth back from the top rear corner to about the door handle hole. Then masked off the carpet and any exposed surfaces I didn't want overspray on. I made up a cardboard spacer to keep the cloth away from the foam backing, and slipped it approx above the middle hole under the armrest. With the 3M Trim Adhesive set to the narrow setting, I sprayed the inside of the cloth, and the foam backing completely with two coats of adhesive each. Next I moved the door panel to a nice flat surface, and starting from the bottom of the cloth as far forward as possible, I smoothed the cloth down evenly, sweeping it into the pattern with a 4" Bondo spreader. When I got closer to my spacer, I pulled it out and smoothed the cloth over that area, and continued working back to the top rear corner. I still need to go back with the hot-glue gun and stick down the flap that wraps around the rear edge of the card.
Overall, it was a lot simpler and faster than I ever expected it to be. It took longer to make a pattern of some used vapor barriers, and cut new ones from 6 mil plastic sheet. Getting closer to putting the door back together, then I can get started on the other side.
Nice work! I need to do mine and your work is inspirational. I'd really like to replace the upholstery though while I'm at it which would make the job a little bigger.
If I were replacing the upholstery, I think I'd start from scratch with a new door card blank. Cut to match a pattern, have the upholstery shop stitch in new carpet and the vinyl piping/accents, etc. Hardest part would be getting the stripes right. Probably could replicate the factory look by applying a foam, and excavating the stripe lines.
I just think I'd want a fresh slab of cardboard that hasn't ever been wet, hasn't had the trim holes all ripped out, etc. I got a bit lucky on this one, aside from the dip$4!7 who left out the vapor barrier, and got the back side damp, the overall panel was in good shape, just sagged.
If I were replacing the upholstery, I think I'd start from scratch with a new door card blank.
I just think I'd want a fresh slab of cardboard that hasn't ever been wet... got the back side damp, the overall panel was in good shape, just sagged.
I switched to corrugated plastic. Impervious to water and UV. Doesn't warp. Slightly thicker, lighter and just as strong. You can still sew to it with a professional upholstery sewing machine but wrapping the material around it and using contact cement is just as good. My "old" door panels (1 year old) survived the Arizona summer (120° summers will melt many upholstery adhesives) and I thought I would test the bond. I had to get pliers and I ended up bending and crumpling the plastic and the bond still wouldn't give.
Fun! I used coro-plast in place of the worn out cardboard plate in the Firebird map pouch going in my project bird. It worked well for that, I'm sure it'd make a decent door card. A sheet of Masonite would work if a person isn't doing any stitching through the board. I'm a bit of a traditionalist, so I've got a couple door card blanks in the attic from a previous project that never came to fruition.
I'm not much of a seamstress so I'd probably consult with an upholstery professional and see what they'd prefer to work with. Currently I think I'm in the clear, once I re-glue the passenger's side door panel, all I should have left is to clean the passenger's side door panel for the project bird, and I'll be done with door panels for awhile.
I had to do the top edge repair, similar to what's shown further up the thread, on the driver's side door panel for the Firebird. Door panel was nice aside from some fool ripping the top trim strip through the door card. Cut away a strip above the holes nearly all the way across, and glued in a strip of Masonite. Then followed up with some light glass cloth and resin to give it some strength. Also wicked a bit of resin into the retaining clip holes, and over the stitching through the panel to bond the old cardboard back together. Turned out decent, and was a lot easier than tracking down the correct cloth. Now I just need to decide how to plug the window crank holes.... It's always something.
11-22-2010, 05:21 PM
from me. Thanks Scott for taking the time to measure. Can't wait to re-do mine. 
