So what should my process of elimination be for repairing my hatch pull down? it hasn't since i got the car but now thats its painted and all pretty i don't wanna look like a jack a** slamming my hatch to close it. Any one got a step by step for determining whether i need to replace the whole thing or not?

 

Best thing to tell you is to check the wiring to it and see if it gets juice when the switch is hit. If it doesn't, then look into the switch and relay and wiring. If it does, then you have a motor issue. No good way to describe how the motor works, it's bets to just remove the entire assembly from the car and look it over carefully to see the issues - might need a new gear, a new housing, might just be binded up and needs some TLC.

NEVER EVER for anyreason ever slam the hatch. If you ever get the motor running again, then 1) never let anyone else ever close your hatch, 2) always use the release button and never the key, and 3) always pull the hatch down to just rest on the mechanism, then gently push it to swtart the motor, never slam or let it hit on it's own weight.

 

yeah im not a tard no offence i had three 3rd gens but when its no longer functioning not much i can do i loosened the bolts and slide it up so its a bit easier to shut but yeah anyone got pics of wires to be testing? and relay locations for the motor?

 

Ok so today i went and started checking out the pull down motor. I had power on the blue wire guess my constant but the whit wires are the relay had nothing i am guessing thats not correct so any ideas from here? i put in a new relay and that didn't do the trick

 

Have you cleaned the contact area..? I had the same problem, and my contacts were not making good contact. Then I had to change the gear (it was stripped). I found one on ebay for $7, changed it out and it worked great. Also, HAWKS has all the rebuild kits you need to rebuild it if you need... Stone

 

Yes it is very important to clean the contact pad and pins that are located to the left of the pull-down unit. They power the HMSL (high mount stop light). You wouldn't want someone to rear end your car and damage the pull-down unit.

The white wire with a small black connector was used on 90-91 F-Bodies to provide a switched ground to turn on and off the rear hatch light.

As a start read the Tech article on repairing the 86-97 & 88-91 hatch pull-down units I wrote that is posted on TGO under General Repairs. Post back here what you find and I'll try to help solve your problem.

Also do a search on my user name. I'm sure I've posted the answer to solve your problem at least a dozen times already.

Lon

 

are you talking about the contacts for the clip plugging into the motor? the relay connector is very clean as for that clip i am not sure but also not sure how i would clean it thats a pretty small plastic connector lol

 

wanna explain the no key thing?

 

still havent figured out why my hatch pull down doesn't work any one wanna explain step by step how to test for power and what to test

 

I posted in another hatch thread, you might have read already, but ...

There are at least 2 different types of motor assemblies. I've never operated the second type, but I have a few around I keep for parts (gears and some internals are the same).

But with my assembly, using the key releases the hatch loop from the mechanism BEFORE the motor comes up. It makes a terrible loud forceful pop, since there's so much pressure on the hatch itself from the motor having had it 'pulled down' against the weatherstripping. Then, after the hatch is released, the motor starts to come up to it's 'ready-to-close' position. It seems to me that this is very stressful on the assembly - thus I don't use the key. I always use the release button, or my key fob (I have keyless entry wired in that will release hatch and unlock doors).

The other type unit might not function like this, but mine sure as heck does, and so I always just reccommend not to use the key, as I surely don't use it on mine. Heck, my hatch release assembly gets handled more gently than my wife! Because I've had them apart so many times, and seen how they operate, and the little plastic switches, tiny springs, etc. they just look very fragile to me, and I want mine to last, so I really baby it alot!

 

Yes it functions a bit differently. Pressing the switch or tunring the key in the lock cylinder starts the motor up cycle. However the hatch will not release until it has reached nearly teh end of the up cycle. There is a lever on the back side of the latch that makes contact with a plactic block attached to the back of the frame. At this point the lever rotates and the latch releases the hatch hook. There is a coil spring that forefully ejects the hatch hook from the latch at this point.

FYI, the only parts that interchange between these two styles of pull-down unit are the gearnut, bearing and wave washer.

Lon

 

wow my thread was hijacked and taken off topic again i need help trouble shooting and repairing my pull down i don't need advice on what to do when it is working again but how to get it working again not sure how to determine if its a switch or the motor or what any help with this problem and getting my topic back on track

 

Just fix it to where you can slam it, the motor will always go out.

 

If I were to take an educated guess, not having the pull-down here to test it, I'd say it is either the reversing switch or striker-sensing switch. I can fax or e-mail a sketch on how to test the reversing switch. Or you can call me and I'll walk you through it. For the striker-sensing switch, use a multi-meter or test light to check that the white wire switches ground on/off when you press the switch. The striker-sensing switch starts the up or down cycle. The reversing switch completes the cycle shutting off the motor.

You should first determine IF the motor is good or not. You'll need to disassemble the pull-down unit and remove teh reversing switch to access the terminals on the motor to test it with +/-12v. Follow the Tech Atricle I wrote that is on TGO to know how to properly disassemble the pull-down unit to test the motor.

https://www.thirdgen.org/tech/hatchpulldown.pdf

Or you could do an advanced SEARCH on my username and "hatch motor" as the topic and see the 250 times I've answered the question on how to test and repair them. (not kidding)

Lon

 

thnx i searched and saw a lot of topics on it most were just tpoics on replacing them couldnt find any that told em what to test but this helps i will be testing the stricker swtich first i guess thats the "button" on the actual hatch correct? that touches the metal part that is on the interior plastic when the hatch is closed just push it with my test light on the white wires of the relay?

 

Three main problem areas:
1) motor
2) Gear
3) nyon slides
You have to take the panels off to see what the problem is. It is not rocket science repairing the hatch pull down.

 

Mods help me out here sick of idiots that can't read attacking my intelligence. Dude reread my post i said i needed help figuring out whether my problem was switch related or motor related as in not sure which wire i should be testing. Getting sick of the internet muscle on my and other people's post. The comment about it not being rocket science is what has set me off at this point. If your not going to be help don't post on the forums. Not to mention the you have to take the panel off comment NO **** I already stated that i had my entire interior out of the vehicle because i was doing some other work on it. Some peoples replies are getting a little ridiculous.

 

The striker sensing switch is attached to the latch assy of the pull-down unit. On the left side of the switch is a single hex-head screw that attaches the switch to the latch. There are 3 wires coming out of the switch, orange, black and white. The actual switch lever you'll need to press is a small black paddle on the right side of the switch in line with where the hatch hook would latch.

If the wiring is correct, voltage supplied to the blue wire and ground wire connected, the motor is verified good and the reversing switch is good, then pressing on the striker sensing switch will start the down cycle. Hold the switch down and the motor should power down. The motor will only power down while that switch is being pressed. If the cycle is interrupted mid-cycle the motor will not power on again until that switch is pressed and held down. Once the motor has powered all the way down it will trip the reversing switch with an audible CLICK. At this point if you release the striker-sensing switch the motor should power up until it reaches the end of the up cycle. Again there will be an audible CLICK of the reversing switch tripping to end the up cycle.

If it doesn't perform as indicated, disassemble using the Tech Article. Then test the motor. If the motor is good call me and I'll give you instructions on how to test the reversing switch.

Lon

 

so motor tested good on to the next test