OK, I purchased two over head consoles from Ebay. One was for a T-Top car and had everything (but nothing actually worked). The other was for a hard top but didnt have anything (my car is a HT). I transfered the map light after fixing it and then started on the flashlight and its original light bulb could be saved. I took apart a Craftsman LED flashlight and used it instead and it works perfectly. It still uses almost all the original pieces including the on/off switch.

at one point in time i offered a flash light conversion to member of my other forum. i got no interest so i never pushed it. i took a 15000MCD white LED and soldered it to the correct power points then bent the led leads to fit in the bulb opening of the flash light. still worked the last time i used it.

I found a direct LED replacement for the 222 bulb a while back. No mods required for installation. But the light beam sucked. I went back to the old tungsten filament.

Soldering in an LED in place of the bulb will need a resistor to limit the current being drawn by the LED. Without this resistor, the batteries will cook themselves.

Never had an issue. Work flawlessly for years. The LED's i used were 3v and the difference in amperage between the LED's tolerance and 2 AAA batteries is negligible - no resistor needed as 1.5v and 1.5v in series is 3v.

Voltage isn't an issue. Current is.

You have no arguments from me about that, however as I have pointed out I have one that has been done and is still working many years later with the same battery's. Perhaps it is because I use it to search my engine bay for the problem taking at most 10 minutes and not lead a search party for 12 hours. Even if I pop the battery's or the LED, the cost to replace either is negligible. Thus far I've not had to and don't expect I will any time soon.

85Z28NOS - Sorry to jack your thread with this argument. This will be the last post from me on this.