ryn28

iTrader: (1)

The Problem:

1982-1992 Camaro ac/heater controls are lit insufficiently. At night, only the right half of the controls light up brightly and the light fades to nothing as you progress to the left side of the controls. The reason this happens is Chevrolet only used one bulb to light the controls and it’s mounted all the way on the back left hand side of the unit.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014541163/
The Solution:

Add another bulb to the other side of the controls so the controls will be completely lit like they should have been from the factory.

What You’ll Need:

A Piece Of ½” PVC Pipe
Your Choice Of Tool To Cut PVC Pipe
One 194 Bulb Socket (I got mine on eBay from motoringmax, 2 for $4.50)
Dremel Tool
A Flat File or Sand Paper
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
Drill
1/16” Drill Bit
JB Quick Weld or Other Suitable Strong Glue/Epoxy
Soldering Iron & Solder
Electrical Tape
Any Other Tools Required For Removal of AC/Heater Controls

Let’s Get Started:

1. Take your ½” PVC pipe and cut off a piece about ¾” long. Try and make the cut as
straight as possible so you won’t have to sand as much later to flatten out the ends.

2. Take the piece you just cut and file/sand flat two opposite sides of the pipe. It doesn’t
need to be perfectly flat all the way end to end, but should be relatively flat on both
sides top and bottom on at least one of the ends.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868433234/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868433358/
3. Take the PVC piece after sanding and test fit it into location on the ac/heater controls.
It should fit between the upper lip while resting on the lower ledge where the arrow is
pointing. It should also be flush against the back of the controls. If either is not then
sand some more in the areas needed and test fit again.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014541277/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014541903/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014542009/
4. Once you are happy with the PVC pipe “socket” it’s time to move on to modifying the
ac/heater controls so the light will pass through. Take a Dremel or similar tool and
start sanding down the plastic right next to the fan speed switch. There is a notch right
above where you want to sand which also makes a good guide for location. Stop and
check frequently as you’re sanding.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868433894/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868434032/
5. Keep sanding until you start breaking through the plastic and start seeing the metal
reflector that is behind the plastic.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014542559/
6. Now take a sharp knife or whatever you have that will work best and cut away the
remaining plastic. It’s not critical to remove all the plastic so don’t worry if
it’s not looking clean. All we really need is an opening near the top area somewhat
centered under the notch that’s in the plastic. This was partly finished. You will see
in a later photo showing the holes how it looks completed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868434396/

ryn28

iTrader: (1)

7. Pull off the fan speed **** and slide the selector to defrost, temp to hot, and then being very careful, gently pry up the little tab on
the bottom of the controls that secures the lens in place just enough so you can free the
lens from the tab. Make sure you pull off the fan speed **** first and slide over those levers!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868434500/
8. With the bottom of the lens free you should be able to gently wiggle the lens out of the
top tab that is holding it in above the fan icon. This will allow you to be able to pry the
faceplate back enough for the next step. Don’t pry it too much as you don’t want it to
crack.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014543017/
9. Drilling the hole(s) in the reflector. You want to keep the faceplate pried out while
holding the metal reflector tightly back against the controls. I wedged my finger in
between the two and used it to also press the reflector back against the controls.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868434700/
While holding everything in this position, take your 1/16” drill bit and drill a hole(s)
through the reflector making sure NOT to go into the lens on the other side. This is
the reason for keeping the lens pulled out away from the reflector. Drill slowly with
a sharp drill bit and you shouldn’t have any problems.

Make sure NOT to drill a hole that will line up behind where any of the
clear images are on the front faceplate. If you do you will get a pinpoint light
bleed. If by any chance this does happen you can cover the hole with electrical
tape and drill a new hole. Where I have drilled the holes works well with no
issues so you can use those as an idea of placement.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7019131431/
I recommend drilling the hole on the left first and then testing by placing the PVC
socket in place, placing a bulb in your 194 harness, plugging the socket harness into
the PVC socket and lighting it with a 9V battery. Wrap the PVC socket with black
electrical tape to help keep the light contained in the socket.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868434882/
Light it in a dark room and take a look. If you want a little more light drill a second
hole. It’s better to have two small holes instead of one large one. This will leave more
surface area of the reflector in tact. I drilled the second hole after doing my own
testing and found it gave the desired effect I was looking for.

10. Once you are satisfied with your new lighting, carefully put the lens back in place,
put the fan speed **** back on, and it’s time to make the socket permanent. Take
the JB Quick or other suitable epoxy and apply some to the ledge if the controls.
Also apply a small bead to the left edge of the PVC socket and press into place. I also
added a little more around the edge as the bead squeezed out to fill any gaps.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868435012/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014543527/
11. Once the epoxy/glue has completely dried you will see a small gap on top of the
socket. I used some foam weather strip stuffed in to seal the gap. You could also
use a piece of electrical tape, anything to close the gap and keep the light contained.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014543647/
12. Looking into the socket it will look something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868435314/
Even though the second hole looks blocked it really is not. The light passes between
the socket and back of the control unit as there is a slight gap because of the notch
we ground out. The second hole helped achieve the extra lighting I was looking for.

ryn28

iTrader: (1)

13. Now your controls are finished and should look like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014543847/
14. Take the ac/heater controls out to the car but set them aside for the moment, it’s
time to wire the bulb socket to the car. Strip the insulation from the wires going to
the original bulb socket. Strip the wires in an area that will leave enough slack for
both sockets to reach their locations without pulling against the other. After stripping
a small area on each wire, spread the wires in the center and pass the wires from the
new socket through the middle, twist them around each other, and solder in place.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014543949/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014544101/
15. If you feel the socket is a little loose you can always add extra security by taping
it in place, using some removable type adhesive, etc. I didn’t really need the tape
but for extra peace of mind I added it while I had it apart.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6873284762/
16. Here are the final results. These were taken with my iPhone and really don’t do it
justice. The light is much better and more even then it appears in the photos.

BEFORE:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868435776/
AFTER WITH TWO REGULAR 194 BULBS (too yellow but there’s a solution):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868435842/
The ac/heater controls have a blue filter where the original light comes in, giving a more
natural light color. Since we don’t have that filter on our new setup I found these blue
glass bulbs to simulate the color and it matches perfectly. These are not painted blue
bulbs but actually blue glass so the color will never fade:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/6868436092/
BLUE OPTICS BULB IN NEW SOCKET, REGULAR 194 BULB IN THE OTHER:
(This is how I am using it and the picture doesn’t do it justice)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014544349/
And lastly, for the LED fans:
LED COOL WHITE IN THE NEW SOCKET, REGULAR 194 IN THE OTHER:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78287657@N02/7014544317/

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Or you could just buy a Bird unit and swap over the faceplates... There's 3 bulbs in that one . Provided that they all work and/or are replaced easily.

jwdomino

iTrader: (12)

Nice write up! Mine is also very dim and have considered options to brighten it up

Which "bird" one are you referring to? I have a "bird" & mine is like the one above

ryn28

iTrader: (1)

When I started this I didn't know about the Firebird's setup as I don't have one and when I did see one it had two bulbs like my modified setup. Regardless, on two units (my original and an extra) I couldn't pull the ***** off the sliders to completely remove the faceplates without feeling like I was going to break it which is why I did it the way I described. Why should I buy a used set of controls when mine function fine and are in good physical condition? I can change the "new" bulb as easy as the original.

Thanks. It works really well so I'm happy with it. I've seen people try to brighten it up with the LED bulb replacements and I tried that but it only partly helps and the "good" side is still much brighter. On the 87+ models the words Lo, Hi, Cold, and Hot also light up. Mine's an 86 and they are just printed on. I guess this was more of GM's finest work of the 80's

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Not sure about the early 82-85 cars, but I'm pretty sure that the later Birds have the 3 bulb controls. My 87 does.

Don't know how the ***** on the controls could be so stuck... Mine are constantly falling off, and most others I've seen aren't that hard to remove.

Reason to replace the whole thing is because you've just cut up a perfectly good faceplate assembly for a bit of extra light. For the cost of the light socket, the PVC pipe, and the rest, you probably could have bought a complete control head at a junkyard or through the Classifieds, and get better lighting on the bottom half of the control head (where it seems there is almost no light even with your modified controls, in your pics).

ryn28

iTrader: (1)

I don't know but I have two units where both ***** are on with no signs of coming off.

I didn't cut up the faceplate, only the rear part of the control unit in one small area which can't be seen when installed, the faceplate is untouched. If you look online you'll find the controls going for far more then a small piece of 1/2" PVC (I think it was $0.68 a foot) and the bulb sockets. The rest of the stuff most people already have.

The bottom doesn't light because as I said, it can't, my controls are printed where it says cold & hot, there is nothing to light.

Who cares about cutting it anyway, unless you're going for 100% pure stock I don't think it matters. It seems you're modding/changing your car pretty extensively so based on your way of thinking you've ruined the whole car.

That's the last I'm commenting about why it's not what you or anyone else might like. If someone has any questions of course I'll answer those. If you don't like it, don't do it. I'm happy with it because it was inexpensive and it WORKS. It actually lights up now like it should have all along.

Hal87

iTrader: (1)

Impresssive piece of work! Looks like a lot of thought and effort went into this. Thanks for sharing !!!

prplroc92

iTrader: (2)

This is very helpful thanks for the info. Its nice to see others thinking about these things to. Weather people follow try to fix the shitty factory illumination your way or another at least you posted a game plan. thanks.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I didn't see this before. Pretty cool mod.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Old post, but the FB/camaro Hvac part's don't interchange, unless you swap the whole faceplate.Tried w/ both early & later styles.So I modified mine similarly to those.Some of the pics are gone, but here's my post.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/auto...-lighting.html

prplroc92

iTrader: (2)

The climate control from a firebird is very different. If you have ever tried what you suggest you would find it easier to molest the camaro one.