luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Been doing work on upper console...



I have the 2 led display sets and instead of filling up the middle with tons of buttons I would never use, I took some inspiration from Mark('s Kustom Kits). He use to have an option with digital numbers for engine sensor read outs, but he placed them between his monitor and power board... I custom designed (CAD) and had that shiny aluminum piece cut out and am using 6 Cyberdyne gauges for that...

Here are them wired together... (all soldered, but joints not covered yet)



Here is a lit picture, I painted the panel black and insulated the back (from electricity)... tricky to do a good picture cuz the leds are so bright.. top is an air fuel ratio bar graph, boost, oil pressure, volts, fuel, coolant temp...



Just got my ABS Headliner in the mail, Rock Auto (with discount) $93 not including shipping!

No boost yet, but a man's gotta have goals I got a BBS turbo header for future use

More pics once it's all together and painted...

Rafael

FishinCricket

iTrader: (1)

Retro.. Love it!!

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Mechanically, my car is pretty good, so been using time off during the holidaze to work on wiring...
I had a custom CNC aluminum plate made then powdercoated to house my center console buttons...I had rewired it up for lights today, previously using 16 gauge primary wire, but it was thick and hard to bend... So being the lights only use up about 4 amps, I used 18 gauge speaker wire (it's inside and being it has more strands and electricity is carried on the outside of it, it works out good)...

Here is a non lit pic...



Top left Red Button is Ignition On / Off... Once pressed, ALL the lights, including the keypad turn on...
After entering the right code, you can use the Top Right button to start the engine...
2 White rockers are for Windows...
And the 10 red / green for lights, trunk, etc...
Here is a lit picture, kinda washed out, but bright and beautiful in person...
More pics as I get more work done....

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Terminal Blocks...
I got these 2 sizes from Ebay...
The white one can handle 40 amps (11 Inputs) and the blue 30 amps (6 inputs)...


I used the white for 12v + (can be used for grounds too), I have 8 Gauge 12v+ running to one of the inputs, then you I will run various things to it... Brennon's 55 Watt Halogen scanner 15 amps on startup, Car PC 6 amps, Dash, upper and lower consoles, stereo, etc...
The blue I am using for an ignition on 12v+. It's also wired to the white terminal block, but with the relay, so when it's grounded, then the blue gets 12v+... I have various things that also need an ignition on power, so I will plug those items into it...



This is the right side of the dashboard, just before AC vent....

More wiring work... it's kinda rainy here in Tampa Bay FL...

Rafael

TKR Performance

iTrader: (1)

Very nice work! My 1985 has the nose, scanner, and the voicebox on the inside. I couldn't resist the voicebox and talking gag. The car is a big hit everywhere I go. Keep the pictures coming, I might just decide to do the full interior.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I sell a DVD with all the phrases & FX, 4,841 of them...
Here is a demo of an acquaintance of mine... I have a sweet car PC hooking up in the next few months, i5 Processor, 8GB Ram, 256gb Solid State Drive, it will have the voice recognition... this video is from like 2008 or 2009... He used the DVD is sell with is car PC...

Video


More details on the DVD here...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291315745034...84.m1555.l2649

Rafael

TKR Performance

iTrader: (1)

I think I bought my DVD from you actually. I'm definitely interested in the PC and voice recognition. Right now I use my phone and Bluetooth.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

The phone / bluetooth options is great & inexpensive...
My car is mechanically set (been doing suspension / drivetrain / bolt ons) for years now... interior is done, but out, I have TONS of wiring to do for KR stuff, PC, Stereo, Consoles, etc... and in the mean time, save up for paint... goal is Dec 2015 or sooner

The front scanner has a remote and SFX... People get big smiles when it "turns on by itself"

Rafael

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

More toys...
What is this?
A low voltage relay (4 actually, all on one board)...
A Red LED outdoor light (3 1watt LED's) I got off ebay for $10...



My car is a factory stick shift car, so it has a shift light (well, it did, it use to be on the dash).
I have an EBL P4 Flash, so I can tune the ECM and change the shift light to what ever RPM I want...
The output from the ECM is 260mA.... So I'll run it to the low voltage trigger (and I have a few other things I'm hooking up from the Viper Alarm too)...

My 91 Formula has the power bulge hood... Originally it came with a block off plate... I purchased an actual screen from an 82-84 TA and had it chromed... So when all done, the RED Led light will shine out from the hind the chrome mesh (and black hood / car of course )

Hopefully it's not rainy tomorrow, I can only do so much in the garage without pulling the car outside...

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Looking good. I need to see what files I have on a Thumb drive we got with out KITT at work. Might have to get a dvd from ya.

Still waiting for Jay to get back to us on WHAT electronics he sent up. ( Just Dash stuff) Still missing center console buttons , over head stuff and the side steering wheel pod stuff.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

More work on the lower console... (Red / White / Green / Red buttons & keypad)
It's 3/4th wired up!
Previously I did all the wiring to just light it...
Today, I ran a parallel circuit to ground all the buttons when pressed / on...
The only wires needed now are the wires for the actual things, parking lights, fog lights, headlights, etc..

I put a terminal on the bottom corner, which I used to connect to all the buttons...

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Windows....
The GM Buttons for the Window up/down are like mini relays. They can connect a bit of power, but seems like not enough, since everyone always complains about how slow they are, even with new motors...
Your KR button will probably fry if you try to wire it up to the wires the buttons uses...
You need to use relays... 2 per window, 4 total...

Relays:


I bought a pack of 10 prewired relays & harnesses from Amazon for $21. They even interconnect! These have good strong connections to the relay and 16 gauge wire out... Now I used a small screw driver and took out and rearranged the wires (to put the colors where I wanted, to help me remember / understand). the other thing I did, I cut the Yellow wire, and connected it to the Red wire, so that 1 side of the relay is energized, and when I ground the button (up or down) it energizes and the window opens or closes...

Diagram:


Diagram modified from one posted by 92RS_Ttop on Thirdgen.org, he was using 12v+ for the switches, I rearranged the wires so it's grounded instead...

This should also speed up your windows since the relay can allow more power to transfer vs the GM factory switch...

scooter

iTrader: (11)

That's awesome! I have thought about how to do that, but never figured it out. I will plan on doing this once I tear into the car.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Should be able to "snip" the red 12v+ wire and hook it up to your existing wiring at the switches. There is a guy selling nice finished harnesses, with relays etc... Look in Classifieds, For Sale, Interior a bit down the page...
Or make your own, like I did... I have a DEI window up / down module, so it does the one touch up / down feature...

Rafael

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I would just do my own, and probably use something bigger than 16 gauge wire, lol. I will figure out how to do it without cutting any of the stock harness too. I have the other cars harness I can cut up to make plug and play adapters to the switches since that car had a fire and I pirate stuff off it all the time

I am going to put some Corvette heated mirrors in the doors, so this will be a project I can do at the same time.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I think (from what I've read) the 16g wire is enough, but the relay allows more amps to go through it than the switch, thus it works faster....

Here is the classifieds link with more info...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...relay-kit.html

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I went and found it, thanks. Even though the relay is better than the switch, I would also like to get a heavier gauge wire into the door, so the voltage drop is lessened. The 4th gens used heavier wire all the way to the doors compared to our cars. I would think the relays in conjunction with, maybe, 14 gauge feed wire to the motor with the relays right there, it will also make the motor work better. I have a spool of 14 that I got for another project, so its not a big deal for me, but I couldn't get the wiring in my head. My motors were dead when I bought the car and the new ones I put in made everything so much faster than I was used to, but this combo should put them on par with a newer car

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

It's very close, at 30 amps between 5 and 7 feet is 16 to 14 gauge...
I have new motors just put in, and tons of other wiring things to do, I'll stick with the 14 and relays... It will be faster than stock at least

petrolhead

Do you have a thread on the pc? I'm not doing a replica as such, but my own version with some knight inspiration. I'd like to know what all your using it for, touch screens? Car stereo? What else does it control?

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Car PC, Info, Specs, Pics, etc...

http://www.knightfoundation.net/F0ru...hp?f=1&t=17202

Rafael

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Here is a very basic break down of the factory window switches and wires....


Pic originally from Jagu07 on www.thirdgen.org

Basically, the black is ground, the Pink (red) is positive...
Then the Blue's on each switch are up and the brown's are down...

With the previous relay diagram and this, you should be set...

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I know I'm in the "interiors" section... and went from custom console pieces to wiring... now I'm switching to fiberglass door pods for speakers, but they will look great on the new custom door panels when done Just bear with me...

I have a 3 way component system for the front, 4 and tweeter in the dash... I didn't want to place the 6.5 mid bass in the kick panel, so I'm making plywood / fiberglass door pods...



I wanted to keep the "lines" of the factory door...
But the pod cannot go back to the original point, cuz it will heat the seat belt on the bottom...





I posted these in another post to show someone else...
Speaker will be angled up and over a bit... then fiberglass it...
The top part 3 pieces, 1 to hold the speaker, 2nd to give it depth, the 3rd (top piece) will be covered with grill cloth...

I will cut a hole in the bottom and door panel to sink it in as much as possible... the window motor is there...

More pics as work gets done... I got a lot of irons in the fire...

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Pimpin & Crimpin Sunday!

I needed some Molex connectors... so you can easily connect / disconnect stuff...
Went to Radio Shack... Would of been about $30 in connectors... they had a "Buy 10 Parts, get 50% off" and I signed up for something and got and additional $5 off, walked out with 10 Molex plugs for less than $12! (4 12 pin, 2 9 pin, 2 6 pin, 2 2pin)....

Lower Center console done!
14 buttons, each has 4 terminals (2 for + and - for light) and 2 for what ever function they will do...
The 2 Window switches have 5 terminals, 2 for lights, 1 ground, 1 up & 1 down...
That's about 58 different connections in an area that's about 5x5 inches... I'm tired...



The harness on the bottom right is for the Windows up / down and the ignition / crank... (ready to connect)
Next is making a housing for this and then get it on the center console...

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Cut the hole in my console plate... all looks good... I have a 91 console (not the original Kitt 82 style) and I did this for a few reasons... my car is a 5 speed and I need my emergency brake, so I decided to skip the whole fiberglass lower console, and do my own thing... I was thinking of making an angled box, but this will fit (tight) and now I can keep getting more wiring done...

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I had a horrible experience with a local upholstery shop...
The lines in the tuck and roll looked like they were done by a drunk person...

Anywho... luckily, I bought 20 yards of this material... my savior? Acme...
Since the original seat covers / fabric was used to make the pattern and then screw it up, it could not be fixed, unless you had a pattern... And only Acme has those.

Acme offers these kits in their own material, but I do not like velour or vinyl. And the colors they offered were too light. It reminded me of a sun faded material, yuck!

I found this material, it really pops in the sun and against black... Peanut Butter / Ferrari Tan.... the front seats picture was taken inside (flash), but the other pic was of the rear seat covers I just got yesterday (in the box still, a few wrinkles) but I took a picture with sunlight...





Next off is the door panels, headliner, etc...
I have Beechwood carpet and Beechwood headliner material, and it all matched the SEM Palomino color quite well... Disregard the Tweed, but this pics shows all the SEM palomino, Beechwood headliner & carpet and seat material...