When I got my car the tint was old. It totally pulled right off the side windows, but the two "parts" of the tint on the hatch have already separated. The outer layer has been pulled off, while the layer next to the glass is still attached. I thought I read that once that happens, you can no longer use the garbage bag/ammonia method. First, is that true? And second, would a heat gun soften the tint up to allow me to pull it off in slightly bigger chunks? I have to be careful of the defroster lines. I custom made a razor blade that was narrow enough to fit between the lines, but even that will be tedious and dangerous. One slip and you cut whatever defroster line you run into. So I just wondered if a heat gun would make it easier, or what other tips might be out there.

 

The detail shop we use took the tinting off the back hatch for $35. Well worth it, didn't have to worry about the defrost lines.

 

Yeah but were you in the same state I'm in with the separation? I keep hearing that once the outer layer comes off, all you can do is slowly scrape off the rest of the under layer. I'd love to give $35 and get it done! I'll check the tint shop in town and see what they say. Thx.

 

I work in a tint shop, doing only tint and vinyl.
The way I and those in our detail shop remove cured tint is with steam. We have a machine just for that, but usually it takes the adhesive off with the first layer. Just peeling it off will leave residue and adhesive behind.
Best option without a steamer is using a strong window cleaner, I use ammonia free (though i use it for applying as well so it has to be), and a green or white scrub pad on windows with defrosters.

Perhaps lighter fluid soaked and scrubbed would work, I can't confirm this, never done it

 

I wouldn't care if there was sticky residue on the glass as long as the tint was gone. The residue takes some elbow grease, but it will come off with thinner or some other liquid. It's the scraping of the glass I'm trying to avoid, to save the defroster lines. But would window cleaner do enough to loosen the tint? And when you say green or white scrub pad I'm assuming the color is connected to the grit of the pad?

 

The sticky residue can, and usually will pick up EVERYTHING. Dirt in the air, hair, small French children..etc..
I don't remember the brand I use, I go into work tomorrow and can look. It works quite well, better than my adhesive remover does.
I use white scrub pads, again I'll have to check tomorrow on the brand and such. If I have time, I could post pics on getting rid of the adhesive.

On non-defrost windows, dunno if you were having issues, but just strong window cleaner and a razor works.

I've actually used a razor on defrost windows before, ya just really have to be careful.

 

Yeah, it may come to a razor. I took a standard razor blade with holder and ground the leading edge to a more narrow width that would fit between the lines. I haven't tried it yet because I want to explore safer options first. I've got it all pulled off front the bottom up TO the defroster lines. I scraped it off with a regular size razor/holder and used paint thinner to clean off the gook. There are 17 lines to scrape between, so if it comes to that Its going to be a hecker. This is probably why I did my earlier scraping last spring, and haven't gone back to it til now.....But yeah, any brand names would've be good to know if you have a chance to post. Thx.

 

Oh, if all you have left is just the adhesive around the defrost lines, then either a strong window cleaner/lighter fluid and a scrub pad (maybe an s.o.s. or brillo pad?) Should get it right off. Those aren't the kind I use, as far as I know they won't scratch the hell out of the glass. You may want to test on a drinking glass or other piece that you don't care about, just to be certain.
Old tint is a real PITA to get off at times. I had to re-do a 66 caddie that was supposedly done early 00s/90s sometime, started to peel on the edges so they super glued the edges.
The back window on those doesn't have the matrix lines/black outline, what a nightmare.

 

No no, I've cleaned everything off BELOW the defrost lines, but the old tint is still there from where the lines start and on up. The part below the lines was relatively easy because all I had to do was scrape and clean. The paint thinner worked just fine on the glass. I cleaned with glass cleaner after the thinner and it was perfect. But I stopped when I got to the area where the lines begin. I don't mind cleaning the gook off the glass if I can get the tint off, it's the tint Im fighting and that has me concerned about the df lines.

 

Here's a pic that shows the problem....

 

Gotchya, this is the stuff I use. I guess I tossed the box, but those type of pads are the kinds I use. You may have to find one more abrasive, I can't say for sure.
If you have access to a steamer of sorts (perhaps a hot clothing iron, if you have one that will spit out steam?), that would be the best option, if not just peel off the tint and scrub away.
If you do use a razor, be reeeeeeal careful.

If I have time today, I'll see if I can bake some on a car and pull it off and take a few pics of the process, if it'd help.

What kind of wheels are those? The 87 I bought had a damaged 16" one just like it in the back, they look pretty sweet

 

Yeah, step by step pics are always helpful. You might even make a full tech thread on it, I'm sure a lot of guys would be interested in reading it. Thanks for your help/effort. The wheels are the standard 16" GTA's. They're on my car because it's a Ttop/350 combo, one of only 200 made like that in 1992. In 91-92 you had to select the GTA wheels if you wanted the ttop with the 350 because the regular Formula wheels were too heavy, and would have clashed with the fed CAFE fuel economy mess. I pulled them off last May and painted them, then used Mothers metal polish on the outer rim area.