Power locks don't move, but click.
Power locks don't move, but click.
Both of my locks click when I press the button, but don't move much. Sometimes my passenger lock locks and unlocks properly though, but then at times I have to constantly click for the passenger to lock or unlock all the way. As for the driver, that one doesn't lock or unlock at all no matter how many times i push the button. Checked the switches and they're good. Do I need new actuators?
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: S.New Jersey
Car: 90 Iroc Vert
Engine: 5.0L
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Power locks don't move, but click.
First pull the door cards off and lube up the lock mechanisms. There are small rods that push/pull lock mechanisms, they are held with plastic clips, sometimes the are out of clips, or are bound buy something. Sometimes a little lube on the rods at the clips helps also. Check the actuators too, make sure they are fully operating full strokes. Try moving the rods manual, see how much pressure it takes.
If all else fails may need new actuators.
If all else fails may need new actuators.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 403
From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Re: Power locks don't move, but click.
Id spray the solenoids with a lubricant to free them up some.The lube on the plactic clips helps too, but those solenoids are usually the problem.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Red Lake Falls,MN
Car: 1987 Z28 Vert.
Engine: LG4: ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.0L, 4BBL
Transmission: MD8: 4 SPEED AUTO THM700R4
Axle/Gears: GU2: AXLE, REAR 2.73 RATIO
Re: Power locks don't move, but click.
I just replaced my door lock actuators, drilled out the 1/4 inch rivets and added a new pair of solenoids. I got the exact rivets using OEM part number from e..y and a pair of sol. also replaced the panel protectors. Even after this, lock would just bump. I finally reached in the panel and used white grease on the lift mechanism that changes the vertical movement to horizontal connecting rod and also lubed the door latch. After manually moving the rod about 10 times the locks open freely now both doors at same time. My actuators were probably still good but since I had them I replaced them anyway.
Re: Power locks don't move, but click.
I just replaced my door lock actuators, drilled out the 1/4 inch rivets and added a new pair of solenoids. I got the exact rivets using OEM part number from e..y and a pair of sol. also replaced the panel protectors. Even after this, lock would just bump. I finally reached in the panel and used white grease on the lift mechanism that changes the vertical movement to horizontal connecting rod and also lubed the door latch. After manually moving the rod about 10 times the locks open freely now both doors at same time. My actuators were probably still good but since I had them I replaced them anyway.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Red Lake Falls,MN
Car: 1987 Z28 Vert.
Engine: LG4: ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.0L, 4BBL
Transmission: MD8: 4 SPEED AUTO THM700R4
Axle/Gears: GU2: AXLE, REAR 2.73 RATIO
Re: Power locks don't move, but click.
just reach into the panel above the end of the shaft on the actuator/solenoid and you will feel a connector/piece of metal that connects the linkage rod to the actuator shaft with 1 hand and work the linkage with the other and you will feel the part that is moving. One rod is for the door handle and the other works the locks.
Last edited by dragonmas; Dec 6, 2015 at 11:33 AM.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Re: Power locks don't move, but click.
I just went through this too. First I removed and cleaned the latch/lock assembly. You'd be amazed how much crud comes out of it. I used white grease where ever I could reach and spray grease everywhere else. Next check the bell crank assembly. It's the little spring loaded lever that converts the horizontal movement to vertical. There should be a spring on it to bring it back to center. Mine wouldn't work right without the spring in place. I found a replacement at a salvage yard. I used pan head 1/4" x 3/8" bolts and locking nuts to reattach everything. My rivets had worked loose a little and it let this part wiggle some and so using bolts (or new rivets) kept it secure so there's no wasted movement. Then clean and lube the solenoid plunger and everywhere the rods slide through guides. Last, I noticed the drivers was "lazier" than the passengers which I determined was the switch. I found that mine worked better if I pushed the switch just right and firmly. Probably should have been replaced but works every time.
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