installling carpet
installling carpet
Not a mechanic excuse my ignorance. Want to put down sound deadner to reduce noise and heat. If I put that down first do I just put glue over it and then carpet with that work putting glue on top of deadner
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From: Lady Lake, FL
Car: 1988 Camaro
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Re: installling carpet
There's lots of different sound deadening products out there, What are you planning on using?
I've been doing a lot of research on the subject lately, and this is the route I'm going with my car...
Dynomat-like product used appropriately(25% coverage)
1/4" layer of flexible closed cell foam
Layer of mass loaded vinyl,most likely the 1LB /sqft variety.
New carpet on top.
The only thing involving adhesive will be the Dynomat-like product, which will likely be Fatmat.
The closed cell foam can be glued down, but there's really no need for it.
The mass loaded vinyl is NOT supposed to be glued down, otherwise you lose sound deadening performance.
I've been doing a lot of research on the subject lately, and this is the route I'm going with my car...
Dynomat-like product used appropriately(25% coverage)
1/4" layer of flexible closed cell foam
Layer of mass loaded vinyl,most likely the 1LB /sqft variety.
New carpet on top.
The only thing involving adhesive will be the Dynomat-like product, which will likely be Fatmat.
The closed cell foam can be glued down, but there's really no need for it.
The mass loaded vinyl is NOT supposed to be glued down, otherwise you lose sound deadening performance.
Re: installling carpet
Trouble with anything you stick down, is that any moisture or maintenance will require unsticking the stuff from the floor. Water and rust will wick under any loose edges then you gotta rip that **** out. Need to weld something? You can't just weld the steel touching sound deadener, you'll burn your **** to the ground. Can't just prop up the carpet and jute pad, nope you gotta peel up the dynamat. Ferd used that crap or a similar 80's garbage on my Mustang. It took the better part of a weekend with a putty knife and a heat gun just to peel all that **** off in tiny chunks. I pity those retards that cover every square inch of interior with peel and stick products, or at least the poor bastard that comes along later and has to peel it all off to make changes or repairs.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 417
Likes: 26
From: Lady Lake, FL
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: LR4
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23posi/disc
Re: installling carpet
Yep, exactly the reason why my interior is half out and no sound deadener has been applied yet. Interior work gets finished after I stop procrastinating and buy a welder and subframe connectors!
Luckily in my case, the 305 in my car has very generously rust proofed the entire underside of the car with oil. So no floors need replacing, just a VERY good degreasing before any welds happen!
Never understood why some people chose to cover their entire floor in Dynomat. I have to imagine the diminishing returns vs money spent is a very bad ratio lol.
Luckily in my case, the 305 in my car has very generously rust proofed the entire underside of the car with oil. So no floors need replacing, just a VERY good degreasing before any welds happen!
Never understood why some people chose to cover their entire floor in Dynomat. I have to imagine the diminishing returns vs money spent is a very bad ratio lol.
Re: installling carpet
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 417
Likes: 26
From: Lady Lake, FL
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: LR4
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23posi/disc
Re: installling carpet
Not unless you are gluing extra jute padding to the bottom of the carpet.
Sound deadener tiles like Dynomat need to be attached to sheet metal to work, as they absorb vibrations and reduce the resonance of the particular panel you apply it to.
A good example of results would be looking up a video showing before and after applying it to a door. Closing the door before would sound tinny and maybe even rattle, where as after would just be a nice solid thud.
I suppose you could glue some closed cell foam to the bottom of the carpet, but it wouldn't really do much by itself IMO.
The idea behind the method I'll be using, that many many others use and will use in the future is this:
Deadener tiles reduce panel resonance
Then a thin layer(1/8-1/4") of closed cell foam is used as a decoupling layer for the next layer which is the mass loaded vinyl, which because of its high density blocks a lot of noise vibrations.
You want the mass loaded vinyl to be "loose" and not affixed to anything, because to absorb vibrations, it needs to be able to vibrate and flex on its own.
Sound deadener tiles like Dynomat need to be attached to sheet metal to work, as they absorb vibrations and reduce the resonance of the particular panel you apply it to.
A good example of results would be looking up a video showing before and after applying it to a door. Closing the door before would sound tinny and maybe even rattle, where as after would just be a nice solid thud.
I suppose you could glue some closed cell foam to the bottom of the carpet, but it wouldn't really do much by itself IMO.
The idea behind the method I'll be using, that many many others use and will use in the future is this:
Deadener tiles reduce panel resonance
Then a thin layer(1/8-1/4") of closed cell foam is used as a decoupling layer for the next layer which is the mass loaded vinyl, which because of its high density blocks a lot of noise vibrations.
You want the mass loaded vinyl to be "loose" and not affixed to anything, because to absorb vibrations, it needs to be able to vibrate and flex on its own.
Last edited by 885speed; Mar 24, 2020 at 08:35 AM.
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