I believe I may have finally solved the 'broken-latch-spring' problem on my center console cover.

Anyone who knows me knows that I'm often totally against making any non-factory modifications to my car. However, having replaced the tempered spring clip three times in the past 18 years, I started looking for a permanent solution (I even looked at a C4 Corvette console cover latch spring that is similar -just not sufficiently similar to work),

Following is what I did to resolve the issue once and for all:

I bought a 1/4" diam x 1.0" long compression spring and modified the cover molding to accept the new spring. I found what I wanted here on Amazon. Unfortunately, I had to buy 25 of them at one time. However, the price was still less than what I would have paid for an OEM tempered spring. I checked Home Depot and Lowes near me, but neither had a spring this small. Your local home improvement center or hardware store might.

I had to modify the inside of the console lid support molding, but since no one will ever see it (except you and me here on this forum!) I figured it was a small price to pay for solving this problem once and for all.

1. I drilled a 9/32" diameter clearance hole through the original "spring pocket rib" on the console lid support molding.
2. I continued on that same drill centerline and drilled a 9/32" dia. hole about 1/16' deep into the "back wall" of the console lid support molding to create a little pocket for the spring to "seat" into so that it didn't try to squirm out of location once under tension. Be careful not to drill all the way through the wall because you'll have eliminated any way of retaining the spring against the sliding latch molding.
3. I did the same thing to the tail-end of the sliding latch molding (drilled a 9/32" dia. hole about 1/16' deep) in order to do the same thing for the front end of the spring (ie: created a little pocket for the spring to "seat" into so that it didn't try to squirm out of location once under tension).
4. Once installed, the spring will be under tension with about 1/4" of preload. Total installed travel is about 3/8".
5. Since the spring/sliding latch molding is under spring tension once the spring is installed, you'll have to hold the sliding latch molding while reassembling the foam top pad to the plastic console lid support molding.

In my case, this resolved the problem with my console lid latch perfectly, while at the same time slightly increasing the tension on the sliding latch molding (mine was always a little sloppy -even with a brand-new tempered spring in it).

I don't ever expect to ever have to effect this repair again!

 

I’ve actually jammed a seat belt buckle spring in there on several occasions to fix console lids that I have sold in the past

 

I used a similar spring on mine and it worked. I have an extra latch button, but as long as this one is working, it's gonna stay...