If I am putting in the LS1 and the T56 but I use the stock rear end from the third gen, will I be able to use the fourth gen driveshaft with this combo?

My other question is: Is there a differance in width between the third and fourth gen rear end? I want to be able to use the offset wheels that are like the stock 3rd gen wheels but with the fourth gen rear. Is this possible without the wheels sticking really far out of the wheelwell?

Any help here is greatly apreciated, Thanks.

Chris

 

Yes, the 4th gen and 3rd gen Driveshafts are the same length. They interchange from 82-02

 

Cool, what about the rear end for the wheels?

 

Rearend is a direct-swap, except I believe 99+. I think the 98 still had the single brake line off the rearend. I know 99+ had dual lines running to the front of the car instead of both sides running into a T like on our rearends. Thing that sucks is one fitting is smaller than the other (Drivers side is the main concern, you can reuse your factory "T" fitting, just get a new brake line from Napa with the correct fitting to thread into the T, and bend it and hook both sides up and your ready to go). Other than that the rears are direct bolt in. the wheels off a 4th gen will fit without spacers on the rear if you use the 4th gen rearend assembly. 3rd gen wheels on it will stick out from the fenders. (stock Iroc offset in rear is +16mm, most 4th gen style wheels are between +32 - +56mm) Front of the car needs spacers for 4th gen wheels to fit properly.

 

Where can I get these spacers for the front, who sells them?

 

www.skulte.com

 

ugh.

someone needs to redo this whole thread with the "modern" answers... just make a new "FAQ" sticky....


i'll probly figure it out and do it when i do my LS1 swap... like i did with the T56 install...

 

Thanks for the answers guys!

 

I am starting to consider doing an LS1 swap on my IROC, but not sure if I want to get into it yet. Has anyone made a big parts list of everything needed for the swap? It would be a 4L60E in an 89 IROC that currently has a L98/700R4 setup. I just want to add everything up so I can get a closer idea of what I'd be getting into if I decide to do it. Thanks in advance

 

well, im doing it, so i guess i can start a list.
im not done yet, and im not really taking notes, but heres what i have off the top of my head so far:


LS1 pullout drivetrain with accessorys, wiring harness and ECM.
motor mounts
trans crossmember


Fuel system:

attachement method to LS1 fuel rail.

method 1:
3/8" compression fitting to AN
AN hose
aftermarket regulator
AN fittings
walbro EFI fuel pump (optional if TPI pump installed)

method 2:
stock LS1 fuel line between engine and car
aftermarket regulator
fittings to connect.
walbro EFI fuel pump (optional if TPI pump installed)

method 3:
LS1 fuel tank complete with fuel pump
connected to factory fuel line (remove return and vent lines)
stock LS1 engine to car fuel line.
adapter to connect engine line to stock hardline.

method 4
same as method 3, but run OEM 4thgen style plastic line. no adapters needed.




exhaust needs to be fabricated.. muffler shop may charge anywhere from $100 -$500 - some ships wont do it.

wiring:
heat shrink
solder
solder gun/iron
harness wrap tape (NOT electrical tape)
zip ties
electric system diagrams.

under dash harness... nice to have. optional though.

4thgen throttle cable

if swapping from auto to manual:
console top
under console boot
tin snips
pedals


gauges:
tach adapter of some sort... LS1 puts out a 4cyl tach pulse. most of us have V8 tachs.
speedo adapter.... may be able to do in PCM. i dont know yet. most likely, you'll have to tap into the 4thgen VSS, and run a converter box.
use a 98 LS1 oil pressure sending unit.. this lets you connect the oil pressure wire to the gauge.
i plan to try to put a 3rdgen temp sensor in the water jacket.. i donno if that'll work yet.
everything else works like stock.

air intake:
need to fabricate some form of air intake.. two bellows and a TPI intake would work... im making my own with 3" or 4" pipe and a cone K&N filter. atleast thats the plan right now. engine is still in the donor car.


PCM programming.. either by buying HP tuners, LS1 edit, ect... or by getting a "mail order tune"
you need the VATS taken out, BCM codes taken care of, along with some other minor things, like rear O2 delete(if needed), EGR delete (if needed), ect.....

 

Thank you very much. As for the exhaust- I can use the tubular K member and control arms and long tubes will fit, correct?

As for the wiring, how much modification to the harness is necessary? Is the harness from Speartech a good idea?

For the gauges, I already use an AutoMeter water temp gauge and I would like to get an oil pressure gauge too.

Does the LS1 ECM go in place of the ECM I currently have?

 

thats unknown right now.
as of right now, everyone is either using manifolds or custom 3rdgen LS1 headers.. ive heard rumors the mac mid lengths fit.. as far as i know, thats unconfirmed.
i have a tubular K member, and i have access to a set of LS1 hookers to barrow... so if i can, id like to test it myself... but as of right now, you dont have many options.

its VERY VERY minimal.
basicly you just have to wire about 10 wires to make it fit.. most of thoes are on one plug that goes into the cabin in a stock 4thgen app.. mostly its ECM power, gauges, ign power and grounds. the harness is almost stand alone already.

john spears is a great guy who makes great harnesses. if you were making a big buck LS1 street rod, id reccomend him.. but with the diffrences between 3rdgen and 4thgen being so minimal, and the additional cost he has to charge with dyno testing motors, wiring, connectors, ect... its just not economical.

there were only two places i WANTED to buy my motor from.. Speartech and Hawks... Speartech was out of my price range ( dyno tested, plug and play everything, around 9k)... so i waited until hawks got a 6spd donor car in.


theres a oil boss thats sometimes tapped and plugged, othertimes its not tapped. if you tap it, you can strew a standard pipefitting sensor in there.. like a autometer oil pressure one.



it cant. while it does replace all its functions, it cant physiclly reach there without modifying the harness. it has to remain under the hood. the LS1 PCM does do the fuel pump prime and all the other functions the stock ECM did, so you may remove your stock one.






keep in mind, while im doing hardcore research and reading books out the wazoo on genIII stuff, i have yet to do the swap.. my motor is still at hawks and im not picking it up until around the 1st of the year.

 

I don't think so.

 

So is it just basically lengthening the wires to reach? Is there anywhere with a diagram or something showing what I have to do to which wires?

And are there any good books/websites you recommed I check out?

Thanks again for the help

 

well i got most of my wiring info here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ght=LS1+wiring

and i cross checked it with LS1 diagrams found elsewhere.

and i got my 91 camaro GM wiring stuff here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ght=LS1+wiring



theres not alot to it. you just get the LS1 harness infront of you, take the only connector thats not connected to anything, and start connecting thoes wires.

then you just need to do the gauges and you're done.

 

He, wiring WILL reach the stock location if you run it through a factory grommet hole in the firewall. When I ran my wiring I used the hole below the 2 heater hose holes. It reached inside the car and loked real clean with the wiring coming up from behind the motor instead of the fenderwell over. I forget what was originally in that hole but I deleted alot of stuff on my car so I didn't need it.

Also, "Thank you very much. As for the exhaust- I can use the tubular K member and control arms and long tubes will fit, correct? "

I make custom 3rd gen LT's for the LS1. I made a pair for my car, you can view them here https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=270765 If your interested let me know. I can have them coated as well. I got tired of waiting for Hawks lol.

 

Some more good info here, but I agree that it needs to be cleaned up a bit.

Just wanted to clarify a few things. An 89 IROC will have a mechanical speedo, so you will need a converter box to go from electrical to mechanical.... last time I checked they were $300. So needlees to say I have been speedoless for awhile, well actually I can use the HPtuners software and laptop and just scan the whole time I'm driving, its got a pretty cool gauge layout with a speedo so...

Also, the oil pressure gauge will work without anything extra, just splice in the oil pressure wire from the LS1 harness with the old stock wire coming out of the C100 bulkhead connector (its a tan wire and so is the LS1 wire) and you're good to go. To get the stock Temp gauge to work, you will need to get the 98 F-Body LS1 sending unit and put it in the passenger side cylinder head. This was the only year to use a sending unit for the temp gauge, 99 and up use serial data.

I think the rest is covered pretty well. Good luck guys.

 

Not true, it depends on if the 99+ vehicle has traction control or not. If it does NOT have traction control(traction control = 4 channel ABS) it will only have one line running to the T in the back.

Clint

 

I was talking to someone about the possibility of swapping an LS1 into my IROC, and he mentioned that the oil pan is different on the LS1. It will still have enough clearance, correct?

 

with the Fbody pan, yes.

with the Y body pan, no.

with the truck pan, yes it fits, BUT its very very low and would be the lowest part on the car.

 

Here is some more food for thought on the whole 3rd gen/4th gen rear end swap ideal:

From everyone I have talked to, there is ABSOLUTELY NO ADVANTAGE to swapping on a 4th gen 10 bolt stock rear onto our 3rd gen cars. The 10 bolt that came on the 3rd gen is JUST AS STRONG. (And the 9-bolt Borg-Warner that came on some Pontiacs may even be just a tad stronger).

The bottom line is this: If you are putting 400hp to the wheels and only using street tires, you will be fine. But, if you using some good sticky tires or slicks, you are going to BREAK your rear end - even a 4th gen rear end!!

Plenty of guys on LS1tech.com with 4th gen cars who have destroyed their 4th gen stock rears with a STOCK or LIGHTLY modded LS1 as soon as they went with slicks.

I'd stick with the 3rd gen rear and avoid all the extra problems with wheel spacing, ebrake, and brake lines, unless you are going to step up to a 12-bolt or 9".

Adam

 

I think the biggest reason people swap to the 4th gen rears (at least from my experience) is the brakes and gears. LS1 rears have the 3.42 or 3.23, better posi, and 12in rotors. When you can pick up a newer rear with a good posi, 3.42's, and 12in rotors for around $300 usually you can't beat it. I have a 4th gen rear just cuz I got a killer deal on it with my Viper T56. $200 for a eaton pro posi, 3.73, moser axle 10bolt with TA stud girdle cover. 1,500 miles. Of course you'll break a 10 bolt with alot of power and sticky tires.

 

That's a good point that I hadn't thought about. My Formula has 11 inch discs on the back with 3.27 gears stock, but I have to remember a lot of people only had drums and taller gearing.

 

yup.

alot of 4thgen owners consider them to be crap (understanably)

so when they swap in their 12bolt, they basicly give them away.


i got mine for free (sans brakes)... another $75 for Lt1 brakes and poof.... i have about $100 invested and i go from 2.73 open drum to 3.42 posi disc, and i got another free one that has GM 3.73s in it... (for when i break one...) i also had a 4.11 one, but i blew it up first time i ran it with slicks

 

For me, I wanted something indestructible. SO, I went with a Moser 9", 4th gen brakes and wheels, 35 spline locker, Spohn torque arm, relocated LCAs, etc.

 

Yeah, let us know how that goes.

hint: C100 on the 3rd gen side has 12VDC pins with no equivalent on the LS1 harness. Bunch of pins on the LS1 side with no equivalent on the 3rd gen harness.

Gotta love guys who haven't actually completed the project posting incorrect advice. That thing earlier about using a 98 oil pressure sending unit is bogus also. 98 coolant temp sensor is the one you want for gauge output. The oil pressure sender on all 1998-2002 F-bodies is gauge output only, just connect it to your existing gauge pin on either C100 or C207 and you get a reading.

 

:hail: oh thank you mr guy who has done it and not written a manual to share his info.

im picking up my drivetrain from hawks tomarrow, and plan to document everything.. similar to what i did when i did the T56 swap.

hint: it doesnt matter if the LS1 side doesnt have a direct equlivent. if the wire needs to be connected to somthing, you connect it... +12v constant hot? no prob. igntion only including start? no prob.

just because thoes wires dont directly connect to somthing RIGHT THERE, doesnt mean they cant be connected.
plus theres wires left over you dont even have to connect... its not that hard. ive gone over them enough times.

so i said oil when i ment water.. whoops. after i finish condensing usless crap info, (like this post and the post above) we can unsticky/remove this thread, let it die on the bottom of the forum, and have somthing potentally useful.... since after all, sooo many people like you have done swaps and already done this for everyone.

 

btw, you could have just corrected me and helped everyone.. like StngKlr already did.

 

Like a wise man once said..."I'm not arguing with you, I just don't have any tact."

 

Hey Guys i'm New to the board i was searching around for info on the LS1 Swap cause i just bought one....But i've notice most of you said you can use the LS1 headers you gotta use shorts or custom made but they now sell a Tubular K Member that allows you to fit them with the help that you buy the tubular A arms too.But i just have one question the kit i bought is a easy hook up wire harness but it doesnt come with a computer but its plug and play can i hook this into a after market computer for the LS1?

 

Sorry i dont mean to reply twice to this topic right after another but I have something to say about the rear issue you guys are talking about....Before i started to swap my LS1 i had a Worked 355 in my car ran probley mid to low 12s..I blew threw 2 10 bolt rears an now i'm on a 10 bolt that we made from a 2002 ws6 it has mostly moser parts in it...The thing is though there still weak even with my weak 350hp car it was hurt that rear bad i never ran slicks on it yet.I'm just saying if you were to upgrade i wouldnt spend the money on a weak 10 bolt there junk.

 

I think we all know that by now lol but thanks for the info. You'll have to find a computer for your wiring harness. The aftermarket systems have their own harnesses. F.A.S.T, Accel, Holley, etc. And the Tubular k-member is still an issue with LT's from an LS1, biggest reason is the angle the headers take under the car, the collectors point off towards the side of the car (hitting the frame rails/fuel lines etc)

 

i plan to do an ls1 swap in the next few months. it will be very budget. im getting a set of used hooker lt's(i will make them fit, no matter how much trouble) im going to use a set of stock 241 heads with comp 26918 springs, a 237/244 dur 602 620 lift 114 cam, stock short block, ls6 intake, and i plan on making 400+ rwhp. im going with an o2 sensor delete tune, ill use a 3500-4000 converter in my built th350 and my 9bolt 3.27 gear rear. if i can make 410 rwhp i should run 10.90's on motor and 9.90's on a 175 dry shot. on the 175 shot i expect to see 600+rwhp. ill need a roll cage! and a 12 bolt. this is not exactly new territory for me. ill spend no more than $2500. i might go as high as $3400, if i can buy a wrecked 6 speed car. anyone want some l98 parts for cheap?

 

I hate to burst your bubble but with only 410rwhp you wont make it 10.90s unless your car weighs next to nothing.It might go like high 11s.

 

You say this isn't new territory for you, yet you don't seem to know very much about swapping an LS1 into a third gen.

For starters, with an 88 GTA and 410 rwhp, low-mid 12's are more likely than high 10's, unless you've reduced the weight of your car by a lot.

Secondly, that is WAY too big of a cam to put in an LS1 engine with stock heads. Even if you CAN make 410 rwhp with that setup (which will be next to impossible), it will only be PEAK hp, with a very steep curve that will be worthless for racing. With stock heads, you want to stay something closer to a Z06 cam (206/218, 119lsa). With that cam, you will need at least Stage 2 porting to take advantage of its potential. (And you'd be WAAAYYYY over budget - the porting job will cost you well over a grand for a reputable professional with LS1 head experience).

Actually, there is NO WAY you will be within that budget for what you have listed. Just the engine, cam kit, and tune will run you over $3400, even if you buy a wreck. That's not figuring in engine mounts, y-pipe or other exhaust issues, wiring, radiator, torque arm, custom length driveshaft, or a lot of little things you WILL run into for issues. All solvable issues to be sure, but at a definite $$$ cost.

If you ever do reach 600 rwhp, you should consider a Moser 9" over a 12-bolt. The 9" is better built, more reliable, and quieter from all reports I've heard.

If that truly is the limit of your budget, you'd be much smarter to just put a turbocharger on your stock engine. LS1 swaps are not for the faint of heart, or those with light checkbooks - plan on spending a bare minimum of $5k if you want to do it right (assuming you do all labor yourself), and that is for a STOCK LS1 engine. For the head/cam kit/rear end that you'll need to reach your goals, it'll be more like $8k+

If it was that cheap to do an LS1 swap and make 400-600 rwhp, EVERYBODY would be doing it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Actually, if you've already got a standard V8 rad in your thirdgen and a regular 10-bolt rear you don't usually need a new rad, custom driveshaft, or replacement torque arm.

Mine's been on the road for a year w/ a 2001 LS1/T56 powertrain, plus 5 road course events w/ a Modine replacement L98 rad, and it's never had cooling problems.

I agree w/ your points on the costs tho, it's not a cheap project to undertake.

 

I see 10s with a 200 shot

 

you hate to burst my bubble huh?ive never swaped an ls1 into a third gen but you have no idea what you are talking about! thats too big of a cam for a stock ls1 head, huh? that happens to be the cam that MADE 457RWHP ON A STOCK LS1 HEAD! maybe you know more than me about swaping an ls1 intoo a third gen, but ive been in and around ls1's for years now. i helped a freind build the ls1 station wagon, and i wired it up. i have a driveshaft already made up, it happens to be in my car right now. i have had the opertunnity to buy complete ls1's with wireing and comp for $1200 many times.the torque converter and springs are going to be the only parts i bought new. my gta already went a low 12 with 307rwhp and 437wrtq. that was when the car was 3515lbs! it now wieghs 3168. with the ls1 it will weigh about 3000lbs with nitrous bottle. how about i do a break down of the cost of parts?
$1200-ls1 w/harness and comp
$269-ptc torque converter
$100-motor mounts(i might make these)
$100-used hooker lt's
$75-used hooker y pipe
$400-misc parts, fluids, gaskets
$98-aeromotive regulator
$295- cam(the one that you say is toooooo big that you have never seen a dyno of)
$152-comp 26918-16 springs
$0-o2 delete tune will be free of charge(my brother will do it)
$0-howe radiator i already have in my car
$0-"custom"drive shaft i already have
$0- torque arm i have, wth is that all about?
$0-exhuast "issues" a freind who owns an exhaust shop offered to do it for free (he just happens to have an s10 that runs 10.60's, makes 410rwhp, and wieghs 3200lbs)


weeeelllll looks like about $2689......if i left anything out , let me know.

remember, just because you have never seen something does not mean it dosnt exist!

do me favor, go over to ls2.com/ ls1.com/ls1tech.com and get some info before you try to shoot down ideas with your "mind dyno" and you scientific aproach to power, you know the one where you think something will not make that much hp, so it is deffinatly not going to happen.

 

vejatabul- I like your ideas.... Dyno #'s don't mean **** to me... I expect some good ones out of my LS1 I just built for my GTA, but I plan on backing the #'s up with good ET's too. I know exactly what all you are saying, looking forward to seeing your buildup.

 

A strong rear end. Sorry, I don't see you running 10s and 11s on a stock rear end. The launch required for 10s and 11s would destroy the stock rear.

 

And the new rear end (which you mentioned you would end up needing) will add a huge addition to your "cost list" and may require a new driveshaft, which is what I was referring to.

I also said that you would have to reduce your weight substantially - an LS1 engine itself only drops about 100 pounds, you are stating you are dropping 500 pounds - that is exactly the kind of weight reduction to which I was referring. You probably WILL hit low 11s or maybe even high 10s on just motor with the weight you have.

For your information, I've spent many, many hours on the sites you listed. I've done my homework. As to my "mind dyno," I am basing my estimates on others who have swapped an LS1 into a 3rd Gen, as well as what the 4th gen guys perform at - based on the ET slips I have SEEN and the dyno graphs I have LOOKED AT. Your GTA with a TPI had an insane amount of low-end torque compared to what an LS1 engine does, which is why the old TPI engines did so well in the quarter mile; the LS1s have more PEAK hp, but actually are weak on low-end torque, until you start modding them.

As to your cam, 457 PEAK hp on cam only means NOTHING - YOU are the one with the "mind dyno." Show me the dyno graph with the torque and hp curves, please. More peak hp does not always equate to faster quarter mile times. Back up your statement with an official ET slip and I'll gladly apologize for criticizing your setup; till then, I stand by my statement that for those times (without huge weight reduction from stock - which you have now clarified that you have done) you will need to port your heads to take advantage of that cam's true potential throughout the ENTIRE power band. Peak HP ratings are a marketing gimmick; if you know so much, you should already know that too.

If you can actually find LS1 engines for those prices, maybe you should consider buying and selling them - I looked for many months and never found one remotely close to that price; You won't find them on LS1tech for those prices either, and those guys are notorious for lowballing people.

Finally, why are you so hostile? If you can do what you say you can, just relax, prove me wrong, post your time slips and dyno graphs, and I'll gladly apologize like I said. Until then, it is YOU who has the "mind dyno" in my opinion - and I have a right to my opinion.

Good luck with the swap, I'm looking forward to seeing what you end up with.

 

I've found a couple LS1 motors out of 02 Vettes for about a grand to 1500 with around 30,000 miles.....But like the guy above stats you would have drop alot of weight to get that car into the times you want.....I have a base model Camaro that use to have a 355 in it worked.The car weight 3100 pounds with me in it the car has be torn to bare to save weight and my car with 388rwhp and 425 pounds of TQ to the rear with 4.11 gears ran low 12s thats it...An that was a a 4K stall converter and 28inch tall slicks.So i deffintly dont see you running your 10's on motor unless your car weighs nothing...An i've been around people building engines for years now and my 2 good friends are LS1 motor heads...My friend nick is push almost 500hp to the wheels an running 11 flat.

 

you say the ls1 has no low end torque. any ls1 with a big torque converter will make over 400rwtq@3500-4000. with peak hp at 6800rpm, that is a very desireable ratio. much better than peak tq at 2500rpm and peak hp at 4800prm. you know as well as any other that you can go very fast with little power. its all in the 60 foot. my car already does 1.65 on motor on 245/50/16 dr's with no suspension mods. im not really hostile, you just come across as someone who thinks they know what is possible, but you are makeing assumptions about peak hp and torque. its not a turbo car, it wont make power like a supra. theres no way it will just "come alive" at 6000rpm and not make any power down low. you know that it dosnt take 500rwtq to run a low 10, but it does take 500rwhp to run a low ten. there are no equations for tq/et predictions. sorry for sounding hostile. i think we should all be more accepting of others ideas, especiaty when there is the possiblity that they might know something we dont.

 

oh and i forgot to address you. my camaro ran a 12.45@108,wieghed 3340lbs w/ driver, and never made more than 275rwhp and 360rwtq. it went a 1.69 60' on a 255/50/16 bfg dr
with a 3200rpm converter and 3.27 gears.

 

Quick question, what happens to the ALDL port when you swap the LS1? Maybe it's a dumb question...

Thanks,
Chuck

 

actually, there are ALOT of stock weight cam only cars in the low 11s and 10s.. the stock LS1head is like a aftermarket SBC one when you compare results and flow rates.. im personally sticking a 224/228 on a 114 in mine.. mostly because it'll idle like stock and put out a flat curve with more TQ then stock down low and give me a non-peaky powerband peak of over 370 at the rear wheels.. with careful tuning, guys have seen it touch 400 with this cam.

and think about what you're reccomending.. a stock Z06 cam.. well, like every other stock cam in the last 30 years, it has to meet smog, factory tests, NVH, ect... and most performance enthusiests dont mind a rougher idle, ect... so theres still more "cam" left in it.

there are guys with overkill cams DEEP in the 10s.. sure everyone sees a large benifit with porting, but the LS1 does take larger then normal cams easily, and its cheaper for some guys on a budget to just put more cam in...

or unless you're good at drag racing.
for some reason, most thirdgen guys suck at it. they get 1.8+ sixty foot times, and they wonder why their "ten second motor" runs mid 12s.. get it to hook, tweek the car down, and you can touch the 11s with a bolton LS1 and converter... just like the heavier 4thgen cars do.
will most people do that? no. usually because they dont know how.
makes me feel like im talking to brick walls somtimes.

i agree his budget isnt realistic.... honestly ive spent almost 5k so far.... athough that is almost totally offset by my SBC parts ive sold. i currently have $700 into the swap by the time you add in the parts ive sold.
i dont have a RWHP goal, but it would be nice to see it touch the 11s without being too extreme.. with my 230lb butt in her, she should weigh 3,210... so im hoping to hit 11s with just the cam, tune, slicks, gears and some luck.

 

yup and yup.. thoes are just add-ons you could always do later when you have more money.

 

you can cut the regulator amount in less then half.. just use a corvette regulator/filter... the regulator is built into the filter... and since the filter is a replacement item, its cheap.

skip the hookers for now.. getting it running should take priority.. addons kill projects like these
you need pushrods for that cam (or any other)
you need some form of air intake.. im using a 14" long K&N cone filter, a 4" to 3.5" elbow between the throttlebody and MAF, 3.5" - 4" hump hose between the maf and inlet tube, and a 4" inlet tube to the filter..
any motor you find for that price wont have a trans, so you want to take that into account... along with a flexplate.

all-in-all, i think a $3000 LS1 swap is POSSIBLE if you want to swap a stock one in... the little things kill ya, and you would be waiting a long time to get the best deals, but its POSSIBLE..


athough i think i have ya beat. i have it almost done, and im only $700 into it. :lala:

 

you asked for it......


it went GREAT. really easy and looks DEAD STOCK.
no one would ever know.

i ran my 98 coolent temp sensor wires in with the factory harness to come out near the other underhood connectors... making it so that with two mid size weather pack connections(and the purple starter weatherpack), the whole harness is on or off.


honestly, it was kinda cold since it never got above 50* yesterday, but it went smoothly and pretty easily.


my statement stands, now set in stone:
THERES NOT ALOT TO IT.:lala:

 

the stock one?

you can just remove it.


the ODBII connector you just add on... it gets connected to power, ground, and the serial data wires...