View Poll Results: Which applys for you ?
I like the idea of having a ready made harness but probably want to attempt the wiring on my own.
10
28.57%
I may take a look at the wiring but if it seems to be trouble i'd purchase one with no problem
8
22.86%
I'd like to purchase the first option asap wheres my part ??
7
20.00%
I'd like to purchase the second option asap get to work !
3
8.57%
It's possible i'd purchase one but still unlikely that I really will.
3
8.57%
I like just spinning tires and talking about how torque wins on the street, tpi for me i'll throw my money away.
4
11.43%
Voters: 35. You may not vote on this poll
Harness Interest ?
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Harness Interest ?
I've been working on the ability to produce some LT1 swap engine harnesses, and in the future LS1 along with others (LT1 first) and would like some input as to the desire for these.
The first option which I may be able to do sometime in June would require you to send me both the engine harness for your car, and the LT1, only the connector housings will be re used, all new pins, all new wires. This would simply plug in at the C100 and C207 connectors and then into the existing engine sensors, completely done, pcm in the stock location for the ecm inside the dash, all factory gauges working. Pricing for this I hope to keep around $400, maybe a bit lower or higher but shouldnt be a problem keeping it sub $500.
The second would include all new connector housings, new wire etc, a ready to go in stock harness, just place the order and wait for your wiring. Pricing for this would likely be around $700, the upside to this is you now get to sell your LT1 harness for about $150 is the average on one, and the tpi harness you have, or the tbi unit you removed as a complete piece, which they typically go for 100-150, making it a nice option also.
I know that it seems quite a few people are intimidated by the wiring and for that reason dont want to attempt the swap, I definetly feel that a lot of people are missing out on a great engine choice especially for the dollar spent compared to the other options, yes some like to claim that "torque wins on the street" and stick to a tpi, good luck with that, some of us are in the real world and know very well we cant plant all the extra torque, and that a short runner setup will still make enough torque and bottom end to obliterate our "street" tires in a "street" race, so when tires stop spinning, who's really got a more useable powerband ?
I already offer pre made fuel lines and the power steering pressure hose with adapter fittings, in the near future i'll be working on providing pre made air conditioning lines to make this swap as easy as it can be, soon enough a full "Kit" in a box only requiring your car, and an LT1 with trans.
Please respond to the poll if you're considering the swap, working on piecing one together slowly, or have done it but are unhappy with how the harness turned out and would like something with a bit better fitment.
The first option which I may be able to do sometime in June would require you to send me both the engine harness for your car, and the LT1, only the connector housings will be re used, all new pins, all new wires. This would simply plug in at the C100 and C207 connectors and then into the existing engine sensors, completely done, pcm in the stock location for the ecm inside the dash, all factory gauges working. Pricing for this I hope to keep around $400, maybe a bit lower or higher but shouldnt be a problem keeping it sub $500.
The second would include all new connector housings, new wire etc, a ready to go in stock harness, just place the order and wait for your wiring. Pricing for this would likely be around $700, the upside to this is you now get to sell your LT1 harness for about $150 is the average on one, and the tpi harness you have, or the tbi unit you removed as a complete piece, which they typically go for 100-150, making it a nice option also.
I know that it seems quite a few people are intimidated by the wiring and for that reason dont want to attempt the swap, I definetly feel that a lot of people are missing out on a great engine choice especially for the dollar spent compared to the other options, yes some like to claim that "torque wins on the street" and stick to a tpi, good luck with that, some of us are in the real world and know very well we cant plant all the extra torque, and that a short runner setup will still make enough torque and bottom end to obliterate our "street" tires in a "street" race, so when tires stop spinning, who's really got a more useable powerband ?
I already offer pre made fuel lines and the power steering pressure hose with adapter fittings, in the near future i'll be working on providing pre made air conditioning lines to make this swap as easy as it can be, soon enough a full "Kit" in a box only requiring your car, and an LT1 with trans.
Please respond to the poll if you're considering the swap, working on piecing one together slowly, or have done it but are unhappy with how the harness turned out and would like something with a bit better fitment.
#2
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: michigan
Posts: 13,039
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
personally i'd love to have a way to take a factory ls1 engine harness and ecm, tie it into a factory thirdgen dash/insturment harness section so the thirdgen guages all work properly and have the actual ls1 engine harness extended roughly 2-3' so that the computer could be installed in the factory location.
do this properly, neatly and you would find alot of buyers if you can keep the prices reasonable. some of the shops out there are asking very high numbers for such work.
do this properly, neatly and you would find alot of buyers if you can keep the prices reasonable. some of the shops out there are asking very high numbers for such work.
#3
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Jeff the prices I've posted will be VERY close to the actual cost, i've already searched out the majority of the connectors, im just working on a last few and some smaller quantities for some of them, the fitment will be dead on, wrapped in new plastic loom, it would be as if it was ready for the GM assembly line, I know you'd like an LS1 harness, and maybe sometime next month i'll be able to offer those, not too many connectors are different, pricing may be a tad higher due to the pcm connector as far as the completely new version goes. Guess we'll see soon how much difference in price an LS1 harness will be.
#5
Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Canada
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 92 quasar gta
Engine: Nothing
Transmission: Nothing
Axle/Gears: 4.11s
its too bad they dont make like a jumper extender so you could plug onto the ecm wiring to like a female attachment and extend it like 4 feet down and around and into the dash and then plug the ecm in there.. i guess you would have a huge block there but at least it would get the computer out of the way and save tryin to hack up the wiring..
i think u have a really good idea but its a hell of a lot of time and research for how much return? how many people buy the harnesses and how many different combinations are there with all the cars thru the years? most people coming here are looking at how to do it on their own as cheap as possible.. or on the other side of the coin takin their whole cars to get done at like hawks or what not..
i think u have a really good idea but its a hell of a lot of time and research for how much return? how many people buy the harnesses and how many different combinations are there with all the cars thru the years? most people coming here are looking at how to do it on their own as cheap as possible.. or on the other side of the coin takin their whole cars to get done at like hawks or what not..
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,512
Received 16 Likes
on
9 Posts
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 6.0
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I would be interested in the alternatives, or just something that allows you to plug and play an LT1 or LS1 harness into a 3rd gen. Tough to do I know, but it would be nice.
I'd be interested in it, but at the same time, I'd try to do it myself first. Especially since I haven't managed to finish my swap yet because of the wiring
-jason
I'd be interested in it, but at the same time, I'd try to do it myself first. Especially since I haven't managed to finish my swap yet because of the wiring
-jason
Trending Topics
#8
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by Ace
its too bad they dont make like a jumper extender so you could plug onto the ecm wiring to like a female attachment and extend it like 4 feet down and around and into the dash and then plug the ecm in there.. i guess you would have a huge block there but at least it would get the computer out of the way and save tryin to hack up the wiring..
i think u have a really good idea but its a hell of a lot of time and research for how much return? how many people buy the harnesses and how many different combinations are there with all the cars thru the years? most people coming here are looking at how to do it on their own as cheap as possible.. or on the other side of the coin takin their whole cars to get done at like hawks or what not..
its too bad they dont make like a jumper extender so you could plug onto the ecm wiring to like a female attachment and extend it like 4 feet down and around and into the dash and then plug the ecm in there.. i guess you would have a huge block there but at least it would get the computer out of the way and save tryin to hack up the wiring..
i think u have a really good idea but its a hell of a lot of time and research for how much return? how many people buy the harnesses and how many different combinations are there with all the cars thru the years? most people coming here are looking at how to do it on their own as cheap as possible.. or on the other side of the coin takin their whole cars to get done at like hawks or what not..
I know some like to just drop their car off somewhere, I do the swap for customers also, i've done the LT1 swap twice in cars of my own, one 92 RS for a customer, one 92 RS for a friend, and I am currently working on a complete 88 for a customer. However what I am trying to do is make a package available that lets someone who wants to install the motor themself get a custom installed like appearance. I've seen how most peoples engine bay's look after the swap, and to me a lot are lacking quite a bit, if I dont go with a custom turbo setup this next car im building for myself will have an LT1 / T56 install, it will be installed so correctly that people who dont know LT1's did not come in thirdgens will not have even the slightest clue.
Jaysz28: This is exactly what I am working on, a complete 1 piece harness, all new wire, new pins in the connectors, no splices, no shrinkwrap, no extra sections of harness sticking out where they neednt be from using a 4th gen harness. Completely plug and play.
#11
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Hahahaaha two votes for TPI, some people just dont understand.
Ah well soon after the LT1 and LS1 harnesses i'll likely be making tpi versions to help out people putting 7730 setups into pre 90 cars, should also help those wanting to install stealthrams and the like without having to fight with tracking down just a harness.
Ah well soon after the LT1 and LS1 harnesses i'll likely be making tpi versions to help out people putting 7730 setups into pre 90 cars, should also help those wanting to install stealthrams and the like without having to fight with tracking down just a harness.
#12
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Western NY
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 2007 Saturn Sky Redline
Engine: 2.0 turbo
Transmission: m5
Axle/Gears: 3.91 LSD
Originally posted by Z28*****
Hahahaaha two votes for TPI, some people just dont understand.
Ah well soon after the LT1 and LS1 harnesses i'll likely be making tpi versions to help out people putting 7730 setups into pre 90 cars, should also help those wanting to install stealthrams and the like without having to fight with tracking down just a harness.
Hahahaaha two votes for TPI, some people just dont understand.
Ah well soon after the LT1 and LS1 harnesses i'll likely be making tpi versions to help out people putting 7730 setups into pre 90 cars, should also help those wanting to install stealthrams and the like without having to fight with tracking down just a harness.
#13
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: michigan
Posts: 13,039
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Ace
its too bad they dont make like a jumper extender so you could plug onto the ecm wiring to like a female attachment and extend it like 4 feet down and around and into the dash and then plug the ecm in there....
its too bad they dont make like a jumper extender so you could plug onto the ecm wiring to like a female attachment and extend it like 4 feet down and around and into the dash and then plug the ecm in there....
#14
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by Kandied91z
#15
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: michigan
Posts: 13,039
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so your saying the only physical way to extend the factory ls1 harness is to eithe cut the harness and extend, make a new one completely or cut off the male end and use a weather tight male end making a female/male extension to obviously extend it?
#16
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
The problem with trying to make an extension as I said above jeff is there is no "male" part you can cut from something, the connector side to it with the male pins is designed to be encased into the pcm, you wouldnt get a reasonable weathertight seal for use under the hood with it, cutting and extending the 85 or so wires is the only way to lengthen the existing one, so thats about 170 extra splices to check if something goes bad, or just extra risk spots for the possibility. A heck of a lot of time, and a huge pain in the butt soldering all of those and heat shrinking them, let alone the fact that you'd pretty much have to stagger them, or you'd end up with one big bulge where you did the splice due to all the wires being covered in heat shrink.
The only way IMO and the proper way is to build a complete new harness, which is what im trying to make available.
The only way IMO and the proper way is to build a complete new harness, which is what im trying to make available.
#18
Supreme Member
I'm terrible at wiring, truth be told I'd rather pay $400 to be able to swap out my old harness and plug and play a new one (assuming this took care of everything, nothing other than plug and play on my part?).
#20
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by Chuck!
I'm terrible at wiring, truth be told I'd rather pay $400 to be able to swap out my old harness and plug and play a new one (assuming this took care of everything, nothing other than plug and play on my part?).
I'm terrible at wiring, truth be told I'd rather pay $400 to be able to swap out my old harness and plug and play a new one (assuming this took care of everything, nothing other than plug and play on my part?).
#21
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by MrDude_1
wheres the option for "ive done it myself, and am incredibly happy about how well it came out" option??
wheres the option for "ive done it myself, and am incredibly happy about how well it came out" option??
#22
Supreme Member
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 2,963
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by Z28*****
I dont care to ask those who might be happy with an OK fit, or feel like spending hours upon hours to get a quality fit from a stock harness, nor someone who wants a lot of splices into the wiring. This is to be a quality harness made for the vehicle, not some adaptation.
I dont care to ask those who might be happy with an OK fit, or feel like spending hours upon hours to get a quality fit from a stock harness, nor someone who wants a lot of splices into the wiring. This is to be a quality harness made for the vehicle, not some adaptation.
At the $400+ price point you're in range of Speartech and his competitors. Spears is a retired GM engineer with credentials and industry experience.
As for quality, my degree and 7+ years with GE says my work quality isn't within your ability to question it based on what I've seen thus far.
So...what credentials do you have to back up your statements about the proposed quality of your nonexistent work?
#24
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
I've started with the first LT1 thirdgen swap that got popular on these boards in 1999, i've done them in automatic, and T56, I work at thirdgenparts.com i've had enough hands on experience with working on thirdgens, and enough cars here to be able to get a proper fitment, when I started the LT1 swap there was no info, here or much elsewhere to help with the swap. Just one car and an owner who wouldnt or couldnt provide any information. I've done thirdgen dash swaps, TPI swaps, TBI swaps, plenty of 4th gen work, I am more than familiar with both cars. I've seen the fitment which can be done with a reworked stock harness, short of completely remaking the harness like I am going to be doing you cant reasonably get a nice factory style fit and finish. Cutting and measuring out 80 pieces of wire, soldering and shrink wrapping 160 connections, is not "reasonable" to me. I am doing this to make the swaps easier for those who dont have years of experience with wiring, or dont have extra hours upon end to put into the harness to get a decent fit. If you have the extra time, or have already done it, good dont buy a harness, I didnt ask for who wants to brag about how they think they have achieved a proper fitment from a stock harness, mainly just those who may be interested in something with a better fitment and very good quality.
Originally posted by kevinc
Since you got a tad insulting about it...here are a few inconvenient facts about what you're proposing.
At the $400+ price point you're in range of Speartech and his competitors. Spears is a retired GM engineer with credentials and industry experience.
As for quality, my degree and 7+ years with GE says my work quality isn't within your ability to question it based on what I've seen thus far.
So...what credentials do you have to back up your statements about the proposed quality of your nonexistent work?
Since you got a tad insulting about it...here are a few inconvenient facts about what you're proposing.
At the $400+ price point you're in range of Speartech and his competitors. Spears is a retired GM engineer with credentials and industry experience.
As for quality, my degree and 7+ years with GE says my work quality isn't within your ability to question it based on what I've seen thus far.
So...what credentials do you have to back up your statements about the proposed quality of your nonexistent work?
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sac, CA
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88,GTA Trans am L98 350tpi
Engine: Edel tes headers,airfoil,Hypertec chip,AFPR,K'N filter,Intrax springs
Transmission: 700r4 Auto ,B&M stall converter , B&M shift kit ,Vette cervo,Alu Driveshaft
z28***** i like your idea but the price is alittle high if you were in the $300 range you would beat out speartech, im still with you though i see your just trying to help out people not beat out the competition. I will be starting my swap soon and ill shoot you an email to see about your price range
Also it is complete plug and play right
How long dose it take for you to make the harness
Do you stand by your work for example it some thing dosent turn on or it wont run or i have 5 million check codes are you willing to make another harness free of charge
Thanks , HavoxRS
Also it is complete plug and play right
How long dose it take for you to make the harness
Do you stand by your work for example it some thing dosent turn on or it wont run or i have 5 million check codes are you willing to make another harness free of charge
Thanks , HavoxRS
#26
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by havoxRS
z28***** i like your idea but the price is alittle high if you were in the $300 range you would beat out speartech, im still with you though i see your just trying to help out people not beat out the competition. I will be starting my swap soon and ill shoot you an email to see about your price range
Also it is complete plug and play right
How long dose it take for you to make the harness
Do you stand by your work for example it some thing dosent turn on or it wont run or i have 5 million check codes are you willing to make another harness free of charge
Thanks , HavoxRS
z28***** i like your idea but the price is alittle high if you were in the $300 range you would beat out speartech, im still with you though i see your just trying to help out people not beat out the competition. I will be starting my swap soon and ill shoot you an email to see about your price range
Also it is complete plug and play right
How long dose it take for you to make the harness
Do you stand by your work for example it some thing dosent turn on or it wont run or i have 5 million check codes are you willing to make another harness free of charge
Thanks , HavoxRS
Jeff (kandied91z) has contacted them about an LS1 complete harness in the form that I am working on, their price for this was around $1300 iirc.
Price isnt changing, is more than reasonable as I posted, and may even be slightly higher.
#27
Supreme Member
Originally posted by Z28*****
I've started with the first LT1 thirdgen swap that got popular on these boards in 1999...blah blah blah....
I've started with the first LT1 thirdgen swap that got popular on these boards in 1999...blah blah blah....
I had planned on staying out of this thread until it was locked or slid to the dusty corner of the archives, but I must stick my head in here.
You know its funny, you act like you were the first one on this board to do an LT1 swap and that we should all bow down to your LT1 swapping genious. First, you were definitely not the first one, I wasn't even. LT1powered85z did it first here that I know of, I was next, followed shortly by you. like kevin says, what makes you so special that we should buy your swiss army go-go-gadget jack of all trades wiring harness that we have yet to see any evidence of it existing? I don't doubt that you do good work, its just interesting to me that you've talked this thing up so freaking much yet, we haven't seen the slightest bit of progress and any shape, form, or fashion. hmm.....
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Houston-katy
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Irocz- Houstons Fastest Street
Engine: 408 LS1 w/ 2 stage
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 3:73,3850 lbs , best of 9.92 @ 138
Originally posted by TexasLT1
like kevin says, what makes you so special that we should buy your swiss army go-go-gadget jack of all trades wiring harness that we have yet to see any evidence of it existing?
like kevin says, what makes you so special that we should buy your swiss army go-go-gadget jack of all trades wiring harness that we have yet to see any evidence of it existing?
That quite possibly has to be the funniest post ive ever seen from TEXASLT1. IMO, I used the painless kit and adapted almost everything for my dash using the stock 86 iroc sensors on some of my ls1. Like tapping and using the spare water port on the passenger side so i can run my dash water temp or adapting the ls1 oil pressure swith for the 3rd gen harness for the dash. I used the painless kit and honestly it was 489 from summit and i wouldnt do it any other way. To me saving a couple dollars and having problems with some harness that was made in some guys garage it not my idea of a good time. Isnt the painless LT1 harness like 300-400?
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Houston-katy
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Irocz- Houstons Fastest Street
Engine: 408 LS1 w/ 2 stage
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 3:73,3850 lbs , best of 9.92 @ 138
where is the option on the poll for " i wouldnt purchase this stuff either way"
#30
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by TexasLT1
I had planned on staying out of this thread until it was locked or slid to the dusty corner of the archives, but I must stick my head in here.
You know its funny, you act like you were the first one on this board to do an LT1 swap and that we should all bow down to your LT1 swapping genious. First, you were definitely not the first one, I wasn't even. LT1powered85z did it first here that I know of, I was next, followed shortly by you. like kevin says, what makes you so special that we should buy your swiss army go-go-gadget jack of all trades wiring harness that we have yet to see any evidence of it existing? I don't doubt that you do good work, its just interesting to me that you've talked this thing up so freaking much yet, we haven't seen the slightest bit of progress and any shape, form, or fashion. hmm.....
I had planned on staying out of this thread until it was locked or slid to the dusty corner of the archives, but I must stick my head in here.
You know its funny, you act like you were the first one on this board to do an LT1 swap and that we should all bow down to your LT1 swapping genious. First, you were definitely not the first one, I wasn't even. LT1powered85z did it first here that I know of, I was next, followed shortly by you. like kevin says, what makes you so special that we should buy your swiss army go-go-gadget jack of all trades wiring harness that we have yet to see any evidence of it existing? I don't doubt that you do good work, its just interesting to me that you've talked this thing up so freaking much yet, we haven't seen the slightest bit of progress and any shape, form, or fashion. hmm.....
Lets see some pictures of your engine bay, from many angles, to see how perfectly your wiring harness fits, c'mon post it up. Whining about someone coming up with a product to better the swap, my goodness what an ***.
I've done the swap with the stock 4th gen harness, with a "painless" harness, done it with a 700R4, a 4L60E and with T56's, in enough cars, and seen enough peoples swaps when done to know its easily possible to build a better harness, starting from scratch which is what most people cant do right off hand, and more than likely also dont have the time for.
#31
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by xtremeirocz
where is the option on the poll for " i wouldnt purchase this stuff either way"
where is the option on the poll for " i wouldnt purchase this stuff either way"
#32
Supreme Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kingston, Tn
Posts: 2,924
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70 posi
It's not that difficult to make, I took some ends from an LT1 dash harness (C230, C220 and the black ignition plug) and soldered, then heatshrinked on one side, took the same color wire and tied it into an end that plugs into the C270 (I believe that's the plug) on the passenger side of the dash harness and never cut one plug off my dash harness, and two wires to the old auto shift wires for the backup lights, it's a total of about 8 wires and could probably fix it with a couple of more to run the low oil light, skipshift light (to the upshift light). This includes running the underhood fusebox for the fans/ac/cruise (I'm planning on adding the 4th gen cruise module later) and could make it for way under $700 bucks, mainly because I can get the 220 and 230 plugs from someone who parts out 4th gens and gets some dash harnesses that are cut up, or damaged. This keeps the original LT1 harness from being hacked up and ends cut off so if I decided down the road to go the 4th gen dash later, it would just plug in and that's it.
#33
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Again, you're talking about cutting and hacking together a harness, and still not even on the same page, I can make the thirdgen harness plug into a 4th gen engine harness if i want, without even modifying the LT1 engine harness, it STILL isnt even near the same thing, sure you can hook up the few wires that connect to the C100 and C230, you still have the computer under the hood, extra sprouts of wiring where they arent needed, and a used spliced together pair of wiring harnesses. I am talking about a complete harness, no reused wires, no solder and heatshrink, no engine bay mounted computer, no wiring routed this way because thats what the 4th gen engine harness allowed. Complete plug in at one end, put the computer in the dash plug in at the other end custom fit, all new wire all new terminals.
Originally posted by Klortho
It's not that difficult to make, I took some ends from an LT1 dash harness (C230, C220 and the black ignition plug) and soldered, then heatshrinked on one side, took the same color wire and tied it into an end that plugs into the C270 (I believe that's the plug) on the passenger side of the dash harness and never cut one plug off my dash harness, and two wires to the old auto shift wires for the backup lights, it's a total of about 8 wires and could probably fix it with a couple of more to run the low oil light, skipshift light (to the upshift light). This includes running the underhood fusebox for the fans/ac/cruise (I'm planning on adding the 4th gen cruise module later) and could make it for way under $700 bucks, mainly because I can get the 220 and 230 plugs from someone who parts out 4th gens and gets some dash harnesses that are cut up, or damaged. This keeps the original LT1 harness from being hacked up and ends cut off so if I decided down the road to go the 4th gen dash later, it would just plug in and that's it.
It's not that difficult to make, I took some ends from an LT1 dash harness (C230, C220 and the black ignition plug) and soldered, then heatshrinked on one side, took the same color wire and tied it into an end that plugs into the C270 (I believe that's the plug) on the passenger side of the dash harness and never cut one plug off my dash harness, and two wires to the old auto shift wires for the backup lights, it's a total of about 8 wires and could probably fix it with a couple of more to run the low oil light, skipshift light (to the upshift light). This includes running the underhood fusebox for the fans/ac/cruise (I'm planning on adding the 4th gen cruise module later) and could make it for way under $700 bucks, mainly because I can get the 220 and 230 plugs from someone who parts out 4th gens and gets some dash harnesses that are cut up, or damaged. This keeps the original LT1 harness from being hacked up and ends cut off so if I decided down the road to go the 4th gen dash later, it would just plug in and that's it.
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Houston-katy
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Irocz- Houstons Fastest Street
Engine: 408 LS1 w/ 2 stage
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 3:73,3850 lbs , best of 9.92 @ 138
Originally posted by Z28*****
That would be the dont bother posting cause you werent asked and keep your hacked harnesses.
That would be the dont bother posting cause you werent asked and keep your hacked harnesses.
hacked harness? i doubt you have any idea what i have or any idea what you are doing
#35
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by xtremeirocz
hacked harness? i doubt you have any idea what i have or any idea what you are doing
hacked harness? i doubt you have any idea what i have or any idea what you are doing
Please educate me, I dont care what you think you have, I HIGHLY doubt it comes close to what a full custom harness can / will.
#36
Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Eastpointe Michigan
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: mini-rammed 350
Transmission: WC T-5
IMHO...After all the money I've spent and(going to spend) putting an LS1 in my 87 ...I'll gladly drop another $500 for a plug and play ,NEW, harness...one less MAJOR headache to me
But thats just me,I'm losing patience in my old age!
Later
Steve
But thats just me,I'm losing patience in my old age!
Later
Steve
#37
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Vereinigten Staaten
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
Originally posted by Z28*****
Nobody else care to show their opinion, or just too lazy to post ?
Nobody else care to show their opinion, or just too lazy to post ?
Originally posted by Z28*****
That would be the dont bother posting cause you werent asked and keep your hacked harnesses.
That would be the dont bother posting cause you werent asked and keep your hacked harnesses.
And as far as my "hacked" harness, whats wrong with a sealed soldered splice? It is, after all, the correct way to repair a wire. There is no voltage drop over the connection and its sealed from the elements. Done correctly, my "hacked" harness performs just as well as your "rebuilt" harness, and with all the convoluted plastic in place, looks identical.
Don't knock our stuff just because we don't post on here and kiss your ***.
Last edited by GMTech; 08-29-2005 at 06:02 PM.
#38
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by GMTech
Make up your damn mind.
And as far as my "hacked" harness, whats wrong with a sealed soldered splice? It is, after all, the correct way to repair a wire. There is no voltage drop over the connection and its sealed from the elements. Done correctly, my "hacked" harness performs just as well as your "rebuilt" harness, and with all the convoluted plastic in place, looks identical.
Don't knock our stuff just because we don't post on here and kiss your ***.
Make up your damn mind.
And as far as my "hacked" harness, whats wrong with a sealed soldered splice? It is, after all, the correct way to repair a wire. There is no voltage drop over the connection and its sealed from the elements. Done correctly, my "hacked" harness performs just as well as your "rebuilt" harness, and with all the convoluted plastic in place, looks identical.
Don't knock our stuff just because we don't post on here and kiss your ***.
#39
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Vereinigten Staaten
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
So your doing all of this work just to move the PCM? The PCM is sealed making it water tight and has sufficient cooling fins so that it can survive in even the harshest underhood climates, not to mention plenty of room for it. So please tell me why I should move it?
My swap has been very reliable and the computer is almost undetectable stashed below the A/C and heater lines. I'm having a hard time figureing out why I should throw down $500+ to hide the PCM I already can't see????
My swap has been very reliable and the computer is almost undetectable stashed below the A/C and heater lines. I'm having a hard time figureing out why I should throw down $500+ to hide the PCM I already can't see????
#41
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tampa, FL, USA
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
I didnt say anyone had to move it, nor is the complete new harness strictly being made to move the pcm, its just one of the benefits of it, with a/c, power steering etc, the engine bay gets cluttered fast, I along with quite a few others im sure would be much happier with the computer in the dash. It also takes quite a bit of time, and effort to rework a stock harness so there arent extra wires that arent needed, extra sections of wire even in loom running about. Even without moving the pcm there are quite a few splices, each one whether anyone wants to admit it or not can be a potential extra item to check if something isnt functioning properly with your car.
Again nobody said a custom harness is or was necessary, the two daily driver cars here in tampa i've swapped are running modified 4th gen harnesses, i've got another about to hit the road which doesnt even have a single cut or splice to the 4th gen engine harness, just a modified 3rd gen engine bay harness that plugs directly into it. The custom harness will simply clean things up, make things much faster, and for those who are either straying away from an LT1 / LS1 due to the wiring, or those who are very time limited, make things much more viable.
Again nobody said a custom harness is or was necessary, the two daily driver cars here in tampa i've swapped are running modified 4th gen harnesses, i've got another about to hit the road which doesnt even have a single cut or splice to the 4th gen engine harness, just a modified 3rd gen engine bay harness that plugs directly into it. The custom harness will simply clean things up, make things much faster, and for those who are either straying away from an LT1 / LS1 due to the wiring, or those who are very time limited, make things much more viable.
Originally posted by GMTech
So your doing all of this work just to move the PCM? The PCM is sealed making it water tight and has sufficient cooling fins so that it can survive in even the harshest underhood climates, not to mention plenty of room for it. So please tell me why I should move it?
My swap has been very reliable and the computer is almost undetectable stashed below the A/C and heater lines. I'm having a hard time figureing out why I should throw down $500+ to hide the PCM I already can't see????
So your doing all of this work just to move the PCM? The PCM is sealed making it water tight and has sufficient cooling fins so that it can survive in even the harshest underhood climates, not to mention plenty of room for it. So please tell me why I should move it?
My swap has been very reliable and the computer is almost undetectable stashed below the A/C and heater lines. I'm having a hard time figureing out why I should throw down $500+ to hide the PCM I already can't see????
#42
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Kansas
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Im seriously considering an LT1/T56 swap come winter 06. The biggest thing that makes me hesitate is the wiring. I would definetly be interested in a "plug and play" wiring harness.
#43
Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Schererville , IN
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
U know, I will give him he had kind of a superiority high card with his harnesses.
But the fact remains he has very valid point.
I have done an LS1 swap with a friend and helped on a couple LT1 swaps.
Done mulitples of TPI swaps from MAF to SD and v6 to TPI cars.
Painless is my current fav harness to use for the price.
I am ASE ceritifed , Jaguar Gold level Tech blah blah blah. Do I have credentials now too? :-) lol
I will admit that working with factory harnesses suck for the most part. Most people arent enthusiast, nor do most mechanics take the time to properly do things over the course of a vehicles life. This leads to damage from work being done, broken connectros and old dry rotted connectors and wiring. So what u end up with when u do a swap is a harness that you already have to repair and splice and/or replace weather pak connectors(priced them lately?). I always willing to help folks out near me with swaps and rewiring. There has been on one occasion that I stated "If u use that harness, I will not work on your vehicle". Was an old tore up harness with years on it.
Unless it came from a low mileage car, you would have to be an idiot to use a harness from a 20 yr old car. There are exceptions to this, obvioulsy some age far more gracefully than others.
I can do wiring and read diagrams and splice wires until my heart is content. Doesnt mean I'm not willing to look at a harness made specifically for my car and the engine I plan on swapping :-)
Especially if his pricing is what he says it could be and the work is quality.
I find many many LT-1's and LS1 drivetrains near me with missing or chopped harnesses. They are cheaper than ones with complete harnesses for a reason. lol There is no way to do a swap and have everythign work without cutting or splicing somehting. It just wont happen. If he can make it for the price he says and a quality piece for the price, then he gets my vote.
I would prefer it under the dash also.
Everything he mentioned about the dash connectors is what I have done in the past. I like to use plugs for connections, but splice when necessary.
To each his own, he will be the one to prove his worth and quality when he makes them, not you, so lets see what he does.
later
Jeremy
PS to everyone here, your not special if u swapped a (fill in engine/trans here) into a (fill in vehicle here). Maybe if you were the first one, but even than, you prolly werent the first one. GM uses all kinds of cars for drivetrain development
But the fact remains he has very valid point.
I have done an LS1 swap with a friend and helped on a couple LT1 swaps.
Done mulitples of TPI swaps from MAF to SD and v6 to TPI cars.
Painless is my current fav harness to use for the price.
I am ASE ceritifed , Jaguar Gold level Tech blah blah blah. Do I have credentials now too? :-) lol
I will admit that working with factory harnesses suck for the most part. Most people arent enthusiast, nor do most mechanics take the time to properly do things over the course of a vehicles life. This leads to damage from work being done, broken connectros and old dry rotted connectors and wiring. So what u end up with when u do a swap is a harness that you already have to repair and splice and/or replace weather pak connectors(priced them lately?). I always willing to help folks out near me with swaps and rewiring. There has been on one occasion that I stated "If u use that harness, I will not work on your vehicle". Was an old tore up harness with years on it.
Unless it came from a low mileage car, you would have to be an idiot to use a harness from a 20 yr old car. There are exceptions to this, obvioulsy some age far more gracefully than others.
I can do wiring and read diagrams and splice wires until my heart is content. Doesnt mean I'm not willing to look at a harness made specifically for my car and the engine I plan on swapping :-)
Especially if his pricing is what he says it could be and the work is quality.
I find many many LT-1's and LS1 drivetrains near me with missing or chopped harnesses. They are cheaper than ones with complete harnesses for a reason. lol There is no way to do a swap and have everythign work without cutting or splicing somehting. It just wont happen. If he can make it for the price he says and a quality piece for the price, then he gets my vote.
I would prefer it under the dash also.
Everything he mentioned about the dash connectors is what I have done in the past. I like to use plugs for connections, but splice when necessary.
To each his own, he will be the one to prove his worth and quality when he makes them, not you, so lets see what he does.
later
Jeremy
PS to everyone here, your not special if u swapped a (fill in engine/trans here) into a (fill in vehicle here). Maybe if you were the first one, but even than, you prolly werent the first one. GM uses all kinds of cars for drivetrain development
Last edited by 3.8TransAM; 09-19-2005 at 05:00 PM.
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Houston-katy
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Irocz- Houstons Fastest Street
Engine: 408 LS1 w/ 2 stage
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 3:73,3850 lbs , best of 9.92 @ 138
I have backed out of this thread for the simple fact that all of this bickering is really counter productive and a waste of bandwidth
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Houston-katy
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Irocz- Houstons Fastest Street
Engine: 408 LS1 w/ 2 stage
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 3:73,3850 lbs , best of 9.92 @ 138
by the way, conversion done, all stock gauges work and everything works great with my 450$ painless even with the ecm mounted in the stock tpi location
#46
Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wanatah, IN
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1990 TA, 1995 Sierra 1500
Engine: 305tpi to LT1 mod, 305 TBI
Transmission: 4L60E with 3000 Stall, 5spd
I am sending out my harness to z28 ***** at the end of this week. I just dont have the knowledge or the time (being a college student) to read diagrams. I am enjoying my LT1 swap and taking my time to keep from being frusterated.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post