After collecting parts and watching all of the LT1 swappers the last few years, my project has begun.

Pulled the motor and trans out last summer and now I'm trying to get my 93 LT1/T56 drivetrain put in.

So far I have the brake pedal out and I am working on installing the new clutch/brake assembly tonight.

Hopefully I'll be up and running within a month! I'll post updates as I get more work done.

 

welcome to the club keep the pics comin!!

 

Well I got my cherry picker fixed (cylinder was shot) and I've got most of the stuff to get started.

I am going to install new motor mounts in the car today or tomorrow, finish installing the master/slave cylinder for the T56 swap, and drop the motor in.

A few questions:

Can I use the top of the motor mounts that are bolted to the LT1 (I have the motor still in the cradle) and just mount them to the bottom mounts that are still in my car? (I'll take pics if no one understands this)

Should I go poly mounts or stock rubber? I'm inclined to go stock rubber since I have hedman long tubes.

The intake gasket looks to need replacing on the LT1. Its leaked oil all over the bellhousing and trans. Should I do this before putting it in the car? Is it difficult to do in the car?

In my attempt to figure out how to drop this thing in without the happy hooker I have thought of two options. Use ratchet straps around the motor and lift the motor with them - or remove the intake and bolt to a chain to the block. Then reinstall the intake with the motor in the car. Any thoughts on that?

Can't think of anything else right now - but I'll be taking LOTS of pictures as I go along and will try and post some!

So far here is my basic plan:

1.Drop motor in car with bellhousing attached. (Trans is already removed from motor) Probably will have headers sitting in engine compartment ready to bolt up as opposed to bolting them to the engine first.

2. Bolt up trans, cut hole for shifter, get trans setup done. K-member and driveshaft following that.

3. Hook up radiator and everything else up. I'm doing A/C bypass pully so no need to worry about AC stuff.

4. Work on harness while waiting for ordered fuel lines or make my own if I'm desperate.

One last question. With long tubes is the stock wire routing ok, or do I need to go with an over the valve cover setup?

Thanks guys!

 

heddmans and t56s? does that work?
I would first cut the hole then bolt the tranny right to the motor and kill two birds with one stone by droppping them in together.
as far as mounts its more a matter of opinion. Im going to take my stockers out and drop in poly soon. Also i would switch the top part as well as its jst as east to be sure it will fit before you lower it in.
Last save yourself some time and backpain and do the gasket out of the car.

 

If the motor came out of an F-body you will have to change the engine mounts on the block and use standard SBC clamshells on the motor. Like dude above said, put the motor and tranny in without the shifter bolted up, and tape up the tranny where the shifter goes, this will make cutting the hole easier. Also, you will need to pull the headers, they will just get in the way and put the in after getting the motor in, it also makes it easier to put the motor mount bolts in.

Are the long tubes setup for angle plug heads? If not you might want to invest in a set for them, it will make changing the plugs a whole lot easier.

 

Something I ran into while installing the long tubes was the knock sensor made hard contact on the header, I just moved the sensor to the other side, problem solved. Of course, I used Hooker LT's so yours may be different. Also, I had a terribly hard time getting those LT's to work. I had to cut off a large portion of the A-arm mount on the passenger side, and I also had to bang up the header a little bit. I also strongly suggest you use solid motor mounts. I did not, and I am afraid that the headers are going to hit against the A-arm mount once the swap is complete. We'll see.

EDIT: I just saw what you asked about the motor mounts. As Klortho said, you will have to use a standard SBC clamshell. When I removed the passenger side LT1 clamshell, I put the SBC clamshell in the exact same bolt holes that I pulled the LT1 shell from. This proved incorrect after several attemts to install the engine. you have to remove the little A/C bracket and use that bolt hole as your third. Illustration below. The three upper case O's are the holes you need to use. This may have come easily to most and I may sound stupid, but this was a problem I had, because the LT1 clamshell used the other lower cas o. I dont know, I wish someone would have told me that, so I'll pass it on.


........................O.......O < this hole
....................o.......O.......

 

klortho said to use your original style mounts LOL
As far as the A/c fitting its mentioned in the lt1 swappers guide.

 

No, No, No, I think you Have me confused with RaGe. lol, I guess it could get confusing. I already did my swap. I was just giving him some more info.

 

LOL hahah ....yup I did, Too many damn rages on this site now days.

 

I love my Hedman mid length and y-pipe setup, d-port headers for a 3rd gen already setup for angle plugs and no problems at all with clearance.

 

klortho what pn are yours??

 

Rageman,

What are the chances 2 guys with the nick of 'rage' own 3rd gens and put LT1s in them?


Progress so far is held up on me putting new head gaskets and intake gaskets on. I removed the drivers side head because the exhaust bolt was broke off in it. I took it to a machine shop the other day to have the bolt removed, and its now ready for pick up.

I'll be taking LOTS of pics soon and posting them... Project is coming along nicely, although it sure hurts the cash flow!

Ended up ordering fuel lines from Scott @ LT1intake... hes in the middle of a move but was nice enough to put some braided steel lines togeather for me... total was $135 shipped - which is more then I wanted to spend but a good deal for nice finished pieces.

I'll be doing the AC bypass and already have the pulley, and plan on putting the harness togeather myself.

Will post back with pics and more details as this project goes.

 

Yeah, when I first joined this forum, I picked "Rage" as my username because that is my username at Cz28.com, but it said it was already taken. You big jerk!

My nickname in High School was "Rage" because I was a hardcore Rage Against the Machine fan. I wore a different Rage shirt almost every day of the week.

Sounds like you are progressing well. Im now done with my swap, but I think my computer is toast, so I have to get another one. Keep us updated.

 

Painted part number 68479

 

I was a big RATM fan too... probably couldn't guess by the username...hahaha

I'm rage889 over at camaroz28.com...

wonder if I could guess the shirts... lets see....

"we support our troops"

"che guevara"

"Evil empire shirt with the super hero on it"

can't rememmber the rest.. I had a few of them too.. went and saw them at least twice... was at a concert @ cobo in detroit for evil empire where a guy fell off the balcony and broke his neck!

a bit off topic maybe?

 

It is off topic, but who cares. I actually didnt have any of those t-shirts. I had "Nuns with Guns", "Jumping Zack" "Emiliano Zapata" and a few others that cant be described really by name. Oh well. I saw them here at the Compaq center in Houston and was going to see them on the Rhyme and Reason tour with the Beastie Boys, but that got cancelled due to Mike D "falling off a bicylcle" or something like that. Gay is what it was. Anyways, as you said we are way off topic.

 

update:

motor and transmission are in. I have a lot left to do, but I am well over the hump.

can't wait to run the car!

you can't see much of it, but the wiring harness is made by z28*****. its a very nicely made piece and seemed to simplify the install. I need to add the wire looms yet though.

 

lookin good mankeepit coming. I have a garage full of new parts i have still got to get mine back together..

 

when i got my hedman 68479's, i didn't like the paint that was on them. i just sanded them down and coated them with high-temp ceramic metallic paint....the y-pipe too. i hope to get started in a week or 2 on my swap...

BTW. a little off subject, but i like "bulls on parade" the best.

 

well... motor is in. wiring harness is all hooked up. over the valve covers wireset installed, computer is in car but not yet mounted....everything is looking good.

I can't get it to start however! I'll be checking all my grounds tongiht, I need to get a strap from the coil to the frame rail and move the other ground to the block instead of the body.

When I go to start the car it doesn't do anything. The guages work, and the temp gauge goes to 260 when I turn on the key, but no noise or anything. I do have 12v at the solnoid, but when I turn on the ignition I don't get 12 volts at the purple wire. I also am unable to get the ECM into diagnostics mode. So at this point I'm thinking ground problem or bad ECM.

More updates soon!

 

looking good, I know the feeling of the headaches that are to come. what headers did you deside to go with????

 

Did you check the starter interupt or the neutral/clutch saftey switchs?

 

I used the coated version of the hedman 68460s. They took a bit of work to install, but turned out fairly decent.

I wired up the clutch anticipate switch up to the old neutral safety switch wiring, which was in the center console connected to the old auto shifter. I used the 2 thickest wires in that wire pack.

 

Check for power before and after each connection you made. depending on the year there might be a vats starter relay up under the dash.