The '82 Camaro the 2000 LS1/T56 is going into has a long driveshaft, so I'll either have to get it shortened, get a different one, have a new one fabricated, or, I was wondering if the aluminum driveshafts are tough enough to handle the power/shock abuse this thing will put out.

 

The driveshaft length for the LS1/T56 should be the exact same as a later model 3rd gen with a 700R4 or T5. All of the 4th gens had aluminum driveshafts from the factory. I'm running one from a 4th gen in my GTA with the LT1 and should work with your combo.

 

I also have an LS1/T56 combo and I'm using the aluminum dirveshaft with no problems.

 

I knew the T56 was the same length as the later 3rd gens, but this is an '82 with TH200C. This one does shake quite a bit when you get above 55 MPH. That's not a lot of fun.

I didn't know all 4th gens had aluminum driveshafts. Even the V6's? I've seen plenty for sale, and not too bad on price, that helps explain why. Hmmm, maybe I should just go ahead and get one for #1 while I'm at it - why settle for one when you can get two at twice the price?

 

I don't believe all the 4th gens had aluminum shafts. I took the rear end and shaft out of a 1995 Z-28. It was bigger than my 1991's shaft but it definitely was not aluminum. I was sad. :-(

 

correct. not all the 4th gen ls1 cars came with them. the higher geared autos and all the 6 speeds did... the 2.73 cars came steel thogh

 

All of the LS1 cars had aluminum driveshafts. The V6 cars had steel.

I've taken several 2.73 cars apart that had aluminum driveshafts.

 

I dont know what king of power your puttin out but there are alot of LS1 cars putting out well over 500 RWHP with the stock aluminum driveshafts. I have an aluminum driveshaft in mine as well but its a PST unit rated at 1200HP.

 

Not a whole heap of power to start off. Just exhaust upgrades and EGR/AIR delete for now. But, I do plan on running it at the track with upgraded 10-bolt, 4.10's, and DOT slicks.

 

I'm runnin the PST shaft too. 1200 hp rating got it from Exotic Performance Plus. Great price and lifetime guarantee

 

One for each car on the way. One 3rd gen (it'll go into the auto car), one 4th gen.

 

Dynotecheng is running a $299. special on complete aluminum drive shafts (yoke+u joint inc.) till Jan 1, 08. Their $299 special is for vehicles making up to 400rwhp.

They are making this offer available as part of their car show special, you should mention that. They had a booth at the summer rod nationals in Louisville, KY where they were advertising this product at a great price.

Their web site is http://www.dynotecheng.com

Call them and ask for Jim Villalpando 1-800-633-5559.

BTW, the price gets it right to your door!

 

and ive taken several 2.73 cars apart that had steel ones also... also, a friend bought a showroom 00 ls1 auto car that had a steel one.

 

Installed one in Berlinetta #1 today.

All three side-by-side. The '86 steel is 2.5", the '91 aluminum is 2.75", and the '01 aluminum is 3"

The '01 tube is actually shorter than the other two because the yokes are bigger/longer.

It definitely is smoother at highway speed with the aluminum. I had heard that, but wasn't going to set myself up for disappointment.

 

Update 2 years later:

How's that old saying go? "Film at 11:00," I believe it is.

 

Mine's an '82 and had a TH200C in it. I had to add an extra crossmember mounting hole onto each frame rail (factory location for the TH700/R4 crossmember) but otherwise the LS1 and T56 went in without any additional effort and uses a standard-length driveshaft.

I had a custom 3.5" OD aluminum shaft fabricated a year or so after the LS1 swap, and until that time I ran the donor TA's old aluminum shaft without issues.

 

After 8 passes, at the starting line for #9, heard a bit of a noise and the car wasn't moving.

First look:



You saw the before picture above, here's the after:



The collateral damage wasn't too bad. Kissed the fuel line, a bit of a ding in the floor, a little kink in the park brake cable.



When I unbolted the back piece, I noticed one side of the u-joint was loose in the yoke. Apparently the strap stretched. No clue if it was that way before the big bang, or was a result of it (I'm guessing it was that way). In this combined pic, I had the stretched strap on the bottom in the top photo, and top in the bottom photo:



Tomorrow, to the driveline shop with the remaining pieces, and the original shaft from the '86 donor car (formerly installed in Berlinetta #1), to see what they think.

 

My donor car came with an aluminum DS, and I'm starting to consider selling it, this is the third or forth one I've seen go at not much higher than stock power levels.

 

Well, I said everything I was going to do (see post #9), yet no one said, "Don't do it!"

The next one will be able to take a lot more than what I'll ever give it. I'm not out there on the next weakest link hunt, but the 10-bolt, even with the upgrades, is probably it.

Oh, the track scale says it was 3450 lbs going down the track.

 

Im still running my stock alum shaft. But I dont run slicks, and I dont hook from a dig haha. When/if I get slicks or even DRs for this thing, and make it to a prepped track, Ill be upgrading to a Top Gun shaft or something steel. Im already lugging that heavy 12 bolt around behind the car...whats some more rotating mass added to the equation to gain extra strength haha.

J.

 

Wow.

I guess I'll be adding a driveshaft to my never ending list of crap that I need for this swap.

 

Make sure "Driveshaft loop" is on the list.

 

Hmm ugly. lots of twisted up stock driveshafts out there at least you didnt bash and smash up everything. Looks like your 60' was about to improve dramatically though

Anyways Im very pleased with my PST shaft from EPP. It was the best deal out there when i bought it and it carries a lifetime warranty. To my knowledge no one has broken one yet although someone did twist up the forged spicer yoke on one iirc.

 

Picked up the new driveshaft today. Just a tick under $300, all new, 3" x .083" steel tube, 1350 yoke, u-joints, even the pinion yoke u-joint straps. As he handed it to me, he said, "This is over-kill, but you'll never need to replace it." Several of the stick shift guys came over after my "event" and told me their shaft was made by this shop - that's a pretty good endorsement.

Need to pack tonight for a business trip tomorrow, not sure if I'll get it installed tonight or not.

Forgot to say, the shop guessed the u-joint strap stretched when the driveshaft broke, not before. Who knows. . .

 

No more aluminum:



Top, 2001 LS1 f-body aluminum driveshaft. Middle, new steel driveshaft. Bottom, stock '86 TH700 steel driveshaft.

 

I've been debating running an aluminum shaft in my car when I remove the blower. I'll have about 475hp, but I'm 400 lbs lighter than a 4th gen and won't be running at the track.

 

I did a ls1 swap as well and did auto tranny with stock 4th gen rear end out of a 99 z28 i also am having this shaking you are talking about. How can i fix this issue and what will happen if i keep running it like that?

Any if would help alot thanks.

-Mike

 

It was the stock '82 TH200C steel driveshaft that shook.

I think. It may have been the tires.

 

I never read post 9, we didn't PM about driveshafts until later. To everyone else, I specced this shaft for kid, because I used to do driveshafts for a living.

 

Indeed.

And, the shop said the same thing without me saying anything other than, "I don't want this one to break."

 

I guess we have a concensus on what everyone needs for a serious performance driveshaft. Again, sorry for never reading post 9.

 

It was almost a year before you joined!!!!

 

true, but I was here, and we were quasi-friends, before you broke the aluminum shaft.
To everyone:
Guys, I do alot more posting and taking credit now, but I'm not trying to hog any glory. I'm not typing these things to look great, I'm trying to offer as much help as I can while I still can. I used to play dumb, to avoid making enemies, but now it doesn't matter.

 

I also busted two of the stock 4th gen driveshafts several years ago. They wouldn't take a good 60' launch without twisting Did yours have the xmas paper cardboard tube inside as mine did?

 

Post #17.

 

this is reassuring. I just installed an aluminum shaft from an 87 Iroc last week. I think I'll hold onto my steel one for a bit haha.

 

When did the V8 f-car crowd get the idea that aluminum driveshafts are desirable? For the V6 guys, yes. I've never wanted aluminum behind a V8, the extra power is available to turn the extra weight of safe steel. That's part of what the 2 extra cylinders are for.

 

From the factory, I guess.

You can get an aluminum shaft strong enough to handle V8 power. Carbon fiber if you like. But, for strength for the money, a steel shaft is hard to beat.

 

I read something about the larger diameter of aluminum vs the smaller diameter of steel driveshafts and the theory was the increased centrifugal force from the larger diameter made the rotational weight savings small.

 

are the stock ls1 driveshafts stronger than the thirdgen aluminum shafts? this is the only thing i don't have upgraded in my car. i'm still running a stock thirdgen 1le shaft. my car has been 1.56 60' several times on the foot brake with about 100less hp than i'm going to be running. i'm also adding a transbrake. any takers on how long it'll last?

 

If you sell it before you kill it, it'll half pay for a new shaft like five7kid's.

 

honestly, my driveshaft has been beat on alot, and has some light grooves in it from an ebrake cable dragging on it, and a wierd conversion u-joint in it for a 1310 yoke on my 9". if this thing brought in $75 i'd be doing good...

 

Id upgrade pretty soon. Good insurance for your fuel lines and floors

 

What are you guys doing for a driveshaft loop for the 3" driveshafts? I have the stock steel one right now with a Lakewood Driveshaft loop, and even that has slight signs of rubbing. I'm hoping to this year buy a new 3" alum driveshaft to reduce a bit of weight (not a GM one after finding this and another thread with similar results).

 

i run the lakewood universal loop, it's probably at least 5" in diameter. Just do some cutting and welding to put it in the same holes as a camaro one.

 

I'm running a Jegster 3rd gen f-body loop in both cars, both of which have 3" DOM driveshafts. No problems.

 

So were you running a stock motor when you did that 57kid?

I plan on running my stock 3rd gen Aluminum one but I'll have an automatic and street tires.

 

Stock LS1 with LS6 intake, long tube headers, free-flowing air inlet, 4.10 gears.

 

That makes me reconsider my previous statement.

 

Forgot to mention: LS7 clutch/flywheel, sticky tires.

Stock tune, launching at 2500 RPMs (dumping the clutch), shifting at 6000.