Hey guys,

I'm just about ready to hang the new pedals, when I realized that I don't have the "clutch anticipate switch" (or whatever it's called) that's needed with the new T-56. Given the fact that I'll be using an '07 or '08 truck ECM program, does anyone have a good idea of what switch will work? (AFAIK, it's just a momentary-on or momentary-off switch that either cuts or enables current through the switch, depending on pedal position - is that correct??)

I'll more-than-likely be using the stock 3rdgen pedals, so my initial thought was to use a 3rdgen switch, since I know it would fit the bracket assembly - but I don't know if there is any difference between that & the newer type. If the 3rdgen unit won't work, then what about one from an '02 F-body? Maybe an '06 GTO or an '07 or '08 Vette (since those are a lot closer to the model year of the ECM programming)?

My next question is this - since I'll need to drill the hole for the clutch master cylinder anyway, it seems to me that relocating the stud on the 3rdgen clutch pedal arm is not strictly necessary, as long as that position is taken into account when drilling that hole. Is that correct, or is there something that I'm not thinking about here (I don't have the master cyl yet)...?

Finally, does anyone have a source for new pedal pads? The 3rdgen pedals that I bought are a bit used (& show it), they look even worse next to the brand-new DBW accelerator pedal that I just got...

Thanks guys.

 

Hey man... Youre at the fun part

For the switch. Are you hooking it up just to be able to use cruise? I dont have a clutch anticipate switch...neither did the 4th gen that I got the pedals from. That was a M6 swap car though... Im not sure you definetly need the switch. However... The thirdgen switch should work in the same fashion. On both pedal sets, the switch is pressed when the pedal is up. Now...You'll have to look at the wiring diagram of a thirdgen and see if that switch is normally open or normally closed. Im thinking its normally open. And when you hit the clutch, you are either grounding a PCM pin, or giving it 12v. Im gonna go with grounding for the newer PCM...but dont take my word on that.

Just look at your wiring diagrams and see if the switch in the 3rd gen and the one in the 4th gen are doing the same thing. If they are....you are home free. If they arent...well Im willing to bet you can make a 4th gen switch work. I think they are smaller in diameter, but you can make it work.

FWIW...I didnt relocate the stud on my pedals. The throw seems long enough, and seems to be on a good path of travel. I have an adjustable master cylinder...so Im able to taylor that alittle bit also...

For the pedal pads... I got mine from advance auto. They were like $3-$6 a piece for the brake/clutch. I think autozone had them listed for about the same price. If you dont want to go to them...moderndaymuscle.com has them too.

Good luck! I hate this part of the swap. By far my least favorite part.

J.

 

Hmm my third gen pedals had no anticipate switch at all? Odd there is so many differences amongst these cars. Anyways the good news is I still dont have mine hooked up and it works fine so dont lose sleep over it. I did not relocate my pin either and all good here as far as clutch release goes. No clue where to get new pedal pads but I have a really clean set of fourth gen pedals with mint rubber pads if you want to go that route. $50.00 plus shipping

 

4th gen pedal pads wont work unfortunetly. The 3rd gens have a small clutch pad and a larger brake pad where as the 4th gen sets have more equal, or exactly equal pads. Atleast thats how my sets where.... You'll probably have to order the pads from advance...but they can have em next day so no biggie. Actually I have the part numbers sitting right here. Brake = 20721 and Clutch = 20717. Those numbers should be good at autozone, advance and probably others.

EDIT: Nevermind...Cam I thought you were offering 4th gen pedal pads...then I thought, $50?? Cam doesnt seem like an unreasonable guy but $50 for pads?? hehe. Too early for me to be reading

I was under the impression that the clutch anticipate switch was only for cruise. So the cruise would disengage after pushing the pedal. But I cant for the life of me figure out why you'd need the switch without it.

Right now, Im trying to set my pedals up so that:
A) when the clutch is down, its pushing the "clutch safety switch" more. Right now its just tickling it. Its working...but I want it to push all the way.

B) I want my clutch pedal to bottom out before the master cylinder. Well...the only way for me to do that is to set the pedal lower than the brake. I like them even for the most part. So I think Im going to build a piece of flat bar to bolt under the pedal to act as a stop. Maybe bolt off the master cylinder bolt. Gotta look at it still. Again...another thing I like about the adjustable master cylinder. Gives you more range of motion for adjusting things.

J.