Finally got some time in the garage, got the old diff and gas tank pulled.

Now, I'm still unclear on some things (don't let my name on the LS1 swap sticky fool you - I didn't generate any of that information).

I've got an LS1 tank et al. The seller put a broken pump/pickup in the tank and tried to pawn that off on me, I called him on it and he sent another pump/pickup. So, I have some extra parts. Good thing, the "unbroken" pickup has a squirrelly fuel level sensor while the broken one seems to operate smoothly, so I'll be switching those. I'm using an aftermarket gage panel, but it has a 0-90 ohm gas gage, so I planned on replacing it with a programmable. The digital are about $25 less than the analog, any experience with either of these?

I wasn't going to run the evap to the engine, as I understood if you just left it open it would provide the tank vent and fuel vapor absorption functions - did I get that wrong? I haven't mounted the tank back in yet, so now would be the time to address that. I assume a filter would be appropriate for the canister vent if I don't run it to the engine.

The fuel pickup has two strainer socks - one on the outside of the bucket and one inside on the pump. I can't find these as replacement parts - have you seen a source for them?

I've got the fuel line female disconnect to AN fitting adapters, but I haven't seen male disconnect adapters - any ideas on that? I thought I'd just use the factory LS1 fuel line and adapt it to the car's fuel line, but unless I can find a male disconnect adapter, I'll have to find a junkyard fuel line (junk yard trips are a major time investment for me - there aren't any close, if you can believe that).

The LS1 engine harness was disconnected from the car, so I didn't get the vehicle-side connectors. In the wiring discussions I've read, I keep hearing about splicing the engine harness into the vehicle harness - are you cutting the engine side connector and splicing the wires into the vehicle, or did you get a vehicle side connector/harness and splice those wires into the vehicle harness? I have a swap fuse/relay box that should aid in the process, but I need to splice its harness into something.

The gauge panel has a mechanical speedometer - I haven't decided yet whether to get a cable drive box, or an electronic speedometer. I don't like digital speedometers, so analog is the only option. An electronic speedo costs about the same as a drive box, but I'm not familiar with the T56 VSS output and compatibility with an aftermarket electronic. Any insight? I'm leaning toward the aftermarket electronic.

And, aftermarket tach and the LS1 output - same issues as using a factory tach?

I think that's all for now.

 

Hey! Glad to see that you're able to start spinning wrenches again!! (I might be able to get back to my project this week as well - I finally have my garage about 95% insulated, will finish that today, & hope to finish the 2 new electrical circuits as well!)

Don't know anything about the LSx gas tank swap, so I'll have to skip over that, but...

Yeah, I hear ya - even having a couple of 'em fairly close to me, it always seemed to kill a good part of my day when I had to go look for something. It's worth it in the end, but geez, it's been REALLY frustrating to have to take all that time when I'd MUCH rather be making progress on my swap...

Here's what I'm doing, based on my understanding of how others have done it - I've bought a new harness for my L92 (because I got tired of hearing the laughter when I'd call junkyards for L92 parts ) & removed the original TPI harness from the car. As I understand it, I will primarily be using the new engine harness for roughly 95% of the under-hood stuff, & pretty much just using the bulkhead connector from the original TPI harness so that I can tie the new harness into the rest of the existing wiring.

I'm pretty confident that I'll be able to eliminate all of the wiring that goes into the passenger-side fender, around the hinge area to the old ECM, since the new harness has all of that already. Not sure where I'm going to mount my ECM, but given the fact that it has all of those cooling fins on it (& could therefore generate a bit of heat), I'm thinking that I'll likely rig up something that's pretty well isolated from vibration, & have it under the hood.

(If my understanding is incorrect in any way here, I'd certainly appreciate a correction!)

My understanding is that the VSS output is compatible with the later-model 3rdgen electronic speedometers (started in '89 in the Firebirds, I think it was '90 for Camaros), so my best guess is that you shouldn't have any trouble w/ the aftermarket electronic option.

Here's where you run into a bit of an oddity - it seems (from what I've read recently on LS1Tech) that the output going into the tach is a 4-cyl. signal:

I just did a search for "tach 4" (since I remembered the bit about the 4-cyl output) in the 'Conversions & Hybrids' forum & got several results. Several people also mention putting a resistor in-line, but from what I've read, that's not always necessary.

Hope this helps a bit...

 

That does help. Sounds like you have bare wire ends on your L92 engine harness to connect to the car, correct?

I remember the 4-cyl tach output discussion, didn't think about the aftermarket tach being switchable. I bought the gauge panel off of a tech member, he didn't include any instructions (and wasn't completely truthful about the panel such as gage brand, and didn't include little details like the gauge lights, either). Looking at it now I see a "cyl" switch on the back; it's a push button, so I assume I'll need to push it until the RPMs match.

I need some fuel tubing to replace the factory plastic stuff before I can mount the tank back in. I suppose I'll wire the vapor canister just so I don't have to drop the tank again if I need to hook that stuff up. I'm thinking I should just go ahead and attach the recovery line - the '82 line is already there, it's just a matter of adapting it. Rubber hose should do the job there. The system has been deleted from the PCM, but it can be programmed back in.

Oh, forgot one more question: For cars that didn't have an in-tank electric pump, did you route the wires inside along with the fuel gauge wires, or just run them down the chassis? Along the chassis would be a lot easier.

 

Well, no, every wire on the new harness is terminated into a connector. I'll either have to buy the corresponding connectors, or snip the existing connectors off of the new harness & solder the matching wires from the old harness to the wires I've cut.

Considering the fact that several yrs ago I spent about 3 yrs building military- and space-certified electronics & the fact that heat-shrink is a LOT cheaper & quicker than buying new connectors, I'm thinking that I'll just "snip, strip & solder". (I'll just need to work to try to keep it as clean-looking/unobtrusive as I can...)

I thought of one other thing since my last post - Obviously, things like the connectors to the existing heater box, wiper motor, etc. will still be used from the original harness.

Sounds reasonable.

That sounds like the best way to approach it to me - having to re-do stuff is distinctly irritating to me. FWIW, I think that I will have a bit of excess EFI-rated rubber hose (in 3/8" & 5/16" sizes), & I KNOW that I have some extra EFI-type hose clamps (brand new). If your schedule allows, you could either swing by my place or we might be able to meet somewhere, should save you a couple bucks...

 

Hey glad to hear you are getting back to work on her. Ill put a couple cents in this pot to see if I can help ya.

On the gas gauge. If you are going to leave the LS1 sending unit in the tank, the only way to go in my opinoin is the full sweep electric programmable gauge. Its alittle pricey, but it will give you the most accurate indication when using the LS1 sender. Its what Im using. It works well because you tell it what Empty is, and what Full is. Then it learns the sweep. If you want to swap the sender in the tank over to 0-90, there are some methods for doing that also.

You might as well forget about running the EVAP up to the motor at this point. As far as I know, there is no way to have the EVAP function properly the way it does in a factory LS car. I just left my EVAP hose discronnected back by the tank. I havent seen any ill effects as of yet. I couldnt really ever find any good definitive info about the EVAP. So far so good. I dont smell anything weird and my tank doesnt seem to build pressure.

Not sure on the fuel pump socks...sorry.

Not sure exactly what you are asking about the fuel disconnect fittings. I think you are saying you have the female adapter, that would snap on to the the fuel rail, then have an -AN line come off it. There is no "male" side of thise type of fitting. If you need to make a connection like that, Ide go with a non-disconnect set up. Just use -an to -an. But maybe Im not clear on what exactly you are trying to do. I ended up using the 4th gen fuel lines. Had to modify them slightly, but they come up in the engine bay just like they did in a 4th gen. I was using the factory LS1 "soft line", but I ditched that for a braided line with the -an to quick disconnect fittings on it. Been working perfect for a few years now.

Wiring... Ok. Im not gonna be a huge help here. But if you just have the LS1 engine harness, you will need to splice some wires. Basically give the things that need power power, and the things that need ground ground. Then there are a few places that you need to add relays and what not. You are using aftermarket gauges, which will be a decent help. Because you can hook them up independent of the engine wiring.

What I did, and what I feel is probably the easiest route to take, is to use the 4th gen fuse blocks and wiring. My set up is completely plug and play. The only wires I really needed to mess with was wires back to the fuel tank. Thats it. The rest is self contained. And the best part, all I needed to do was add power to the fuse blocks/power center. Thats it. All the relays are there, fuses are there, and it all works just like it did from the factory. Thats why Im not going to be much help... I did it alittle different than some.

Speedometer... If you are thinking about getting an aftermarket programmable speedo...do it. The autometer programmable works perfect with the factory T56 speed sensor. I tapped right into it, programmed the speedo per the instructions, and its been good to go. Its sort of like the fuel gauge. You tell it when youve driven two miles from a dead stop, and viola. Its good to go. Im running all autometer gauges. Didnt want to mess with the stock ones at all, and Im very glad I did.

Finally, the tach. As was already stated, you need a tach that works with a 4cyl signal. All the autometer tachs have jumpers that allow you to switch to 4cyl mode. Do that, and you are good to go with the tach.

Hope all that rambling helped. I repeated some things that V8Rumble stated. Just figured Ide reinforce some of his info...

Good luck and if you run into more questions post em up!

J.

 

I found instructions to the tach on line (duh). It will handle most any cylinder configuration.

The speedometer I have all but ordered is the Auto Meter 4488. The instructions say exactly what you say. Now I just need to find a calibrated 2-mile stretch. . .

I'm going to do all hard fuel line up to the engine. Got to keep the rubber line down for the track. I was thinking I'd keep the flex line from the factory on the fuel rail, but sounds like I need factory line to do that. I suppose I could splice a piece of factory line to the '82 line if I can't find a complete 4th gen line. Or, fab up a piece of steel braided to hook to the fuel rail.

The oil pressure gauge is mechanical, so I'll do copper line for it. The track doesn't like plastic line.

I have an engine swap power/relay/fuse center, sounds like it will take the place of the 4th gen fuse box just fine. Sounds like I need to find vehicle-side connectors, or cut off the engine harness connectors.

Guess I'll have to decide between the programmable full-sweep fuel gauge and the programmable digital. I suppose full-sweep would keep with the theme better. It just costs more.

Thanks for the help. It's much appreciated.

 

I'm down here in boat country (Florida). A little while back there was a newspaper story about boat folk, and their open vented tanks, having trouble with ethanol going to jelly in the fuel systems. Seems filters and other stuff are gumming up.
It got my attention. I am going to try to hook up the EVAP on my LS1 (when I get that far). I got a C5 Evap cannister. Looks cute in the picture. Big sucka, oh well.
Just so you hear the story.

 

The problem with running a functioning evap system on an LS1 is controlling the system. The solenoid has to vent and know when to vent.

On the LS1, the PCM tells the solenoid when to vent pressure into the motor. If you do a search for me here and over on tech, you'll see the issues with having the LS1 PCM work the evap system. Basically, in a nutshell, it has to do with the PCM using the fuel level. You cant have the LS1 PCM use the fuel level date as well as a gauge. Thats why the LS1's fuel gauge is serial data from the PCM, not straight info from the sender like on older cars.

If you know of a way to operate the EVAP system by itself, or can figure out how to trick the LS1 PCM into working it without the tank leven signal, you'll probably be one of the first.

Im talking functioning evap system..not just venting the tank to the intake somehow.

J.

 

Okay, I remember that discussion now. 4th gen instrument panel isn't in my foreseeable future.

I went ahead and ordered a bunch of stuff, including speedometer, analog programmable fuel gauge, plumbing stuff.

I still need to figure out something for the fuel filter. My car doesn't have anything back there, no bracket, the lines don't run to the right place, etc. A set of 4th gen lines might help here.

Ditto with the engine harness to chassis connectors.

 

If you want to use the 4th gen lines, you'll need to cut out a section of the line up near the front and use a compression fitting to join it back together. Its not hard. Thats how i've been running it for over 2 years now, with no troubles what so ever.

Either that, or you'll have to come up with something from scratch using the 4th gen design or the corvette design.

J.

 

i know some people didnt like my solution, but its been working great for months now. (3/8" everywhere) Efi rubber line down from the tank to a vette filter / regulator tucked away above the rearend, to hard lines going into the engine bay, and efi rubber line up to the rail. Fittings were dorman replacement quick connect fittings that i picked up for like 7 bucks a pop. from tank to rail including filter /regulator was like 110 bucks. All picked up from the local advance auto.

 

macdaddy what tank are you running? The LS1 tank? It sounds like you are...just checking.

Your solution sounds fine to me... You want to try to keep your lengths of rubber hose down. Which it sounds like you did by running hard line from the tank forward. I see nothing wrong with that. I would have tried to keep the lines off the tank factory. I.E. no hose clamps. But that sometimes isnt possible depending on what youre doing. Not sure exactly how you took care of all of it back by the tank...but if it works, it work! Keep your eyes on that fuel line for cracking and bulging and Ide say you'll be fine for awhile with it!


J.

 

I bought my tank from eBay. The lines and wiring had been cut. Wires no big deal, I don't have mating connectors, anyway. Would have been nice if they hadn't cut the lines, but I'm not sure where the plastic connects next on the car.

Yes, need to limit the amount of rubber line per NHRA rules (and I intend to run the car at the track). Solid lines from the pump outlet made more sense to me. No problem with the factory flex line, though, and I would prefer to avoid the hassle of fabricating steel braided line.

 

I ended up using a stock carb third gen tank with a new sending assembly in it and a walbro 255l pump. hose fittings were double g clamped on each. i have maybe 3 feet of rubber hose total for the feed and return from the vette regulator.

I didnt think of NHRA compliance in that because the track we visit has a pretty lenient tech for cars that can drive up to the gate

 

Perhaps, but if you ever want to go to some place that's a little more thorough, 12" total is all you're allowed to have.

Admittedly, the chance of them looking under the car is pretty slim. And, I don't believe return line counts (if it does, Berlinetta #1 has been illegal since 1999. . .!).

 

I didnt read all of this as time is short these days but I'd avoid using ANY of that regular rubber fuel line its such a big risk imo and really not nec. Get some aeroquip for the little bit you need and use flare fittings and sleep easy my man. I've seen one too many burnt up cars at the bone yard from fuel line fires it would be a shame to lose all that hard work for 50 bucks difference ( at worst )

Anyways glad your back onto the build up man

 

So on the wiring, I'm taking it that the C100 plug was cut off on the passenger side of the donor harness? What I did (and yes, it's an LT1 but same premise) with the underhood fuseblock, I tied in the FI, Ignition, PCM and a few other fuses into the stock harness inside the car and then ran the harness from the LT1 fusebox across the car and tied it in on the passenger side to the LT1 harness using the '95 C100 connector (the big one that has the injector/ignition and fan wires)

 

Mine will be hard line from the pump outlet to the flex line going to the engine.

I was thinking last night that since I'll have to modify the stock line extensively, I might as well run all new line. I'm using aluminum (love the stuff, easy to form, flare, and route), and I can take it where I want it instead of being limited to the stock configuration. I'll probably end up fabricating a steel braided line for the last connection to the engine. I'll put splices back by the tank where the factory connected the tank lines to the chassis lines to make it easier to remove the tank if necessary. And, fab up an in-line filter somewhere near the stock location.
----------
No, the two engine connectors were unscrewed and pulled apart. I just have the engine harness side of the connectors.

The wires that were cut were the fuel tank wires. I got that from a different place than the engine/trans.

 

Correctomundo

I'm not certain what your asking for here but I think you want a male adapter to go one the sender to hardline yes? If so in one of the fuel system sticky links theres a pic and a pn for exactly such an item. If not please asplain better LOL

I was in the exact same boat so I bought the chassis side of the 5 plugs and after all was said and done? Complete waste of time and money. The plugs were waaaaaay to big and bulky to allow the HVAC box back because they land right in that area and I mounted the PCM under dash alla MrDude1 style. I ended up cutting out all of the plugs anyways and iirc on one of the plugs there was only one splice and 2 on another so not really helpful to have em.

Autometer pro comp here and VERY pleased. Accurate and durable it has six seasons on it now ( previous t56 swap )

Wire for 4cyl and you MIGHT need to add a booster to make the tach work. Wire it up as the instructions say but use the 4 cyl input for the tach and if it dont work run a 12V+ feed into the signal line with a 4K iirc resistor to boost the signal. Mines boosted and 2 seasons no troubles.

 

The tach (and all the gauges I got with the panel) are Equus. The instructions indicate it is supposed to work with distributorless ignitions. So, we'll see.

The fuel adapter I'm looking for is what would mimic the factory hard line so I can use the factory flex line to the fuel rail. In other words, new hard fuel line up the chassis to the engine compartment, with an end on it that will plug into the engine flex line. All I see in the links are female adapters, like what is on the flex line; one that adapts to AN, the other has a hose barb end. Maybe I'm just blind, but I don't see anything that looks like the male hard line end.

 

Yeah the tach should work so long as it takes 4cyl input. As for the line I used part of a stock GM line that came from some random GM car that i bought at a flea market and know what? I bought 2 I just cut the end off and used a compression fitting to the hard line below to make it work. You can see the piece here

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...gine_compt.jpg

If you cant find one I paid 10 bucks for the line if you want my extra one its yours for the ten plus shipping

 

If you're talking about one of the stock Saginaw fittings from an EFI car, I have at least one (& I think it's actually two) that's just lying around here doing nothing. Same offer goes as above - it's yours if we can figure out a way to be in the same place @ the same time...

 

From the fourth fuel link in the STICKY....

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=558819

 

That's what I was looking at. All I see are female with AN or hose barb on the other end.

 

Well, first unwelcome surprise. For some reason I thought the return was 5/16", found out it's 3/8". So, now I'm short one AN adapter fitting. And, I've already sent in my Summit order.

Oh, well, guess I'll have to look locally.

In the department of corrections, not sure what I was thinking with my questions about the engine-to-chassis harnesses. I guess I had the PCM connectors stuck in my brain. There are 6 connectors total, two that are bundled together with a firewall grommet on the bundle, the others out of another bundle including one single-wire connector. Guess I got all worked up about nothing.

Still need to figure out a place to mount the PCM. I'm sticking with AC, so routing the harness there with the PCM under the dash isn't as easy. It'll probably end up on the passenger side of the engine compartment somewhere.

 

Odd... Mines 5/16" return but I have a V6 tank so? Dunno man

 

I've been spending the last hour or so searching. I'm learning that they're called "Saginaw", "push-on", etc.

Every site that talked about them said supply was 3/8" and return was 5/16". Must not apply to LS1's.

 

I have no idea on the LS1-style return, but that IS true of the TPI feed/return lines...

 

Pretty sure all of my "Supply" lines are 3/8". Im also almost sure my return lines back by the "T" are 3/8". The EVAP line that I had at one point from the 4th gen was 5/16".

I didnt modify or build anything for the return system though, so Im just going off of memory from messing around with it.

J.

 

I quickly read this thread (I don't have a lot of time), and I'll try to pitch in my experiences... they might help.

First off, purchase a Helm (makers of OEM manuals) manual for your year/model 3rd gen, and then the year/model LS1 that you're using (usually comes as a three-volume set). It'll help enormously in the long run. Sure, the wiring is available on various forums, but if you want to do it right (lengthen harnesses with correct gage wire, study your circuits, etc.) then buy the manuals, period.

My tank-side fuel lines are 5/16", 5/16" and 3/8" (vent/return/supply, respectively), and I have a '02 LS1 setup. I rebuilt the complete fuel system to be LS1-style (three lines out from the tank, two to the engine) and used new Summit Racing 3/8 & 5/16 25' coiled aluminum fuel line. On a stock, LS1 returnless-type system, the 5/16" line is a vent line straight from the tank to engine. The other 5/16" 3/8" combo does this: the 3/8" from the tank hits a filter, then sends 3/8" to the rail; however, right after the filter a 5/16" branches off that 3/8" line and goes back to the tank (the return). Hence, a "returnless" system, even though there is a 5/16" line going to the engine (vent). Look at a standard LS1 fuel line setup to understand this more. The male fitting you're looking for so that you can connect to the fuel rail is a GM Push-connect fitting. I had a tough time finding the male ends, so I purchased a Mastercool #71300 and made my own. 'nuff said.

I also did the fuel pump hotwire modification (similar to what Racetronix sells), so you might want to look into that.

As far as a 0-90 ohm fuel tank sender, I posted a tutorial on how to modify the current LS1 sender some time ago, but then someone found a factory GM piece that snapped in and replaced the 50-270 ohm LS1 sender. Far better/more reliable than modifying the stock sender. It's a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix (non-supercharged 3.8L, before vin #238198) part, GM #25319676.

It depends on how much work you are willing to do. I'll give you a hint... I used Vol. 2 & Vol. 3 of the LS1 Helm manuals extensively. Don't forget to purchase quality heat shrink tubing (3M is good) and wire.

Regarding the Tach wireup, same as Cam here. I boosted my tach with a 5.6K Ohm resistor from a 12V gage cluster supply line.

Regarding the speedo, purchase a later model cluster that has an electric speedo. I fired up HP Tuners, dialed in my gear ratio and tire size and the speedo was sent the correct/accurate signal. Same goes for the tach... I just plugged it into the tach sending wire. No need for Dakota Digital conversion boxes.

Good luck.

 

Looking down at the tank pick-up unit, the three ports are: Left (forward most), 3/8" inch, return; center, 5/16", to charcoal unit; right, 3/8", supply. I can use the factory line to the charcoal unit, so no problem there. But, in order to connect to the supply and return, I have to have a 3/8" Saginaw female push-on. I have the cut-off factory plastic lines, but I don't want to use rubber line, and I haven't seen any splice/adapters for factory plastic line to anything other than the Saginaw push-ons. I'm getting 5/16" and 3/8" aluminum line in my Summit order, which is out for delivery as I type. I just wish I would have gotten a couple more of those Russell adapters.

I understood about the vapor line to the engine. Since the evap won't be active, I will simply leave the line open at the tank, and remove the solenoid et al from the engine. I think I'll end up fabricating a braided line to go from the supply line to the fuel rail - that's cheaper than a one-time-use $250+ flaring tool - I just would have preferred to use the factory line if an inexpensive adapter was available.

I'm getting more comfortable with the wiring. I had that huge bundle of wires going through the two connectors to the PCM stuck in my head, and looking at the whole thing again last night remembered what the interface connectors looked like. I had been considering putting the PCM in the passenger compartment, and couldn't imagine putting a big enough hole in the firewall to pass the PCM connectors through - and I perseverated on that rather than the interface connectors. I have 3 different wiring diagram print-outs, plus the engine swap relay/fuse center (which I also need to figure out a place to mount), so it's just a matter of getting to that. I was first thinking I would do as much wiring as possible before the engine was installed, but now I'm thinking I'll wait so I can route it more rationally.

The 0-90 GM sender you listed costs as much from gmpartsdirect.com as the programmable fuel gage, so I'll just stick with the gage. At first I wasn't too pleased with the aftermarket gage panel, but I'm getting more attached to it. I emailed Equus about the missing bulb sockets asking if they sold them individually, they're just going to send them to me! Now, that's what I call customer service!

I'm reasonably confident the Equus tach will work with the LS1 output, based on their information on it. If it doesn't, I'll add the boost voltage line as suggested. It's set-able for the 4 cyl input. They have an inductive pick-up available for the tach as well, but that would be a last resort.

The Auto Meter speedometer should do the trick. The PCM has already been programmed for my gears and tires. It doesn't matter a whole lot, as I can always recalibrate the speedometer with a 2-mile stretch of road.

Thanks for all the feedback. This has really eased my mind on what I've got left before me. During my searching last night I saw an accessory relocation bracket on an S10 forum, but rather than spend $550, I'll just notch the crossmember. Exhaust is the remaining high-dollar item.

 

Well, the Summit package arrived. Now I have 25' of 5/16" aluminum tubing, 2 5/16" flare nuts, and 2 5/16" tube nut sleeves that I don't need.

The local speed shop had the Russell couplers, so that's good to go.

The Auto Meter gauges aren't a perfect match for the Equus. I'll live with it, perhaps change out the Equus gages over time.

 

Finally got back into the garage. This after unclogging the kitchen drain last night and then having the power go out until morning - first time I remember a power outage that long in a long time.

I ran the supply and return lines off of the pick-up/pump and over the side of the tank, about 24" lengths that end up slightly below the front bottom corner of the tank.. I'm not the greatest at precision tube bending, so I'll let the other pictures available on this forum suffice . Mounted the tank back in the car. The tank contour seemed to be a little different than the factory '82 tank, left a little space on the front curve where it goes around toward the mount bolt. I put a piece of weather stripping in that corner and it snugged up fine. A couple of inches longer on the tubing would have been better, but it'll do. I'll get some splice couplings, fabricate the filter/return system.

I cut the filler hose on the fill end, did a test fit, but I don't seem to have the right size hose clamps, so I quit for the evening. Not sure how to get a screw in there to support the gas cap end, that'll be interesting.

Speaking of fuel filters, this was a carb car, so no FI filter back by the axle. Any filter choice better than others? I've seen some with the Saginaw fittings, but they had the built in return. Any suggestions on what application filter would work easiest? Flared fittings would be nice, but I suppose other types could be done. I've seen fuel line/filter repair kits, wondered about using something like that.

 

From what I've read the stock LS1 filter works A1 for pretty dang high HP applications and its cheap too. If you need a filter holder I have a spare one thats OEM GM plastic that wraps around the filter with two holes in the base for mounting. I put mine in the factory location but on a diagonal angle as thats what worked best for the way I ran my lines. I re-used my stock third gen fuel supply line from the filter to the back of the trans bellhousing

 

I looked at the LS1 filter and it requires the Saginaw fitting on the outlet. I believe I've heard others say they reused the 3rd gen EFI filter. I did find the repair fittings at Advance Auto Parts, so I picked them up along with a standard threaded o-ring in/out filter.

I'm running all-new line, so I can pretty much route it as I see fit.