For those that did the LS1 swap from underneath, i have a few questions. I want to purchase a complete LS1 with automatic transmission and install them together, easily as possible. I liked the idea of jacking the car up and installing it from underneath, i think. My question is how do you keep everything balanced to be bolted up? How many extra hands do you need in order for this install to be safe? Would it be easier to mount the engine and crossmember first then the transmission? what is the best platform to roll the entire unit (engine and transmission) under the car. Are jack stands good enough height for clearance? Pictures would be helpful, thanks.

 

...

 

I am just heading to bed so I'm not going to take any pictures but I'll give a quick rundown of how I did it.

I used my front rims to set the rear wheels on. I used my cherry picker to lift the front of the car up and then used two jack stands under the frame to hold the front end up because I had to pivot the picker legs out of the way while I rolled the engine/tranny under the car. Once I had it positioned I used the picker again and removed the jack stands.

Now to get the engine/tranny together and moved around I used two of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93888 First I set my transmission on one dolly (right under the pan). Then using the picker I lowered the engine (which was already bolted to the k-member) into place to bolt to the tranny. Once they were connected (don't forget to bolt up the converter) I set the k-member on another dolly. I had to use a couple of boards to level out the engine+tranny combo. I made sure to leave room that I could get a jack under the oil pan in case I had to raise the engine (use a board if you have to) but I didn't need it.

So, I rolled it under the car and once positioned I started lowering the car. Keep in mind (it seems so obvious but I forgot) that you can swing the front of the car side-to-side a little and thats easier then trying to get the engine/tranny combo to move just a tiny bit. I was amazed at how easily mine went together. Once I put the engine under the car in about 20 minutes I was bolting the k-member up and at 30 minutes I was going back inside trying to convince my wife to come see what I had just done. She was not impressed. I did use a jack under the tail of the tranny (after the first bolt in the k-member was in) to level it out and line up the back holes of the k-member.

I had no balancing issues and I removed and put the engine in myself and I have never done this before.

I was very uncertain about putting them in as one piece but it turned out so easy (beginners luck?) I would never do it any other way. Not gonna proof read, bed time.

 

midnit, where did you hook the picker onto the car? also if you put the rear tires on the front wheels, then it doesnt really need to be that high up in the air for the engine and transmission to slide under then? i pulled out the original 350 engine in it from the top without the transmission and it was a pain in the a$$, so i am reluctant to want to try it from the top again. not only was taking the engine out a pain, but unbolting the transmission from underneath sucked. thanks for the help. if anyone else has any insight, please reply.

 

I forgot to mention I had the nose of the car off during this process for other reasons. Getting the engine out required more room then putting the lsx back in. I also did not have the intake on the ls when I put it back.

On the passenger side I took the chain under the frame and hooked it to the hole in the frame behind the idler arm. (I had all steering components removed for replacement) On the drivers side I went under the frame and used a bolt from the steering box and bolted the chain in place.

No the rear end does not need to be that high. I had no problems with the height my rear was. Heck I even had the hood on the top of the car and some tools on the hood and nothing fell off. My results may not be typical - listen at your own risk!

 

My method varies from what was already posted...buy only slightly. Ive done it twice now...tehnically 6 times... (once to pull original 87, once to pull donor ls1, once to install ls1. then again to remove from wrecked 87, again to pull original 86, and finally to install the ls1 for the final time)

My build threads have pictures and explainations on how I did it... But Ill post a couple pictures again in here...

The donor 4th gen. Here is how you can hook it up if your front end is apart.



I didnt remove one body panel to install the ls1 in either the 87 or the 86! I used the sway bar mounting holes. I also installed the wonderbar just to keep anything from bending.

I got the motor on the k-member by lifting it with the hoist, and just bolting it on. Then I was able to pick the whole thing up and put it on the dolly.



You can see how I set it up in this picture. I used one large dolly. Worked great. I used a piece of wood under the oil pan, and a 4x4 under the trans to keep the motor at the level I wanted.



The whole thing slides under with the hoist in place. Just have your shifter off, and make sure nothing is sticking up around the motor.



Then just lower her on down. When you get close, use the k-member bolts to help get things lined up. As stated, moving the body around is easier than the motor. Just make sure the motor is close enough.



You want the rear up on ramps or wheels or something. The higher you get the rear, the less height you need from the hoist to clear the motor once its disconnected.

Here are some more random pictures during my second swap...









Its so easy I did it in th dark with nothing but my mom's jeep headlights for light.



If you have any more questions feel free...its pretty easy. Just be safe and for cryin out loud use your head... Its a good way to do it.

J.

 

Ahh, yes thats a lot higher then I raised mine. I rotated mine and led it out of that raised section of the wheel well. I also didn't have the a-arms on because they were getting replaced or even the exhaust for that matter. But still its basically the same thing. Much easier then anticipated.

 

Oh...I probably should have mentioned about the a-arms... The second go around, I tried to leave them connected. Big mistake. They got in the way of everything on the way out. With them off, the k-member will clear the hoist arms. With them on, its a no go.

I ended up zipping the control arms off before re-assembly. MUCH easier when its just the basic k-member.

J.

 

thank you J this answered alot of my questrions too!

 

Ghetto, was the height of the dolly and the blocks you used as well as the rear ramps all perfectly aligned when you dropped the body on it? i mean are the bolts all about the same height when ready to be bolted back in? thanks for your pictures, they help alot.

 

Not sure I quite understand what you are asking...but. What I ended up doing is removing the center section of my air dam. That allowed me to drop the car down to where the rest of the air dam was pretty much laying on the ground. At that point, the motor and trans were laying on the dolly. Thats how I figured out that I needed a 4x4 and a piece of wood under the motor/trans. The car will be angled down towards the nose...so you want the drivetrain slanted down towards the acessories to match.

When going back in, you slide it under, drop the car, and just keep shimmying the motor as you slowly lower the body until the alignment dowels get close. It helps to have a buddy YOU TRUST for this. Once you get the k-member close, do what you have to do get the holes lined up. I like using a screw driver up through the k-member into the bolt holes to help get things lined up. A smooth shop floor will make this job 100000x easier. My driveway is terrible. Very bumper and rough and soft so the wheels sink.

You'll probably need to put a jack under the trans ot push it up...but other than that, the body will fall right back down onto the motor pretty easy.

The other reason I put the rear up on ramps is so I could work on other areas in the process. It all just sort of worked out perfectly.

If that didnt answer what you needed it to...let me know!

J.

 

Very good thread....I followed his thread and it was easier than I thought. Instead of chains....I used heavy duty hauling straps and looped it around the front frames where the sway bar mounted thru the battery/coolant tank whole (passenger side) and the air/cruise module on the driver side.

I didnt want to damage anything.....I will be trying to do the same on the 3rd gen.....

here's my thread with a few pictures

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-project.html

Also this is a good write-up I found on removing the LS1 from the donor car

http://www.keliente.com/engine.htm

Just follow it line by line and bingo.

Best of luck.