Am I the only one having this problem?




The headers are ceramic coated, but this still doesn't seem like an ideal situation.

 

Remove the heat cover and try to bend that plug boot, you might end up having to purchase the MSD wires that you can bend a bit. Otherwise you'd have to buy the spark plug heat insulators and bend it best you can, right now that won't work and will burn up.

 

Damn, guess i will just tie mine forward if i cannot modify the coil bracket.

 

I had the same issue, I think I slightly bent the boot to clear the header.

 

I originally had truck coils on, switched the driver side back to LS1 to avoid interference with the fuel line. With the truck coils, using an LS1 spark plug wire pulled it up enough to get it away from the header tube, but I was afraid it wouldn't stay in the coil with the tension on it (had I kept truck coils on). The truck spark plug wire did exactly the same thing.

I was wondering about aftermarket wires. I'd have to get an LS1 set and truck set (using truck coils on the passenger side to clear the AC housing).

Just what I need, something else to spend money on.

 

I'm using truck coils, and the truck set of MSD wires. Like I said, I just slightly bent the one wire away from the header and haven't had any issues since.

 

On ls1tech there's a sponsor that custom makes the msd wire sets and gives a lifetime warranty, he could possibly make you half and half setup. Or perhaps just buy a single wire off him as an option.

 

I had those on my IROC and they're garbage. They don't stay bent because the boot keeps straightening out the bent steel, and after you re-bend it a few more times, it breaks.

I solved that problem by using a spark plug kit that had 90* spark plug boots. I would expect a similar set of wires to work here, or at least for that specific cylinder. I don't know if they make a set like that for LS1s or not, so you may have to make your own.

 

Dont bend it thats not nec. I made a nice neat little mod that works perfectly. I trimmed the top of the silicone boot on a slight angle to clear the header then I rotated the wire/boot at the coil to pull the spark plug boot/wire away from the header. Left me with 1/2" clearance or better and three years strong running in hot summer, idling traffic etc etc never a problem. Seeing as the engine is now on a stand I can mock up the header for you and get a pic if you like but its pretty cake this fix.

 

I did try twisting the wire/boot on the coil to pull it up, but that seemed a bit lame.

But, if it worked for you, worth a try. A pic of the trim job would be nice.

 

To update, I did take the shield off, put a plug wire boot fabric-type sleeve over it, and rotated the coil end as suggested. Working so far.

 

I have all of my wired spun up so it makes a decent arc and i "trimmed" the boot where ti was barely touching with a razor blade.

 

I had that problem. I used a set of boot sleeves from Accel. I think I picked them up at Autozone for about 40 bucks. Besides looking kinda neat, they will stop things from burning and melting. My boots lay right up aganist my headers, and Ive yet to have any issues.

They look like this:







I also used these to insulate my clutch hydraulic line before I routed it inside. They seem to work very well.

J.

 

I forgot I was supposed to get a pic for you on how I trimmed this boot but the LS1 is long gone and so is the plug wire so I cant now. Instead I borrowed your pic five7 to show how I trimmed it. I never removed my metal shield as mentioned I just trimmed the boot on an angle as shown and twisted the wire as mentioned and three years never a blip of an issue with it. See pic for adjustments