Did you move your upper strut bearings when you did the body work? That might change the alignment. The other possibility is that the lower front springs are throwing it off. If you provide the specs (which are posted somewhere on this site), any shop with the proper equipment will be able do to an alignment after y ou get your ride height where you want it.

And kudos to you for taking on such an ambitious project.

 

subscibed

 

V6 springs worked well for me in the LS1/T56 swap, and half a coil off of the V8 springs worked well for the LS1/4L60E swap.

What about your tach isn't working? Nothing at all? Or only reading half the RPMs? If the former, I understood Camaro tachs worked when hooked up to the PCM tach output wire, but 'Bird tachs need a "helper voltage" (it's escaping me right now what it's been called) to boost the signal. If reading low, you need to have the PCM programmed for the proper output (stock output works with the 4 cyl setting of an aftermarket tach).

 

Thanx five7. I´ll look into that programing, if there´s someone that could do it around here.
I just got my new stock Iroc front coil springs today. So after work I´ll be on the garage floor again, changing springs for the 3:rd time in 2 weeks....

After that I´ll need to find a KM/H speedo that can read the T56 signal and fit into my stock dash. I´ve been searching like crazy for something that goes to 300 Km/h but havent found any yet. Do any of you guys know the correct size for our speedometers?

When I was driving the car yesterday I could hear a "not so nice" bearing sound from the transmission when in 2 and 3:rd gear....I drive it without a shifterboot now and no console toppart and no shifterboot either. Are "some" noise normal from these transmissions?

 

Regarding my front alignment, It´s really strange. The steering wheel has the exact same amount of turns to the right/left, but the steering wheel is not centered when the wheels are...

 

The steering wheel must not be mounted properly to the column shaft splines, then.

 

is it only when you let off? could be a throw out bearing

 

Hmm not sure what to suggest regarding the steering wheel thats a tricky one to diagnose over the net. As for the tach? Indeed five7 has it down you need to make sure the output signal is tuned to output 8cyl as they are 4cyl by default. Also the boost feed with a 4k resistor is used if the tachj doesnt move at all wired into 12v+ works mint.

Regarding the speedo I run the autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lite 260kmh speedo. It takes some tweaking to get it into the dash nicely but it looks great and is easy to calibrate. To my knowledge they dont sell a 300kmh version. I also run the matching tach and mech oil pressure gauge.

 

Do you know if that speedo is avalable in black with white lettering? Which size should I get/do you have? I´ve looked on that one in Aotometers homepage, and I´ve only seen it in silver. Looks really nice though.
Regarding the steeringwheel issue again. It sure is strange cause the steering wheels hasent been removed at all....And the splines in the steering rack down where the splines are, seems that they only mount back in one way. It has a flat ground ground surface on it, that has to line up when you mount it. But I´ll try to remove it and just reposition it straight. Just need to find a bolt in type puller for this.

Been driving my car for a few days now, and I have to say it´s a blast to drive!!! Feels super responsive and strong too. The 400+ stock horsepower along with my 3:73`s sure is fun and fast, nothing like the old 230hp/auto combo. Luckily ;-)

 

Hello, I am in the process of putting together a list of LT and LS swaps here on TGO, if you would like to add your thread paste your thread link in a reply here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ltx-swaps.html and I will add it to the list.

 

Been doing some tweaking on the exhaust for more ground clearance. I´m going to drive 3 hours down south towards a dragstip on friday. Gonna ba really careful though because of the fragile rear end....It´s still gonna be alot faster than the 14.43 I did with the stock engine, I hopre ;-)

 

Came back fro a little roadtrip to a dragstrip 3 hours away from my town. Just drove 3 runs, since I´m really scared of messing up the rear end with my manual tranny. Best ET 12.98 with a 112MPH speed. I "launched" at idle speed so I think it´s a completely OK time.
The bad parts about this trip is that my clutch now has started to do as a lot of you other guys clutches do: It´s sticks to the floor!!! This sucks sooo bad.

Another issue is
a strange oil leak, but I will look into this some more before writing about it here.

My Spohn torque arm is acting strange too. It has hit a dent/hole in the floor/tunnel with it´s big chunky metal piece where it attaches to the rear end. The thing that´s really strange is that it´s hitting the floor when I´m driving it like an old lady changing gears at walking speed....

Another misshap is that my 4:th gen plastic tank is POURING out gas when I fill it up at the gas station. The same thing happend when I accelerate with more than 3/4 in the tank, I litterally pours out gas on the ground behing the car. I´m just not sure from where this happens yet. Could´nt se any signs of it the leek from underneath the car today either.

During saturday when all of my dragstrip driving happened, everything was OK/functioning with the car , but during sunday It started to mess with me in every single possible way....
But I´ll try to solve each problem with the help from you guys here at TG.Org
I brought a Hero video camera that I borrowed from a friend to make a video of the driving, but I could get the damn thing to work either ;-)

 

Have you done the drill mod? This is essential no matter what master cyl you use. If not then this should solve your clutch sticking issues.

Oil leak? Have you got the engine properly vented and/or PCV hooked up? If not these things will blow oil out of everywhere and anywhere. Also the oil pressure sender behind the intake is not the most durable thing on the planet so check to see that its in tight and not broken.

Spohn torque arms take up a LOT of tunnel real estate and often hit the tunnel. I clearanced mine with the BFH and its okay now.

As for the tank? YIKES man... the whole car could go up in flames if you dont find that leak. No idea what to suggest specifically other than follow each line and hose in or out of the tanks and see if you can find the bad spot. If you still dont find it I think Id take it back out and start fresh. Its a lot of work but your better safe than sorry when it comes to gasoline leaking.

 

Hi there cam- only five more weeks before we show up in Toronto :-)
Regarding the PCV system. I have one hose coming from the pass side valve cover going into my aluminum intake pipe. Like it does on factory GTO´s I guess. It´s like a 8 or 10 mm hose that goes straight to the intake duct about 25 cm before the TB. Other than that I don´t really know, what more is there to this system?

The tank issue is really strange, I have a cut up hole under the trunk space carpeting, that I put a clear plastic Lexan pieace over, and everything seems to be fine from there at least. From underneath the tank you can see a short plastic hose pointing downwards, I´m "semi" sure this hose has something to do with tank over pressure, and I´m suspecting the fuel to come from that hose.

When you do the dril mod. How do you manage to get the braided hose of the master cylinder? What I´ve read that´s where the drilling are done. But the braided hose is clamped in on the MC permanently from the factory, so how do I do this?
The weird thing about this whole pedal sticking to the floor thing is that, how could the pedal work so flawlessly for 2 weeks no matter how I drive it, and then all of a sudden not be working at all?

 

 

Id be willing to bet this is the cause of your oil problems. Your PCV system should have two sides. A clean side and a dirty side. The dirty side runs straight to manifold vacuum after the tb and this one is most important for venting the crankcase. Theres a pic in this thread showing what I mean

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...routing-2.html

The master cyl line is not permanent. In facts its pretty easy to remove there is a roll pin that presses out perpendicular to the line line. Anyways just read this it'll explain;


http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...-write-up.html


As for the fuel spilling out??? Post pics man I have zero clue what to suggest. That line you mention is the overflow but ive never ever had a drop come out of mine so????