Pocket

iTrader: (24)

My LSx swap turned out to be significantly lighter than the SBC, even with the iron truck block. Now its time to lower the front back to stock height. Id like to continue the shoestring budget and cut some of the front springs rather than buy drop springs which are set for the heavy SBC and will re-lift the front end. My main goal is to get the suspension back to stock ride height and back within the adjustable limits of the suspension. Tire wear will never be right at this height

Surfing and searching the susp forum yielded alot of conflicting answers, and even more senseless bickering. There didnt seem to be a set formula of X coils cut yields Y drop for Z springs

How much did you cut off your springs if you went the cutting method?

ls6iroc

iTrader: (1)

i remember reading that sheldon had eibach springs like myself. he cut 1/3 of a coil to return it to preswap height. i plan on doing the same my front end is higher now.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I must be the only one that installed Eibach Pro Kit springs and got an almost perfectly level car. I was actually anticipating having to trim some of the springs, and was really shocked after I took it for a ride and it settled right out. They were used springs, so maybe that had something to do with it.

Some guys have removed the isolators from on top of the springs. That might be good for a half inch or so...but not sure of any negative effects of loosing the isolator.

Too bad those springs are such a PITA to remove/replace, or Ide say just trim a little and check...trim, check...etc etc.

1/4 - 1/2 coil would probably be a good start.

J.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

On my 90 RS & 92 RS, both with standard 305 TBI/T5s, I cut 1/2 coil off the front, 3/4 coil off the rear. If your LS is a bit lighter, this isn't a direct reference, but gives you a reference point.

90 RS

92 RS

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

My front raised up about 3"

Id do the guess and check method 1/4 coil at a time, but dang those springs are a bear to get out. I may need to borrow my friends lift for another day and spend some quality time with the car again

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Considering how little my cars dropped with 1/2 coil under a heavier engine....*I* would start at 1 full coil & expect to cut more.

I would actually just bite the bullet & start with weigh jacks. Since they are adjustable, changes afterwards are free. Just a little labor involved, but no $.

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem with my car with sportlines, putting the spohn tubular a-arms fixed my problem lol. It's wierd, I thought they corrected that issue.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

How much have you actually driven it since it was finished? You might want to wait a week to make sure it won't settle any more before cutting them because I found that my car sat a good 3" too high up front after my swap was done, and after driving it around it settled down to nearly where it was to begin with (used Hotchkis lowering springs with ? Amount of miles on them). You don't want to cut them before they fully settle because once they're cut, they're cut for good.

One idea I have seen some guys do, with 4th gens anyways, is when they do major weight reductions, they will buy a set of V6 springs because those are rated for a lighter car.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I used a set of V6 springs with one coil cut out to lower it. I wish I hadn't cut that coil though, as the car is just a tad too low for daily driver use....

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ive got about 400 miles on it so far. I knew not to worry until the front settled down. The next job is final alignment with the new tires and being this high wont work

Kingsize24

iTrader: (1)

I would think a V6 coil would get you there. Otherwise, cut 1/2 a coil at a time till your happy... taking a couple of days between cuts to allow it to settle again.

cam-

Im running sportlines. Exact same ride height as it was with the sbc.

The v6 5spd OEM third gens weight almost exactly what an LS1/m6 swapped third gen does and there were no issues with those cars running drop springs and ride height.

As for cutting the springs? Dont do it unless you like replacing shocks every month. Even a half coil messes up the rate of the springs soooooo drastically that the shocks cant take the rate and it blows them out.

Ask me how I know... my Bilsteins... *whelp*....

Get some sportlines ( fronts only if your on a super budget ) and use isolators and heater hose wrap trick to adjust the rear to suit.

or prokit etc.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Maybe your method of cutting was the cause, or just bad shocks to begin with?

I've done several cars & raced them monthly in Autocross & well as daily drivers....Even daily drivers that were also autocrossed.

On NONE of them have I had to replace the shocks even once from blowing out, or degrading in any other way, much less replaced them monthly.

IIRC, the rate change per coil cut, is in the low single digit range. Not exactly what can be called "soooooo drastically".

Do you know something that the professionals don't?

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

Stephen - he may be referring to cutting aftermarket progressive rate springs, as compared to OEM linear rate.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Even if so, the Professionals (race teams, builders, etc.) cut aftermarket springs. Progressive rate springs only change the equation on how to figure out the resulting spring rate.

Before you ask....I don't think there is a "standard equation" to use, since the progressive rate would determine it.

Besides, the OP is using stock springs so it doesn't apply anyways......

cam-

Nope just my experience. I took a coil and a little more off and it blew out my bilsteins. I replaced them with new shocks around and new Eibachs and havent had a problem since. So when i say "soooooo much" i mean enough to wreck my shocks I dont have a formula for it nor do I care Im only offering an opinion on something that didnt work for me. I was trying to be cheap and paid the price. When somethings cheap theres typically a cost for it being so. Your happy with cut coils then Im happy for you.

Cutting coils is not something im a fan of based on my experience. New springs are not expensive plus who knows how many miles and whats happened to his springs by now? Its his car, and his dough, he can do whatever he wants. He asked about the suspension and I offered my opinion nothing more

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

for comparison (not sure how low you want to go) i have an iron 6.0l, v6 springs, 1 coil off the front, and 1.5 coils off the rear:

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

I am having the same issue after i installed my eibach sportline springs.

So this is my setup.

LS1 swap with auto tranny

Stock A-arms

KYB 8way ADJ shocks all the way around

eibach sportline springs in rear and front and my front no isolators in the front.

And its setting really high, higher then my stock springs.

Not before i did the ls1 swap i had a 305 v8.

So what would be the best thing to do?? i got confused on what to do. i havent really drove the car since because it looks ugly but its been sitting for a week.

any comments and suggestions would help alot.


thanks,

-Mike

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

My car was a 6cyl auto car when it began life. Previous owner started a sbc swap, only got springs and mounts changed, never finished. That said, I don't know what springs are in the car, but after my swap it sat almost 2 inches high in relation to the rear with known v8 springs in the back. Cut a little over half coil off and now front end is 1/2-3/4 low in the front now. Was shooting for level, I have another set of low mile front springs from a 90 IROC, that I will try just under a half coil and see where it goes.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Another way to try first, could be lowering the rear a bit. You could use heater hose or skinny isolators on the rear springs, instead of raising the front.... unless you are scraping the ground.
Certainly it is much easier to swap the rears out, or experiment with different isolators.
You will want to keep track of keeping your axle in the center, and your pinion angle, if you have an adjustable torque arm.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

My exhaust has one area that is close to the ground, and Michigan roads totally suck. So far I haven't scraped on anything, but my driving has been limited, and haven't been into any parking lots yet. If I don't have scraping issues, I will probably try to lower the rear instead like you suggest. The fronts are such a PITA, and I do have a adjustable panhard bar and torque arm to correct axle centering and pinion angle if needed

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I read on here that OEM springs are wound in measures of 1/3rd of a coil, so try cutting less

Also keep in mind OEM springs changed drastically from model to model, year to year and 20-25 year old springs never react the same as new ones

Yeah, it sucks, but I kept on with the guess and check method. You'll only set the height once, then dont worry about it again. If you're the type to set it differently often, put some corner jacks in and leave the stock springs alone

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

I found out that my prokit with my sub box lowered my car huge. So much that on my car trailer I had issues opening the door and before I neve had a issue. I wanna keep the box but got to figure out how to bring the rear up at least a 1/2 inch and im good

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I just pulled the sub box, amp, and cap out of my car last week, the rear came up 3/8s of an inch. I estimate the subs and equipment at 80 pounds. Thought about putting it back, then my car would be closer to level. But the sub box covers the Ttop bag hooks in the back and I got tired of not having anywhere to put the tops.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Yeah thats the only thing that sucks with the box. i cant take my box out as I need my tunes man. Its the one thing I cant live without