should of been more specific i guess lol. they're 1 3/4 or 2"?

 

1.75 x 3

Just a FYI, they fixed the jigs so they clear auto trans. Even my behemoth of a 4L80E clears just fine and the HO2 bungs are easy to get to. Had to drop the inspection plate to get the drivers side in and chop the ears off the bell, but otherwise, slip in and bolt them up. Nice not having to chop the collectors and relocate a HO2 like I had to with the knockoffs

 

did you go through SSW direct, or have to go through hawks still?

 

^^ I called stainless works about special ordering some, they are in a contract with hawks so no you can't buy any headers directly from them unfortunetly

 

Spohn. Id build my own before dealing with that jerk at Hawks again

SSW wont sell them direct, nor any other SSW dealer I checked with

Well anyways, Im dead in the water for a while. Welding gun totally fell apart as I was doing the pinch weld on the pass SFC. Cant do the drivers side or exhaust until a replacement gets here

 

I hear that. After I ordered my BMR steering brace from them I had read a couple threads about them not fitting dual fan cars. Immediately I called them up and the girl(jenny?) set me up with Bruce so I could ask him if it would fit. He told me outright "I've never had a problem with them fitting dual fan third gens". Turns out I had to trim a large amount of plastic from the lower part of the fans, not that I had a problem with trimming them but the fact that he wasn't honest with me has turned my business elsewhere.

 

? Kind of curious what was the problem dealing with them? Ive not purchased anything there in a while but they were top notch when I did. Has that place gone to the turds or what?

 

It was mentioned earlier in this thread when Headers were being discussed.

 

to be fair... that was about half the thread ago..

 

A post number would have been most helpful its not like I havent bent over backwards helping people around here...




But I did spend the five mins and dug through and see the craptastic stuff they're passing off as top. All I can say is my SW pieces are MINT and I am very happy but they dont look like the ones Pocket posted up about. More of a satin finish not nearly so shiny

 

No harm meant was just trying to point you in the general direction. Late nights working on cars.

Starts on page 9 post #397

 

No worries Im severely overworked and under sexed right now. My girlfriend went away for a week so im on edge to say the least as normally I dont bite. Thank God for beer

 

Doesnt make it any better

Having compared both, I can vouch for the SSW headers being that much more awesome

Both are the 3" collector versions. SSW slide in from the top no gripes, cleared the 4L80E with no problem. Both HO2s were installed and torqued with the headers bolted in. Future replacements will be simple. A light dent in the drivers side of the trans tunnel is recommended for the HO2 wires because they're close, but dont quite touch. Knockoffs needed alot of help. They slid in easily and cleared the 4L60E just fine, but the drivers collector needed about 2.5" cut off to be able to get any tubing on to build a Y-pipe. Drivers HO2 is a bit of a pain to reach, but doable, pass side hit the trans and must be moved down stream on the Y-pipe. Drivers collectors on both are high and tight, pass sides hang down a bit more, with the knockoffs being approx 1/2" lower. Still not bad ground clearance

 

Just got to catching up with your thread and have a few questions from a page ago :

Fuel system:
- Looks like you just ran -6 feed and return- did the fittings you listed let you connect to the factory connections (are you still running a factory tank or did you go 4th gen?)?
- how many feet of braided line did you end up using?
- what do you expect what you have to be good for hp wise?
- you mention a complete fuel system for $1000 didn't sound bad after doing it, does someone sell one for our cars?

Axle:
- I get the jig holding things in position, but did you do anythingg to make sure that they were straight when you were done? (besides the obvious skip around/keep the heat as even as possible to keep from warping things) Did you check it after you were done?

 

Listed fittings connected to the OEM EFI sending unit

I ended up using about 30' of hose for the fuel and trans lines

The 340 pump will be the limiting factor in the system and its supposed to be good for 850 on a FI system. We shall see

Nasty performance on LS1tech builds ready to go fuel systems for 4th gens. 3rd gens are very similar, just swap the tank fittings around. Im sure they can accommodate the minor differences

I checked the axle just like i aligned it when doing the initial tack welds. Magnetic angle finder onto of the tubes and 7' level across the rear cover flange measured with my calipers

 

Few updates from a VERY long day

Plugged the open ports on the blower. Very nerve racking to have to keep all those shavings under wraps and out of the very delicate teflon coated rotors. To cap it all off, those plugs are damn near as expensive as AN hose ends


Fabbed the trans crossmember using the SFCs as mounts


Drivers side SFC


Pass side


Same basic design as any perimeter SFCs, just with 2" round tubing instead of boxed. Has center tubes mounted to the frame acting as crossmember mounts

Finished up the E-brake adapter. Some 1/4" plate with grooves cut in it to hold the LS1 cable ends, about 8" of the stock 3rd gen cables welded to the ends. If the rear has to come out, the sandwich section just unbolts. No difficult spread clips to deal with getting the cables free


That wasnt fun to drill accurately and mount...


Works great though, so thats all that counts

Easiest job of the day, intake. It points backwards so I can mount an oil fill between the middle coils


Sent the PCM off for a rough flash, ordered the custom DS and didnt send myself to the hospital today. Guess it wasnt a bad day afterall. With any luck Ill have this thing running by the end of the week. Brakes most likely wont be on until after autofair, as Im have a heck of a time finding a machine shop thats not dumbfounded by turning the rotors down

 

Lookin good man! Will that air filter flow enough CFM to support your hp goals? Looks kinda small....

 

Please excuse me if I missed it already, but if the torque arm is going to be stressing that new crossmember, then please box/strengthen or otherwise gusset it to keep it from breaking or flexing.

 

Not sure on the filter. Its a $20 special with no numbers. Find out later I guess

TA mount isnt finalized yet. The crossmember is 1/4" plate just like my previous swap and that never failed. Not really sure how Im going to mount the TA though. The bushing in the pic is just a test fit. Probably will end up cutting the clamshell off and building my own loop to hold the rubber. Too tight in there

 

Gosh that TA mount took forever to setup

Had to hack the crap out of the clamshell to fit it in there. Ended up popping the rivets out and turning the bushing around backwards for more room towards the trans. All the mounts are done with 1/4" x 1.5" plate. It sits under the trans mount so I dont have to pull that ornery thing with the crossmember. Takes about 30 mins to assemble the bushing before bolting anything together. The TA mount lifts the tail 1/4", theres a stack of washers on both mount bolts lifting the tail another 1/2". It simply cant go any higher


Pinion angle was quite a challenge. The monster '80E just isnt made for 3rd gens. I jacked it up as high as possible until it hit the trans tunnel. Best I could get was 2* down. Apparently 0* axle flange to TA mount I built on the rear end isnt ideal either. With the TA front mount as high as possible the best I could get was 0*. DS angle was also 0* for a working angle of 2* tailshaft down, not that great because it will only get worse if the car squats on a hard launch which it should

Fix is to cut the TA mount off the rear end and reweld with a few degrees built in or buy/build an adjustable TA. Ill probably go with the latter. Also could jack the rear of the car higher, but I get enough Joe Dirt jokes already. Fix for the driveline angle is to lower the motor mounts, effectively lowering everything mechanical including the exhaust or cutting the top of the trans tunnel out. Not happening

Moving on with the exhaust. SSW collectors are just under 3" OD so my tubing flared to tightly fit a 3" tube were awful loose. To make it worse, the collector design doesnt have much room for a clamp to sit beyond the spread so Ill have to use flat band clamps vs the no-leak lap joint clamps. Called it a day before joining the Y-pipe to the 4" rear section. I have to finalize the over-the-axle portion before joining these. Lots of test fitting to be done tomorrow too

3" tubing, the merge will be opened up to 4" prior to welding. Looks simple compared to most of the Y's I build


4" intermediate and rear sections hung with scrap wire. Mr. Spider wont be too happy when its time to fire this thing up


Looking forward. Lowest point is actually the pass collector. To keep things tight I level the car then measure from the floor up


Tom's got me worried about the crossmember too so I may figure some way to gusset it since the exhaust is pretty easy to remove. Might as well gusset the mounting tabs too since Ill already be under there. Man I love tight quarters overhead welding

 

looking forward to your finished exhaust....have you decided on a muffler/tailpipe configuration?

 

Going to attempt to emulate a GMMG style chambered exhaust stacked under the trunk, just using 3" mufflers instead of 2". Oh, and mine wont be polished stainless either. Rattle can high temp black . No more rusty exhaust tubing for me

 

Over teh axle portion took longer than expected. Still not terrible. 4" going past the stock upper panhard bar is a challenge and super tight, but it will clear. Now Im just waiting on the chambered sticks to get here before the whole system is completed. Probably will be after its tuned

Whole thing


Over the axle portion next to a 3" ring, what a difference. I put a slip joint in so it wont be so difficult to remove the Y-pipe. Almost a guarantee Ill be tinkering on something under there


Waiting on my PCM now, cant wait for the first fire

 

Thats alot of welds, your eyes must hate you to.

 

Since I bought a new helmet my eyes havent hurt one bit after a long day of welding. Harbor freight special with blue flames

 

Nice, can you make another y-pipe like that and sell it to me? lol

 

Built a DS loop yesterday. Sure I could have bought one, but I didnt really like any of the designs out there and none looked like they would clear my setup. Wasnt thrilled about ripping my interior out for this but such is life. Lower section is removable so I can get the DS out without removing the loop



When a wall of a building falls down when you're inside it, does it make a sound? Yes, it does

 

PCM came in with the rough tune. After a defective fuel fitting and loose brake line, it fired up. I shut it down to button up a few last bolts and now the starter is dead

So yay!

 

Good thing the starter is stupid easy to change!

 

congrats on getting it going. what fitting let go on you? after reading a few of the 'tech threads, I went back and put in some stops to prevent the quick connect clips from coming out.

as for the starter, if you're looking for something used, PM 88FormulaKiller; he set me up on a great deal for my starter and alternator, wouldn't hesitate to work with him again

 

Holy **** man good thing that wall fell outward!!! haha

 

Yeah, swapped that out and put the belt on for some rpm tests. All good

Checked the codes and found a MAP circuit fault and two trans codes. Looked and the MAP was unplugged, easy fix. Two for the trans have me scratching my head

P0740 TCC circuit
P0785 3-2 shift electrical

Symptoms are 3rd gear start and immediate TC lock-up until the engine nearly stalls. Im going to test the circuits on those before moving on

According to this guy (who really knows 4L80E's) is a tune problem. 4L60E tune commanding a 4L80E
#9
http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-...guys-come.html

Other issues are damaged/crossed wires or bad solenoid(s). Fingers crossed, Ill call the tuner tomorrow and see which file he loaded in it

 

Strait hose end right at the tank sender adapter had a burr on the flare preventing it from sealing 100%

Ran the car again and my PS pump is going out. All the fluid has foamed up and its brand new

Stone work on the wall fell off because the mason sucked. Zero adhesion to the skim coat, heck the mud is up to 4" thick. With all that weight not wonder it came off

 

Moving right along man, good work. I got the FAST/TCI GM 4 speed trans controller, and they did not mention it does not come with a TPS, so i am going to make a bracket and use one off a TBI from a 90 4.3 on my carb to get the TPS signal, and MAN this thing does allot for 600$(550 after they refunded 50$ for screwing up the order), manual converter locking, normal to agressive shift tune, bump shift ect ect, i did not know it would allow me to do all that, just was not happy to see i had to make or buy a TPS setup.

 

The greenbird flies again

 

I don't believe you lets see the proof.

 

That looks real good pocket!, how much boost are you making? you should make kits i am sure you could make some money making these! you going to post a video of it running?

 

Pretty bad a__ dude I must say. Keep the work up you got alot of followers and secret admires hehe jk.

 

She's running? When are you gonna get a dyno tune? Looks great buddy!

 

With car projects, big or small, there's ALWAYS more to them than you expect.

I was going to do just a simple LT1/4L60e swap, and now I am cutting LS1 coil brackets, building a T56, getting the block decked and built, spending mass dollars on heads and stuff, buying LTCC stuff, buying polished radiator shroud, buying slave spacer for T56 etc. etc. etc. etc. It never ends.

Yep, I am an addict (a parts addict that is).

 

Few pics of it all cleaned up and two videos



Roll into the throttle 1st and 2nd gear pull


Hammer it from about 35. Traction? Whats that

 

Wow, thats one distinct sound haha! Sounds like the godzilla of blowers under there. Congrats on getting it back on the road. Ever get it dyno'd?

 

how much hp you think your putting down?

 

It sounds awesome Jon! Is that on a mail order tune only?

 

are u running a bov?

 

Mayhem did a dynotune. Jeff really knows his stuff

No BOV, factory GT500 bypass valve butterfly is under the SC inlet

 

Any numbers?

 

sounds like belt slippage when you let off the throttle...whats going on there?

 

Well if it is like a regular M112 or M122 they open the bypas valve in the bottom of the compressor and it makes a pretty awsome sound. I used have a M122 on my 2003 Denali. It made a similar sound. You can port the bypass to reduce the noise during decel, but it is alot of work for no gain. T

Nice work Pocket, that thing moves!

 

You need to get a 140mph speedo in there.

I actually have an extra 140 cluster that came with my car when I bought it.