so whatd you tell the machine shop to do exactly. machine this part down this far and this part down this far or something?

 

It's not a detailed process. I just told them to machine the rotors off of the hubs down to the same diameter of the hubs. So now they are just hubs and no rotors. That's all that needs to be done to them.

They did a really nice job too. They did more than I even asked them to do. They machined the back face of the hub evenly and it looks like there was never supposed to be rotors on them at all. They went above and beyond for the agreed price.

Here is a pic of another guy's hub after the rotors were machined off:

 

The numbers in both links don't match what's stamped on my motor mount brackets. But I found that the one with "36" at the end is the RH motor bracket.

Even though the holes in each bracket look the same as far as their locations, I've read about several guys having problems getting their engines in if they are not bolted to the proper sides.

 

Update:

Next month should be the month my engine gets done and I get my rebuilt T56 from Hawks...possibly February for the engine. Can't wait to post pics of it then put it and the T56 in my car. Then, it's off to the shop to get custom Tri-Y headers built for the beast All of this will be a major advancement in my frickin' never-ending swap project

ALSO, I decided "NO shorties." I want to get as much as I can out of my 383. Might as well spend ALL of my money, since I've spent way more than I initially expected anyway. Heck, at first, I didn't even plan to rebuild the LT1, let alone do an all forged 383 with worked over heads and intake plus a T56. So...what the heck right?

The custom headers (non-coated mild steel) will cost me $350 more than Dyno Don's Shorties with Y-pipe. I will have the headers built with both ground-clearance and functionality/effectiveness in mind.

I just think it will be frickin' cool to have these headers on my engine.

When done properly, the Tri-Y design is much more efficient than 4-tube headers and "improves engine breathing by utilizing the exhaust velocity of one cylinder to help the exhaust velocity of another." Here is a pic of Tri-Y headers, for those who are not sure what they are:




Got my motor mounts blasted and powdercoated, and I got my balancer blasted. I'm going to paint the balancer using the "rattle can powdercoating" stuff that the powdercoating place sells. Also you can see the aluminum coil bracket mounts a friend of mine made for me in his machine shop.

I'll use "all thread" in the valve cover mounting holes then just slip the coil bracket mounts on, put the brackets on over the mounts then tighten it all down using nuts. Should work well with about 3/4" of clearance between the bottom of the coils and the top of the valve covers.

My k member is being blasted and powdercoated as we speak. I chose red for the k member.

Still gotta finish grinding the other spindle for the QA1 strut and have to fix my A-Arm where I squeezed it and get the frickin' bushings out and then get the spindles and A-Arms powdercoated. Now is definitely the time to do all this.




I don't want to scuff up my polished valve covers, so the coils will rest about 3/4" above the tops of the valve covers. I am anxious to have the engine in the car and start working on all the "little" details like the coils, plug wires, power steering lines, etc.

 

I hope this swap thread isn't TOO detailed for people.

It's just that I enjoy posting here and sharing what all I am doing with my swap.

I love car parts and engines and always have.

 

I just got '93 Z28 donor. Ouh boyh.... This is a handful
Great thread!!!

 

Thanks! It's not too bad really. I am picky though so some things drive me nuts (dirty parts, choosing new parts, etc.).

 

Yeah. I don't like dirty parts myself. BTW, I am an official Supra/2JZ hater as well LOL.
(don't get me wrong, I am not trying to start anything here, just sayin'). It's not as much supra itself, as people driving it, thinking they are better then us "rednecks"

 

There is one Supra here in Casper. He claims 650 horsepower to the wheels. I want to race him when my car is running and see how I do. It would be cool to beat him.

Yeah a lot of guys down in Arizona who had Supras had cocky attitudes. Some of them were really fast and some of them were stock.
I made the mistake of racing a 900 whp Supra in my SRT-4. I was in the shop down in Chandler, AZ when he was getting his Supra dynoed. It registered 904 to the wheels. Sick. Just sick. The guy who owned that Supra was cool, though.

When I bought my 87 IROC, I was then hooked on the third gen Camaro.
I liked how it felt and how it looked and how it sounded.

Nothing new to report on my swap. Just waiting for my K member to get done being powdercoated and waiting to be able to pay for the frickin' heads and drive system.

 

A few people have inquired about the brake swap. For those who are interested in the LS1 brake swap, here are two pics showing the new longer studs and my machined stock hub/rotor castings. I was disappointed that the machining cost me $150, but it's still cheaper than the $350 or more it costs for new rotorless hubs.

Also I got all new Timken wheel bearings and seals from Race Pages for less than $40 shipped

I'm going to wait on the grinding of the other spindle, until I get my struts, to see if I ground it properly for the fitment of the QA1 struts.

The shop just machined the rotors off the hubs. They did a great job. This pic shows the backside of the hubs:



Comparing the stock and longer studs. I hope they're long enough:

 

looking good. i want to see the k member and all the other coated stuff on the car already.

 

Thank you Steven. Yeah I'd like to see the whole car done already!! I keep encountering financial setbacks.

I dropped off my A arms, hubs and other stuff today at the powdercoating place, and the k member still wasnt finished


I finally got the bushings out of the A arms the other day!

I used an air chisel to finally get those boogers out! The place that machined my hubs let me use their air chisel. I went to town on those darn bushings, and I let out an evil laugh as I finally got those things out of the A arms.

 

I got my LS1 front calipers today.

These things are HUGE! They're Much bigger than I pictured in my mind. $65 shipped total, for both of them off Ebay.

Still waiting for the swap brackets from Ed Miller, which I ordered two weeks ago.

One of the guide pins is totally stuck in the mounting bracket, though, and it won't move freely like it's supposed to. I've beat the heck out of it and turned it with a 16mm wrench but I can't get the sucker out of the bracket

Thankfully the guide pin is available through GM I'll just have to get that old guide pin out first and clean up the rust in the bracket hole.

Here are some pics of the calipers... and also I was pleasantly surprised to see what it said on my slave cylinder from OReilley's, so I included a pic of that too.






I couldn't believe it when I read it! I said outloud, "What? No way!"

 

Got that guide pin out....had to clamp the crap out of it in a vice and push down on the bracket while turning it back and forth, and it's out! Yay!

Ordered a new one from GM for $6.42

 

Well I got my LS1 caliper brackets for the front, and the threading is wrong for the bottom mounting hole. The bottom buttonhead bolt is a metric thread bolt, so I test fitted the bracket with both regular hex head 7/16-20 nf bolts, since I threaded the top and bottom holes the same. I used a 7/16 drill bit to make the bottom mounting hole big enough for the other bolt.

I'll have to get two more 7/16-20 bolts and just grind the heads down a bit to clear the caliper holder bracket.

I also have to cut more away from the spindle at the bottom mounting hole and along the side of the bracket to allow the caliper piston housing to clear the spindle and for the mounting holes to line up.

I am wondering what I should do about steering stops.

QUESTION: Are steering stops of some kind NEEDED? I hate the idea of the caliper banjo bolt acting as the steering stop on my setup (and therefore grinding the banjo bolt head down for clearance), but I also hate the idea of NOT having any kind of steering stop.

Any suggestions?

 

Cut em off and reweld them forward/backward.That or just remove them completely like I did. Also don't quote me on this but don't iroc/ws6 gear boxes come with built in stops?

 

I don't know if the stops are part of the gearbox. I'd check my a-arms for stops but they are still at the powder coating place, and I don't remember seeing stops on them. I'm sure they're there, though.

How is the steering without the stops on your car? Do the banjo bolts hit the a arms? What do you mean by "forward/backward"?

 

this build is great! cant wait to hear her purr!!! keep up the good work!

 

Thank you. It's coming along slowly. I am anxious to start her up. I still can't afford the heads and other parts yet.

I'm a bit confused about what to do about steering stops with the LS1 calipers. I should have stuck with the C5 calipers

 

I have no stops. Just have to get used to it or modify the stops which I plan to do later on. I read somewhere that some gear boxes come with built in stops but not 100% sure. My 86 base box feels perfect and has no slack which makes me want to keep it. Just have to be careful and not over steer.

If you have access to a welder just cut the tab and move it back/forward to where the banjo bolt is no longer a problem and now makes contact with it.

 

Months later: Thanks Carlos.

My swap project is at a stand-still right now.

 

sorry to hear that- hope everything works out.

 

Thanks Steven. Just need money.

 

on the Ls1 calipers are they Aluminum are steel and how hard is this conversion? seen a pair on eBay for $49 plus shipping I am working on a 86 Lt1 IROC Z thanks and how much for mounting bracket ?

 

go to flynbye.com thats where he got his stuff i beleive otherwise i think big brake upgrade has mounting brackets for it for the fronts. the backs you just have to cut the axle a little rethread some mounting holes and it pretty much bolts up. make sure to change your prop valve if you didnt originally have disc brakes on the rear though

 

 

ive been in this thread too long. sorry to hear bout the money issues bud, happens to all of us keep faith i know it wont be on hold long. the pride youve been taking in this build has inspired many and i know you cant wait to dive back into the car and get dirty

 

Some things came up, and I am selling my rolling chassis. Anybody who wants to do an LT1 swap interested? It's up for sale in the classifieds here. Most of the work is done.

 

Dude...

 

I know bro. It's a sad thing for me, but I know someone will enjoy the fruits of my labor.

On a happier note, I will be keeping my engine, at least.

 

sorry to hear it man! the best part of all the dog work is going for that first ride.well if things change for you, the next time will be a piece of cake!

 

Boooooo...... hang in there bro

 

I'm hanging in there.

 

sorry man. I hope all is well

 

All is well. I may not even be able to sell it, even though it's a nice car. We shall see.

Glad you're making progress on your swap!

If I do sell my stuff, I am going to buy a WS6 Trans Am one day.

 

It really pisses me off that I work my *** off and still never have enough money to do just a simple Camaro project.

 

What I'll probably end up doing is going with a 4th gen WS6.

Since I am keeping my engine, I will swap that sucker into the 4th gen.

This will ease the pain of me selling my 86 IROC.



Better days ahead.

 

This one:

 

Bad idea That iroc with that lt1 with the specs you say it has would out handle and out launch that ws6 any mother ****!n day of the week. Take that to the bank.

 

I'll sell you the car with the new 383 LT1 short block

I'll throw in a pair of LT1 heads and an intake too.

I need to get rid of this, unfortunately.

 

I saw your selling the shortblock alone, What about the heads? Got a pair laying around Tim? I might be interested.

 

Yes I have LT1 heads and an intake and fuel rails. Well, I will once I swap new heads and intake onto my 95 Formula.

 

Installed the powdercoated K member today, in the rain, and I also finished cleaning and painting my LS1 calipers and abutments last weekend:

Had to replace one of the pins for the abutment because it was rusted as heck and had to clean and clean and clean and clean the inside of the abutment because of all the rust, so the new pin could slide freely in there. I used a .44 caliber barrel brush to do this, and it worked pretty well. I cleaned the calipers by hand, and the gunk did not want to come off. I scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed for hours, and they still did not come as clean as I would have liked. The whole deal was a PITA, but they look better now with caliper paint on them.

The other day, I got the new longer studs and new races in the powdercoated hubs. I used the old races and a hammer to seat the new races. That was a PITA, too. On the two larger old races, I had to dremel them, once the new races were seated, to make a notch that would catch a punch, to get the damn things out of there. Still waiting for the spindles to be done at the sandblasting place. I refuse to clean those bastards by hand. I'm going to paint them with caliper paint, then I can assemble everything up front again.

I also painted my "wonderbar" red using the caliper paint. I'm going to paint the sway bar and K-member triangular braces, too. I'll probably just clean the springs up by hand before installing them.

Anyway, the front end will be all together soon. It should look nice. I'll post pics.

 

so your keeping it now??

 

No, I am just trying to afford putting the roller back together, so I can sell it as a complete roller.

My powdercoated parts weren't paid for yet, and I owed on that. My control arms hadn't had the bushings and ball joints installed yet, and I still owe nearly $100 for having that done.

Once that is paid and I get the struts, I can put it all together finally.

The only way I can keep the car is if my stocks hit .15 cents a share. THAT would be a nice break, for once in my life.

.50 cents a share would be EVEN BETTER. I'd not only be able to keep my project, but I'd also be a wealthy man.

Anyway, I also need to get the LS1 rotors and pads, and that's it.

 

What are u asking for it as it sits?

 

I am asking $2400.00 and it has the LS1 front brakes, powdercoated front end parts, plus It's totally LT1 ready.

All I have to do is get the A Arms from the place that put the Energy bushings and new ball joints in.

I can put the front end together On Saturday when I am off work.

I will not sell it with the powdercoated parts and other parts in a box. I want to at least have the satisfaction of putting it back together

 

It appears nobody wants to buy my car (they don't want to pay what I am asking for it). Everybody wants something for nothing. The powdercoated parts, alone, cost over $500.00. The LS1 brake conversion cost me $625, including the machining down of the stock hub/rotor parts, wheel bearings, brackets, and the brake pads and rotors

I got the A arms from the shop. Finally, the bushings and ball joints are in them.

I can't put the A arms on yet because I don't have all the bolts. I forgot about this. I destroyed two of them getting them the heck out when I was taking everything apart. They were rusted like crazy.

I got the A arm bolts and some Energy front end links coming from Spohn.

Here are some more pics. I finally finished the spindles and hubs and also put the triangle braces on the k member/frame of car.

I painted the centerlink and tie rods, too.

Those of you you have followed this never-ending thread know that I love to post pics. Here are some more:

 

My situation is complicated. Off topic post but oh well.

I got a 4th gen. 95 Formula with 4 bolt main Vette crate engine, new Bosch injectors, higher stall, 3" exhaust, and headers.

I don't like the wheels too much, and it needs to be lowered.

The previous owner put on a victory striping kit, and I am still deciding whether or not I like it.

I would like to get a WS6 spoiler/hatch and Ram Air with Ram Air hood. I'd like to put on some C5 deep dish wheels and new rubber all around. I'd also like to get the CETA rear bumper cover and paint the lower portion black and have the dual oval type tips on each side. I plan to get the Strano springs and honeycomb taillights. It would look bad *** like this.

Some LE2 heads and matching cam with 3.73+ gears and a higher stall (maybe a Yank 4000), and I'm in the 11s. That's plenty fast for me.

It's already way faster than the 87 IROC 350 I had. She purrs like a very large kitten.

No smoke from the tailpipes and zero ticking sounds from the engine. She runs like a raped ape.

And YES I am trying to figure out a way to keep my 86, and I am still working on getting the front end back together on it.

 

its a nice firebird, but the camaro is cooler IMO, glad to see you got what you wanted though