finally got my motor set back in the car...........i will post pics but server is down or something like that

 

Greetings from the Cody area fellow Wyomingite. Nice looking swap, hope to do one soon.

 

Hey someone from Wyoming, finally!! How's it going? And thanks. I hope for my swap to be done soon, hopefully sometime before I have a long grey beard...ha ha ha.

I'll get a lot of it done this year I am feeling.

What kind of swap are you wanting to do??

 

Yeah post pics on your thread, so we can see

 

I got my Lt1 runing then it need a radiator got a new one start it up and let it warm up then I got antifreeze on right side floor today I took the dash out and by the heater core was a big mice nest but no mice the heater core didnt look bad, I am having
it test at radiator shop they think it good I need a break also I was told today to cover the A C dryer connections with tape to keep the air out when doing a swap like this an less you have the new hoses right away cause the air can mess up the dryer

 

I totally deleted the AC, so no worries for me, with any of that stuff.

It's cool enough almost every day of the year up here in Wyoming, so I don't need AC in my car

It's pretty much gonna be an all business street machine.

I'm thinking about one day going with a Strange S60 rear. That'd be sweet. Overkill I think but still sweet.

 

My crankshaft finally arrived at the builder's shop. Now all I need are the pistons.

I went with a Howards Cams USA Track Smart 4340 forged, for a 1 piece rear main seal. 350 main and 3.750 stroke of course.

I did not want to convert to a 2-piece rear main seal because I hear those have nothing but problems/leaks and never work well for any length of time. There are a ton of 2 piece rear main seal cranks out there.

It wasn't too easy finding a 100% Made In the USA forged crank for a 1 piece rear main seal, but I did it!

The thing I really like about the Howards Cams crankshaft is that it is an American forging that is shipped to Callies for the machining/finishing process. That's a very good thing, in my book.

I think it's a very good crank for less than $600.00 and for my power goals.

It was cheaper than the connecting rods I bought.

I'm going with Mahle PowerPak -5cc flat top pistons. Those are barely less than $600 at CNC Motorsports.

I want to go with probably .045 quench/squish (piston to head clearance). I think that would be safe yet efficient. I'm still waiting for my heads to be done and don't know exactly what the combustion chamber volume will be yet, and I don't know how much the deck will need to be taken down yet, though I calculated .010, to get right around .045 piston to head clearance with the Mahle pistons, but again I think it depends on the cc of the combustion chambers.

Anyway, the short block should be done within the next few months!! I can't wait to see it and post pics of it here!

And I can't wait to get my Street and Performance alternator/PS pulley kit and bolt it onto the block. It's gonna look way nice, especially with a polished water pump.

 

Here's a pic: It's internally balanced, so I guess I need a "zero" or "neutral" balanced flywheel and factory balanced harmonic balancer.

 

it feels like christmas dont it

 

Yeah I'm broke he he he

 

i know but when its done it will be worth it. i just got my fuel lines today from purechoice. so much easier than tryin to order from jegs.

 

just want your input on lt1 swaps are you are should I use a catalatic convertor are just a pipe in place of catalatic I am using dougs shorty ceramic coated headers with a y-pipe and what brand of convertor I using the stock IROC Z exhuast pipe to the muffler and wanted it to bolt like the stock cataltic thanks

 

im usin heddman hedders and y pipe no cat and magnaflow 3inch exhaust. If your going to use a cat i would get a high flow one.

 

If you have to pass emmissions tests where you live, then you probably need a catalytic converter. If you want less restriction on your exhaust, go with a high flow converter, which are easy to find, like BiggTrav suggested.

If you do not need to pass emmissions, just use piping from the y-pipe all the way back.

I am still deciding on what exhaust I will use, but I know I don't need a catalytic convertor here in Wyoming . I am thinking I may go true duals. I still am not sure what I would gain, if anything, by going true dual. There are too many opinions about this. My guess is that it would flow, at least, a BIT more smoothly, worst case scenario.

 

I RAN INTO A PROBLEM WITH MY CRANK. I GUESS IN THE PROCESS OF PULLING THE HUB OFF I DESTROYED THE THREADS IN THE CRANK. I WAS WONDERIN WHAT YOU GUYS THINK WOULD BE THE EASIEST AND BEST WAY TO FIX THIS. I REALLY DONT WANNA PULL THE MOTOR OUT AND TAKE IT TO THE MACHINE SHOP BUT I F I HAVE TO I WILL. JUST TRYIN TO GET SOME IDEAS

 

possible to tap in new, slightly larger, threads? or if not TOO badly damaged try to use a tap to repair the threads. not sure if this is possible. most likely you'll have to drill out the hole to make it smooth (remove existing threads) then re-tap the holes for larger bolts. i dont know of anything else short of pulling the crank.

anyone else?

 

That sucks

I would carefully re-tap the threads with an original thread size tap and then run the bolts into the holes to make sure they thread in smoothly. This SHOULD work. If they thread into the holes nicely, then use some thread locker on them, and you should be good to go. I've fixed threads before using the original sized thread tap, and I thought sure it wouldn't work, but it DID WORK. It's worth a shot.

Drilling into the crank doesn't sound like something a guy would want to do.

I don't know the thread size, but you can find that out at the hardware store.

Try it, and if it doesn't work, I have a stock LT1 crank that is in very nice shape, with the threads in perfect condition still, after I took the balancer off of it. I'd sell it to you for pretty cheap.

Let us know how it works out.

 

Im ditching the guideplates in the heads and using self aligning rockers. Here are the studs I'm using for the rockers. 3/8 threads, for Ultra Pro Magnum full roller rockers.

My intake is at Lloyd Elliott's shop for porting and polishing. I'm also going with Lloyd's LE2 heads, rather than Advanced Induction heads.

I know I'll be happy with Lloyd's work. Better price than AI, too

 

I am in Casper here. Crazy to see a few people from the area!

 

My Camaro is parked right off of 2nd Street, across the street from Thomas Crawford Auto. Maybe you've seen it. I have a long way to go on my swap and even longer to make the car look nice and new.

 

i got my crank fixed i just tapped it out to 1/2 by 20 thread. didnt have to drill it either. it was hard to get started but once it was it went right in. another thing i was wonder is since you got ur harness from pocket did he move your relays so they would go behind the battery. mine are and it doesnt look like the bracket he sent with it will fit and clear my battery,

 

I'm glad you got the crank fixed. That's a good thing.

As far as the harness, I am not sure how everything will lie in the engine bay, once it is all plugged in, as I haven't messed with the wiring yet. I'm still in the process of getting my short block built he he he.

I would say that if the bracket won't clear the battery then you will have to get a different bracket or modify the bracket or try positioning the existing relays/bracket in another location.

Post on your thread how it works out, if you want

 

((( I got newer relays form a S 10 chevy and mount mine on left side of firewall but I live in Wiconsin Rust Belt the mounting bracket almost worn with rust I will go to Salavge yard and look a better mounting bracket and on my old stock relay mount I mounted the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulater

 

I got the "on the rail" Aeromotive regulator

 

Got my Mahle pistons ordered. Now all I need is the flywheel, so my builder can balance the rotating assembly.

I'm going to get a McLeod steel flywheel and RST twin disc clutch, when money allows.

The guy at McLeod said I'd be happier, in the long run, with the twin disc setup.

 

Pistons finally shipped out to my engine builder.

Now I just need a flywheel, so my rotating assembly can be balanced.

Also, I spent the other night mocking up a cool air intake box from foamboard. It's going to be made from 1/8" aluminum and will be totally sealed, except for the 4" tube on the bottom.

Once it's done, it will fit right above the battery tray up front on the driver's side. I cut a 5" square out of the tray.

Intake tube will be 3.5", and I'm running a 4" tube down through the 5" square hole I made, to suck cooler air into the engine. I'll be using a K & N cone filter.

I was amazed when I put my hand down through the hole in the battery tray, and I could feel that it was way cooler under there than it was in the engine bay. I imagine the hot sun beaming down into the engine bay sort of simulated heat from an engine. The air underneath the battery tray was WAY cooler. Again, I was totally amazed.

Anyway, I'll post pics when the airbox is done.

 

Here's the hole I cut for my cool air intake's 4" tube inlet. I'll probably put some rubber stripping around the edges:



And here is my still empty engine bay. I should probably order my polished radiator shroud and work on fitting the radiator and shroud onto the car. I should probably also clean up and paint my steering box. One of these days I'm going to tear apart the front end and install the Energy bushings and C4 brakes (still gotta buy the brakes):

 

Here is the "cool air" box mocked up with foamboard. I'll have better pics when it's all done out of aluminum, and the piping is welded to it, and it will have a sealed "bolt down" lid on it, too, for easy access to the filter. What do you guys think?

 

Here are some pics of my intake, after Lloyd got done with it. Can't wait to have the heads!

 

nice!

 

Thanks!

I found out that Lloyd doesn't bead blast the intakes. He scrubs them clean and then opens up the throttle body bores and takes a lot of material out of the rest of the intakes, to open them up.

I'm thinking about painting the intake, at least, the portion that is visible once the fuel rail covers are on it. I may even polish some of it. Not sure yet.

The most important thing is that it will now better feed my 383

 

does any on here know what size the bolts are for a 96 intake there smaller than the ones for my 93 and i dont wanna take the intake back off

 

That's weird. They should be the same thread size.

 

3/8 x 16

All LT1s and SBCs use the same intake bolts

 

sorry didnt explain it good enough i was talkin about the bolts that hold the fuel rails down

 

I do not know on the LT1 but on the TPI they are 8mmx1.25 thread. This may or may not be of help to you.

 

M6-1.0x30mm
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...bolt-size.html

 

Ah the fuel rail bolts could be different lengths if fuel rail covers are used, but I am not sure.

 

-Waiting for my builder to finish the engine.

He is known to take his time, but he builds solid engines.

-Lloyd is done with the machine work on my heads and is awaiting a deposit from me, so he can get the valves and springs and install them.

-Also, I gotta pay Hawk's for my T56 rebuild.

--so many things to do and not enough money.

 

Wow....just read about your build from the start. Very meticulous and clean, I love it. Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks h1! I'm just plugging away one thing at a time pretty much.

 

i just found out that 93 lt1 fuel rails are narrower than a 96 thats why the bolts wouldnt go in. and just found out that i have to modify my harness that i had pocket build.i guess thats what happens when u get into a swap like this

 

this is where im at so far i just have to finish hookin the radiator up and fuel rails and i think if i just take the stock bracket and weld a plate in and make a new hole i can use the stock throttle cable

 

A simple swap turned to insanity... very clean and meticulous work, great job! I haven't posted much, but I've been watching!

 

Hey Brisk! Thanks! Yeah it's driving me fairly insane but its kinda fun. How have you been?

 

It's not just lack of money. It's trying to find the time to do things for the swap, with work and school and family stuff.

I really want to do a leak test on my proportioning valve plumbing. It keeps nagging me. I'll feel much better when I know it does not leak and that I don't have to recut and reflare any lines.

I've also been looking into getting the passenger rear quarter panel fixed and replacing the fender on the same side, while also getting the engine bay professionally painted.

 

Here's my Mahle flat tops
-5cc
4.030
for 6 inch rods
forged 4032 (I finally decided on this material)

They seem like good pistons.





My builder seems irritated at me for wanting to build a 12:1 compression engine for pump fuel.

Both Advanced Induction and Lloyd Elliott tell me that this is totally safe, due to the reverse cooling of the LT1 and the aluminum heads, not to mention the large camshaft I will be running. It makes sense.

If I zero deck the block, the compression will be 12.45:1 with a .039 head gasket, and
Llloyd Elliott assures me that even 12.5:1 is not a problem, on pump fuel, on the LT1, especially a 383 with a larger cam. Many guys have run this high a compression on pump gas with no problems. Amazing.

I may keep the pistons down in the hole like .015 or something, to keep it right around 12:1, but if I use a thinner head gasket than .039, my compression will be back up anyway. See, I want to keep my "quench" right around .040.

I know I know.....I'm being picky, but that's how I am.

 

Ordered a good amount of stuff recently.

-Scorpion self aligning 1.6 aluminum rocker arms
-Topline anti-pump-up hydraulic roller lifters
-New Professional Products 58mm throttle body-good deal for just over $200 shipped
-LTCC ignition box with plug and play harness (expensive little rascal)
-3" air intake tubing and coupling pieces (still need to finish the aluminum airbox)
-polished 4th gen radiator hold down shroud-gonna have to cut it but no biggy
-T56 slave spacer piece
-bellhousing to block bolts and shifter plate bolts
-also got the messed up used Pro 5.0 shifter lever cut and rethreaded--some idiot cut the old threads off of it and put a universal set nut type **** on it, and they didn't even cut it straight. Weird.
-got a nice shift **** off of ebay
-dropped $500 towards my tranny build
-also my hood is at a local body shop getting massaged back into perfect shape

I still gotta order a bunch of parts. It seems never ending.

Next I'll order the modded fourth gen pedals from Hawks, and I still gotta pay Lloyd some money for the heads, which are all machined and done (55cc chambers and 205cc runners) but have no parts in them yet.

Lloyd told me to run a 244/254 camshaft, if I'm going to stick with the Mahle pistons and have 12.4ish to 1 compression.

Man, this thing's getting more and more nasty, with each passing day.

I found some GM 4.30 gears for $100, too I may just get them. Should be great with the T56 in front of them.

Cheers!

 

Now thats what i call an update

Getting closer and closer, tell your engine builder to step on it, i want to see how this motor turns out!

 

He he me too! I'm dying to see it in my engine bay.

Hey did u use the third gen radiator rubber grommets (the bottom two grommets) to install the radiator into your car?