yesir.

you have to cut off the tabs that mount it to the body since they wont be in the same spot. worked great!

 

Cool thanks! So they just rest on the frame and aren't mounted To the frame in any way?

 

Nope, when you tighten down the shroud it holds the radiator firmly into place.

they wont go anywhere

 

Ok that's what I thought. Cool.

 

Crap I can't find my third gen rubber grommets for the bottom of the radiator. I know I kept them when I removed the third gen radiator.

Hate when I can't find stuff I need.

Worked on putting my new regulator onto the fuel rails. I discovered it will be easier to do if I first mount the rails to the intake. I'll post pics of this exciting little project (I'm being sarcastic).

Been waiting and waiting and waiting for my builder to finish my short block. His shop is a one-man operation, so I'm being patient with him. Can't wait to post pics of the finished short block here.

 

Look around your shop area, theres plenty of alternatives. I used 3/4" fanfold for siding when test fitting

 

Hey whatever works.

Oh and I forgot to mention I paid my engine builder all that was owed, for him to build my short block....FINALLY. He's been waiting on combustion chamber specs from me, before he decks the block. Lloyd told me they're 55cc chambers.

Every time I get ready to work on my car, something comes up. Spent most of my time today looking for the rubber grommets for my radiator, and I didn't even find them. Oh well. It'll get done sooner or later.

I haven't received any parts in the mail yet. I gotta go to the machine shop across town and pick up my shifter lever (the one a previous owner hacked up)....they rethreaded it for me with 1/2-20 threads, and now I gotta get an adapter so it will have 16mm x 1.5 threads on the outside, for the shift **** I ordered. The only place I found that has this adapter is Gennie Shifter. Weird.

I can't wait to open the boxes up and see the shiny new parts. The excitement lasts a few days for me then it's gone , until I order more parts he he he

The place from which I bought the LTCC ignition box actually builds the things to order, so that will take a while. Not like I need it right now or anything, but, at least, I'll have it when I do need it....another notch on the tree he he he

 

I believe Firebat(don't quote me on that) used end link bushings to mock up his radiator.

 

In my limited time, I put the new regulator onto the fuel rails and put the fuel rails on the intake. It required a little cutting and drilling, but it was pretty easy.

I also crammed that new PCV grommet into the intake. It didn't go in too easy.

I also got my shifter lever back with threads on it now!! Yay!!

I have to assemble the shifter still (see pic below), and I'm using white lithium grease. Just not sure if I need to grease the plastic cup at the bottom of the shifter.





Disassembled Pro 5.0 shifter

 

I just love shiny new parts. ahhhhh yesssss Got my Topline lifters, too, but no pics of those. Those are boring he he he (but I hear they are darn good hydraulic roller lifters).

Scorpion 1.6 narrow body self aligning full roller rockers


Made in the U.S.A.

 

Been working on my air intake system lately. I changed my mind about doing a box. Waste of space. I decided to just hook it up to a flange that will connect to the battery tray, and the filter will connect to the bottom of the flange, on the outside of the engine bay

The last pic shows it all.

I ordered a black powdercoated aluminum elbow for the throttle body and also ordered the piping with a 45 degree bend in it, to go to a 4 to 3 silicone elbow. I got the silicone elbow ordered, too. I will have to use a shorter 45 degree piece to connect to the piping coming from the MAF side of the intake to the 4 to 3 90 degree elbow coming off the battery tray area.

PICS:

See below a pic of my 4-inch inside diameter "flange" that will go into the car, as shown in the pic. Then a pic of the inside of the flange after I polished it with sandpaper. Then a pic of me holding the part. Then a pic of a drawing of what the intake will look like, while looking at the front of the car.

I'll need a 4" flanged K & N air filter. It's gonna be pretty big. I don't want airflow to the large cammed 383 to be a problem. I don't think it will be.

I also got the TPIS high flow maf housing pieces. It'll look nice and should increase airflow through the 3" MAF.

So, to summarize, it'll be 3" air piping to a 4 inch flange, via a reducer elbow, with a 4 inch flanged K & N filter. I think this will flow plenty of air for a 500 horsepower 383.








This is basically what the cold air intake will look like, when it's done. I hope the 45's don't restrict airflow too much. It should be fine I think.

 

And here is my shifter all reassembled and clean, with the nice shift **** I got off of Ebay. I am wondering how far up the Pro 5.0 power tower will stick through the tunnel. Been wondering this for forever.

Also a pic of my new throttle body. Nice piece for $150 less than BBK or Holley.

Also, a pic of my beautiful wife, Christina. She's wearing the Summit hat that came for free, with my last order he he he. She's very supportive of me, in my Camaro project. That's why I love her (well, that's not the ONLY reason). Hope you don't mind me showing her off a bit.

 

Anyway, it's nice to be putting things together, rather than taking things apart, like in the beginning.

Makes it seem closer to being done.

 

All the parts for my intake should be here soon, and my LTCC ignition module and harness are finally on their way. And I'm still waiting and waiting and waiting for the one-man team to finish my short-block. Sigh.

I still need to buy:

-255 fuel pump
-posi, gears, axles
-Vette front brakes
-tranny crossmember with torque arm
-clutch fork
-the box that converts the t56 speedo signal to mechanical
-pulley kit with power steering pump and alternator
-headers
-exhaust
-struts
-shocks


gotta pay for the heads and part of the tranny rebuild, too, as well as the coil brackets (they are taking FOREVER to cut them for me....sheesh). Not like I am in dire need of them.

 

4" tube will flow plenty, remember the MAF is 3.5" in/out

Wish summit would send me a hat, Im sure i spend enough there

 

Shoot all the piping and clamps and couplings I got are 3".

I knew I should have just measured the dang MAF rather than going by what the internet says (which says 3"). Now I gotta return all the stuff and get 3.5 inch everything. Kind of a pain. Maybe the clamps will be OK. I'll have to check that.

Pocket, thank you for reminding me about this. I appreciate it

 

Got my throttle body elbow and EGR block off plates today.

And the biggest thing I got today was the LTCC kit. FINALLY got it! Been waiting forever to afford it. So I got everything for the ignition except for the wires and plugs now. Yay!!

The elbow was like $49 on Ebay, as compared to others I've seen for $75 and even $139! Why pay so much for this part? I definitely wanted to replace the stock rubber intake elbow with something smoother, for as cheap as possible, as it seems restrictive with all the accordian folds in it.

 

Hey Pocket I could send you one of mine. he he he

 

Modified my MAF sensor for the tpis flow housings...cut out the vertical plastic "crosshairs" to open it up a bit more and allow the two housing ends to mesh together inside the MAF sensor (see pic below).

Got my block off plates on (see pic).

Also see pic of my TB elbow below. I haven't taken the LTCC stuff out of the box yet. I don't wanna mess with it until I install it all.

Question: The little silver clip (last pic below) on my FPR is not tight on there, but it was on the stock regulator. It spins around on the little flange for the return line. Think this is OK?

I'm thinking the pressure in the fuel system will push the o-ringed line out and make it tighter but not sure.







The silver clip spins around easily on the little flange of the FPR. I am guessing this won't matter.

 

And this piece was too big in diameter for my 4 inch elbow to fit onto it, so now I have to make one with an outside diameter no bigger than 4 inches. Shoot!

 

ummm you have a hot wife, she models the hot very well. very nice job on the car so far and i love the air filter idea, ill be using this as reference eventually

 

Yes yes I agree . Thank you bro. she looks way cute in the hat, too. I'm a lucky man.

Yeah I thought the intake Idea was pretty good. It should work well. I'll go into more detail about it when I put it all together after cutting the piping and all that.

What's your next project?

 

one question about it thogh, why dont you just cout out that whole tray and weld in a new smooth one, because honestly all the mounting holes from the deleted emission cannissotr takes away from the whole appeal of the intake

 

Yeah true. I could also just put a polished piece of steel sheet metal in there first so it looks cleaner. For me it would be easier to do that than welding a tray in there....and it would still look nice.

As long as it sucks in cool air I'm happy

Just wish I could have a few days to just work on my car so I could get some stuff done. All in good time.....all in good time.

 

right im just saying a nice flat pice of steel in there around the filter thingy, would look nice to get away from those ugly mounting holes, wether you cut that out and put a new piece in or whatever, just a suggestion, wether you take it or not and how far you want to go into it is your choice

 

I appreciate the suggestion. I never thought of that before. I'll do something cool with it for sure.

I wish my short block would get finished up!!! Waiting and waiting.

 

im pretty anxious too, seeing as this is your first swap your doin a damn fine job

 

Thanks! It's definitely a work in progress.

 

Give your builder a call everyday, and it will be done in no time. I have no problem with someone taking their time and check everything twice, but this is alittle excessive dont you think.

I also love your CAI idea!

 

Thanks! Yeah I thought it was better than using a box. That's a waste of space. I'll give my builder a call today.

 

Called my builder. He hasn't even started on my short block yet. He's always busy working on someone else's stuff.

It'll get done one day. I've given him $1250.00. Align boring, decking, clearancing, balancing, studding isn't cheap I guess.

I went with the polished Ansen valve covers, rather than the flat black ones. SOOOO, the engine will sort of look like the pic below, but the coil will be relocated and the power steering pump will be at 2 Oclock, and the alternator will be at 10 Oclock, and it will be a smaller polished alternator, and the pulleys will be polished and stuff, and I am NOT doing an electric water pump:



Still gotta ship back the silicon elbow and piping and clamps for my intake, which are too small

 

why don't you stop by his shop with doughnuts or something? then maybe he'll feel bad and do it....then next time use another shop.....the economy can't be that good for him can it?

 

He he good idea. He's the only good shop in town. The other shop kinda sucks. I'd rather wait and have a good engine.

 

With that kind of money shelled out, I dont see why you didnt save up a little longer for a LSx

 

Poor planning on my part Pocket. It'll be plenty fast with the LT1 I'm building, even though it won't be as good as an LS1.

 

I guess once you start modding, you just go on auto pilot.

 

Pocket has a valid point. I could've done an LSX, for the money I am spending. All I can say is, "Oh well."

What started as a simple LT1 swap has turned into a bigger and more involved project than I initially wanted to do, but it should be a sweet running LT1 and have lots of torque .

I really don't feel like selling my engine to get an LSX, after all the planning and parts buying I've done. This LT1 will put out more power than most LSX's around here, with the exception of the turbocharged Lingenfelter Vette that's in town.

Yeah an LSX would be "nicer," but my car should turn out pretty nice, though.

It won't be an LS1, but it'll be nice enough for me. It will be a pretty cool Camaro here in Casper, where most guys have old school hot rods or older cars with LSX's in them, and all the third gens I've seen around here are "beaters."

You don't see too many modded LT1's here, nor do you see any really nice third gen Camaros. The LT1 is a great engine, in my opinion, and I'm happy with my choice.

Just can't wait to get it all together and running.

 

Does anyone know what this line is for? Whatever it is, it broke in the middle at the plastic coupling. I think it's either for the EGR or the AC or purge valve or something. There is nowhere on the manifold for it to thread into, so I am thinking it belongs in the trash now.




STILL waiting for the darn machine shop to cut my coil brackets. I know they're behind but sheesh!!! Returned all the wrong parts I ordered from Summit (the intake parts) and got the correct parts on the swap sheet for Summit.

 

the pic wont show, but if your talking about the little black box on the passenger side of the manifold with a few vacuum lines in it, it can be thrown away since im guessing your tuning out all the emissions.

 

Pic reposted. I don't know what it connected to before, but I am pretty sure I don't need it or anything else to which it was attached. I have a feeling it's a AC line but I'm not sure.

 

its an AC line

 

Looks like AC, but dont know for sure. I dont recall seeing plastic on any AC lines before

 

Whatever it is I'm sure I don't need it. If it is an AC line, I deleted my AC, so I won't need it anyway..

Spent a few hours today cleaning the LS1 coils and optispark, which was caked with crud.

Been waiting for what seems like forever for the machine shop to cut the coil brackets according to my template. I'm starting to wonder if they will EVER do the job for me.

I'd cut them myself with a dremel or whatever, but I want them to be CLEAN. I'm picky.

 

QUESTION: Does the nose of the camshaft fit into that round piece on the optispark? I guess the LT1 cams have a special nose on them to fit this?

I don't remember what it all was when I took it apart.

I think the gear that bolts to the cam fits the face of that piece on the opti, too, but I can't find the darn gear/sprocket.

Oh well, I'm getting a new Cloyes anyway.

 

OK I get it. The timing set for the LT1 will have the correct pattern for the newer style opti on the cam sprocket.

I'm going with a Cloyes roller set

 

All the "little" parts of this swap are driving me nuts.

I actually used my brain and finally figured out how to unscrew those darn T-4 male torx head screws on the opti.

I used one of the little torx head bolts from the old Throttle Body AIC and some vicegrips to unscrew the bolts in the optispark.

I might cut the opti rotor down to just the bottom round part since, from what I have read, these rotors tend to shatter above 6,000 rpms.

My 383 will be rev limited at around 6,800 by both the PCM and the LTCC.

Started fitting the 4th gen radiator into the car yesterday and today. The 4th gen polished shroud is weird and either needs to be bent for it to line up with the angle of the frame, or I will just use the supplied spacers and live with that gap between the frame and the shroud. It'll be harder than I thought to make the polished shroud fit the way I want it to.

Also FINALLY made my throttle cable bracket for the firewall today (pics below), since the third gen hole doesn't hold the LT1 throttle cable securely at all. Just have to cut it down and drill holes in the corners so I can fasten it to the firewall.





Not the greatest dremel work, but the darn part works! I cut another round thick paper gasket to keep the cable doo hicky even tighter against the sheet metal. Man, I've been wanting to make this part for many many months, and I FINALLY frickin' did it!!

 

Here's the opti stuff I am talking about, which I haven't seen addressed anywhere else (I find this odd). The LTCC articles all say "you can remove the rotor from the opti when running the LTCC ignition."

WELL: the rotor holds down the thin metal round things that go into the cam sensor, and the cam sensor part of the opti is still used when running LTCC ignition.

BUT: these opti rotors tend to shatter above 6,000 rpms, so I have read.

SO: I cut the rotor down to just the base of it and used it to hold down the round metal parts for the cam sensor.

I guess this will solve the "shattering rotor at higher rpms problem."

And the reason why I didn't just use the screws to hold down the round metal sensor parts is because they are too long and go down too far, without the added space of the rotor base, and they hit stuff under the round parts and hinder the rotation of all the round parts.

I have been meaning to ask what KillJ0Y did with his opti guts, since he is running the LTCC, too.

 

ltcc? is that the abbreviation for lt coil conversion?
otherwise all the swap threads ive read most people have a substaintial amount of time dedicated on the small stuff so dont sweat it

 

Got your pm, the main reason they shatter, is due to the bolts holding the rotor not being tight enough and then letting loose in the cap, and obviously shattering. Since i put the engine together from the start, i took the liberty of red loc-titing the rotor screws to avoid this.

I built my engine back in april-may, didnt plan on doing the LTCC until begining of sept. Right now, i really dont want to rip off the water pump, drain fluid, rent a pulley puller, pull the hub, blah blah only to re-open the opti that i sealed with silicone, to only remove the rotor.

I feel its secure enough for 6400rpms where my engine tappers off anyway. I think what you have done is a good idea, and i would have gone that route too if my opti was out to begin with. Just make sure when you put it back together, loc-tite it, then seal the cap with silicone to prevent any fluid getting in.

 

LTCC is LT coil per cylinder I aint sweatin' nuthin except for trying to find money to finish this swap