As for the motor mounts, you don't have to take the A-arms off. You can for more clearance, but you can work around it. I just used a long wrench, and my finger tips. And maybe a swivel socket would help too.

And as far as the shocks go, I put KYBs non adjustable in the front about 2 years ago and they're pretty inexpensive and they've served me very well. Much smoother ride.

Superfly- very clean harness! I just sent mine to pocket last week, now I can't wait to get it back.

 

Thanks cprmn14. It took me forever to finally afford my harness from Pocket. The wait was well worthwhile, though. Pocket did a great job on it.

I'll take the clamshells off once I get the A-arms off, since I have to take them off to do the bushings, anyway. It should be a lot easier to get up under the k-member with those out of the way.

Whatever struts I get, they'll be better than the old ones on there now, for sure.

I looked at air tools and electric tools today....yeah....I need to get one or the other, for sure.

I am thinking, for my brake upgrade, the C4 brakes. It seems to be the cheapest route, and it appears everything I need for a simple install is included in the kit at flynbye performance: not sure if I have to send my spindle assemblies in or not. Calling them tomorrow cuz I'm curious.

 

I went with a LS1 conversion on the front. It was cheap for me cause I have lots of good friends to do things like machine the stuff need and plasma tables for brackets. Either way will be a good improvement over the factory stuff.

 

That's cool. Yeah, the C4 brakes will definitely be better, and I'm sticking with the stock calipers on the 4th gen rear end....the rotors are just a tad smaller than the C4's. Just need to get the stockers turned. I think running full pressure up front and a comfy pressure in the back will be fine.

I'm also thinking about returning the Energy motor mount inserts and just going with stock replacements, so the engine won't vibrate inside the car as much.

 

hopefully i can get my motor back in my car this weekend so i can start addressing my fuel lines. thats the only thing i havent figured out. im not sure wich an fitttins will screw into my factory lines or do i have to cut them and flare them

 

Purechoice has a kit that will attach right to your factory lines, if you don't want to cut them. I don't want to run my fuel lines from the stock location of the hard lines, so I got extra fittings from Purechoice, as well as their flaring tool kit. Go back a page or two on this thread (post # 185) and you'll find a complete list of part numbers from Purechoice that I am using...or just call them. They will help you...theyre great there.

 

I second that. Call purechoice and they can set you up for sure.

Reasonably priced too!

 

i looked At there website but they dont have prices on it. all i need is the two quick connects. i got a guy at oreillys tryin to get me some russel an fittings

 

What are you going to run for a prop valve? I put S10 rear brakes on my original 10 bolt axle so I got the same basic caliper and drum parking brake but 11.6" rotors. I am also using a Willwoood prop valve which replaced the whole prop valve, looks very clean.

I also debated on poly MM, but decided to keep the stockers for the same reason.

 

I was hoping full pressure to the C4 brakes and my Wilwood prop valve for the 4th gen rear discs would work but not sure if that'll be OK.

 

You should run full pressure to the front brakes and use the Willwoood prop valve for the rears. Just follow the Willwood adjustment procedures and enjoy excellent braking.

 

cool that was my plan

 

Got my fuel pressure regulator. Nice piece.

I'm a bit confused as to why the metal bracket is facing a different way than on all the install pics I've seen for this part.

You can see the difference between my pic and an installed pic below.

All the pics I've seen show the bracket's 90 degree bend going toward the passenger side of the vehicle, and I can't mount the bracket the other way because the cutout on the bracket only matches the fuel return fitting on one side.

I think it will still mount and line up with the fuel rail inlet. I'll have to tear into my fuel rail and see if it mounts properly. Maybe Aeromotive changed the bracket to make the angle of the regulator less slanted. Weird.

 

I figured it out. I ordered the regulator that fits the 92-96 Vette. The only difference between this one and the 4th gen F-Body one is the bracket. Guess I'll have to call Aeromotive and have them send me the other bracket.

OOPS

 

I just read through your whole thread and it has really inspired me to get working on my camaro. I am only swapping my 305 TBI out of my 88 into my 91 but I only drove my 88 for 5 minutes at about 10 km/h before tearing it apart so just getting to drive it will be a great feeling for me. I'd like to do an LT1 or LS1 swap later on and I am leaning more towards the LT1 because it seems to be reasonably cheaper to do.

I was wondering if you could swap the 4th gen lt1 gas tank into a 3rd gen because I always see guys doing that for ls1 swaps. Are the tanks different? Or why dont you do that for an lt1 swap?

Great thread man and I can't wait to see it all together! Your engine sounds like it'll be a beauty!

 

Cool Sean! I am glad my thread has inspired you. I wish things were moving along faster, but it'll be done when it's done.

I wouldn't swap in the newer gas tank...not necessary. I am not sure why guys would swap the tanks for LT1's, to be honest. There may be a good reason for the LS1's though. Not sure.

The tank merely holds the fuel. It's the pump that sometimes needs attention, depending upon your engine's performance goals. You could just swap in a new fuel pump and possibly a better harness/relay for it, and call it good. You probably don't even need to do that, since your engine is a TBI, and I assume you aren't going to build your engine up. I am using an upgraded 255 Walbro pump and Racetronix harness/relay kit because my engine will need better fuel delivery because of the mods I'm doing to it.

I recently discovered that the upgraded Walbro pump needs more voltage to flow optimally, and that is why I need the upgraded wiring and relay. It needs 13.5 volts or something like that to flow as advertised. The stock wiring doesn't cut it for this requirement.

I got hurt at work a few days ago. A 3,000 pound drilling motor fell off the forks of a forklift and crushed my thigh between itself and another motor that was on my trailer. I deliver tools and stuff to oil rigs. Not much time for myself, but it's good money.

I will never again get up on my trailer while the lift is loading stuff onto it. I made a poor decision, and I am lucky my leg was not snapped in half or ripped off. I was afraid to look down at my leg after the motor fell onto it. It went numb instantly then began hurting like I've never felt before. I thought sure it was broken or ripped off at the knee. It hurt like a mother effer when that motor came down on my leg. I'll be limping around for a while, for sure, as the pain in my leg near my knee is quite bad still.

My car's transformation will take longer than some others, since I am picky and want it the way I want it, and since it will cost me around $9,000 (not including bodywork and paint), when it's all done. I've got about $2,500 into it, so far, including the purchase of a T-56 tranny for $800.

Hope to see a thread started soon, on your swap.

Got my valve covers the other day from Ansen. They actually had them in black.

 

Those are some sexy valve covers!

I think the tank swap for an LS1 was because it is plastic (unless I am mistaken) so it is lighter than our metal tank and it pretty much bolts right in with the fuel pump that would be needed for the LS1.

I haven't researched it all that much, it's just what I've seen people do on their threads. Either way your still getting the gas to the beast up front anways.

I do have a build thread for my engine swap between cars but since I am still in high school (about to grad) and without a job, I wont be doing an LS/LT engine swap any time soon. I just want to get the car done and driving so I can take it to grad and show all the guys with the imports what it is like to drive a real car that has TORQUE!

 

Here is the link to my minor build with the 91 RS:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...rs-camaro.html

I haven't had any money for parts lately but I have some birthday money left over so that will be going towards the cam and lifters I need and I'll also be picking up a set of header bolts and gaskets to bolt me used 'no name' headers on.

Did your car have A/C to begin with? If so, when removing it what all did you have to swap? I know there is the A/C delete box on the fire wall and the A/C delete pulley but is there anything else I need to swap or will my heater controls and all the other stuff work just fine?

 

Two reasons:

Emissions.

California.

 

I yanked out all the AC stuff, the lines, the condenser, the drier canister or whatever it was, and the compressor/pulley, and I'm doing the same on my LT1. It's nice to not need AC up here in Wyoming...less weight and less drag for my engine.

I'm not running a delete pulley at all. I am using a power steering/alternator setup from street and performance that relocates the power steering and alternator and also uses a smaller alternator that puts out the same amps as the stock LT1 alternator. I will use a remote reservoir for the power steering and braided lines with AN fittings for the ps lines. You probably already saw my reservoir from Zoops earlier in my thread.

The setup, including the ps pump, alternator, corvette balancer, pulleys, etc., will set me back right around $850.

It's going to look way better/cleaner than a stock LT1, in my opinion, which is what I want for sure. I hate that bulky bracket on the stock LT1, and I don't care for how high the alternator sits.

My coil brackets should be done soon, and I'll post pics of them and maybe how they'll sit above the valve covers, as well. I'm going with billet coil covers now, since I got the black valve covers. I think these will offset nicely with the satin aluminum intake, aluminum coil brackets, and black valve covers.

 

And there's the answer.

 

Ok guys should I put the breather sides of the valve covers in the back or in the front? I am leaning towards the back because I think it may look better that way with the coil brackets and coils.

Any opinions?

I'm sure glad Ansen ended up having the black valve covers in stock.

 

I would put it on the back just so there isn't a breather sitting infront of those coils. Especially if you are going to be spending the money on billet covers and all those shiny goodies. Other than looks it doesn't really matter where it goes does it? I have no idea but I don't think it makes any difference mechanical wise does it?

 

just wondered what trodle cabel you used my lt1 into a86Iroc z the cabel is little bit short are have rework the lt1 trodel bracket thanks

 

I believe you can use the third gen TPI cable or a factory LT1 cable. I am not 100% positive but I am pretty sure that's what I heard in some other threads. (don't hold me to it though.)

 

It's easiest to use a 4th gen (LT1) throttle cable, since the end matches the throttle linkage on the LT1 throttle body. You just need to make a bracket to hold the cable onto the firewall tightly. This is what I'm doing. I'm making a small bracket from sheet metal with a smaller hole in it to mount the cable to the firewall securely. I'll have pics when I'm done with it soon here.

I believe you can change the linkage on the LT1 throttle body to match the TPI throttle cable end, but I think it's easier to just use an LT1 cable.

And the breather placement on the valve covers doesn't matter...I was mostly concerned with how it looks and also where I am drilling the holes for the vertical supports in my coil brackets, so the brackets don't hit the breathers.

 

I'm sure it's going to look amazing with all these details you are doing!

 

I am sure it will look pretty nice. I want it to look like it's supposed to be the way it will be and not "rigged" ya know.

 

For sure man!

I've thought about doing a bare bones swap with an ls1, doing it as cheap and easily as possible but then it doesnt look at nice and you are guaranteed to see that it was a quick job. Make it like good and do it right the first time and you'll love it! I can't wait to afford to do a swap.

 

It took a while for me to find a donor car I could afford and now it's taking forever for me to afford all the parts and stuff I wanna do with my swap.

You'll get there.

 

ordered a new tie rod also.....ruined the threads on one of them trying to get it off the centerlink.

 

A number of things are happening.

My T-56 tranny finally shipped out to Hawks, as well as the 4th gen pedals. The guy from whom I bought the tranny and related parts kept telling me the stuff was shipped but wouldn't give me tracking numbers. I had started to think I got scammed.

I finally got a straight answer as to where he took the stuff to get it shipped out. The lady there told me it all shipped out and gave me tracking numbers, so I'm happy now.

The other parts (shifter, flywheel, lower boot, etc.) for the T56 are on their way directly to me.

Hawks is going to do a rebuild for me. $999.00 for this, and the pedal mod Bruce is doing is around $60 plus the cost of the pigtails that may not be with the pedals that shipped out. The pedals will bolt right to the existing location in the car and will fit perfectly, according to Bruce.

I am sending some nice chunks of money to Hawks and to AI (for the heads) soon. Still won't be paid in full, but progress is progress I guess.

I bought an angle grinder the other day for $29.00, to use as a cutter for cutting my tranny tunnel hole. I've been putting off buying one of these for years.

I also got my ignition wire looms for my valve covers. They shipped them to me for $69 total. I got the vertical style with aluminum brackets from R & M Specialties. I'm going to use Taylor horizontals to mount to my coil brackets.

I can't wait for the day when I am installing these onto my engine, as one of the last steps. It seems far far away.

 

moving along nicely man!

cant wait to finally see that LTx.

 

You and me both, brother. You and me both.

 

[QUOTE=New2Chevy;4885656]Nice Supr_fly03. You're more ambitious than me, doing all the wiring yourself. Very nice job!

QUESTION to ponder: I'm wondering if I should convert my fuel rails to parallel, rather than series, or if this mod would be overkill.

This one article talks about LT1's with over 350 horsepower not being able to support such power with the stock, series fuel rail setup.

I think just an aeromotive "on the rail" regulator with the rails still in series would be enough of a mod to handle my new engine's power (around 500 hp).

Here's a pic of the rough setup with parallel fuel rails and an external regulator:



I converted my fuel rails to run parallel. I an8 comin in to each fuel rail and an6 from each going to the regulator. I plan to run near650 hp so I wanted to go this route from the start rather then come back to it later.

I can post pics if you are interested. I'm 95% done with the fuel lines.

 

Yes, I'd like to see pics of your parallel setup.

I decided I'm going to run series with the on the rail Aeromotive regulator, and I shouldn't have any issues.

Pocket told me guys are successfully running way over 1,000 hp on series rails, so I figured I'd be ok with only 500 hp n/a or 650 with nitrous.

[quote=SomeGuy25thZ;4926893]

 

Ok another change in engine build plans!!

The Manley crank I picked is for a 2 piece rear main seal.

I'm going to go with a Callies (Howards Cam) Track Smart forged crank and Callies rods.

I hear that the 2 piece rear main seal conversion kits not only leak a lot of the time, but they also do not quite match up to the bolt pattern on the 1 piece rear seal blocks. Heck with that. I don't even want to chance it.

I want to stick with the 1 piece rear main seal. I think it's a wiser choice.

I'm not going to be drag racing the darn thing all the time or anything, but I want it to be strong.

So, here is what I'm going to buy:

Callies Compstar forged rods with ARP 2000 bolt upgrade included.
Howards Cam Track Smart forged crank for 1 piece rear main seal.

And I'm going to run a more safe 11:1 compression ratio, so I am seriously considering getting the Ross forged -15cc dished pistons. Those are around $650.

My compression ratio will be somewhere between 11.1:1 to 11.3:1, depending on the finished chamber volume (somewhere between 52-54 cc's) on the darn heads, if I ever get them paid for and finished he he he.

So, here I go changing my mind again.

I have too much time to think, due to lack of funds. Could be a good thing, in the long run.

 

Here are some pics. The feed is AN-8 from the rear of the fuel rails and the return is from AN-6 fittings that point down. You cannot have the return lines at the end of the fuel rails because of the casting of the LT1 intake - you just can fit the AN-fittings.

 

Awesome! Looks like a nice, clean setup. Thanks for the pics!

 

Ordered some stuff last night, finally.

-Callies Compstar 6" forged rods
-New GM Performance standard volume oil pump
-Lakewood rear LCA's

Next week I'm going to send $1000.00 to AI, toward the heads/valvetrain/intake, and order my Track Smart forged crankshaft, fuel pump upgrade from Lingenfelter (they seem to be the only place with the 255 pump and Racetronix harness, etc.), and I will probaby buy a Tuff Stuff polished water pump. Looks like a nice piece. I figured I might as well get a new water pump while I'm at it and might as well pay a little extra for a nice looking polished one.

 

I'm a bit confused about and cannot picture the T56 clutch install process and the master slave spacer, which was not on the bellhousing when I got it. I'm not picturing how the spacer and slave cylinder go together.

I'm not sure about the pilot bearing and throwout bearing, and I need to know if the stock flywheel is a 153 tooth part and if I should get a new one with the McLeod clutch I'm gonna get.

 

Hello, this would be a great thread to add to the list of LS and LT swaps that I'm trying to put together. If you you are willing to have your thread added to the list just drop me a reply here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ltx-swaps.html with a link to your swap thread and I will add it to the list.

 

I'll do that, NewZMan.

Got my connecting rods, oil pump, and LCA's today. The rods alone set me back almost $600.00. I have a loooong way to go still.

Here's a pic of my Callies forged H-Beam rods. I hear they are good rods. I also hear that the Callies quality control people are very meticulous. I'm sure they don't put their name on junk parts

These are clearanced for stroker applications, and the Manleys aren't, but I bet the Manleys are better rods. Oh well.

 

has anybody had a problem with the seal for the waterpump. everytime i put the cover on it tears the seal. it doesnt matter if i put the seal on before the cover goes on or after its on

 

BiggTrav, Here you go.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=765748

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com..._pictures.html

I was considering an electric water pump, but it seems the GM pumps are more reliable for a longer period of time.

 

i appreciate that it helped me alot. i thought i was doin somethin wrong. lol now i have a idea on how to do it

 

No problem.

I'm going to get this gasket kit. It took some searching, and the only place I found it, so far, is at Jegs. It addresses the oil pan, oil pump, water pump, and all other needed seals for what I am doing.

Fel Pro Part Number # 375-CS9966

Fel Pro TCS45956 is the kit for just the timing cover seals.

Both are way cheaper than buying the gaskets separately

I'm not sure what some of the gaskets are (the white ones and larger O-ring ones specifically), but I'll figure it out.

Let us know how you end up preventing the water pump shaft seal from tearing. I don't quite understand all those weird "J" tools mentioned in that GM HP article. Geez

 

the white one is for the waterpump seal. as far as the seal goes im gonna borrow the tool from a buddy. and that tool is 75$.

 

BiggTrav that's cool. The article said you can also use a Sharpie marker cap, which is what I'm going to try. I imagine it's a cap from a large marker.

I found the Fel Pro CS9966 gasket set at Autozone, too, and it is $13.00 cheaper than at Jegs.

I also finally found the pcv grommet for my intake manifold at Autozone, part number 42320 from Dorman/Motormite (not sure which it really is).

This doesn't really apply to those who aren't fully blasting and porting their intakes, but it is helpful for those who are or who want to replace this particular grommet just for gp. It's quite difficult if not impossible to get that grommet out without tearing it. Since I am hogging out my intake and having it bead blasted, I had to take that grommet out of it, and I tore it getting it out of there. Here's the old one: it wasn't an easy part to find online, then I found it at Autozone....funny.

Here's the old one that I tore

 

This is a GREAT website, too, with all sorts of very useful information. It would help anyone doing an LT1 swap a great deal.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html