On my fourth gen washer tank, the sensor is right below the fluid feed tube.

 

The red/blue goes to the washer pump, not a level sensor. Its what pushes the fluid through the lines when you turn your wipers to spray

 

OK that makes sense. Thanks Pocket.

UPDATE: My block is still in the process of getting decked. I'm just doing a zero deck and will go from there on my desired 12:1 compression ratio.

It's gonna be mean enough for me I am sure.

 

Silly question but are you going to be able to run pump gas with that kind of compression?

 

not a silly question at all. 92 octane is fine, from what Advanced Induction told me. It's because the LT1 is reverse cooled and has aluminum heads. I was surprised at AI's recommendation of 12:1, and I asked them about it, and they reassured me.The guys who run their heads have had no problems on premium pump fuel, even at higher than 12:1 CR. One of the advantages of the LT1 it seems.

 

gunna be aggresive!

 

It'll be aggressive but still pretty streetable and fun The 234 duration camshaft will sacrifice some driveability, but I won't care one bit. Once that gas is pushed, she'll fly.

 

worth every gallon. lol

 

Definitely

 

Very nice ride .....I'm doing a lt1 swap on my 87 iroc-z28 (305tpi) and I'm definitly using ur post as a guide.

 

Thanks caco.

Cool and good luck with the swap. I wish I could move this project along faster. I just don't have the money to do everything quickly.

I'm wanting it to be a nice, clean, and new looking setup. This costs a crap-ton of money.

Update: I ordered my 58mm throttle body from CNC Motorsports for $185.00 shipped. Not bad.

I'm sending my intake and a 58mm throttle body gasket to Advanced Induction so they can open up the throttle body bores and also clean and port the intake for me.

I have tons to do still. I wish I had a garage and a flat working space darn it.

-I have to install all the Energy bushings I bought.....won't be much fun on my gravel driveway
-gotta perform a brake line leak test (since I installed a prop valve and cut and flared the brake lines myself)
-make and mount a plate, with a smaller hole in it, to the firewall so the LT1 throttle cable will fit in there tightly....I used the throttle cable from the 4th gen car
-cut and flare the hard fuel lines to mate to the Purechoice braided line fittings (I'm not running the fuel lines in the stock location)
-stuff for the interior of the car (hushmat, carpet, stereo, rear speakers, etc.)

List of other stuff I still need to buy:

-rotating assembly
-AI heads
-AI cam
-new roller lifters
-new oil pump
-Pro-Built 4L60e and 10" Vigilante stall converter (2800 to 3000 stall)
-long tube headers
-aluminum driveshaft
-valve covers
-LTCC ignition conversion "box" with wiring harness (plug and play)
-LS1 coil brackets,
-Taylor cut to fit wires,
-alternator and P/S relocation kit with pulleys (gonna look sweet)
-P/S lines
-GMMG exhaust
-double hump tranny crossmember so y-pipe won't hang too low
-custom Y-pipe
-3.73 gears, 28 spline axles, tru-trac posi, and rebuild kit
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-new fuel filter
-aluminum intake elbow, intake pipe, and air filter
-Eibach pro kit
-LCA relocation brackets
-LCA's
-I also have to have my 4th gen rear end rebuilt and have posi, axles, and gears installed and have the LCA relocators welded on.

I'm sure I forgot something he he he

 

oh yeah...and a PCM tune........and I kinda want to get a nice looking polished or satin metal radiator shroud.

 

Once I get going on the stuff I can work on now, I'll post more pics.

 

im finally gettin started on my lt1 swap again had to put it on hold cuz of money but the motors at the machine shop.got my harness from pocket laster year. and just ordered injectors and a 58mm tb. ive been wonderin how people were doin the fuel lines and the throttle cable on these but it looks like i figured it out after readin ur post. good idea

 

Cool. I know all about the money thing (lack thereof). I just ordered my 58mm TB from CNC motorsports. They have the best price I could find anywhere, at $175 for a new one. I don't see the point in spending $300 to $400 on a TB.

I am using the throttle cable from the 4th gen Camaro donor. I just have to make a little plate with a smaller hole in it and fasten it to the firewall, so the throttle cable will stay in there tightly.

I am glad you saw my fuel lines setup plans. I still have to cut and flare the lines for my Purechoice kit to fit onto them. I just don't have much time right now. At least, I am making good money now, so my project should be rolling along soon.

Did you start a swap thread of your own on here? What route are you going with the engine?

 

i bought a bbk tb for mine i like the way they look

i have a question im runiin the lt4 hot cam kit and 26# injectors and i bought a grantelli fuel pump should i upgrade my fuel pressure regulator or will a stock one work ?

 

Yeah I had a BBK TB on my 87. It looked nice. The rest of my engine is going to look very clean and new, so I'm not too worried about the TB. If I want, I can put a fancy plate on the top of it. That's a small thing.

I just want to get the engine done dang it.

The stock regulator should be fine.....it's a good idea to check your fuel pressure, though, and replace the regulator if needed.

 

Speaking of my engine......I'm in sort of a dilemma.

I have Advanced Induction saying that 12:1 compression is what I want and that it isn't too high, and Jerry, my engine builder, keeps telling me I'll be sorry if I run that much compression for pump gas and that I should run 11:1.

I hate when two experts each tell me something different. Jerry has been building engines for as long as I've been alive (nearly 37 years), and I don't know how much experience the guys at AI have, but I know they know what they're doing.

I am thinking about meeting them both half way and going with 11.5:1 compression.

I am almost at 6,000 feet above sea level, and the LT1 is reverse cooled, so I think I would be fine with even 12:1, but I want to play it safe, too, for 92 octane fuel..

Any feedback guys?

 

i talked to the guy at my machine shop today who has built a few of theses and he said he built one that was 12:1 on pump gas and said it ping alot and when he took it to the dragstrip it broke a piston., he said the most u shoiuld run on pump gas is 11:1

 

OK two changes:

1) I'm going to run 11:1 CR
2) I'm swapping in a T56 with 4th gen clutch and brake pedals

I'm selling the 4L60E

One very cool thing I discovered is that Bruce at Hawks mods the 4th gen pedals to bolt right into our cars, so there's no guesswork or drilling new holes or trying to figure out where the pedals should go. From everything I've read, the 4th gen pedals are the best to use with the T56 swap (I am not saying the 3rd gen pedals do not work).

Bruce told me $112.00 for the mod, with switches, pigtails, etc., with provided pedals. Not sure how much if I already have the switches and wiring. Worth it, for saving any hassles, in my opinion.

$220 for a brand new set of 4th gen pedals with all required switches and pigtail.

I'm all about what works BEST, if I am going to put work into something.

 

Not trying to discourage you or anything, but modding the pedals to fit into your car really isnt hard. I just had to in large two holes and since your going to be converting from an auto you can just just the bracket on the pedals to mark and drill the firewall.

Its your choice just you could save some money with only a little of time, as for the swtiches and pigtails thats a different story.

 

With all the stuff I have to do and the large cost of this project, I'm not too worried about spending another $100, if it makes something even a little easier.

 

First, Here are the valve covers I chose. They're converted from center bolt to perimeter bolt. As mentioned earlier in this thread, I am swapping in the LTCC coil conversion with LS1 coils.



These valve covers will look very nice offset by custom billet aluminum coil brackets. Also, check out my quick drawing of a valve cover with my coil bracket configuration. I think it's gonna look frickin' sweet, when the real thing is all finished. I figured why get a nice looking valve cover then cover it up with traditional center bolt coil brackets? My configuration will allow easy removal of the coil brackets and valve covers, and you'll be able to see more of the valve covers, too.

Here's a pretty rough drawing of the configuration:



What do you guys think?

 

Those brackets from billet will be super expensive. If you can have thin plates machined to the shape you want and the angled sections welded together you will be ahead

 

I modified my 4th gen pedals too. Drilled out the top two holes and slotted the tab bracket that bolts to cowl so it is nice and sturdy. I got all the pig tails except the one for the nuteral safety switch. It has plain old spade connections so I can work around it. The other switches on the brake pedal are for CC and brake lights. I am going to try and use my brake switch and take off the factory switches.

I used EARL's compression fittings for the factory fuel lines and bent them up and behind the steering shaft. I used JEG's LT1 fuel adapters and made some short hoses out of AN-6 braided line. Looks pretty good and is very clean.

 

I might send out some cheap aluminum and have it done that way, rather than letting the place I'm using do them from billet. I would hope that would cut my cost at least in half.

Then, if I get ambitious, I could polish the darn things. I find that as I approach 40 years of age, I am losing my ambition for such things.

 

That's cool. I'd like to see pics of that fuel line setup, even though I am sticking with my original plan.

What is CC, regarding the brake pedal switches? Forgive my lack of knowledge on abbreviations. And the neutral safety switch isn't needed anyway, if I am correct in my thinking.

 

I will see if I can remember to snap a pic of the fuel lines tonight.

CC stands for cruise control. I dont have cruise control so I am going to try and reuse my factory brake light switch and remove the 4th gen ones.

 

Give this a shot

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/13420737-post26.html

 

Ahh...cruise control....of course.

 

I saw that pic a few days ago. It looks clean. Ive tried to find some billet fuel rail covers so I could just cut out the holes for the coils, but I haven't been able to locate any billet covers.

I like the idea. I could probably fab some if I first got the shapes right using construction paper or something then tracing them onto some aluminum sheets.

My idea would look clean, too, with the stock fuel rail covers. I'll figure something out.

Thanks for the picture Pocket.

By the way, where is that post that shows the bracket you made for the throttle cable--I saw that you mentioned this to Kthxbai in his LT1 swap thread.

 

Here is a pic of my fuel lines. I may pick up another 45* end for the engine side of the lines. I have some contact with my hydro boost.

Dont mind the wiring mess. I am finishing up the harness and the computer is where the evap canister was at so I had to extend and move all of the computer leads.

 

Nice Supr_fly03. You're more ambitious than me, doing all the wiring yourself. Very nice job!

QUESTION to ponder: I'm wondering if I should convert my fuel rails to parallel, rather than series, or if this mod would be overkill.

This one article talks about LT1's with over 350 horsepower not being able to support such power with the stock, series fuel rail setup.

I think just an aeromotive "on the rail" regulator with the rails still in series would be enough of a mod to handle my new engine's power (around 500 hp).

Here's a pic of the rough setup with parallel fuel rails and an external regulator:


Here's the entire article:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0409htp_lt1_fuel_system_modification_third_gen_use/index.html

Again, I think this setup would be overkill on my pretty aggressive N/A 383, but what if I run a 150 shot of nitrous?

Anyone have any feedback on this?

 

Found a CNC shop here in Casper ...for my coil brackets. Yay!! I made a template last night. Took about two hours.

Just waiting on the Ansen valve cover measurements, so I know where to weld/mount the uprights to the brackets, so they'll bolt down using the perimeter bolts on the valve covers. The lady at Ansen was super pleasant and helpful on the phone. She's getting back to me on the measurements.

Check out the pics I made showing the template and how I'll route the plug wires. The wires will go toward the back of the engine on looms that mount to the coil brackets, then I'll use separators and looms mounted on the valve covers to organize them above the headers. I think it'll look way nice:

It'll be 5/16" aluminum:


I think I'll have enough clearance to plug in the harness plugs, once the coils are mounted down into the 5/16" aluminum:



Not a scaled or 3D drawing, but it shows the idea:

 

Once I get done with the harness I will post a pic. It will be ran very clean.

As far as the fuel rail mod, I am not sure. I dont think topping the fuel system with nitrous will matter when it comes to the fuel rails, any nitrous system should have a seperate fuel supply and not bother with the fuel rails. If the system you get taps into the fuel rail, then just run a seperate supply line off of the 3/8" feed line for the nitrous.

 

Cool. Can't wait to see the harness all cleaned up. It'll be nice. My LT1 install is going to be super clean, too. I can't wait to have the darn thing built.

 

which radiator are you using. i have the one for the lt1 i just have to finish fabin a hold down for it,

 

Just so you know, you can buy a 4th gen shroud to hold it down with slight modification.

 

im modifyin my stock to work i just wanted to see what other people were usin

 

I am using the stock radiator. I had a 24" SS summit hose that I used for the thermostat housing to pass side radiator mount and a 93 Z28 upper hose for the other side. I am using black powder coated SS tubes for both heater lines and will run both of them down the pass side frame rail and up the fire wall to the heater core.

 

nice idea on the heater lines. any chance you can post a pic?

 

Yes a pic would be great

 

I'm going to start working on some things for the swap soon, since the weather is hopefully going to be nice.

My list of stuff I want to finish in a week or so:

1) Install the Energy bushings I got way back when
2) Install 255 fuel pump
3) Cut and flare fuel lines and fit Purechoice lines onto them
4) Check for leaks at brake master cylinder (I did the prop valve install)
5) Order billet radiator hold down shroud and fit it and the radiator to the car, so it's all ready to be done easily, after I put the engine in
6) Fix threads on passenger side of steering link, get new castle nuts and tighten steering linkage back up to specs with new Energy dust boots.
7) Clean interior and fix hole in driver's floorpan and cover interior with hush mat as much as possible
8) Finish up my LS1 coil brackets

I can't think of anything else right now.

Oh and does anyone know if the stock oilpan will work with the 383 stroker??

 

This is probably what I'm going with, so my engine will get enough fuel.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?

 

And I decided to go with the Chevy Orange Ansen valve covers:



I did this for three reasons:

1) the flat blacks are on back order
2) Now the black LS1 coils will "pop" nicely over top of these orange covers (I won't have to get the billet covers for $200 to make them look nice in the engine bay
3) I am probably going to paint my car black, and I think these'll look good when the hood is open

Also, the lady at Ansen was kind enough to mail me a lower bracket for one of these valve covers, so now I can take my measurements and finish the darn coil brackets!! Finally!! You can see how they bolt onto the heads and then allow the perimeter bolts to hold them down to the heads. I like.

 

I don't see why the stock oil pan should be a problem.

 

Yeah my engine builder told me the stock pan should work with the 383, and he also told me no need for a high volume oil pump, but he does want to put a new stock pump in there, which makes sense.

Dang, I can't wait till my engine's done and ready to bolt to the T56, and I can't wait to put it all into my car. Sick of waiting because of money.

I ordered some small parts yesterday...those annoying little things that I need or want badly.....Ansen valve covers, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, Energy engine mount bushings, Moog front end links. I'm irritated because I am $14 short in my car account, for the Racetronix/Walbro fuel pump kit with harness....I want to install that soon, too. Grrrr.

It was either order those parts or send the money to Advanced Induction as payment toward the heads. Wish I had $10,000.00 laying around.

For some reason, I'm not looking forward to the bushings install at all....probably because it's going to be a major PITA. I have all brand new Energy bushings for the entire car. It'll be a worthwhile install, though.

 

Took my hood off and looked into the engine bay and under the front end again, for the first time in many months....getting ready to do the bushings and clamshell inserts.

It looks like a guy has to take the darn A-arms off to get to the clamshell nuts underneath anyway. Sheesh.

Fun times ahead. I'm gonna buy an electric impact tool to work on the front end stuff. Heck with turning rachets on that stuff. Man, I'm getting old.

And I don't quite see how the front shocks fasten up top near the braces. Do they pull out from the top, once they are loosened from the bottom? It will probably become clear once I undo them from the bottom. I might as well change the shocks out too....any recommendations on shocks?

 

Here is my harness on the floor and on the motor. Came out good, made it a little long between the engine and booster and a little short between the left and right engine extentions. The PCM is in front of the washer bottle and will be under the air filter.

 

Looks nice and clean! Nice job!

I'm going to mount my PCM in the same location where the old ECM was. I have to cut a hole underneath my AC delete box. I am way far away from worrying about the wiring harness

I am doing way more on this swap than I originally intended (383 LT1, front brake upgrade, 4th gen rear, fuel pump upgrade, long tubes, interior work, all new bushings, springs, etc. etc.). I figured since the car is pretty much gutted, I might as well address everything now.