bigals87z28

Well Im joining the rest of you guys and planning to put an LS1 into my 87 and tear out the old 305 TPI.

I have a few questions:
1) What are some of you guys running for cat-backs? I thought about scrapping my current Hooker system, and going something stainless like from Magnaflow, but some said that it doesnt flow all that well or that its not worth the cost
2) Instead of repinning a harness, Im gunna have Speartech do it. Anyone here have a harness from them? Good/Bad results?
3) I know there is a basic guide up top, but what are some things that some people have found to be a problem? What things should I be looking for or possibly avoiding doing? Or even do before I drop the engine in?

Thank you.

RockJay81

iTrader: (1)

were are you getting your engine?

my exhaust im running dual single chambered powersticks dumping infront ofthe rear wheel

i just cut up my harness like pocket sticky says its way cheaper and real easy



tips

take your time dont rush the job or half *** it.


make sure you read everything these guys posted and read it good.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

People dont take the sticky seriously since it is a few years old, but, put bluntly, it really is a step by step of all you need to do in the general order of when the major subsystems need to be addressed

Read over several swap threads too. The best teacher is experience and reading their trials and hardships can help you avoid them

I will tell you from experience, a good wiring job will make a swap immensely easier

bigals87z28

Its one reason I would rather spend the extra cash and get one pre-done by guys and gals that have done it sevearl times before, not to mention can tune the PCM for me.

ShMaCk2004

copy cat lol thats my exhaust

skiwrench

I used the Speartech wiring which was of the highest quality. Not only did it make the project easier, but he also provided great customer support. It comes down to the question of what is your time worth to you? For me it was easier to pay $800 and have a guaranteed perfect wiring harness with all new connectors as opposed to spending a bunch of time modifying a used harness.

I am also running the Hooker catback with a custom y-pipe (no cats). It looks and sounds great, but my ground clearance is crap due to the setup of the y. I am considering switching to the new Hawks (Stainless Works) full header/catback system which should offer more ground clearance, but I haven't heard any reviews of the system yet, although it looks nice. Plus I don't need 2" primaries (yet!).

bigals87z28

Chris, sounds good man. I thought about saving a bit of the budget and keeping the exhaust. Would save an easy 400.
I kind of wish someone made a quality y-pipe for the car. I also dont understand why a 4th gen Y pipe wont work. I can understand the headers due to the front clip being totaly different, but pretty much everything from the firewall back is damn near the same correct? I dunno if anyone has ever tried, im sure they have.
I mean...they should exit about the same place and distance. The LS1 isnt bigger so the collectors arent spread apart any farther?
floorpans between third and 4th gens are from memory, 99% similar. Even comes with the third gen cat hump.

macdadyZ28

iTrader: (1)

I believe the y-pipe doesnt work because the trans tunnel is way different between 3rd and 4th gen.

any 4th gen catback will work just fine, just need to fab a y for w/e headers you use (stocks or customs).

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Once you get under the car you'll see the vast difference in the front chassis for 3rd/4th gens and why 4th gen exhaust wont fit at all

bigals87z28

Hrm..guess so.

I have another question that I didnt see addressed in the LS1 sticky is has anyone swapped in a GTO-spec LS1? And is the 4L60E that comes attached with it the same as the domestic 4L60E?
It looks as if the GTO's accessories are positioned differently, does that effect anything?

Shift06

Im using a Magnaflow stainless catback, haven't tried it because im not done yet but we'll see.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

When do you plan on starting your swap Al? I have a bare LS6 block, LS1 heads and my transmission already for my swap so I can mock everything up. I also bought a new oil pan (not the f-body) that I hope will allow me to run the STOCK 3rd gen routing for the exhaust so I dont have the Y pipe running down past the transmission.

I figured this will be easier to assemble in the car and see how things work out before I start with a fully dressed engine. I can pick an aluminum Ls block by hand and do what I need without an engine hoist. I would LOVE to find an LS1 intake for mockup too but people want too much for good ones and I havent been able to find a broken one yet.

You may want to consider this route unless you are still driving your car.

Shift06

Ls1 intakes are dirt cheap on ls1tech, you can usually find them for as low as $30.

bigals87z28

We I was looking on getting the 87 to my house later this week. Im picking up the engine hopefully Sunday.
I want to tear the 305 out carefully and see what I can salvage out of it. I need that gone and sold on ebay/classifieds/clist.
Then im gunna clean up the engine bay, maybe do some touch up stuff, paint up the kmember a bit, and get it ready for motor mounts.
I have an AC delete box as well, want to get that cleaned up and installed as well.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Having worked under both I can certainly agree with this. Don't let their seemingly vast parts compatibility fool you, the 3rd and 4th generation cars are very different animals.

bigals87z28

LS1 is home, and now waiting on the 87 to be flat bedded to the new house. Im gunna start to tear it down after work over the next few days.

bigals87z28

More pics and current status.



Current issues, and I have hijacked enough threads.

I want to run a 4th gen tank and try to use as much as the emissions stuff on it. Now reading several posts, there seems to be no way I can use all of the 4th gen's intergrated evap system on top of the tank without going with a 4th gen dash.

My question is what can I do to keep the evap system? Am I better off just going with something like the Corvette fuel filter instead of going with the whole 4th gen tank?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Id suggest the C5 filter for simplicity and cost

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Al, good to hear from you. I'm going the same route as you now!

bigals87z28

HOLY CRAP MATT!! How are ya man!
Going big dog with the 6.0 eh? Alright!

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Yea. Its been a long time since I last saw you. 06 I think. Yup just a basic LQ4 and a TF stage 3 cam.

bigals87z28

Sounds good man!

Alright, my problems still stand around this gas tank issue.
Im really at a crossroads in which way to go. Third gen tank and Corvette filter seem to be the easiest way, while 4th gen tank sounds cooler and offers some serious benifits.

Either way, i have a problem with the evap system. If I go with the stock tank, what do I do about the evap and charcol canister? Do I have to reuse it? Can I just remove it and just let it vent to fresh air?
The LS1 has an evap solinoid on the driver side fuel rail. I assume that is no longer used?
This seems to be the biggest problem Ive come across so far.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

My recommendations based on my own experiences:

-if you're going t g with poly motor mounts, install them before the engine goes in. Swapping them out with the engine installed is a royal pain in the ****.

- Pocket can make you a harness for a fraction of the price of a Speartech harness. My car has one of his harnesses and it works like a dream.

- I suggest using a 3rd gen tank with a better pump and the vette filter as a regulator. It's way cheap and really simple. My entire fuel system from the pump to the rails cost me about $350 using a vette filter, Walbro pump, braided lines and various Russell fittings.

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Not hyjacking this thread, but I dont need to run a regulator then if I run the vette filter? I already have the walbro in the tank. Whats this so called vette filter? Bolts in the stock location?

bigals87z28

Matt, cause its you, I dont mind the hijack!

The corvette filter has a regulator built in.

bigals87z28

Blue, I have a few questions for you
1) What did you do for evap since you kept your stock tank?
2) Notice any fuel starvation problems with the stock tank?

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

The vette filter with the built in regulator is for a 1997 corvette I believe. And yes, when you use it you don't need one of those expensive aftermarket regulators.


I deleted evap. The only line that goes up to the engine bay is the fuel fees line. It's a clean, simple look.

No fuel starvation here.

bigals87z28

so what do you do for evap? Just let it vent to open air?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

87-98 vettes have the regulator on the fuel rail. These are easy to spot because they're the only ones with a return port. 99-04 C5 filters have the regulator you want. If using the LS1 tank, it has a built in regulator on the return side so you can stick to a 3rd gen filter and cobble the fittings together. Beware, V6 plastic tanks do not have the built in regulator

Id stick to the 3rd gen tank and C5 filter for simplicity

Read over my swap and youll see the filter mounted in the 3rd gen location and the system diagram I used

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Ok... so. If I get a vette filter, what size fitting from the filter to the engine? Is the quick connect a 5/16 or 3/8? Is it the same adapter that goes onto the stock LS1 intake then? I was thinking of getting those nice AN ones, running braided hose up and to the engine and then just basic hose from the return side of the filter back to the return line cmoing down from the tank. Yes no?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Yeaaaaaaaaaaa !! $134.50 for all those fittings, plus 45 for a new filter + prob 50 bucks for hose beats paying for Hawks kit which is close to 400 with the regulator. Do I have to run the braided hose or can I run that black russell 250psi hose with those fittings?

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

You don't have to use braided hose. I used braided hose on my whole system because it looks good.

bigals87z28

I kind of wanted to run the stock line and just put the fittings in whatever areas I need to.
But for 135 bucks...not bad.

Also, I want to know what people are doing for venting evap? Can I just vent it to the outside?
I need to check NJ's rules for emissions, but I dont think that if I vent it to the outside, that it will effect emissions readings.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Right on!! Subscribed. Are you going to paint your engine bay? Now's definitely the time.

I'm doing an LT1 swap, as we speak. It's no LS1, but it's still fun, for the most part. Check out my thread sometime, if you want.

bigals87z28

The engine bay is painted at this point, but I need to go back and touch up a few things, and I need to paint the K member with some POR15 or something similar.

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Al, just do what i did and go this route. Way cheaper then painting the K member I've decided to do my bay as well. I just had too. What a PITA removing everything. I'll be removing the fuel lines now since I wont be using them and the evap line.

bigals87z28

its deff not cheaper then painting the K!
I have thought about it...but ill leave that for the future.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I just sanded and slapped the K member with some Rustoleum rust reformer (it's weird stuff). I think it'll work fine. It looks nice, too, not that it matters.

Before:



After:

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Sorry, I've been busy and not reading through all threads for the past week or so.

I started with a factory carb'd car. I used a 4th gen plastic tank and left the evap stuff installed. I left the line that goes to the solenoid on the engine open. I didn't wire the fuel pressure or anything else except the fuel pump and fuel level sender. The tank vents through the charcoal box without any input from the PCM. I used a 3rd gen fuel filter with a tee on the outlet with one side going to the engine and the other going back to the return on the tank (pressure reg is built into the return in the pump/sender unit).

The only issue with doing this is the fuel level sender is a different resistance than 3rd gen, so the 3rd gen fuel gauge won't work. You can modify the sender, I chose to get a programmable fuel gauge since I was going aftermarket gauges, anyway (primarily for the electronic speedometer).

There is obviously more than one way to skin this cat (and no "best" answer). So, consider the various options, and pick whatever combo best suits you.

bigals87z28

Thank you for chiming in here.
I know about the gauge, and thats not my problem. Im worried about the whole evap system. I dont want my car to reak of gas when im at a half a tank or lower.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I removed the hard evap line from the old setup all the way back to when it clamps to a rubber hose by the tank. I didn't filter or cap the rubber hose, it's just sitting there at the back of the car. I haven't noticed any fuel smells. If I did, I could simply put a breather filter on the end of the rubber hose.

bigals87z28

I would think you would need it to keep pressure in the tank, no?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You don't need to pressurize the tank above atmospheric. You do want to avoid a vacuum.

No gas fume complaints with my set-up. The charcoal absorbs the vapors.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Avoid a vacuum as in, don't leave the rubber hose open-ended underneath the car? Is the idea behind that, that it could suck up particles into the tank or something? I guess I could throw a breather filter on it just to be safe. But I haven't noticed any fumes and I haven't driven it much since doing the swap, and definitely not in bad weather.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

As in, don't plug the vapor line.

I haven't put a filter on mine yet, but I'll probably do that when I get around to it.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

10-4

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I don't know about the LS1 fuel tanks, but on my third gen tank I took the whole darn evap thing out and just capped the hard line that connected to the plastic line that went up to the evap canister up front, and there's already another vent line on the tank, with a breather on the end of it. No biggy.

I don't know if or why a 4th gen tank would be any different.

bigals87z28

Alright well then Im not worried about it anymore then. Im gunna continue with the 4th gen tank install. Thanks guys!

bigals87z28

I have a question, has anyone tried to install the LT headers while the LS1 is in the car?

Also, anyone have the part numbers for the fittings that will attach to the LS1 fuel tank?