Ok so i MIGHT be getting my hands on a lt1 thats either from a 93 or 94 formy. The car doesnt run, and im pretty sure it hasnt for a few years. So i'll most likely strip the motor down and stroke it to a 383. And i would like some suggestions on what parts i should use in the motor.

I Dont have a specific power range i want, nothing TO dramatic but im hoping atleast mid 300's, 400's would be nice though as the car is heavy.
Its gonna be daily driven so i'll still want good mpg and good driveablity. I will most likely either run true dual with super 44's or just a single magnaflow system with hooker 2055's. I will also be keeping a/c and all.

i think the motor is attached to a auto and that will probaly be rebuilt and swapped in to, along with the rear end and brakes.

So how much could just the motor build approx. cost me?
And advice from people that have done a lt1 swap would be greatly appreciated.
And please dont say go for ls1. Thanks.

 

actually, its a stick from the look of it, so a t56. if i do get the motor/tranny combo i might either sell the tranny or keep it in the car for another motor, because im not sure if i want a stick...

 

You'll need pistons with at least 17.8cc of dish. The common 12cc versions just won't do, because you'd be close to 11.5:1.

 

well im kinda wondering if its almost better to do a near stock rebuilt, maybe just with a wilder cam and slightly better parts? opinions on that? wouldnt stroking to a 383 be a good 1k more?

 

Yes, stroking adds $1,000 or more. It also adds serious torque, to offset the short-runner intake. It is possible to TPI an LT1, and that's the better way to add torque, because you can still exceed 400 HP, and it'll still be capable of near 30 mpg, assuming 4L60 and 3.08:1.
You need to nail down exactly what you want, and exactly what you're willing to spend to get there.

 

i think i will stick with the stock bore for now, im not rich and probaly never will be and i just want a little more oomph for now. i dont really have a specific power range, just enough to get me out of the whole QUICK and to not be embarresed by a adverage car. i just want to be pulling somewhere probaly in the low 13's which a cammed rebuilt lt1 and maybe 3.42 gears should do right?

 

ok evermind about atleast this specific car, talked to the owner a minute ago and he said that there around 450hp on the car and that he probaly wouldnt sell the whole thing for less the 5k and that theres a problem that after a little bit of running time the metal inside the engine starts to expands and chokes the engine. said he's talked to several mechanics and no one could figure out why, anyone got a idea for him?

i guess im probaly going to work with what i got for now other then a swap.

also the formula has horrible body flex, the doors dont close fully any more, is there anything to do about that?

 

If you are still on the lookout for an LT1 swap, you don't need to do any of the above to make it run good. The car my lt1 came out of went low 12s @ 110 with just bolt ons. I would just stick a stock one in the car and drive it. In near stock condition in should go mid to upper 13s. With exhaust and intake it could go upper 12s with traction.

If you wanted to build it, go with a proven heads and cam setup from any of the top two lt1 companies (Elliot Portworks or Advanced Induction). I wouldn't worry about upping the compression on pump gas either. 11.5:1 will be fine on 91 pump.

 

thanks, i would really rather pefere an lt1 but i got thinking that a motor/tranny swap might be a bit much for me, of course this would be a few yrs down the road though...
thats pretty much all i want is to be able to hang with the DD's and make the car respectable.


One thing i like about working with my current motor time to time is i'll be able to add power here and there and reinforcment parts (tranny, rear end, brakes, sfc) and not just have a chunk of power right there waiting to twist the body in half when i dont have the money. Thats why i was kinda looking for a donor car...

 

I don't think you need to worry about chassis flex that much. If you are that worried, then just pick up a set of sub frame connectors and be done with it. That 4th gen formula you found was probably in a wreck if the doors wouldn't close. And that bit about the engine sounds like a load of crap.