...would you use it?

Actually I've been given it to see if it works any better. Debating whether or not to install it. Most likely I'd try it in the 2000 LS1 w/stock f-body cam, shaved 317's, Hawks headers, LS6 intake, 3000 stall shift-kitted 4L60E, 3.73 gears. If I decide to keep it, I give him $75.

 

IF you were going to do a cam swap I'd go bigger but it will run faster with the LS6 cam vs any other factory cam. LS6 motor routinely put down near 390-400whp with all the bolt ons and tune, vs 350whp for a typical full bolt on LS1. Your 317 heads flow like a 243 LS6 head and being shaved they probably have same chambers to keep compression similar.

 

not worth the time or expense to do a cam swap to not put a real cam in there compared to a GM one.

 

I dont think I would bother with it.

 

This is the same engine that had the #5 intake lifter/pushrod take a dump, scuffing the lobe a little. I may have to pull the engine to fix a rear oil leak (not sure if it's rear main seal or oil pan). I'd be willing to do the cam at the same time if it would run better.

I'm also cheap, and wouldn't mind being able to tell the other LS1 racers that the engine is "all GM parts". I'm already running with the mod'd 4th gens (faster than one, close to the other), over a second quicker than the stock LS1's.

 

Agreed. You can score a nice used cam, that would net you a LOT more power.

 

Witha bigger cam you'd need to get it all tuned up. LS6 cam should run ok on stock tune but will also benefit form a tune. Not sure if you plan on tuning yourself or not but thats extra cost. But you can find some cheaper used cams that will work well.

 

for $75 sure go for it, unless you can find something used aftermarket cheaper.

 

Time - would be part of the oil leak fix, so not much additional over pulling the engine.
Expense - Just the $75 for keeping the cam.

I may be doing some tuning, or getting it done (haven't decided yet). Either way it will involve expense, as I don't have any tuning equipment or software yet. (Are these things any good? http://www.summitracing.com/search/S...O/?Ns=Rank|Asc )

I wasn't looking for a cam upgrade, this almost literally fell in my lap (offered by a local racer putting a 5.3 in his driver Malibu and decided to go with an LQ4 cam instead). He kept talking about putting his LS6 cam in my car and spraying it to get into the 10's. I pointed out I don't have a roll bar, and the car is supposed to be my DD. Last weekend, he brought the cam out to the track, brought it over to me, and said, "Put it in and see how it does. If you like it, I paid $75 for it."

 

I would keep it just to have if you ever end up with something like a 5.3 or something that you just wanted to go up with a little in the power department.

 

I wouldnt bother its not much of an upgrade and theres so many great cams out there nowadays. The EPS lobe 224ish cam put down impressive numbers and times ( deep 11's ) over at tech on a bone stock LS6 crate engine.

If you change your air intake you should get a tune never mind anything else.

 

Funny, early on when putting the LS1/T56 together, I asked if the things I was changing from factory (LS6 intake, long tube headers, air intake) would affect the tune. I was told much more radical changes have been made without affecting the tune, so I should be fine. Well, the LS1/T56 seemed fine, but the LS1/4L60E doesn't like to idle.

 

Running, and running well are completely different animals. Im learning a lot about tunes now and I have a LOT to learn. Needless to say with even minor changes a tune will reap very beneficial rewards

 

don't pay for a tune until you slap a cam in there would be my suggestion, check out your sensor readings, maybe something is off on your setup. Too many bolt on cars running great with no tune to point to that immediately.

 

well in my experience going to long tubes, air intake change, and an auto will make a difference. for starters you just opened the exhaust up. then allowed more air from the intake, and put more load on the engine going from manual to auto. yes there will be changes that need to be done. if you are not wanting to put out for a better cam then throw that one in and then have a tune done for it where they actually change the timing and fuel tables this time.

 

One of these days I need to hook up the check engine light and OBD II connector. I'll probably do that when the Cable X box arrives (supposed to be delivered tomorrow) and I hook up the speedometer.

Interestingly the car idles fine if it is moving. When I come to a stop, it'll be fine for a few seconds, then lose RPMs, and die if I don't feather the throttle. Doesn't matter if it's in gear or in neutral if the car isn't moving.

Anyway. like I said, I wasn't looking to upgrade the cam, it just fell in my lap. If I saved it for a 5.3, I'd still be paying $75 (my son is considering a 5.3 for his '96 S10). They guy who gave me the cam decided against it because he thought it would be to much for his 5.3.

Well, I'm so burnt out from getting this car running, then 3 trips in 3 weeks, and two remaining weekends of racing coming up that I'm sure nothing will be happening soon.

 

is your VSS hooked up to the computer, because that sounds like the issue when coming to a stop and it dying. Raising idle rpm can "fix" that or mask the issues.

 

its the difference in load, air, and fuel. it is all able to be tuned out. and should be able to be tuned out without raising the idle. trust me i have tuned these engines before and will again. a 4l60e takes 22 hp to run. a 4l80e takes 48hp to run. you said before it was a stock tune. well it had to be for a standard if you had a t56 before. stick the cam in there, raise the misfires a tad, set the fuel and timing and you should be good to go.

 

The VSS is hooked up.

It's a stock tune for a 2000 LS1/4L60E. Remember, I have two '82 Berlinettas, one with a 2000 LS1/T56, the other with a 2000 LS1/4L60E.

 

then either you have something wrong or the tune is not right.

one thing to remember is that the ecm does not know fuel pressure in those years. without a check engine light hooked up there is no way to know if a code is present. although some dont like them the light and the connector can serve you well. if it doesnt die while cruising then to nme the iac is working. if you do stick a cam in have them turn your misfires up a tad bit. i always did mine to 32000.