'87 Formula Vin H getting the LSx treatment- She's ALIVE! swap docs collection inside
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
SUCCESS!!! Swapped A4 and G5 around.
Not sure if the '87 C100 is different from others, but the terminals are not interchangeable. One is bigger than the other. I cut the terminals off and swapped them on to the right wire. No big deal though, just a bit more work. Drop in the bucket compared to taking the harness back apart
Should be able to start her up this weekend
Not sure if the '87 C100 is different from others, but the terminals are not interchangeable. One is bigger than the other. I cut the terminals off and swapped them on to the right wire. No big deal though, just a bit more work. Drop in the bucket compared to taking the harness back apart
Should be able to start her up this weekend
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Odd
Ive made the same mistake and had to switch the terminals without issue
Ive made the same mistake and had to switch the terminals without issue
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
I'm lovin this man, you are doing great!! but if I was your son I'd be mad you didn't let me help. lol you are busting your knuckles so he can melt some rubber!! oh yeah
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
I'll take the trade off to see his face when he starts the car. I won't tell him what's been done and he won;t be able to tell until he turns the key. I think he will quickly forget that he might have any inclination of being mad once he realizes what has happened over the winter.
Pocket...just to confirm. In order to bypass the vss buffer box i need to connect two pins (F to C) and to kill VATS I need to connect the 2 heavy gauge wires at the starter relay. Right?
Also, happened to come across this while I was searching for some other stuff. This would explain why the terminals didn't fit.
Pocket...just to confirm. In order to bypass the vss buffer box i need to connect two pins (F to C) and to kill VATS I need to connect the 2 heavy gauge wires at the starter relay. Right?
Also, happened to come across this while I was searching for some other stuff. This would explain why the terminals didn't fit.
Last edited by mille_3; 03-02-2014 at 07:22 PM. Reason: updated links
#105
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
A4 and G5 are the battery wires with F4 the main IGN. I must have switched A4 and F4 while you switched A4 and G5. Sorry for the confusion
Yes on the buffer box
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...SS_V8_vinE.jpg
Yes on the starter relay
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...m_pass-key.jpg
Yes on the buffer box
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...SS_V8_vinE.jpg
Yes on the starter relay
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...m_pass-key.jpg
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
No need for apologies. I was the one that screwed up in the first place. You have been a great resource and help.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Anyone know if it's ok to run both vacuum lines for HVAC to the small port on the back of the intake below the brake booster vacuum source and then tee one off to the heater bypass valve? I'm assuming that the vacuum port (brass) on the front of an LS6 intake (pass side) should be ok for the cruise since I won't have the purge solenoid hooked to it?
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
IIRC, only one of those needs to be hooked up, the other went to the heater core diverter valve previously to open and close it. now which one, i dont have the info atm....
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Can the heater valve be eliminated? From what I understand the A/C might not be as cold without it. The vacuum hose with the 90 degree bend is the HVAC.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
You can delete the heater control valve. If you do, coolant will ALWAYS be flowing through the heater core while the motor is running. If you want to run a heater control valve, you need to watch which one you use.
This is my understanding...but I thought I read somewhere that its not good to cap off the heater outlets on the water pump. You need circulation from one to the other. Again...just what Ive read.
So if you want to run a heater control valve, you need one that, when closed, allows the coolant to go the valve, then turn around and come back without going up to the heater core. I found one that does just that, and mounts inline...vs having hoses going in different directions.
As for the vac lines...like was already stated, one is for the valve and one is the "supply" for the entire system. If you go inside and look at the soft vac lines, you'll see a purple and a grey tube running next to each other, and is attached to the hard lines. The purple is the supply, and grey is what actuates the heater valve.
I wrote up a thread on how to turn a non-heater control valve car into a heater control valve car...and show a few pictures of how all tha tworks...it might help ya. I wanted the valve in there to keep my a/c cooler...and it did make the a/c cooler.
Here is the thread on the vac hoses and the heater control switch and all. Not of too much use to you other than how it works maybe.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...iring-vac.html
And here is the thread on the heater control valve I used.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-valve-ls.html
As I said...this is all based on the fact that the heater outlets on the LS water pump should circulate....if its a fact that blocking flow between the two is ok...then you can use whatever valve you want, or however you want to accomplish shutting off the flow to the heater core.
J.
This is my understanding...but I thought I read somewhere that its not good to cap off the heater outlets on the water pump. You need circulation from one to the other. Again...just what Ive read.
So if you want to run a heater control valve, you need one that, when closed, allows the coolant to go the valve, then turn around and come back without going up to the heater core. I found one that does just that, and mounts inline...vs having hoses going in different directions.
As for the vac lines...like was already stated, one is for the valve and one is the "supply" for the entire system. If you go inside and look at the soft vac lines, you'll see a purple and a grey tube running next to each other, and is attached to the hard lines. The purple is the supply, and grey is what actuates the heater valve.
I wrote up a thread on how to turn a non-heater control valve car into a heater control valve car...and show a few pictures of how all tha tworks...it might help ya. I wanted the valve in there to keep my a/c cooler...and it did make the a/c cooler.
Here is the thread on the vac hoses and the heater control switch and all. Not of too much use to you other than how it works maybe.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...iring-vac.html
And here is the thread on the heater control valve I used.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-valve-ls.html
As I said...this is all based on the fact that the heater outlets on the LS water pump should circulate....if its a fact that blocking flow between the two is ok...then you can use whatever valve you want, or however you want to accomplish shutting off the flow to the heater core.
J.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Thanks. That's what I was looking for. I knew I had seen it somewhere but forgot to bookmark it. On my way home from work I started thinking a bit more about it. It should really work no different than the original did. I'll use the 3rd gen valve inline and run the vac line directly to it and the HVAC to the vac port at the back of the intake. I always overthink things
Last edited by mille_3; 03-02-2011 at 07:29 PM.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
So here's an oddity. I ordered 12628771 f-body oil pan, but the stamping on the oil pan is 12558899. No big deal as part numbers cross all the time and old stock is being sent as the new part number. But the problem is that a filter for a 4th gen f-body does not fit. After about 1.2 million trips to the parts store I finally found the filter I needed. A 5th gen f-body 6.2L filter. Not sure what to make of it.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
That is pretty odd. At least you got it figured out.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
New GM oil pans use the LS3 fitting for some reason. I ran into that on my pan and people said I was imagining things. Salvaged the fitting from the truck pan I was scrapping and the Fbody filter spun right on
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
But any valve that gives you the results, and you can make fit is perfect!
J.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
I ended up using something very similar to the one you used. After looking at both of them in person, the 3rd gen valve was not going to work the way I wanted it to. The 3rd gen only had 2 openings and was a bit bulky whereas the one I ended up using has 4 openings and is relatively small.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Went to the junkyard AGAIN to pick up another connector for the coolant temp sensor. They're pretty cool, they've gotten used to me looking for crap all the time so they just give me a set of clippers and tell me to get what I need....and for free
Anyway which one of these three wires is the one for the gauge? I assume the two brown get spliced into 1 wire and then into PIN F5 on C100. Should the Black wire still go to the PCM for low reference?
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.
Anyway which one of these three wires is the one for the gauge? I assume the two brown get spliced into 1 wire and then into PIN F5 on C100. Should the Black wire still go to the PCM for low reference?
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.
Last edited by mille_3; 03-02-2014 at 07:23 PM. Reason: updated links
#120
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Perfect. I think "thank you" is starting to lose it's meaning for as many times as I've said it
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
This is turning out to be the swap from hell. Right as I was getting ready to fire her up...I better do one more double check....and I forgot the effin' tranny cooler lines. So drop the tranny for a third time. I'm not sure what is going on with the lines but they do not fit worth a crap, so now I have to go have custom lines made. Oh and the hawks x-member, not sure if I got a bad one, but the fit sucks. Had to drill a bigger hole for the tranny bushing pin to fit. Ugh...bad start to the weekend. Anyway just had to vent.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
I can draw up an AN6 line diagram with PNs if it'd help the process
Also, you dont have to drop the trans to get to the lines. Maybe lower the crossmember or pull the pass side header at the max. I replaced mine with everything still installed
Also, you dont have to drop the trans to get to the lines. Maybe lower the crossmember or pull the pass side header at the max. I replaced mine with everything still installed
#123
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
If you have the part numbers handy that would be great. Otherwise no need to make special concessions. If you can tell me what the thread is, I'll get on summit and order up some stuff. I don't want to crawl under the car again today. I need a time out
I had to drop the tranny (partially) because there was no way in hell I was getting a tool at those fittings. Went down to the local parts store and got some new lines that were total junk. Can't make any sharp bends or they kink.
I had to drop the tranny (partially) because there was no way in hell I was getting a tool at those fittings. Went down to the local parts store and got some new lines that were total junk. Can't make any sharp bends or they kink.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
I drew them up but never uploaded them to photobucket. The trans fittings are different for the rear trans fitting on the new style 4L80E's. Rest fit
Trans takes 1/4 NPT, radiator 1/2 x 20
45* hose ends on the trans, rad upper is a 90* and 45* lower
You can mix/match straits or 90*s for all of it but those angles fit best
edit: PNs in the diagram arent correct for the trans side. They take 1/4NPT which is SUM-220647
Trans takes 1/4 NPT, radiator 1/2 x 20
45* hose ends on the trans, rad upper is a 90* and 45* lower
You can mix/match straits or 90*s for all of it but those angles fit best
edit: PNs in the diagram arent correct for the trans side. They take 1/4NPT which is SUM-220647
Last edited by Pocket; 03-18-2011 at 03:48 PM.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Im doing the waiting game too. Headers, LS2 timing chain, pushrods, injectors all in the mail
About to order a new fuel system with all the AN stuff along with a full list of silicone couplers too. Ouch
About to order a new fuel system with all the AN stuff along with a full list of silicone couplers too. Ouch
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Got her all put back together. Had a delay because of the waiting game for parts. My parts showed on Thursday and I got to work today. Got some wrong fittings that I got sorted out (sort of). I ended up getting a separate tranny cooler instead of running it to the radiator. Should clean things up a little since all of a sudden things are getting a bit cluttered.
Tried starting the car but no luck. Not sure if VATS is causing this but there is no fuel at all at the rail. Guess I'll trouble shoot that tomorrow
Which two wires am I supposed to connect? The yellow and ? I don't see a dark green and I have both tan AND white but no tan/white.
What is the yellow and purple plug supposed to be plugged into? I found it unplugged
Shot of the tranny cooler. Have to find a good spot to mount it.
Shot of the subframe connectors. Should stiffen things up a bit
Oh, almost forgot. Another one of those things that was supposed to fit, but doesn't....the torque arm mount does not line up with the holes at the transmission, go figure. Tranny is out of a '99 Trans Am. Anyone else run into this?
Tried starting the car but no luck. Not sure if VATS is causing this but there is no fuel at all at the rail. Guess I'll trouble shoot that tomorrow
Which two wires am I supposed to connect? The yellow and ? I don't see a dark green and I have both tan AND white but no tan/white.
What is the yellow and purple plug supposed to be plugged into? I found it unplugged
Shot of the tranny cooler. Have to find a good spot to mount it.
Shot of the subframe connectors. Should stiffen things up a bit
Oh, almost forgot. Another one of those things that was supposed to fit, but doesn't....the torque arm mount does not line up with the holes at the transmission, go figure. Tranny is out of a '99 Trans Am. Anyone else run into this?
Last edited by mille_3; 03-02-2014 at 07:25 PM.
#132
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
That would explain why I can't find the wires Ok so I guess my next stop is at the fuel relay to see if that things is wired right. The walbro should be audible when it turns on, shouldn't it? I can't hear it.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
I noticed that the fuel gauge is not alive. Wondering if the sender took a dump too? I really don't want to have to drop the tank again.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Maybe. But everything else is working. I'll have to do some trouble shooting tomorrow.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
You'll love those subframe connectors, I know I do! I have absolutely no wheel hop
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
What kind of voltage should I see across the fuel pump relay from 30 to 87? When the ignition switch is turned on I should see 12ish volts, shouldn't I? If I'm not, then what is the issue? Ignition and fuel relay are grounded on the same ground and when checking with a volt meter the 30 to 85 (85 being ground) I get about 12.22 V.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Should be 12ish volts just on the battery, 14.4v when running. I shot you a PM
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Im not 100% sure what you did for fuel pump wiring... But I would be checking grounds if you messed with any of the original harness. I had an issue with the ground under my rear seat, causing my pump not to run on swap #2. Had me scratching my head for quite a while.
That purple and yellow wire is in fact the clutch safety switch. Not to be confused with the clutch anticipate switch...which kills cruise control, and also tells the PCM that the clutch is in on an LS car. Those are the SAME wires that are up at the neutral safety switch for the auto shifter. In both my 86 and 87...the clutch switch wires were already there. With different plugs.. As far as I could tell...82-86 had one style of switch, then 87-02 used the same switch. Since you are going with an auto...just tuck those wires away. If you ever switch to a manual trans, you would cut the wires at the neutral safety switch, twist them together, then use those wires by the kick panel for the clutch safety switch.
Those SFCs look pretty nice... S&W seems to be a great company. Ive been going back and forth with them for awhile about a 8pt roll bar. They arent too far from me and Ive seen the shop. They build some nice stuff.
J.
That purple and yellow wire is in fact the clutch safety switch. Not to be confused with the clutch anticipate switch...which kills cruise control, and also tells the PCM that the clutch is in on an LS car. Those are the SAME wires that are up at the neutral safety switch for the auto shifter. In both my 86 and 87...the clutch switch wires were already there. With different plugs.. As far as I could tell...82-86 had one style of switch, then 87-02 used the same switch. Since you are going with an auto...just tuck those wires away. If you ever switch to a manual trans, you would cut the wires at the neutral safety switch, twist them together, then use those wires by the kick panel for the clutch safety switch.
Those SFCs look pretty nice... S&W seems to be a great company. Ive been going back and forth with them for awhile about a 8pt roll bar. They arent too far from me and Ive seen the shop. They build some nice stuff.
J.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
**Edit** I read what you said wrong, but the NSS from the auto and manual should be in parallel since the manual stuff has nothing connected on the auto car, still shouldnt need to splice anything
#143
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Im not 100% sure what you did for fuel pump wiring... But I would be checking grounds if you messed with any of the original harness. I had an issue with the ground under my rear seat, causing my pump not to run on swap #2. Had me scratching my head for quite a while.
I tested the grounds and they are 0.04 ohm, so continuity is good. I'm not sure what the deal is but the pump is not engaging and the fuel gauge is dead. Only thing I can think of at this point is to make sure the connector at the tank is properly connected. And if that ain't it, then I have no idea what to look for next.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
As for your fuel pump issue...i think you are at a spot now where you just have to triple check it all. Only takes on broken wire or crap connection to muck up the works. Also...im not sure if you tested the pump, but hot wiring it to check it might not be a bad idea. Its rare...but they can be DOA. Its happened before.
Good luck tracking the gremlin down. You're so close!
J.
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
We are all cheering for ya!
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Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Perhaps I was a bit wordy with my response. That happens since I can't work on my car and I get bored haha. But that's basically what I said. I was just sort of feeding him some info on the wires in question.
As for your fuel pump issue...i think you are at a spot now where you just have to triple check it all. Only takes on broken wire or crap connection to muck up the works. Also...im not sure if you tested the pump, but hot wiring it to check it might not be a bad idea. Its rare...but they can be DOA. Its happened before.
Good luck tracking the gremlin down. You're so close!
J.
As for your fuel pump issue...i think you are at a spot now where you just have to triple check it all. Only takes on broken wire or crap connection to muck up the works. Also...im not sure if you tested the pump, but hot wiring it to check it might not be a bad idea. Its rare...but they can be DOA. Its happened before.
Good luck tracking the gremlin down. You're so close!
J.
#147
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Car: '89 GTA
Engine: 5.7L LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Did you get this sorted out? You have to use the torque arm mount from a 4th gen because the 3rd gen one has a different pattern. The 3rd gen mount has a completely different bolt pattern and does not crossover.
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Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: Supercharged 6.0
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 3.73
Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
I ran into the TA mount issue because I never heard about the mount being incompatible
Welded a small tab onto the 3rd gen mount and reused the rearmost hole so Im using 2/3. No issues so far
Welded a small tab onto the 3rd gen mount and reused the rearmost hole so Im using 2/3. No issues so far
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 6.0L LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: '87 Formula getting the LSx treatment
Thanks
Yes and no. No in the sense that I am not dropping the tranny back down to use the 3rd gen mount. I'm not sure why but the 700R4 leaves you with just enough room to get the bolts in and out and the 4L60E not so much. There is no way in hell that the bolt will go back in. So I'm forking out another couple of hundred bucks for the SWracecars torque arm since I'm using their sub frame connector and it has the mount built in. What's another few hundred in the big scheme of things
I've checked the voltages and the resistance at the fuse block and it all reads the way it should. Grounds are good.
Tonight I'm checking to make sure the connector is seated properly back at the tank.
Question on testing the circuit from the relay to the connector on the body side of the tank. With ignition in "off" the circuit should be closed right? In that case I should be getting some random number for resistance. With ignition turned to "on" the circuit should open and resistance should be close to 0 ohm, but only for a few seconds, right? If all this is true I can at least eliminate that portion of the wiring.
Now on to the pump it self. I'm assuming the pump and sender are a closed circuit with the ignition in "off". With ignition "on" I should again get an open circuit, right? So if all this checks out, the pump and sender is good.
Lastly, hot wiring the pump at the relay did not work. So I should be able to take a couple of jumper wires to the connector at the tank and try, right?
Thanks for reading my book....sorry
As for your fuel pump issue...i think you are at a spot now where you just have to triple check it all. Only takes on broken wire or crap connection to muck up the works. Also...im not sure if you tested the pump, but hot wiring it to check it might not be a bad idea. Its rare...but they can be DOA. Its happened before.
Good luck tracking the gremlin down. You're so close!
J.
Good luck tracking the gremlin down. You're so close!
J.
Tonight I'm checking to make sure the connector is seated properly back at the tank.
Question on testing the circuit from the relay to the connector on the body side of the tank. With ignition in "off" the circuit should be closed right? In that case I should be getting some random number for resistance. With ignition turned to "on" the circuit should open and resistance should be close to 0 ohm, but only for a few seconds, right? If all this is true I can at least eliminate that portion of the wiring.
Now on to the pump it self. I'm assuming the pump and sender are a closed circuit with the ignition in "off". With ignition "on" I should again get an open circuit, right? So if all this checks out, the pump and sender is good.
Lastly, hot wiring the pump at the relay did not work. So I should be able to take a couple of jumper wires to the connector at the tank and try, right?
Thanks for reading my book....sorry