This feels like the night before Christmas. A few more hours yet, before I can play with my new toys. I'll definitely post up a pic this evening.

 

Well, it seems I was wrong about my '86. Now the fuel pump magically doesn't pump, despite it working when I drove the car home. The pump couldn't have worn out since then, there was no battery in the car while I was replacing the engine.
Anyway, I did get the new mounts for this project, and got them in place.

I guess the next step is to position the engine, and start trimming some cardboard.
I don't have my oil pan yet, can anyone with the 1" setback get me a measurement, vertically, from the rear edge of the engine crossmember, to the pan rail part of the oil pan, please?
I'm guessing something around 3"-4"?
Maybe it would be easier and adequate if I could get a measurement at the firewall, how far down from something to the topmost edge of your 4L60E?
Maybe all I need is the max depth of the pan, on the outside, at the front of the sump.
Then I just run a straightedge from the crossmember to the rear of the trans pan, and measure up from that?
Anyway, I'll greatly appreciate any helpful measurements anyone might contribute.

 

I got it figured out.

 

Try this:

Stock 700R4 crossmember, bolt the 4L60E trans up like normal

Standard SBC mounts attached like usual

Make some blank plates bolted to the engine leaving the front two bolts out per side to clear. Install with the engine just resting on the mounts. Use a sharpie to outline or put a few tach welds to finalize position. Trim for bolt clearance and finish weld or drill for through bolts. Quick and easy mounts. Mod the trans crossmember later or build a replacement

 

I'll consider that, Pocket. Thanks for sharing the idea!
I'm still angry at the PO of my '86, details are in my thread in the V6 sub-forum, but I now have the new fuel pump in hand, so this project is on hold for a few days.

 

If it helps anyone, i scored these off Ebay for 60$ shipped, nice pieces i must say, my first aluminum pair as well:




Notice the mounting points for the clam shells are dropped to make them mount in a position so no modification what so ever is needed.

 

Yeah, sure, no mods....unless you try to combine them with Moroso! Lemme explain: with the Mickelson 5/16"-thick, 1"-setback plates, I got the driver's side all connected, then went around to the passenger side. The hole mis-alignment, for the big 1/2" x 4.5" horizontal bolt, was off by a full 1/2"!
Now, if your plates are 1/4" of offset, and if the sides of the block are at a 45 degree angle, then the total improvement comes out at 1/4", not the 1/2" I found.
But I don't mind you posting them here.

 

Well, i have used moroso solid mounts, they are on my 89 RS with the 6.0, i had to slot the clam shells, now they are fine but ended up bending the driver motor mount bolt so i had to basically install a removable bar that connects to the engine to prevent flex. With the energy suspension stock replacement urethane mounts i had the same issue, i am sure these plates dropping the mounts down actually will make it a direct fit. Only issue is that these were the last set they were selling on Ebay and i dont know what they will be selling for now that there is no more "special".

 

Zoiks! My Morosos work fine with my 350. Just not this set-up.

 

Look in the September 2011 HotRod if you want to see a horsepower monster LS. They were trying to blow up the stock rotating assembly, it didn't work for them.

 

I thought I was back to this project. I was 100% sure my v6 was ready to run. But it seems like the injectors aren't working. They have signal and fuel, for sure. Anyone know anything about tapping on them with an extension and a hammer? That seems scary. I can't afford a new set!

 

Business is slow this morning, so I put the wires back where they were yesterday, then had a helper crank it while I tried spraying gas into the TB. It kinda sorta caught a few times, so I'm sure it's the injectors.

 

Well, I finally got my new issue of HotRod, with the 1200 HP, twin-T76, race-gas 4.8L in it, and I'm now thinking about a Strange S60 axle. After all, I only want to build it once.
But that's a ways off.
Right now, I'm having much difficulty finding a replacement set of new stock main bolts. I threw my originals out because I thought they were as non-re-use-able as the head bolts. Now I have no bolts at all for the machine shop to hone my block.
I'm not wanting ARP.
Thanks in advance for any help!

 

No progress, but the bores should be honed tomorrow afternoon. It's the anticipation of a kid expecting a huge birthday party. Or very similar.

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...l#post15237528

 

Finally got my '86 'maro running. I was beginning to doubt if I'd ever get that stupid 3.4L going.
But now that I can drive that one, I can get back to this project!

 

I got my main bolt situation sorted out! Moving on!

 

Man, those mounts worked great in my GMC, never had any slide on so well into the engine compartment.

 

Nice!

 

They were a great fit, worth the 60$ for sure.

 

I finally got around to sending Nickelson a message about my no-fit.
I've been thinking about plates that also move the mounts down, which is closer together. But I'm worried that this may raise the engine, toward the hood.
And I still don't have an oil pan. Yesterday I got $26 for my old truck pan.
Once I do get a pan, and do another test-fit, I may just have the block pads milled 1/4" each.

 

Those DirtyDingo plates look like the same position as the Hooker 12611s.

 

Thats supposed to be quick?? Where you spinning trying to run those numbers or was the engine in a truck?

On 275/40/R17 drag radials and lighter 17" rims, I ram 8.48 @ 80.85 with a 1.87s 60' in my quad cab Hemi Ram with the stock 5.7 longblock save for the torque cam and 6.1 springs. I made 378/374 on the dyno as well. Its hard to believe that your car is 2,000 lbs less, only has a few less RWHP yet only runs 1/2 second quicker.

I am considering installing the 5.7 Hemi into a 3rd gen camaro with a ultra-belled TH400 behind it. Carbureted high rise single plane, MSD Ignition, Quick Fuel 750 carb, SRT8 exhaust manifolds, and single 3.5" exhaust. I would be shamed if the car didn't go 7.20s on motor.

 

Well a 1/2 second in the 1/8 is a big difference But still, 350whp should be a 7.6-7.7's car easily if the launch is a 1.6-1.70 60 ft. My buddy's 330whp 3rd gen runs 7.7's best with a 1.6x. 7.9's in heat with 1.7x's. My estimated 340whp 99 TA ran 8.13 on a 1.83 60 ft. So much left in it with more gear and slicks.

 

For now, an 8-flat would suit me just fine.
I'm no longer sold on that 222/228-113 cam.
Speed Inc. has a street turbo cam 216/216-114, 561/561 that appeals to me.

 

In a 89 GT car, full interior with roll bad, we had the 5.3 in it bone stock long block, carbed Vic Jr and full lengths, went 7.9 on our best attempt all motor and 6.7 on a 1.50 shot. I thought it was very good for what it was.

 

I'm making progress on the Nickelson plates. Here's his reply: "Thanks for the info, I would like to know a little more details on this as I have actually done this swap and ran into this exact problem. Do you know the part number of the Moroso solid mount you tried, as there are four different heights and widths? Were they in the car with a small block prior to installing the LS based engine? What lower mount are you trying to use? I did a '99 5.7 F-body engine and 4L60E into an '89 IROC-Z with the standard adapter plates, not the 1" set backs, as firewall clearance is tense enough in these cars. We did have to notch the engine crossmember to clear the F-body pan, but otherwise everything fit perfect. We used small block rubber frame mounts and then he bought Moroso solid mounts but they were too tall, so we just used the factory clam shells and it worked great. Come to find out Moroso makes four different ones and he had bought the cheapest ones and they where the tallest ones. I think the part number for the '82 - '92 Camaro / Firebird is 62510, they measure 2 1/8" from the flat mounting side to the center of the motor mount through bolt."
Then he typed conditions of refund.
My response basically stated that I'm not upset, nor seeking refund. In a couple of days I will try bolting the Moroso 62510 block halves to the Moroso 62610 frame halves, bolt the Nickelson plates to my bare 5.3L block, then set the engine in the car. From there I'll level the engine side-to-side, then use White-out to mark the plates through the Moroso holes.
I figure I better do it now, before the 350 goes in while I build my 5.3L.

 

yeah i got my 352 hp 5.3/3200 vig. converter into the 7.9's.. thats insane dropping to a 6.7 on a 150.

 

You must not be 60 footing very well, we were on a trans brake and 3800 nitrous converter for motor and nitrous passes.

 

Yeah 1.9's 60'.... And I couldnt really get any rpm on the footbrake. Wish ida ran the 4k circle d converter I had before I went 6 speed.

 

I have my 5.3 back in my '84, on the Moroso / Nickelson combo. It looks like those Dirtydingo plates would be the solution, but they're no longer offering this exact version.
I'm probably just going to modify my Nickelson plates, but hopefully he will do something for future buyers, as his stuff is otherwise great, and only $34.
I'll post pics ASAP.

 

The Hooker pieces look like they mount like mine, but i did not like the 80$ some od price tag.

 

The Hookers are supposed to be 1.25", and that could create new problems.
And yours are aluminum, and aluminum has a much shorter fatigue life than steel, plus aluminum breaks when steel only bends.
If I'm in a high speed crash, I don't want the plates to break, letting my engine crush my right leg.

 

what was the mph? summer heat night?

 

Could not agree more, those pieces i posted went in my truck, i do not worry about impact since it is not a car, my cars have steel plates for the reasons of making allot of power the aluminum would be questionable.


Yea, good old Houston humidity, sweaty night. Cannot remember the MPH, i will see if i can find out.

 

Pass on N20 was 103 MPH, cannot find the motor times.

 

I vertically slotted the holes in the plates, downward, and it all bolted together nicely. So I test-fitted the heads, manifolds and coil packs. It all fits really well. I'll try to do pics tonight.
Worth noting is that I'm using all grade-8 hardware, and the bolts have flared heads, so washers aren't needed. But I ran out of nuts, so I used grade 5 for this test-fit.
With the trans bolted in place, and the block bolted to the trans, and the front of the block hung as high as the trans-to-firewall allows, I put the bolts through the plates before attaching the plates to the block very tightly. So now the bolts are effectively captured studs. They just slide up and down, but wrench access is adequate because I made the slots long when I did the clearance grinding on the block.
Then I fitted the Moroso uppers to the plates, but not snug. Just barely hanging there by 1 thread on each nut. Next I lowered the block until I could get the big horizotal bolts in.
At that point, I tightened everything up.
In summary, the Hooker plates will be the hot ticket for using these Moroso mounts.

 

This week I've been taking all my pics with my cellphone, so that's why the delay. The camera I was using no longer uploads pics to my PC, even with 2 new USB cables.