As the title states...I'm in the process of my LSx swap and am using the stock 4th gen throttle cable. I'm just curious if this is how you all have your cable run and if it's holding up ok? Obviously the angle is not 100% when using the stock 3rd gen firewall hole and it puts the metal inner line against the plastic outer sleeve. Have any of you had any problems with it like this after long term use?? I'm just concerned the metal cable will eat itself through the housing!

 

I would trim the plastic a little i think.

Side note: do you have a part number for the non traction control cable? I need one but can't find the part number.

 

Part # for the non TC cable I used is 12565559. Cost me $32 at the GM dealer. Thats for the 98-99 style cable though. The 98-99 style cable only works on the 98-99 throttle body and vice versa, so make sure you find out what throttle body you have before ordering.

 

Thanks! only problem is i'm running a nick williams 92mm on a ls3 intake. I'll call scoggin dickey and see what they say

 

I think it'll be fine... Im not sure how mine is. I bent my 3rd gen pedal arm some though. And I also tied a knot/used zip ties to shorten the cable up some. I didnt use a washer on the firewall, my cable just snapped in and seemed really secure. Never had any issues.

If you were slamming on/off the pedal like you were sending morse code I would think you might have an issue. But for normal use, I think it'll be ok.

Ill see if I can dig up a picture of mine.

J.

P.S... Keep an eye on your pedal braces. I had mine bolted on top of the juke padding at first. And I noticed that even with the nuts really tight, there was some play. The stock padding (which it looks like you ditched) had little cut outs around the master cylinder. Some where for wires...but some didnt have any firewall holes or marks behind them. I BELIEVE they were meant to pass those brace arms through and behind the padding, so that you were sandwiching the firewall between the master cylinder and braces. Vs. having the padding in there. You might not have a problem...but just an experience that I had. You can see the upper left cut out in this pic (a + shape cut). The other is kind of hidden behind the brake pedal.

 

J,

Thanks for the heads up. I don't plan on mashing the gas a bunch of times a day but it will be more of a weekend warrior...meaning it will be abused on weekends and driven normally during the week lol. I'll keep an eye on it but it it turns into a problem area, it's a simple enough thing to figure out a fix for.

As for the jute padding on the firewall, I used neoprene padding. If you compress it, it basically flattens out completely...not like the factory matting. Everything I've bolted on top of it seems very firm and secure so I think I'm ok in that aspect, but I will have to keep an eye on that as well. Gotta love doing major mods on a car.... GM had an entire factory to build it, and I have a garage!

 

Haha at least you have a garage! I had two car spots worth of driveway haha. Well...I had a garage to stash crap in and do some minor work I guess. But yeah I cant even imagine how awesome it would be to have CNC, TIG machines, water jets, lifts, space etc available to build in.

Anyway...Yeah I wasnt sure what you used for padding. If it compresses that tight you might be ok. I had major issues fighting with my clutch set up, so when I noticed even a little play with my padding I went around it. Just wanted to tell ya about it just in case.

Car is comin along good man! Looking forward to seeing it finished up!

J.

 

Looking at where the cable meets the firewall doesnt look right. Is the cable on there strait?

Also, before you button up under the dash, make sure the TB blade opens fully at WOT. All of the cars Ive messed with needed some minor adjustment

 

I remember seeing your build thread. I give you a lot of credit for doing an LSx swap in the driveway haha! Don't know If I could pull it off (or if I'm THAT motivated). Anyways, just picked up a welder so pics of a turbo sitting in the engine bay will be coming soon.

It's as straight as I can get it. I riveted a washer to the firewall and it's flush with it. Cable just snaps into the washer. IDK if the 98-99 cable is slightly different than the newer ones but my stock 3rd gen cable has a downward slope built into the cable whereas the 4th gen one just goes through the firewall straight. All I can think of is to weld a new section of rod to the upper pedal assy and extend the arm to make the cable's pull more straight. I don't want to go cutting the firewall if it's avoidable. And me and my brother checked for wot and it's good. With the pedal down all the way the throttle blade doesn't budge anymore open at all.

Heres a pic of the engine bay side of the cable. Right through the stock 3rd gen spot and flat. Cable is all the way in.

 

I wouldnt worry about it then

 

I used the Lokar cable and still had that issue. Fortunately with the adjustment it had I was able to bring the end of the cable housing closer to the firewall on the inside.

But anyway I also ended up bending my pedal over quite a bit because there seemed to be alot of drag on it, some of which was caused by the cable bracket on the intake being to steep(I slotted one of the attachment holes).

Even after all of that I can still feel that slight bit of friction and it bothers the crap out of me, but it wouldn't be 100% without more really unnecessary fabrication.

 

White,

My pedal feel is great actually....feels just like stock! I'm not going to worry much about it until (that is IF) it becomes a problem. The cable is cheap enough and if I have to get another, then I have to get another. If it wears faster than average, I'll fix the problem by modifying the pedal, but until then, I'll just continue on with the project!