Swap wiring cleanup...
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Swap wiring cleanup...
So the wiring on my swap is horrid. However, it's been so reliable up until now that I haven't touched anything under the hood. Now my OCD is cracking down and I need to get rid of the rats nest. I have a few random questions though.
Has anyone ran wires between the intake manifold (LS6 style) and valley cover? At the very least I'd like to run the IAC and TPS wires through there to hide them.
What is the purpose of the redundant coil connection? Can I get rid of the large center connector? Is that what guys do that relocate their coils?
Has anyone ran a bulkhead style connection (ala c100) that would support enough wires for the engine itself? I'd like to poke a hole right behind the intake and feed the harness through there.
Thanks for any help guys.
Has anyone ran wires between the intake manifold (LS6 style) and valley cover? At the very least I'd like to run the IAC and TPS wires through there to hide them.
What is the purpose of the redundant coil connection? Can I get rid of the large center connector? Is that what guys do that relocate their coils?
Has anyone ran a bulkhead style connection (ala c100) that would support enough wires for the engine itself? I'd like to poke a hole right behind the intake and feed the harness through there.
Thanks for any help guys.
Re: Swap wiring cleanup...
Ive seen the intake wires ran under the intake on a few swaps but wouldnt recommend it on a car thats used semi regularly. Easy to pinch a wire and vibrations will slowly chew through the thin wire jackets. Keep them nice and tidy along the drivers injector bundle for a clean install. I like to keep the TPS pigtail under 1" long so the bundle looks like it curls up for the IAC alone. Another thing is to straiten the injector pigtails as much as possible then push the bundles down from OEM over the rails to the base of the injectors along that channel
Coil connector is for speed of installation on the assembly line. Much easier to plop the pre-assembled coil bracket with all the coils and one connector than to do each one at a time then do 4 connectors. Simple way to make them less noticeable is to depin the white connector and replace it with a black 7 pin from a JY
The engine harness requires about 100 wires to run, not counting a few extras. Ive yet to come across a bulkhead large enough. Much easier to cut a hole and seal it up after the bundle is passed through
Coil connector is for speed of installation on the assembly line. Much easier to plop the pre-assembled coil bracket with all the coils and one connector than to do each one at a time then do 4 connectors. Simple way to make them less noticeable is to depin the white connector and replace it with a black 7 pin from a JY
The engine harness requires about 100 wires to run, not counting a few extras. Ive yet to come across a bulkhead large enough. Much easier to cut a hole and seal it up after the bundle is passed through
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,109
Likes: 25
From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Swap wiring cleanup...
Ive seen the intake wires ran under the intake on a few swaps but wouldnt recommend it on a car thats used semi regularly. Easy to pinch a wire and vibrations will slowly chew through the thin wire jackets. Keep them nice and tidy along the drivers injector bundle for a clean install. I like to keep the TPS pigtail under 1" long so the bundle looks like it curls up for the IAC alone. Another thing is to straiten the injector pigtails as much as possible then push the bundles down from OEM over the rails to the base of the injectors along that channel
Coil connector is for speed of installation on the assembly line. Much easier to plop the pre-assembled coil bracket with all the coils and one connector than to do each one at a time then do 4 connectors. Simple way to make them less noticeable is to depin the white connector and replace it with a black 7 pin from a JY
Hrmm... Damn. Would it be a bad idea to run the wires into the cowl pan first? I'm really just trying to avoid the huge convoluted mess that snakes over/between the valve cover and heater box. I have what is close to 2" split loom over the harness right there. I'd like to hide that.
Re: Swap wiring cleanup...
Valid points. I was at the very minimum going to sheath in techflex and a heat wrap overtop to prevent heat cracking on long drives. (ala this.) Bad idea? I may end up feeding into the passenger side injector harness then.
Never a bad idea, just difficult to do
Black connector? Know what kind of rig this would be yanked off of? I don't really want to keep any connector there. Seems a bit redundant on a hotrod type car. Has anyone mount the coils together down on the frame rails? I think that would help clean up the top of the motor.
Check around in the local JY. IIRC FWD vans and 3.8 econo cars have them. Cut the connector out and solder the wires solid if that suits you. Best look is to move the coil harness into the injector bundle. My SC swap required the pass coils be relocated to the framerail and they look awesome down there. Brake lines, prop valve and steering shaft prevent doing the same on the drivers side. Will look silly if you dont have a very good reason for it then. Clean up the coils, tuck the wiring back as much as possible, snip those ugly white locks off the Fbody harness and put a fresh coat of paint on the brackets. They will clean up 10x better
Hrmm... Damn. Would it be a bad idea to run the wires into the cowl pan first? I'm really just trying to avoid the huge convoluted mess that snakes over/between the valve cover and heater box. I have what is close to 2" split loom over the harness right there. I'd like to hide that.
Never a bad idea, just difficult to do
Black connector? Know what kind of rig this would be yanked off of? I don't really want to keep any connector there. Seems a bit redundant on a hotrod type car. Has anyone mount the coils together down on the frame rails? I think that would help clean up the top of the motor.
Check around in the local JY. IIRC FWD vans and 3.8 econo cars have them. Cut the connector out and solder the wires solid if that suits you. Best look is to move the coil harness into the injector bundle. My SC swap required the pass coils be relocated to the framerail and they look awesome down there. Brake lines, prop valve and steering shaft prevent doing the same on the drivers side. Will look silly if you dont have a very good reason for it then. Clean up the coils, tuck the wiring back as much as possible, snip those ugly white locks off the Fbody harness and put a fresh coat of paint on the brackets. They will clean up 10x better
Hrmm... Damn. Would it be a bad idea to run the wires into the cowl pan first? I'm really just trying to avoid the huge convoluted mess that snakes over/between the valve cover and heater box. I have what is close to 2" split loom over the harness right there. I'd like to hide that.
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 8
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: Magnacharged LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 4:11's
Re: Swap wiring cleanup...
You can get MIL spec bulkhead connectors to work for your harness...they are pricey though.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Lawrence KS
Car: 91 z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42
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