Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

Will these work? put the C shaped mount on the engine and the rubber on the k member like stock?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...92958269104644


I read the rules and unless i missed it can we post ebay links?

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

They will work if you don't intend to have a/c. With most ls accessory configurations, the a/c compressor occupies the same space as the factory clam shell mounts that those adapters work with.

Spohn's mounts use the 4th gen clam shells so that you can retain a/c, although you'll still need to notch the k-member. Another option is to utilize an aftermarket a/c mount that mounts it up high, but those are generally expensive and in my opinion, ugly.

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

Cool thanks for the reply...

I plan on making some custom brackets to move stuff around

i have almost got everything to do this swap


I plan on making a build thread when i get some stuff worth while


PS are all swap mounts 1" set back?

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

the spohn/hawks are considered 1" setback. it keeps the motor and trans in the same spot as a regular sbc so no custom drive shaft is required. you can get plate mounts in "standard" and 1" setback, but you'll have issues with kmember clearance with the non-setbacks. i tried both style plates and stuck with the setbacks.

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

The ones in the link are set back right??? They look like they are

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

those are standard, not setback. you can tell because they share a bolt hole between the old and new mounting points. here's a better comparison between the two:

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

That is all i have ever used on 5 or 6 swaps i have done now, they work fine but the best so far has been the set backs that also drop down a touch, the others i had to grind the bolt holes in 1/8th inch to the inside or so.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I used those on my LS1/4L60E swap. I used Spohn mounts on the LS1/T56 swap, and personally I don't like the set-back - I still had to notch the K-member for oil pan clearance.

As long as you aren't advertising, you can post eBay links. In this case, you are referencing an item for technical information, which is fine.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Bringing this thread back from the dead. I have the Spohn motor mounts and the LS1 clamshells. Does anyone have a picture of how the Spohn mounts line up. Did you have to drill new holes in the Kmember? Also, did you have to notch the kmember for oil pan clearance?
Thanks

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Do you have the instructions that came with the Spohn mounts? They explain placement and hole drilling.

If you drop the K-member and install the engine on it, then install the two into the car, you can probably get by without notching.

This was before I notched (dropped this one in from the top):




View from bottom w/notch. It would be tight without the notch, but with dropping it from the top, it had to be notched in order to slide in.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

I didn't get any instructions with the Spohn mounts. I ordered them from Hawks in November. My plan is to drop the engine in from the top and I see what you mean about having enough room to slide the motor in to position.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Have Hawks send you a copy of the instructions.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

I emailed Hawks, but I think I figured it out on my own by looking at some pics of other peoples swaps. After looking at it for a while I realized that the front two holes on them spohn mounts need to line up with the back two holes on the K member. Thanks five7. I'm sure I'll have a lot of more questions once my motor gets back from the shop.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Tried dropping the motor in tonight. We could get one bolt in on a mount, but the other side is about an inch off. I have no idea what could be wrong here. I have the spohn motor mounts. Labeled L on drivers side of car. Can the clamshells be on backwards? We're scratching our heads here. No idea

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

i had a little issue when i was dropping my motor in with the swap plates. found it was easier to leave the bolts loose on the frame side of the mounts loose (nut on so they wouldn't fall out). allowed for a lot more adjustment when trying to get the long bolts in. once all the bolts were in place, tighten everything down and good to go.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

That's what I'm thinking.....I just got fed up with it last night. I got the drivers side bolt in but the passenger side was just a little off. Going to loosen some bolts this weekend and give it another shot. Thanks

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

I used simular ones but I just cant remember offhand right now wh made them. Anyways as long as they are the set back ones they will work fine. I also didnt need to cut my K-Member at all like everyone else. I grinded the weld down flat and flattend the area with a hammer and I have a good quarter inch there. I welded solid mounts to my K-member so this wont work if you dont use solid ones but anyways. I liked the adapters as they where good quaility that I got and worked perfect. If I find out who made them ill let you know

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

So do we need to move the k member motor mount location or does the 1" setback take care of this?

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

stock v8 mount location on the kmember.

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

thank god..... i was not looking forward to moving them back.