STREETDEMON

next project of the day was removing the interior. wow, not my favorite job.



i'm hoping this was from my first turndown that i fabricated. otherwise the cutout is getting moved!




i did get the back wall, tunnel, and the floors up to the firewall covered with fatmat. i forgot to take pictures. i've got some extra left need to plan out how much more i want to tear apart.

i've never been much of a loud stereo guy. my money has always gone towards go-fast parts. however, seeing as i don't want to pull the interior again, i will probably wire up sub/amp connections and just leave them unhooked and under the carpet. that way if i ever decide to go that route, i don't have to pull everything out again!

ransam

iTrader: (2)

Great job on the build i have a very similar setup to what you have but im running a stalled th350 instead of the m6. I am very curious as to what numbers you put down but i didnt see if youve made it to the chassis dyno yet? I am almost ready to by hedders and think the hustler are a great option. I would like to see what kind of power they put down before i pull the pin on these.

Podium

iTrader: (2)

3 inch exhaust?

STREETDEMON

2.5" off the headers to a 3" y-pipe.

STREETDEMON

the rear is back under the car for the first test fit!

pics of the truing bar and discs







here are some pictures of the hybrid all together...need to finish burning in the lcarb's and fabricate a new mount for the torque arm to move it more towards the passenger side of the car.




i will get everything mocked up with the ta mount, and then pull the rear end to put in a new pinion bearing and seal, clean and paint, install axle bearings and beat on it!

on a side note, i may have to go back to my 3" steel driveshaft(or have something made), i don't think there will be room for my nice aluminum unit and the jegster torque arm.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

looking good !!

how hard is it too keep the engine clean with the white .

STREETDEMON

its not too tough for me i guess. the car isn't a daily driver, but it still sees 3/4 of a mile of gravel road before it hits the blacktop. just takes a rag once in a while when i'm washing it.

STREETDEMON

update time.

work on the car has been slow. end of the school year for the kids with lots of activities, and with spring/summer upon us, taking care of the yard has been a priority.

i did finish fab'ing up the mount for the jegster torque arm. so things should go a little quicker now. this has been holding me up more than anything, now i can finish installing all the jegster stuff and get the rearend pulled back out to set up the gear, check over the welds, install axle bearings and seals, and paint.

on a side note, my aftermarket 3.5" aluminum driveshaft does not give me enough clearance for the jegster mount up front....definitely bummed about this, time to get a denny's i guess.









i had to do some clearancing for the 8.8 yoke that goes on the driveshaft. the pinion flange itself has ample cleanrance, but the yoke has extra hanging outside of the flange.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

That is a bummer. Just FYI, Denny's has a sale going now on their drive shafts. I think it's like $30 off. I just ordered mine last week.

Keep up the good work!

STREETDEMON

thanks dave, i did see that on their web page this morning. now i just need to get myself talked into making the call!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

Any pics of the mount on the rearend itself?

STREETDEMON

matt, i don't have any from last night. by the time i got done with the finish welding i didn't feel like crawling back under the car. i'll see about getting some for you tonight. anything specific you're looking for?

STREETDEMON

long weekend, for doing domestic stuff! lots of landscaping and yardwork this weekend.

made it to the garage on monday for some wrench time.

got the jegster torque arm completely installed. checked all of my clearances and only had 1 place that needed some extra room. good lord that rearend is heavy with everything on it.

i had all intentions of getting my interior put back in yesterday, but an unexpected trip to town for an air drill and some flat washers ate up an hour of my time....kids' ball games started at 6, so i had to hang up my spurs for the day.

i did get the rearend pulled back out from under the car, it will go in this week to get the gear setup. then i'll finish weld it, install the axles, and paint it up.

still working on the driveshaft issue.

pic of the fatmat in the car

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

I'm curious to see an underside where your headers end up I would like to know how hard to route around crewmember. Might do this instead of longtubes. So does that torque arm mount not have a sliding link? I would be concerned about bind or even tearing up your floor as axle moves up and down. As it moves up and down the lca arc. Which,when looking from side, "shorten" and "lengthen" wheelbase meaning something has to give like that mount

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

yes, it has a sliding link. you can see it in the 4th picture.

mount looks good, if you think about it, i'd like to see it from the top and sides too.

STREETDEMON

91, try post #95 on page 2, there is a picture from the bottom side.

i'll grab some for you tonight matt, i've got the rear out of the car and that end of the mount is still attached.

STREETDEMON

dropped the housing off today to have a new pinion bearing/seal/crush sleeve put in and have the gear set up. it's raining, again, here today, over 6 inches in the last 3 days....so i have a feeling i won't be coaching my 6 year old in baseball tonight. maybe the interior will get put back in!

matt here are some more pictures.

STREETDEMON

rear end is in!

only thing lacking is filling it with oil, drive shaft, and setting the pinion angle.

i've got a precision 355 u-joint to install in my old stock ds to get me rolling until i decide what to do for a better drive shaft.

i also added more "turn-down" to my cutout turn down.





you can see where the exhaust hasn't been directed down or out very well....

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

that looks GREAT man. where did you buy the conversion mount "saddle"? also, what was used to weld it to the rearend.

STREETDEMON

matt, the mount was a "kit" from a member on ls1tech. hiltsy855, he has an awesome build thread on his car. completely fab'd up his 8.8 with new tubes and mounts, his exhaust is the single coolest street car setup i have ever seen on an 3rd/4th gen fbody.

i welded it up with nickel rod using a stick welder. the housing was pre-heated to around 400* and then i laid down the welds. afterwards i did some post heating to relieve the stress and covered the whole thing up with floor dry to retard the cooling. i also added in an extra brace that hiltsy doesn't use. i went from the driverside behind the modified jegster ta mount up to the tube.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

very nice. did you preheat in the oven? or use a torch? i've not done any welding on cast before...is the saddle mount mild steel?

STREETDEMON

i used a rosebud on an oxy/act torch to heat it up. the mount itself is mild, this is the first i have done with welding mild steel to cast. you just have to take your time and not rush the cooling so the welds don't crack.

STREETDEMON

picked up a used denny's nitrous ready shaft.....did a little too much assuming, thinking it's about 1.5" too short....

denny's lead time is about 2 weeks right now....might go pst...should have just ordered a new one from the get go, i'm nickel and diming myself into a longer wait period.....

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

PST FTW....that is all

STREETDEMON

pst ordered yesterday and shipped today. he thought 3" mild steel was good enough for what i wanted, with 1350 u-joints of course. way cheaper than i expected, and it includes the 1350 8.8 flange yoke.

need to call mc racing in KC and get a time scheduled next week to get this ol girl on the rollers. its only been a year or two coming....haha.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

that's exactly what shaft i have man. i'm going to put it to the test next friday...5500 rpm two step clutch dumps here i come!

STREETDEMON

for sure man. that will be crazy, get some video.

mc racing said to give them about a 2 or 3 day heads up, looks like i'm taking next friday or thursday off for some play time. i think i'll go over in the morning and swap the plugs out for a fresh set before she goes on the dyno.

edit:

my jegs house brand cutout has always been a little leaky.....well, i decided i'm tired of hearing the racket, so i ordered up a badlanzhpe cutout today. usa made in iowa, the land of corn and hogs.

STREETDEMON

well pst/fedex came through today!

i was happy to see how well they packaged the drive shaft.





saturday morning we'll get to see if this rear end is going to hold together.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

nice! same way mine came it's a super nice box too, lol, i held onto mine and have my spare ls1 aluminum driveshaft stored in it

STREETDEMON

well it works! that was a big "whew" moment.

no odd noises other than a suspension clunk that was there before this process started. i think i have a loose panhard bar support, or one of my bushings is shot on the driverside lca.

setting the pinion angle was very frustrating. there are some many different "correct" ways to do it. i ended up taking a reading from the crank pulley and matching the rearend up to that and then orientating it -2* down. no noise/vibration other than in the top of 3rd which i believe to be harmonics.

can't tell if it's any faster, i'm a little afraid to beat on it. i did dump the clutch at 2800 rmp and it held, so thats good. traction wise, i'm very surprised, the boxed lca's and jegster torque arm plant the tires HARD......edit...just had a thought on not telling if its any faster, i went from a 7.5" to an 8.8" ring gear and lost the light weight aluminum driveshaft, that isn't helping anything.

a few more things to button up before friday's dyno session.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

It will be faster cause you can run better tires now and don't have to worry about it breaking.

STREETDEMON

yeah, its just that "new i don't want to break it" feeling. need to heat up some dr's, say a little prayer, and dump the clutch @ 3500 rpm.

did you run your car this weekend? interested to see some numbers!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

supposed to go this coming friday. i'm pretty sure i can talk someone into holding a camera too.

STREETDEMON

ok....

so i just posted this in the suspension area....please feel free to add any thoughts here though:

"so i'm in a bit of a pickle, or so i think.

when i welded up my founders lower control arm relocation brackets...that don't come with any tips/instructions.....the holes are too far forward, moving the axle a little over an inch off center towards the back.

fixing the issue here is no big deal, adj. lca's or grind and re-weld the brackets. cool.

next issue, i just received my custom PST driveshaft and have my jegster torque arm put in.

so if this axle slides forward an inch i'm worried that that i will lose all the slip in the yokes, both in the driveshaft, and on the jegster....meaning a re-cut on the DS and a re-mount on the jegster.............no bueno."

i'm really hoping i'm over thinking this, and its really not a big deal. as it sits, it's just an aesthetic thing, but i would like the car to look right.

Edit....actual movement of 7/8" required to center wheels

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

how far in is the driveshaft yoke? the jegster slip yoke portion is easy to deal with, just move the mount forward, if you had to.

STREETDEMON

I'll have to do some measuring when I get it back up in the air, I don't remember how much was left on the DS. It would be nice not to have to move the saddle, I'd like to avoid that and the extra set of holes in my floorboard!

It's my own fault for not putting the tires on before, just bellyaching, haha.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

hey dude, i took the car to the track. here's results and video

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...ses-370-a.html

STREETDEMON

dyno numbers are in...

391hp/381tq

didn't hit the 400# that i was looking for, but i'm still very pleased. justin said more cam and more compression, but i explained to him it was not a track car or a racecar. the car does what i want it too and we'll see what the track numbers say. he went and did the street tune and when he came back it put down 371/366. he worked his way up from there.

i think their is some more left in it, my pinion angle has been giving me fits, and i think it was binding a little during the dyno session.

the cutout added 10hp/10tq when opened, so i'll definitely be going to a 3.5" single exhaust. it idles better and drives better, so i'm happy with the end result.

**edit** after running the car at the track at 3660lbs trapping 113mph, the math says 422.5hp to the wheels.

trying to get the pinion angle dialed in has been a headache, the car was smooth all the way up to 130mph plus before. now has a vibration after 70. so that is my new mission.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

nice looking curve man!

STREETDEMON

thanks man, i was pretty happy with it. with the 10 bolt and aluminum driveshaft i'm sure i would have been over 400...so it's all relative i guess.

need to get some drag radials mounted up so i can take her down to topeka.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Agree very nice curve

Why not go 4" ? atleast locally here 3.5" is more expensive then 4" piping

STREETDEMON

i feel like 4" would be overkill in this situation. 3.5" stuff is pretty easy to come by for me, and its supposed to flow 500hp which would suit my needs.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

my 4" catback i built is for sale

STREETDEMON

well after learning from my tuner that he set me up as a SD tune, i'm going to rework my intake tube. this will require an IAT sensor and some new tubing since i'm removing the truck 5-wire maf and gto cai.

i will tackle this first, then it's on to exhaust possibly, and then getting my R4 AC compressor put on for some summer driving.

i've also had an ah-ha moment in regards to moving my axle, i was over thinking the whole situation, with a trim here and there, no new holes will have to be made. so i may end up doing adjustable lca's this winter also.

STREETDEMON

here is a video of one of the dyno runs, this was through the exhaust.

the bottom one is an idle video. you can hear the loose cutout rattling.....

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

sounds nasty man! something about the efi does something to the sound that makes it different than the carbed setups at idle for whatever reason. efi can make a 212/219 cam sound HUGE. yet my 240/250 cam sounds like a tr224, lol!

STREETDEMON

thanks matt, the crazy part is it idles smoother since i had him bump the idle up, it really "hit a lick" before. and i'm still only 10:1cr.

No4Play

With the LQ9 they use a 317 head. you have to mill the heads .040 to get the compression you are looking for. Once that is done you have basically made your own ZO6 243 head (minus the sodium filled light weight exhaust valves). Exact same specs. That's what I did on mine and that what we have done on LQ9 swaps in other customers cars.

STREETDEMON

You are misinformed on this particular topic. LQ9's have flat top pistons unlike the dished in an LQ4, therefore making them a 10:1cr from the factory. Taking . 040 off a set of heads is a lot!

No4Play

We've done at least 15 Lq9 swaps using ls1/ls2 intakes and f body front accessories as well as swaps into 70's and 80's model C10's using milled 317 heads with trailblazer ss intakes. My machine shop has been building drag cars, street cars, and dirt track cars for 20+ years. My heads are milled .040 and I'm using Lq9 rods and a forged lq9 piston. We have used a stock lq9 bottom end with .040 milled heads on a nitrous combo (150 shot) trying to blow it up and have not had an issue. As many customer cars as we've put this combo in we have NEVER had one come back. So I would be safe to say you may be misinformed. The compression ratio milling the 317 heads is around 11.2:1 and thats using a factory head gasket. A .040 milled 317 head is a very similar spec as a 243; it drops the 317 head from a 72cc combustion chamber to around a 64cc combustion chamber.

Video:

My ZO6 v.s customers 89 silverado Stock lq9 bottom end, .040 milled 317 heads, ls1 intake and a 150 shot.