ok...spent some time researching suspension...

I'm learning up on the front strut suspension on the 3rd gen

Here are my current thoughts:
Front suspension:
BMR K-member KM008
BMR A-Arms (for coilover) AA007
QA1 double adjustable strut setup with 300lb springs (I used 275lb springs in in my race car...seemed to work well and I anticiapate this setup being heavier). HD606-12300
QA1 camber/caster plates (required for their struts) CPK106
Wilwood Dynalite Pro Front Drilled and slotted Disc Brakes (not the drag brake setup). These are 11" rotors 140-11012-D

Rear
AFCO double adjustable rear shocks (I really like the AFCOs, but they don't offer anything for the front)
Spohn LCAs (already have)
Spohn PHR (already have)
Madman Torque arm (already have)

 

That sounds like a good list. Are you just going to be drag racing? Will your car spend any time on the street?

This is a great project you have going. That car is going to be a real sleeper and give a lot of newer cars a good run for their money! Ha ha I love that!

 

More street time than track time this go-around

 

I'll figure out the rear brakes as I progress...Most likely will have to narrow the rear end that I bought, so my housing ends can change, currently has GM ends on it with 4th gen brakes.

 

Not sure how much the wilwood setup is but alot of guys run the LS1 4th gen front brake kits on these cars with good success and fairly cheap, and run the 4th gen rear brakes as well (4th gen spec rear)

 

I need to look around, but probably have most of my OEM brakes off my previous 4th gen project...

 

Have you looked at Spohn's Coil over kit with the QA1s in it for the front? It is a well built kit and comes with Caster cmaber plates and all the stuff you need to run them. I have them on my car with a BMR k member and A-Arms, but the car is not road going yet so no real world results from them yet. May be a little cheaper than the route you are going unless money is no option

 

your front spring rates are going to be VASTLY different between 4th gens and 3rd gens. you'll need a much lighter spring on the front of a 3rd gen. something like a 14" 175 or so would probably be in order. a 300lb spring would be more at home on a road course car.

since the spring is at the outside of the a arm, not to the inside like the 4th gens. This creates a difference in the mechanical advantage your lower a arm has over the spring

 

still have to be careful....don't need alot of spring assisted weight transfer in a high hp car....or else you'd end up on the bumper in no time

 

for what they are asking for that kit, I'll get the qa1. I priced the qa1 setup through my proshop discount at summit and its way less cheaper than the 1100-1200 spohn wants for the double adjustable version

 

did some digging. apparently to run 4th gen front brakes requires a fair amount of modification from what I saw. I could easily run the rear brakes, but they fit like sh%t with 15" wheels (have to grind the hell of out the calipers to run 15" wheels and I'm planning on running a 275/60/15 radial)

Priced the Wilwood Dynalite Pro brake kit for the front...687.49 for the solid rotor or 787.49 for the drilled/slotted rotor. Summit proshop pricing is substantially cheaper than that

 

I guess if money isn't a problem then you can go that way. The modification process isn't that hard with the LS1 brakes though. I know about the grinding. I run stock thirdgen brakes in the rear and C5 brakes in the front. Been trying to find a set of GTO spares to use as skinnies.

 

I have front LS1s and the modifications are not that much, especially with the history you have with working on cars. The spindle needs to be trimmed and holes need to be drilled and tapped. A bracket needs to be made for the abutment bracket and that is pretty much it for modifications. I am using my stock brake lines with no issues. If you have your complete setup from your race car then you are not going to be out much money at all. The major issue is going to be the 15" wheels. I am on a very tight budget, so for me saving movey and doing more work is the way to go.

 

need to see if I actually kept my brakes and didn't trash them. Any good links you know of showing the process?

i really like the wheel stud options on aftermarket brakes though...it was nice having true 1/2" studs that were plenty long to pass tech.

 

took me a while due to other projects, but I've finally pulled the car from its grave. I've got it ready for transport and plan on moving it home this weekend to get started.

I'm one lucky SOB...after assessing it, I can't find any substantial rust under the car. just one spot on the right quarter and the driver door...other than that, some minor surface rust in small areas

Its been sitting since 1997

I hope to have my LS2 block and powerglide mocked in the chassis in two weeks

 

subscribed

 

Car is home now...just need to clean and organize the garage.



Ordered a BMR LSx conversion crossmember, BMR subframe connectors, fuel tank sump and poly motor mount inserts to get started

 

Hmm...should I be a true maniac and try to keep AC? After scouring through parts, I have my 4th gen compressor, evaporator, condenser and dryer

 

Firebat on here makes lt1 hoses, maybe he can make you up some lines. You seem to have everything you need so you just have to notch out the kmember, but since you have a tubular kmember you should have proper clearance

 

If I reuse the LS1 evaporator, my ls1 lines may work too...who knows?

kmember shipped yesterday, so I might actually have my mockup block in the car this weekend

 

Man I thought you had given up on the 3rd gen. Are you building an IRS C6?

 

Good luck with that, 16 psi is too much on the street for my 315/60/15 mt radials, est 1320 flywheel hp on e85. Instant smoke from a 60 roll.

I run a moser wavetrack diff.

Nice build, real similar to mine.

 

Are you really going to make 1500-2000 hp without a motor plate and mid plate setup?

I bent solid motor mounts at 1k rwhp.

 

I know its retarded, but I'm gonna try

Mid plate is easy, but using a motor plate and trying to run creature comfort accessories is pretty difficult due to spacing. I will design a wicked strong torque limiter

 

The beauty of turbos is the ability to turn the boost down easily. Just because it can make that much, doesn't mean I have to run it, unless I get angry at my tires

 

Heck my car was roasting et street bias plys at 55 mph on full 15psi and thats only low 700's whp

Sucks to hear about motor mounts..i still have factory clam shells and poly bushings in mine.... and I plan to hit 900-1000whp

 

I have the same parts...oem clamshells and prothane inserts...

 

Keep an eye on them and on the k member attachment point.

 

Will do. So far so good at 650-700whp for 2 years. Didnt even break the stock 10 bolt i hope the mounts will be strong enough

What injectors you guys using?

 

I'm currently running 160 lb/hr Bosch injectors, rated at 45 psi but I'm running them at 60 psi base pressure. I'll run out of injector eventually on e85 but I think the pump will be done first.

 

225lb/hr billet atomizers....put a pic of them on pg1

 

where the stand welds to the k-member? I may gusset it...

 

bmr k-member showed up

 

she's in the garage and on stands to be torn down

 

Subscribing. Stroking out an LS2 instead of going with an LS7 huh? Interesting.

 

no...aftermarket RHS aluminum block
the ls2 is a junk block that I blew up several years ago...stock block and sleeves + 1700 hp = bad news

 

Hah, I see.

 

worked on it all morning. Got the old SBC shortblock, the old T350 tranny and the stock k-member out and did a bit of cleaning until I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp edge . 28 years of grime sucks to clean!





Got the BMR k-member installed. Need to get some long bolts so I can install bolt the ls2 mockup block into the chassis...

 

Can someone tell me what this is (what the arrow is pointing to)?

 

its officially ls-powered now (so to speak) . building headers should be a breeze!

 

Vacuum can for the early cars.

 

Going to follow this one, I'll be building my own headers too shortly out of stainless, tig welding weld els and straight pipes cut to length. Probably larger than 2" primaries (LS7 headed 495)

Always good to see some neat fab work!

 

you don't really need 2". 1 3/4 will keep velocities up to the turbos.

 

thanks...something else for the scrap heap

 

I don't have turbos planned for the car the engine is going in, will be NA carbed. I already have some other stuff w/ turbos and SCs... I'm done with that for now

 

ordered some stuff to keep rolling:

Speedway motors Alternator relocation bracket (moves up high on driver side next to PS pump.


1/2" thick stainlessheader flanges (1 3/4" primaries)
stainless 1.75 into 2.5 collectors
T4 flanges set up for 2.5" pipe

still need to order a bunch of stainless 1.75" bends

looking at a champion 4 core radiator...anyone have any experience with them? Says it cools 850 hp which will be what the motor makes (or less) 99% of the time.

 

Where did you order the flanges?

 

columbia river.

 

Looks like lots of room!

Have you thought about where to put the turbos?

 

totally unoriginal, but they fit NICE over the battery trays

gives cool air supplies from the fender....