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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Didn't get a whole heck of alot done yesterday, but every little bit is a step closer to completion
-Removed the driver door thats rusted out on the bottom.
-Wire wheeled the hinge areas and hit the surface rust with some rust converter
-Cut out some cancer in the driver side toe-kick area, need to get some metal to patch it back together.
-Welded the driver side "stress" crack on the roof.
-Cut the driver side fender support area to fit the AirRaid Turbo filter
-Figured out how I think I want to plumb everything
-Ordered a bunch or stainless mandrel bends to build the headers, intermediate pipes, and the beginnings of the downpipes.
hmmm...what about Viper Red? I shot my race car with the summit racing paint and it came out pretty decent
Didn't get a whole heck of alot done yesterday, but every little bit is a step closer to completion
-Removed the driver door thats rusted out on the bottom.
-Wire wheeled the hinge areas and hit the surface rust with some rust converter
-Cut out some cancer in the driver side toe-kick area, need to get some metal to patch it back together.
-Welded the driver side "stress" crack on the roof.
-Cut the driver side fender support area to fit the AirRaid Turbo filter
-Figured out how I think I want to plumb everything
-Ordered a bunch or stainless mandrel bends to build the headers, intermediate pipes, and the beginnings of the downpipes.
hmmm...what about Viper Red? I shot my race car with the summit racing paint and it came out pretty decent
Looks to me like you got quite a bit done. And you can never go wrong with red!
I definitely understand man. My wife and I are moving to MD at the end of the month and I am looking to connect with the local racers up there. I hope to see your car at Cecil and MIR once you get it together.
I definitely understand man. My wife and I are moving to MD at the end of the month and I am looking to connect with the local racers up there. I hope to see your car at Cecil and MIR once you get it together.
What all is involved with clearancing the billet specialties for the 4th gen brakes? Got link to who/what/where this is described perhaps? Looking at putting a set on a diff im working on thanks
Pulled off the wiper arms that haven't moved in 15 years. Driver side came off with some persuasion, passenger side popped the block out of the arm and it is still stuck on the spindle. Hit it with some penetrating oil to see if I can yank it off tonight. I also ended up cracking the windshield doing this....no biggie though since I planned on having fresh glass installed after paint.
Removed the cowl to assess for cancer in that area. No rust, but something built a wicked nest in the cowl using the Jute padding from under the dash Need to figure out a way to replace the screen in the cowl cover...
Hoping to get the hot side fabricated in the next month or so, figure out where to put some add-ons (radiator overflow, remote oil filter, etc) so I can get the engine bay fully disassembled. I think I'm going to buy myself a decent Eastwood soda blaster so I can fully strip the engine bay to bare metal. I know the DIY blasters take longer, but I have all the time in the world. Besides, I'm all for buying myself new tools
My current goal is to get the entire car into paint by the fall so I can focus on all the laborious tasks like rewiring, plumbing, etc over the winter.
Last edited by Fireball; May 23, 2013 at 06:14 AM.
Anyone have any experience on the fit of S&W rollcages in 3rd gens? I've seen a few pics that look encouraging. S&W is only 1 hour from me, it would be a helluva lot cheaper than having something shipped to me. I don't have the readily available access to a bender or raw tubing like when I built the 4th gen racecar anymore.
yes, actually, i put a 6 pt in for a guy. he bought the door bars that cleared the arm rests and also swingouts. it fit dang good...not much trimming at all.
i don't like their a-pillar bars on their 10pt...unless they changed it.
got the DS header 1/2 mocked up....totally flying by the seat of the pants on these headers LOL
Just a thought before you get too far down the road. Check out the turbo headers Nelson Engines build. Very close to equal length runners for max performance.
Just a thought before you get too far down the road. Check out the turbo headers Nelson Engines build. Very close to equal length runners for max performance.
Good luck
Fitting around accessories and reasonable plug access are more important to me on this setup...I have no plan to run it at peak potential anyhow. Besides, I'm not a believer in equal length on turbo setups
Headers are a pain in the butt LOL. Was originally going to push #7 to the top outside position, but #5 tube would've been too close to the plug wires for my liking, so I pushed #7 to the inside. Plan to run #5 under the #7 pipe then up to the collector
Last edited by Fireball; May 31, 2013 at 02:07 PM.
Hoping to get the hairdryers mounted, the other header built and both headers connected to the turbine inlets over the next few weeks (waiting on flex couplings)
Partially TIG welded in a bracket to mount the driver side turbo, and started the pipe to connect the header to the turbo. Will be putting in a flex connecter at the open joint.
fabbed a second bracket and mounted the other turbo, now the fun job of fabbing the other header. Should be easier than the driver side one was LOL I'll be clocking both turbos downward but need to cut a hole in the battery trays for compressor outlet to clear.
I've been looking for new torque arm setups for my car and I like the Madman setup you're using. Isn't it more like a ladder bar though because of the mount up front not being on a slip link?
Last edited by 84LsxZ28; Feb 29, 2016 at 10:57 PM.
look again, the madman arm does have a slider joint, just like any other aftermarket torque arm. The Madman uses a rod end insert welded to a tube that slides inside the lower tube of the torque arm. it MUST slide, since the torque arm and lca's travel on different arcs due to their differing lengths. the arm i'm using is built by pa racing. it uses a pivot mount that swings instead of a rod end that slides, but the principle is the same.
look again, the madman arm does have a slider joint, just like any other aftermarket torque arm. The Madman uses a rod end insert welded to a tube that slides inside the lower tube of the torque arm. it MUST slide, since the torque arm and lca's travel on different arcs due to their differing lengths. the arm i'm using is built by pa racing. it uses a pivot mount that swings instead of a rod end that slides, but the principle is the same.
Yeah I noticed the slider on the Madman after doing more research on the arm last night.
Does the slider have a way to keep from coming out with a stop of some kind, or is it just much longer than it would slide during suspension travel?
Due to anticipated street driving, I think I'm going to maintain OEM type front configuration (traditional strut/springs instead of coilover).
I'm not going to have much front suspension travel due to high engine power (wheelies bad). Therefore I don't think I need a very complicated strut. My previous racecar only had about 1/2"-1" of travel. Any strut recommendations?
I ran tokico 5 way illuminas and eibach prokit front springs. I ended up with 4/5 setting on front which is almost as stiff as it could go. 5 is stiffest,and less front end rise. It worked fine and at the same time,handled like a boss
That was 1.28 60' on prokit street springs and those shocks, with 18x8.5 wheels up front on a 275 pro radial. Rolling fat at 3800 lbs
My buddy has double adjustable strange or afcos on his 4th gen, and hes been having wheelie issues. His has limiters and set almost as tight as shocks can allow. Only 10 minor adjustments left out of 44-odd combinations allowed on the shocks
Hmmm...they have apparently been discontinued by the manufacturer. Think I'm going to stay with my original coilover plan since I already have the a-arms for coilover setup (no spring pockets).
I'm inquiring on the new AFCO coilover kit that UMI posted about a few months ago since I am going to run AFCOs in the rear...I'm familiar with them from my 4th gen...
good to hear there is some forward movement with the project. think you'll get it out this year?
LOL...
Seriously, if I get major fab work completed and body work/paint done this year I'd be thrilled. I keep upping the ante on what I want to do with the project and it added several thousand dollars in parts....
I got the spindles separated from the factory A-arms last night and attached to the tubular a-arms....the strut bolts just didn't want to budge. What a dirty/nasty job haha!
BTW...your build thread has sparked some ideas for my project
Last edited by Fireball; May 11, 2016 at 06:01 AM.
Need to figure out a way to replace the screen in the cowl cover...
