Yeah that would work well. The point of the brace was to support turbo weight but also be flexible to allow engine to shift on the polymounts. At first i didnt believe i had room for a flex coupler but got one to fit so that took care of the problem. The nuts for spacers support well and do give a tiny bit of movement but its not needed with the flex coupler

 

1/2" chromemoly tube works nice as well...3/8 bolt fits nice with a slight ream with a drill bit.

 

Pulled the factory 10-bolt out....getting drums off that have been on for 15+ years SUCKS

WIMPY WIMPY WIMPY


HEFTY HEFTY HEFTY



I want to weld in the BMR subframe connectors before putting in the new rear.

 

looks like fourthgen width?

 

4th gen powerplant so 4th gen rear? Lol

 

Yes, 4th gen width. I was told that 15x10 (7.5" Backspace) wheels will work fine

Poked a hole in the bottom of the fuel tank to drain the gas....15 year old gas STINKS

cutting bottom of tank anyhow to weld in a sump

 

Need to flush out the tank, but the JEGS sump fits pretty well...

 

NOT a fan of welding tanks. Purged or not I have the scars to show why you shouldnt do it. Pls be safe if you proceeed down this route.

Personally Id swap in a fourth gen tank they are much easier and safer to sump or do the twin in tank kit if thats enough fuel supply? Dunno

 

4th gen plastic? not easy to sump...actually impossible....drilling hole in the bottom is not sumping

Just lit off some of the 15 year old gas on the ground....burns but not very well....I put the tank out in the sun to evaporate it all out...will flush with water and purge I think

need tons of fuel volume for what I'm planning haha

 

Yeah i doubt duals in tank will be enough. Many have sumped stock tanks with success. That shouldnt be an issue. Let it air out a few days it will be fine

 

gonna hold off a few days...ordered a purge setup for my tig. I'm going to argon purge the whole tank after flushing to make sure the oxygen is gone.

 

hmm...maybe a new tank from A1?. They're about $200...bonus is that they are clean and mine has some surface rust on the top side.

 

I have a spectra replacement in mine that I sumped, works great!

 

well...I can get a new Dorman tank from summit for $163....thats worth it in my book

 

you could always just run a 4th gen tank with 3 pumps in the tank, I know there is a few guys on ls1tech running 3 pumps, if you ran the 340lph that would be good to about 1600rwhp i believe.

 

3 pumps? Yeah, just more failure points....eff that!

 

Yep, if I need more than duals which should be to 1000whp, i'll be getting a sumped tank. No point in messing with 3 pumps and all that stuff. It works well but thats alot of pumps and wires.

 

yeah...would rather one massive pump and not mess with that...one pump fails you blow a motor.

 

Me and the MIG welder aren't getting along to well today

wire keeps bunching up at the drive roller

Nonetheless, got the driver side Subframe connector tacked in...

BMR "outside" SFC


Cleaned area before welding in the SFC. small amount of rust on the pinch weld area. wire brushed well and sprayed 3 coats of rust converter. Would never know it sat outside in a "field" for 15 years



SFC tacked in

 

Thought you were suppose to do sfc with chassis loaded but i guess as long as the car is supported flat and level it should work? Looks good tho

 

This build is very cool! What kind of power and torque numbers do you expect to make?

Are you going to keep the car looking like a stock 1984 sport coupe? Ha ha that would be great because people may think that you have a stock V6 or a stock LG4 in that car. Ha ha boy would they be in for a surprise!

 

would be ideal, but as long as its leveled up it should be fine. door jambs look good from a twist standpoint. besides helps that its a hardtop car

 

turned up...about 1500-1900 hp and 1000+ torque.

had to put a cowl hood on it, other than that will look stockish. 10-pt cage will give it way, but I plan on tinting the side and back windows.

 

both SFCs are in. Normally run .024 wire in the mig, but it was a tad too thin for it turned all the way up. Changed out to 0.030" wire and it fixed the problem.

Mocked the rear up in place to get measurements for the coilover shocks. Looks like I'll have to modify the lower shock mounts to get my ride height right. AFCO 3850s will be a too short and 3870s are a bit too long. Had a spare 3870 shock from the firebird anyhow, so I'll make them work




MADMAN 4th gen torque arm...the crossmember is perfect width with the outside BMR SFCs

 

Looking good fireball.


Oh and with the 3 pumps, its the same if you loose your massive pump to as sometimes they just die out of nowhere. Also intake pumps aren't NEARLY as loud as that big *** external. But it seems more of prefrence to the person.

 

looks good!

 

New tank! This is the plan. I purged a tank with Argon after washing it with water and it still lit me up like the 4th of July. If we ever meet just ask to see my left arm.... Lost three finger nails and most of the skin on the hand/arm. Nashty

I had done it many times before with no issues but that one time.... dont have a clue how it happened but it went bad and im a safe fussy worker. Most welders who have experience with this just simply say no to welding used gas tanks. We all know someone who was lit up and before it happened to me? I said the same thing everyone else who tries this says " Ahh that guy was being sloppy or he doesnt know what hes doing etc etc etc" pick your version. Just not worth it for a couple hundred bucks.

As for the mig jamming up? Sounds like you need a new liner. Sometimes you can clean em out with air and some brake clean but its a temp fix and I dont know how good the brake clean is for the plastic gas line. Be sure to use NON Perc brake clean btw if you try this cleaning method. Welding with that stuff can kill ya

 

Interesting... Did you have to trim the crossmember? Or did it just happen to be the right length?

Ive been looking for a way to get my tq arm off my cross member. Not that Ive been having any problems with it, but Ide rather not have it on there.

J.

 

was using too thin of a wire for the amerage I was running...went to the next size wire and it works fine now

 

its the right width...but still not a direct replacement...it has a "foot" on it that is supposed to mate with a rail on the 4th gen used for the inner crossbrace thats commonly removed. MADMAN told me I have to fab up something to brace that area.

I'd imagine there are more forgiving "plug and play" types of torque arms off the crossmember.

 

Fireball..you're still insane. Glad to see that...wheres the nutcase plate? I remember you racing with a trex cam and 6 speed when i was in high school. Killer idea for street car..i sold my 97 TA years ago and got a 3rd gen. Looks awesome!!!

 

I'm very interested in this build. I love seeing the good old sports coupes seeing some love. Its looking good so far. I am very jelous of how solid it is for sitting for so long. Mine sat for 3 years... and now I need new floors!

 

Actually still have the NUTCASE plate. Let them expire long time ago and kept the back on on the race car...good times

 

Like I said....I was stupid lucky there

 

I'm in a bit of a holding pattern....been working some long days at work and have been too wiped out to wrench on it. I think I may go ahead and pull the trigger on the rest of the suspension so I can at least have a roller.

I've got a $100 BMR gift certificate I won at the last LSX shootout. Going to use that towards some BMR a-arms for coil spring conversion. Get the QA1 double adjustable shocks.

I've settled on the idea of using 4th gen rear brakes, so I'm going with the Billet specialties Street Lites that are already clearanced for 4th gen brakes. I'm getting them black anodized.

 

how dare you want the same ballin rims i do! lol they do look REALLY nice.. here is another shot of them

 

Well...where are the updates dude???

 

Got sucked into a big project at work thats required alot of extra hours...haven't felt compelled to turn any wrenches when I get home

 

I've felt inspired to start fabricating again after going to the OCMD car cruise LOL.

So I've stared at it this morning and played around with some ideas. Not saying it can't be done, but I can't reasonably figure out how to plumb two turbos correctly while retaining a 4th gen AC system. The compressor and the little expansion cylinder are just in seriously inconvenient areas

So the revised plan is to retain Power steering and work with that. Will retain the heater though.

Kinda sucks, but such is life

 

You gonna try to make it to the YBnats?

 

No way to custom mod the kmember to pass downpipes and have turbos mounted under battery box trays with a scavenge pump to push oil back?

Large turbos and ac just make things difficult lol

 

This is how I did it. The difficult part is getting the downpipes back inside the frame rails.

 

No...way too much to do.

 

I'm going to avoid a scavenge pump at all costs. Had it on the race car and it took ALOT to make it work the way it should.

 

Which one did you have and what were the issues with it? I have the turbowerx exa pump and dont seem to have any issues. It does worry me that it could fail without notice but perhaps there are ways to wire in indicators...

 

exa, but had a very low turbo. the pump tried to pull too much vacuum on the turbo and it would cause oil to come into the compressor and turbine housings. ended up having to fab up a 2 qt vented catch can for the turbo to drain normally into and use the exa to empty.

 

Hmm mine arent low and i have -8 drains for about a foot down before going into pump suction. I will have to keep an eye out for oil in the housings. Havent noticed much yet, i did have some but that was before i even had a pump.

 

I might've been fighting an uphill battle too...my setup was making 2000+ hp, even pulling vacuum on the motor, it was still pressurizing the crankcase some LOL.

Also had high oil pressure too....the big PT106 needed a lot of oil to keep the bearings happy

 

i would like to know what sfc are those?
im thinking of using jegs adj. tunnel mnt tq arm. but not sold yet.
what trans and trans crossmember are u gonna use?
awesome build.
i originally was gonna build a tt on my 3rd gen. but im in deep with this pd blower build now. im only expecting 700rw ish. same instant tq from the sc.
im looking at the holley dominator efi fuel pump(s).
supposedly they can handle to 1400bhp and the bigger version is 1800$.
im running a 00 ls1 gas tank.

 

BMR "outside" SFCs

Powerglide for a trans. I have a 200R4 crossmember from an 82 that seems to line up fine.