I picked up a 92 rs a few weeks ago and am finally getting around to making plans. I am looking at getting started on an engine swap to replace the anemic 305. I am looking at two options. Should I go with a fuel injected lt1 or an old school carbed 383. I have a buddy that has a 383 short block that was just put together that I can get for $700. I guess my big question is what is the advantage of an lt1 over a 383. This will be an occasional driver with some light track duty. I love hearing everyone's opinions so fire away.

 

The 383 should make more power if done right and an easier swap. The LT1 you may have better cold starts.

 

That is what I was thinking. I am going to check out the 383 short block tomorrow. He has no idea what is in the block except that it has a 501 lift cam. I know where a bare block that has been machined for a 383 setup is also. I can't check on it until tomorrow. If the short block has a steel crank and forged pistons I will get it. If not I will do a full build. If anyone has a 383 that they want to sell and is willing to ship to Va let me know.

 

Here is what I am thinking.
383 forged internal short block 9.5:1
probably run iron heads Sportsman 2 64cc 2.02/1.65 valves
Edelbrock RPM air gap intake
Probably Holley 750 DP carb
Comp Cams 305h magnum (Will have to use retrofit cam to use hydraulic)
1.6 roller rockers.

Let me know if you have any combo recommendations

 

LT1's main advantage would be the better intake and heads over classic SBCs, specially fuel injection.

If you had to scrimp and put stock heads on the 383 I'd say LT1 all the way. But with a good set of heads the 383 would beat out a stock LT1 all day long.

 

I have used the iron sportsman 2 heads and had a lot of luck out of them. I may actually go with a set of AFR heads this time. Cam selection will be the toughest challenge for me. I have always used a roller block. The block I am looking at is from the 60's so I would have to use a retrofit cam if I wanted to go hydraulic roller. I will have to educate myself a little on cams for the older blocks.

 

I would go with the LT1 unless you had enough money left over to buy aftermarket heads (that arent pro comps) AND the 383 is a roller cam block. If the 383 is a flat tappet block OR has iron factory heads, I would go LT1 all day long. Theyre just too cheap and you have a very, very good fuel injection system that works at high RPMs and was factory stock so you know it works right. Only issue is the optispark, but for a good EFI system and a roller cam its worth putting up with it.

But if you have enough money for AFR heads ($1500+) then you may want to consider a Gen III+ swap.

Most 383's, like most homebrew SBC's, are NOT done right. They're usually camel hump flat tappet disasters, if you're lucky. Dont get me started on the summit flat tappet + performer intake + smogger 76cc head 383's you see everywhere. There are stock 305's that can run circles around them.

 

If I do build a 383 it will not be a so called homebrew setup. I do not use so called camel hump or double hump heads. I do like the world products sportsman 2 heads,edelbrock performer rpm intake with a holley 750 dual line carb. I used this setup on my last small block and was making a little over 450hp at 6500 rpm. It looks to me that an lt1 setup would be more costly by the time you buy the engine then machine it and build it. Not including all of the little things you will need to swap it into a throttle body car. I feel that I can build a nice 383 for around $3500-$4000.

 

A running LT1 core can be had with all the supporting hardware (serp belts and harness and computer) for $500 or so and you can make 400fwhp with a cc503 cam and supporting bolt ons. They're also compatible with most of the Gen I stuff that we already have in our cars so the swap is very straightforward.

 

All of the Lt1's that I can find in my area people are asking $1000 plus for them. How much harder will it be to swap the Lt1 into a throttle body car vs a tuned port car?

 

^^

This man is correct. Even when an LS1 swap looks so awesome, an LT1 swap is great on a budget. You still have to do similar work with either swap (electronic fuel pump, crossmember swap, etc) so take that into consideration. Depending on your budget you can search craigslist... I just saw a 5.3 LM7 with all accessories, computer, and harness online for $250 up in New Hampshire. At that cost, you could budget to pickup an LS1 intake, t56, crossmember, spohn mounts and still have some money left over for an LS7 clutch/flywheel from GMPP!

The deals are out there if you're patient.

 

Is the 383 a small journal block? If so you may get more opinions on using it. I don't know of small journal 3.75" stroke cranks so it would possibly have to be a custom cut crank...Just seems like a lot of metal to be removed from a crank...I may be wrong...

 

The 383 is just a 350 block with 400 rods and crank. The only machine work is to the block. If I can find an lt1 motor locally I may go that route. If not I am going with the 383. If I can find some other 3rd gen guys in the area that want to help with a swap then I wouldn't mind doing the lt1 or even an ls1 swap. Just to be clear budget is not the issue for me. My enemy is time. I normally work third shift and by the time I get home I get about 4-5 hours of sleep and back off to work. I have to pretty much do everything on the weekends.

 

Ok, so it's a late 60s medium journal block. Must be from 1968 or 69. Do you know the casting number? What is your area? I have a shop in Macon GA.

 

I am near Kingsport Tn. Gotta any Lt1's you might ship? Here is the ads for the 383 setups that I was looking at.
http://tricities.craigslist.org/pts/3546513976.html
http://tricities.craigslist.org/pts/3442025387.html

 

If you have any parts at your shop or even a complete engine let me know. I would be interested in buying one.

 

Well I just bought this from ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110984035778...84.m1439.l2649

I hope I didn't get burned to bad. What else will I need for the swap? Are the automatic transmissions much better than the 700r4?

 

Bolt-ons, tune, stall and a tire will put you in the 12s all say long. Without sacrificing any drivability or fuel economy.

My bolt on lt1 got 32mpg highway cruising in 6th gear. Also ran low 13s with the iron heads and small b-body cam.

I have a Lloyd Elliot 226/232 on a 110lsa cam for sale pretty cheap i never installed it because i decided to go bigger on a fresh shortblock. On stock heads you be making 350rwhp or so.

 

It'll be the "E" version. In my opinion, it is better. There were some other minor improvements like the front pump, but a lot of them had been incorporated in the later 3rd gen TH700's.

 

As soon as I get the motor I am going to tear it apart get the block checked and probably still do a forged 383 with the LT1 block. Gotta find a good rotating assembly,decide what heads and cam setup that I want to use and look at induction. I also have to decide if I want to go naturally aspirated or possibly forced induction. I know that I will use a water/meth setup from Snow performance. I used these on my mustang and was real happy. Then I will have to decide on what tuner to use. I will have to get the transmission built and find a rear that will handle the power plus strengthen the frame of my rs.

 

Man, you are talking about spending some serious money, you should have just jumped onto the 6.0L LQ9/LQ4 bandwagon with a set of ported heads and a decent cam. You'd easily be over the 450rwhp mark with a mild cam.

 

I was in the process of building a 1988 mustang notchback using a 2012 coyote aliminator block custom heads and cams with a 92mm turbo system to make a 1500hp street car. Decided to get back into 3rd gens instead so sold that project to fund this one. Engines are hard to find in this area especially a 6.0. If I could find one I would get it and shelve my LT1 for an s10 project. If you know where I can a 6.0 please let me know.

 

Junk Yards.

www.car-part.com

Guaranteed to find one.

 

I have a bad habit of going all out. I am looking to make at least 600rwhp.

 

Then you definitely should be looking at a boosted Gen IV setup.

 

Is the 6.0 found in the denali,trucks and trailblazer ss the engine that I would be looking at?

 

Oooh, oooh, I'll race ya in my anemic 305 when your done...

I'd go with the 383 since it was recently put together and fresh...

 

I am looking at the lq4 and lq9 engines online. It looks like I can get them as cheap as the LT1. I just wonder how big of a pain this swap will be? I know that I can do the 383 in a weekend. I don't want this to be a 5 month project. Having the 6.0 sounds great and I do not know anyone in this area that has this setup. I am going to try and do some research on the lq9 vs the lq4 engine and see how long it will take to do the swap.

 

Yes. Thats the one you are looking for.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LS_e...0.93current.29

• 2005–2006 Pontiac GTO
• 2005–2006 Chevrolet SSR
• 2005–2007 Chevrolet Corvette
• 2006–2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
• 2008–2009 Saab 9-7X Aero
• 2006–2007 Cadillac CTS V-Series

Can also look at the 6.2L blocks. L92/LS3/L99. These engines have sigificantly better flowing heads. Example. Stock LS3 heads will flow over 300cfm on the intake as cast.



At that level of power he's talking about spending it makes no sense to go with Gen1 SBC, or Gen 2 SBC. Make the jump to Gen 3/4.

 

It looks like the 6.2 engine is way more expensive. How difficult of a swap is the lq4 or lq9?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sear...archid=5704114

Start reading. I haven't done this swap into a 3rd gen, but I have into a 4th gen. Most people do the 6.0L engine, but use Gen 3 harness/pcm stuff.

 

You make it sound like the SBC is essentially useless lol, why would you say that it would make no sense? A 383 SBC can get the job done just like any other engine can, hell a V6 can make 600-RWHP without breaking a sweat too for that matter, and besides, that level of money can be invested in a quality turbo charger, wastegate, 321 stainless header system, as well as an XFI unit. Let's also not forget what he states in his very first post...;

... so how deep into it is he really planning to get? First an occasional driver, then its 600-RWHP. He could probably nab that 383 for five hundred bucks if he wanted to, but I digress. It sounds like he wants something unique, because he stated, and I am paraphrasing, "not too many people have that setup" where he lives, so maybe that may be what he is going for? Possibly. But a 383 can make 600-RWHP no problem with a power adder, so it does make sense if that is his goal.

 

Gen 3/4 are the current and future hot-rod engine swaps of choice. The Gen5 LT1's fuel system changes and other items will make it a harder swap for many years to come. For the same money invested they make more power, more reliably.

 

All of the lq4's that I am looking are coming out of 2500 series trucks. any difference from these

• 2005–2006 Pontiac GTO
• 2005–2006 Chevrolet SSR
• 2005–2007 Chevrolet Corvette
• 2006–2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
• 2008–2009 Saab 9-7X Aero
• 2006–2007 Cadillac CTS V-Series

Does it need to be an engine from 2005-2009? Here is one that I found and can purchase now. Let me know if this it! Thanks guys.

 

Ok my ultimate goal is 600 rwhp. Yes it would be nice to have a unique swap for this area. I know more about the old school pushrod motors than the new generation engines. I am almost 40 years old so the new stuff would be a learning curve. I also have access to alot of sbc performance parts. I get distracted real easy and have a habit of going overboard. I am glad to see different opinions. I would honestly be happy with either swap. the big thing that I need to look at is time to complete. Dropping in a small block requires little effort where a 6.0 would take considerable more work and a lot more parts to complete the swap. Now I am confused on what to do. My gut says old school 383. My adventrous side says 6.0. So if you don't mind can you tell me what I would gain from going with the 6.0 vs the 383??

 

I need to make my final decision tonight so I can start going forward. Really need you help on this guys. I hate tough decisions.

 

300-RWHP w/15-psi will net you your goal of 600-RWHP, now ask yourself what is more important to you, ease of an installation and getting it done fast, or the uniqueness of an engine, and having something not everybody else does in their third gen. It's your call...

 

- Factory casting cylinder heads that flow 300+ CFM (L92's, ported 243's)
- Better rod/stroke ratio
- 6 bolt, deep skirt block
- gun drilled large base circle camshaft raised in block
- lightweight valvetrain
- O Ring type gaskets
- Gerotor type oil pump
- Factory windage tray
- Factory fuel injection/engine management that's tuned by EVERYONE with a dyno
-Intake manifold with no coolant or oil contact
- Leak free. Dry as the Sahara without even trying.
- Coil on plug igntion that doesn't misfire, ever. Even a regular SBC would see gains with this technology.

These cute little LS engines make absurd power when modded.

 

^ Yup, all that and 90-mph trap in the 1/8th too lol...

 

True. But then again, I never even pulled a valve cover.

 

Can anybody tel me from experience how difficult and time consuming the 6.0 swap would be?

 

I was teasing you. LSX engines are awesome, but come on, if he can get a 383 recently freshened up for that much, I would buy it and have some freaking fun with it. He can always build an LSX down the road...

 

Start running faster than mid-10's and >130mph, it doesn't matter if you're running SBC or LS.

But as always for the average hot-rodder, the LS reigns supreme! But then again, most average hot-rodder's never get a real driveline in place to enjoy the power anyway.

 

Well I missed out on the 383 short block. I just emailed him and it sold today. So I guess I am going with the 6.0. Now all i need to know is this the engine I should be looking at?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-06-Chevy-...1b8fb0&vxp=mtr

If this is it let me know and I will make the purchase!

 

So do I use a lq4,lq9 or ls1 block?

 

OK all I need is a recommendation on the block lq4,lq9 or???

 

If you are going forced induction or high HP, stay away from the aluminum ls1 block, the iron truck blocks are more durable in these situations. Lq4 will be cheaper due to slightly lower compression and smaller cam. I *think* the lq4 is 10:1 and lq9 is 11:1. If you are totally going through the engine, I would go lq4, since the parts that make the lq9 more powerful get swapped anyway. If you don't want to redo the shortblock, just buy the one that better suites your needs as far as compression is concerned.

 

^ Agreed!

 

Should I purchase a setup that has all of the bolt on accessories,wire harness and ecu or just the engine?

 

lq4 - 9.5:1
lq9 - 10.2:1

only differences were the pistons..so buy an lq4 since ppl charge an arm/leg for lq9's and it isnt worth the name sake.

lq's loveee boost out of the box with their low comp and 317 heads that are the same as 243 heads with a large chamber.

Look at my sig and you see what power i made on my stock block lq4 with just cam and ls6 intake on stock manifolds and clogged cats if that gives you an idea power wise.

Id buy just the engine and then buy the fbody accessories,oil pan and pickup, intake and fuel rail. This will be the easiest to install on the stock k member and least amount of modding.

If you buy the engine complete intake to pan with harness and ecu make sure it is a drive by cable setup.I dont know what involved with fitment going this route for oil pan clearance,aswell the truck intake sit higher than the hood I believe so you might want to search up on what others have done who kept the truck stuff.