92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

I know this has been beat to death, but I was wondering if there would be a reason you would not need a resistor inline with a lt1 alternator.

mine has been charging for years just fine at 14v and I was thinking about adding the 470Ohm resistor just incase, but in a thread from way back in the day I read something about the 95 harness having a resistor in it already. I'm thinking maybe that's why mine has lasted so long and is not overcharging. I have the brown wire from the bulkhead connector that goes to the gauges connected right to the alt. It was the same wire that went to from the gauges to the alt on the previous v6 harness.

Any ideas? I'm getting 12v switched at the small signal wire.

rickyzZ28

iTrader: (4)

When I first did my swap in lie 2002 I did not run the resistor and never had a problem. Back then no one had a write up about the resistor so I did not run one. I pulled the motor out in 2010 and put it in my dads car and it still had the same alternator I put on back then. I did decide to run the resistor for his swap, but it made no difference. I am not saying do not run one, but for me I never had any charging issues or burned up alternators. My alternator was from a 93 as well.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Some 3rd gens use resistance wire in the dash on the dedicated alt wire from the c100. Which do and don't use it really doesn't matter when comparing a dollar resister vs $125 alt

I know for a fact LSx alts WILL burn up on full voltage

keeslinger31

I had issues burning up alt on my swap and I tried to add resistors and such

Turns out I was just getting crappy rebuilt alternators
The one I have now has been working for 3+ years

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

So I noticed there was two ways to do this mod. I know I have been OK up until now, but out of precaution wanted to do it. So I set out to see which way was easier. My options are connect 12v to the f terminal on the alternator or solder a resistor in line with the wire that connects to the alternator.

It didn't take long to figure out what I was going to do.

I went with the field service connector route even though I had the resistor in my hand.
Here are a few pictures to show how easy it was. Who knows it might even help someone else out in the future. Its completely reversible in less than 5 minutes too. No wires needed to be cut. Even while snapping pics I was done in less time then it would take for my solder gun to reach full temp.

step one: I removed the rubber orange plug from the connector.


step two: I located the wires new location, it will be moved one slot over.


step 3: remove the white retainer clip that holds the wire in place.


step 4: remove the wire from its current location


step 5: move the wire one slot over to the F location


step 6: reinstall white retainer


step 7: reinstall the rubber grommet


Fire up the car and test for proper voltage. It will be a few volts more than when the car was off. Somewhere around 13.5-14.5 is common.

tnitz8787

That looks pretty easy 92rs, but I feel like I'm missing something... How does moving the wire one position eliminate the need for a resistor and allow the alternator to still function properly?

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

Because essentially, by moving the wire your telling it to output about 13.5 all the time. Just enough to charge, but not overcharge.