I test fitted my Hawks T56 cross member tonight and noticed it hits the fuel lines running along the frame. I was thinking about unbolting the clips for the fuel lines and run them under the cross member. Is that the correct way of installing it?

Also, do any of you know if this T56 cross member will work with a 4L60E?

I'm having a hard time locating a LS1 M6 swap for under 4 grand. I'm finding quite a few low mile LS1 Auto pull outs so I may keep the car automatic for the time being, due to my budget. But I already purchased this cross member so I'd like to use it if possible.

I managed to get the LS1 motor mounts installed though, what a PITA getting to the nuts inside the engine cross member.

 

nope, they are 2 different mounts, the t56 are not cheap. If you can't find one under 2200 bucks you should look at the Magnum from these guys

http://www.libertysgears.com

 

Run the lines over the crossmember so when it's removed, there's nothing preventing it from coming out

The 4l60e is a very respectable transmission. Don't sweat using one, it won't be a boring drive with one

 

Thanks Pocket... either way I'll be happy. Just having an LS1 in this car will be enough for me. I'm using my annual training check, from the Reserves, to pick up a pull out when I get back in the middle of May. Already have my mounts, just need the fuel lines, regulator, headers and throttle cable. Then the wiring, which scares me to death. If I have enough sense to do it myself.

Updates to follow in a few weeks... got to have this car done before the F-body beach bash in Myrtle Beach.

 

Don't be afraid of the wiring. Follow the write ups on here and you're set! Take the time to learn and educate yourself and it will help you in the long run... Of course, guys like Pocket are great to ask questions to if you get stuck (but I try not to bother them too much).

I'm also waiting for a pay from the military so I can get my LS swap completed. I have the motor, the trans and a few other odds and ends but need the $ for all the little pieces.

 

I have the hawks double-hump cross member and I couldnt get it to install without running the lines under the cross member, they just interfered to much when trying to run them over the cross member.

 

Yeah it wouldn't clear on mine either, so I loosened the hold downs for the fuel lines. That will make it a little easier to snake under the crossmember when I drop the engine and trans in the car.

Well the car is ready, LS mounts installed, harness removed and bay is cleaned and painted semi gloss black. Turned out pretty good... I will be purchasing the pullout around the 14th of May when I return from Annual Training. Can't wait to get this swap finished! Been dreaming about this for years.

Anyway, here is a pic of how the engine bay looks so far. Once I get the motor and trans I'll take some more of the process.

 

I ran the lines under the trans cross-member on my LS1/4L60E swap. The lines were very close to the exhaust so I used some heat wrap sleeve on them.

 

That is close, wow... I'll have to pick up some heat wrap as well. I noticed you have a polyurathane trans mount... do you feel any vibrations with it?

I bought one, as well as a poly torq arm mount to install when I do the swap. But I had a friend tell me that polyurethane trans mounts cause driveline vibrations to be felt inside the car. So I don't know how much truth there is to that.

Are you running a Hawks y-pipe?

 

I have urethane trans, engine & torque arm mounts. No drivetrain vibrations but things vibrate inside the car while idling in gear at stop lights. I bumped the idle in gear with a/c on, up 50 RPM in the tune, which helped, but I'll go back to rubber engine mounts (maybe trans too) after I finish choking on the fact I'll be spending money to downgrade. I had the same trans & torque arm bushings in my TPI/700R4 setup with no vibrations.

I've got the Hawks y-pipe, but went with v-band clamps on the collectors instead of slip-fit as they engineered it.

 

what exhaust clamps are you using? looks great!

 

They're from Summit Racing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-694300/overview/

 

Try switching just the trans mount back to rubber first and see how you like it. I did OEM rubber, poly then solid mounts all with a rubber trans mount. Doesnt bother me one bit as LSx engines are super smooth. My LO3 with rubber mounts would rattle the T-tops at idle. Now I have a very hot LSx with solids and I dont have any interior rattles

My LCAs with end links and tunnel mounted TA give way more feedback than the mounts. Then again, I never intended to build a Cadillac

 

That certainly would be the least amount of work to see if it helps. Thanks.

 

I changed the transmission mount to rubber like you suggested & I can't believe how much it improved the vibration. At this point I probably WILL NOT change back to rubber for the engine mounts. Thanks.

 

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did you have any fitment issues with your hawks crossmember? I have the same one and running into some