Starting into the last stages of this build and just had a few questions again (go figure!) Anyways I'm using the 4l60 swap mount from hawks. Do we use the trans mount from a 4th gen then?

Also gauges! I plan on hitting speedhut up once they do their sale and wanted to know if i need anything special for the coolant temp and oil pressure. Is it as simple as replacing then 2 already in motor with mine or does the ecm need them? Sorry i didnt really see anything covering to much on the gauges aspect.

And if possible what fitting do I need for a fuel line to fit the fuel rails?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Didnt specify LT1 or LS1, so Ill cover both

Trans mount is conditional, 4th gen if theres one center hole for the stud. Use a 94 CK2500 with the 4L80E mount if theres two holes

Your 87 GTA will have all electric analog gauges. Tach, speedo, MIL are computer controlled. Oil is a sender just like your TPI for both swaps. LT1s use a coolant temp sender just like TPIs, or you can even use your TPI sender directly. LS1s haved two options: use a 98 3 wire CTS which has an analog output or drill the pass cyl head hole bigger and run the TPI sender. Alternatively you can turn down the TPI sender to M12 threads

Both engines use a quick connect fitting on the rails. Both 3/8" feed, LT1 5/16" return. Some people have issues with the plastic spring lock, so a screw on retainer design was released. See both here
http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...EFI%20Fittings

 

Sorry, yea ls1/4l60e. As far as my tpi stuff. When I got it it was already gone so half of it never worked. That's wire I was just going to go with the speedhut stuff and do all new. So any recommendations on that since it will have their sensors?

 

You can either run all the LS1 senders to the respective body locations and then draw all your gauge wiring from the OEM cluster connectors OR run new wiring for everything

Thumbing through the catalog I see some CAN-BUS gauges. This can be useful if you have a newer LSx (corvette, new truck etc). The gauge senders are replaced by sensors on the engine, all data goes back to the PCM and returns on the serial data stream along the ODBII connector. Therefor you have one wire feeding info to ALL gauges along with the obligatory power and ground which can be split among the group

You most likely have a Fbody dropout, so Id stick to analog senders for the universal gauges, but the can-bus is very interesting for future endeavors

 

It's a dropout from a 2000 sierra. I'm sure I can trace all the wiring from the cluster. I just wanted to update my gauges altogether. New motor, new gauges. If you think it would just be smarter (definitely cheaper ). To just rewire from the cluster. I can just deal with that.

Here's what I'm looking at if you're not familiar with speedhut.
http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR4-DU...-Temp,-Oil-psi

Nvm, ls1tech said you can tap the plate where the oil filter goes, and use passenger head for coolant temp. But I can still use my stuff so that's always a bonus

 

So you've got a 5.3/truck 4L60E. Theres alot to get before thats ready to drop in a 3rd gen

Id keep it simple, same senders a LS1 swap would use. Stock oil, 98 CTS wired to the factory locations, then repin the cluster connector to feed the new gauges. FYI, the stock gauges work fine with a swap

 

Yea, iv already swapped everything over. It's in the car. Just need wiring, fuel system and a tune. I think I'll keep the stock stuff for now if I can find the patience. I'm sure I'll a few more questions on that but seems straight forward. Eventually I think I'm going to update,the gauges for a new look/feel. My interior is actually pretty clean or I would have done the swap with interior as well lol.
Thanks pocket! Just need to decide if I want to buy the harness or go through it myself.

 

Alrighty

Read over the tutorials I wrote for the harness. If you get stuck feel free to ask or I can build you one

 

Awesome, yea I had a inquiry on one. Just debating on the price vs doing it by myself. Your price is very nice btw

 

Instead of making a new thread, I just wanted to see what everyone does for the vent line on the coolant crossover. Iv seen the water pump getting driled and tapped. Just curious to see what everyone else has done. Could you by chance maybe run it to where the overflow fitting would be? Idk if that would work but figured I'd ask lol

 

It needs to be pressurized, so the overflow port wont work

Fortunately, most 3rd gens have threads on the ID of the heatercore port just below the overflow port. It IS pressurized and a common 1/4" barb can be inserted and the steamline run direct. For those that arent threaded, Ive seen some reducers used to still use the port without any permanent mods to the WP

 

Interesting, I'd have to look at mine but I think there's a pkug there. I never even thought of that.

 

Pocket my friend, you indeed are correct! (as always) stopped at Azone for a fitting and hose it goes together perfectly. Now i did see a couple of ideas on how to mod for the stock cable, Is there a better option out there? I no longer have a means of fabbing anything due to a job change recently so I am currently stuck on this. Almost looks like you can drill out the arm so the original bolt could work that way but the rest needs to be "held" Suggestions or ideas on this guys? Also id like to apologize for the questions but i dont feel like getting stranded because i was to stubborn to just ask in the first place!

 

A 4th gen non-traction control cable is a touch long but works fine. You'll need a big washer or bit of sheet metal to mount to the firewall as the push lock is much smaller than the 3rd gen

There were two different types of TBs and matching cables used in 4th gens. I havent seen any reason either cable wont work. You'll have to adjust it to get the pedal off the floor and to reach WOT. I mix bending the pedal arm and adding zipties to the cable to take up slack

 

Oops, I sent it on my phone and it corrected shiftercable to stock cable. I haven't made it that far yet. But good info on that Pocket. Any suggestions on the shifter cable?

 

Use the 3rd gen cable, trans bracket and the arm off the 700R4. It will bolt to the 4L60E just fine

 

Ahh ok I'll have to find someplace to get them then. Thanks Pocket
If I can't find the bracket , could I just switch to a 4th gen shifter cable? Just trying to weigh my options

 

Likely have to use the 4th gen shifter too then

Find a V6 auto in a JY?

 

Is there a way to modify shifter to accept it? Not sure on jy yet just trying to figure things out. Im pretty sure i can modify the stock 4l60e are then maybe use some metal and make a bracket to hold the cable. I played with it last night and as long as you prevent it from moving it does work so if all else fails ill do what i do best and wing it. As long as i get this thing to start before winter ill be happy.

 

Give it a shot. I managed to fab a bracket/arm combo to use the stock shifter/cable on a 4L80E. Anything will work if you fiddle with it enough