Hey everyone! I'm new here this is my first post. I've been reading here for a while but decided it was time to join. I plan on purchasing a third gen really soon on the cheap to swap a 5.3l/T56 combo in it. I'm looking for v8 manual cars. The RS seems most affordable and readily avalaiable. However I'd prefer to start with a z/28 or iroc. This will be a road course build. I was wondering which of the two would be a stronger starting platform?

 

If this is a road course build, as you say, then you gain nothing by starting with a Z28 or IROC-Z, except maybe a hood. And the '82-'84 Z28 hoods were fiberglass, but I've seen pics of those coming apart at highway speeds.
If you're doing a 5.3 swap, then no need to start with a 305 either, you gain nothing you'll keep, versus starting with any '85-up V6. Plus the V6s weren't beat on so hard. So find a car with no structural damage, no rust, never crashed, and no t-tops. Pre-'90 is better for no airbag in the middle of the steering wheel. But I think '89 got ABS? Look into that, I'd want to have that.
If you're serious about the road course aspect, then you'll be swapping a tubular K-member with rack-and-pinion steering, so even the Z steering box isn't necessary.
Starting with a 5.3 is fine, and is a budget thing, but by the time this car is competitive, you'll have so much invested that the extra cost of an aluminum-block version will be nothing. Aluminum-block 5.3s are under $1000 around here, and for a track car, the TKO600 beats the T56 in every way except initial cost.

 

No 3rd gen got ABS

 

How can that be when my buddy's '89 S-10 has it? Looks simple enough, I was considering such a swap / retrofit for my '86 'maro.

 

You are correct but the S10 (I had a '91 S10 Blazer 4X4 a good little truck) had a single channel ABS rear wheels only though. The F-bodies did not get it til the 4th Gen cars came out. I had considered trying to retrofit it to my Z but figured the big ole tires were ABS enough. After installing my LS1 big brake kit I ruined (flat spotted) a brand new set of BFG "Z" radials stopping the beast trying to avoid hitting another car. Those LS brakes have a lot of clamping force.

 

And the '82-'84 Z28 hoods were fiberglass,

My 84z has a steel hood

 

Id rather replace tires than my front clip...

FWIW, tires may hate it but locking them stops a heck of alot faster than ABS. OTOH, control goes out the window in anything other than a perfectly strait braking course

 

Sho nuff, the 30 mile drive home that night was very un-nerving. In one bad stop I wore flat spots down to the 3/32 depth, they were shot.

 

No, it doesn't. Once the tires break traction, they have less grip. It's exactly the same as traction control, but in the opposite direction. You can't accelerate as well when the tires are spinning as when they're not. That's why ABS was invented. Especially so in inclement weather. This extra control when braking mid-turn, that was figured out later, because people who can really drive well ( pro test drivers included ) do the braking before the turn, not mid-corner like the average zombie just commuting in inclement weather.
If you're gonna push an old car with big brakes and a boosted LS, then ABS, if retrofitted is the last line of defense against sliding into a tree when you enter a curve too fast. Let's hope you never push yours that hard. I plan to, why else have the big HP with the big rotors upgrade with the Brembo 4-pistons upgrade inside the 10.5 inch wide front wheels upgrades?

 

I agree with this but who makes an ABS retrofit for our cars that is honestly tuned to the cars we put together and to be affordable to boot.

 

Actually, it does

The R to F weight transfer under heavy braking negates the traction loss. If it didnt, you wouldnt flatspot tires. You can try it yourself by measuring stop distance from xx speed with ABS, then remove the fuse and retry. We did testing on the FASE team and ABS seemed to increase stopping distance by about 10%, but we could brake later in a curve which is the real reason racecars have ABS retrofitted. You also NEVER see it retrofitted to vehicles that dont see turns IE drag

Also, you should look into how ABS actually works before treating it as a godsend of automotive engineering

 

Never really thought about it that way, I do know it saves our tails on heavy jets in the airline business. Without it we would have pilots all over the runways in bad weather and blow outs constantly. ABS in autos is really needed for the panic stops encountered on the roads mostly due to the lack of driving experience of the driving public.

 

I def agree with that. Didnt know big planes used abs too, but it makes sense. Their brake systems are nuts

 

They have wheel speed transducers in each axle controlling anti lock up in opposite wheels on that side of the aircraft to reduce the chance of blown tires and to maintain braking control on the runway on landing. They also incorporate auto braking to assist the pilot in minimum to maximum braking performance depending on runway conditions selectable by the pilot. (Sorry to go off topic)

 

Hey guys, sorry for not responding for a while! Life got busy. School, exams, work, yada yada. Thanks for the knowledge on ABS lol. I'm finally getting the appropriate funds together for buyin my third gen. It was mentioned that I should start with a v6 car as opposed to a v8. Can some one explain why? Wouldn't the v8 have stronger parts to handle the 5.3L power better? This is going to be a budget build. However I don't wanna cheap out on safety and chassis rigidity.

 

Find the best chassis you can for the money regardless of the original engine

V8's are more likely to have a posi rearend. Beyond that, you're roughly the same starting off

 

Gotcha thanks guys. Does anyone know if the 5.3L engine would be lighter then the original v8?

 

Yes, quite a bit. My front end raised up 2" from TBI to iron block LSx

 

I just want to chime in about ABS. ABS stops faster on a flat surface, but not on a deformable one. I did snow testing a few years ago, in the snow pack, locked wheels stopped faster because they dig in the longer you slide. On the ice pad, once the wheels were locked, the car/truck would skate almost the entire length of the pad. ABS was way faster on the ice pad.

 

Also guys out of curiosity how much could I expect to recoups by selling the parts I don't need for the swap. I know there is no definitive answer to that question. But assuming everything is in good condition, if I sell the old engine,transmission, all the seats, steering wheel, hood, wheels and tires do you think it's plausible I could get about 1k back?

 

That depends entirely on your market... and I mean that seriously. There's no way to throw a number out. Took forever to sell off my old motor and I had to take a large loss to do it, but I needed the space and my engine stand more.

Comb through craigslist and ebay. Best answer.

 

Depends what you start with

V6 stuff is mostly scrap, TBIs are mostly scrap. TPIs have some value in a few parts but dont expect much. If you've got lots of time, you can deal with a bunch of $10-20 parts in the WTB section and make most of it

 

True, I sold my SLP headers, AIR delete idler, SLP Siamese runners, and Spohn T/A. Only got $1000.00 but was happy with that. Don't expect much. This stuff is used some pretty hard. Still would like to sell the engine, TPI kit with harness and 7730 computer but expect it to take a lot of time.

 

Yeah that's true I'm not looking to make a fortune on it. I've located a few cars I'm going to look at this weekend. Can't wait to get started. Who would you say makes the best suspension parts for the third gen? Sphoon?

 

I think it's personal preference in most cases. I talked to Steve Spohn at length some time ago. He and I are of the opinion that his bad rap comes with some people turning wrenches on these cars need to find another hobby. His stuff for the most part are geared around track racing set up for race cars, most performance parts manufacturers give this disclaimer with their parts. Such as the T/A I sold, it simply will not work with the LT headers I'm installing on my Z without major re-design of the cross member and I'm not that good a welder (gotta know your limitations).

 

Sphon's gotta bad rep? I understand what your saying though. I'm still learning about the third gens and the info here has been amazing. What's a popular racing bucket around here? I like corbeaus and recaros, any of you guys run racing buckets? Also what is the going rate of a used complete 5.3L vortec? There are some 2006+ used examples for around 2k online. Idont mind paying for a quality engine. I'd prefer a new crate engine though but also need a T56 and those are kinda pricey

 

Used T56 kits are going through the roof. A few hundred more than most used kits can net a brand new T56 magnum from tremec that can handle 95% of the builds on this forum

Remember, the long block engine is the cheapest part of the conversion. Dont blow your budget on that alone

 

Here in ohio t56's are easily 2k and a rather rare (from what iv seen) 5.3's though and easy to find and around 400-500 bucks a pop.

 

Any good sources for finding a 5.3L or possible another LS based long block? I'd prefer it complete as possible. I check out summit and they don't have some bad prices I could get a new warrantied LC9 truck engine from chevy for around 5k but honestly that's about 1-2k more than I really want to spend on an engine. I feel like going used is the way to go provided as the engine is in good shape.

Thanks for the Info on the T56 magnum, how much are the t060 trans running for? Has anyone tried those in a 3rd gen?

 

Some guys have a bad opinion of his stuff but it is pretty good over all. This site is great for info on 3rd gens and guys on here are great for info just be respectful and you'll be good. I want to use Corbeaus in my Z but the drivers in my car has an electric platform and I don't know if it will work with Corbeaus seats. We'll see. I am spoiled to the versatility of the power seat adjustment, much wider range of adjustment for the driver.

 

I agree electric adjustments for seats are nice but this will be a barely legal street car used 98 percent of the time at the track. Not to mention I'll be the only one driving it so manual adjustments aren't a big deal for me.
So what do most people do for the computer/wiring side of things for this swap?

 

They contact me

 

Oh really? Looks like I'm starting to learn the ins and outs of third gen.org lol you build harnesses or source them pocket? Would you mind sending me a pm with info and prices.