Ah ok, so Ide have to basically burn 4 credits to get one new Truck PCM up and running with Fbody file.

I think Ill just stick with the PCM I have. Sucks because HPT is making $600 off of me/my PCM haha. I should have just saved up for my own copy right off the bat. But at least I got to play with it and learn on it before committing.

Zach...Im not realizing it should have been one of the first things I purchased. I swapped back in 2006, and the previous owner of my donor car was using HP Tuners, and had the car already tuned. So I didnt really need it. But boy it would have been much easier to afford when I was still living at home, with no wife, and no kids

J.

 

From my understanding only need 2 credits

Yea it is a investment but you can find a hpt on ls1tech for around 300 ish then 2 credits so 400 ish out of pocket

That's what I did

Trust me I know I have wife and a 6 month old son
Really contemplating getting 14/15 1le or Chevy ss sedan and leaving the thirdgen for the time being wife would be more happy and I still get v8 muscle

 

I may be wrong, but I burnt 4 credits, but I had to convert from a truck ecm. If you start with an fbody ecm and just want tu tune it, 2 is all you need.

 

any updates???

 

Eh...not really. The car is running great right now. Fueling is decent, throttle response is better than it has ever been, and power is reasonable. I still think the car has more in it, Im just not sure where to find it.

Im trying to figure out my timing table now. Its just so crazy looking. Huge jumps. Not smooth at all. Trying to get help over on the HP Tuner board also to see if anyone has any suggestions.

If my timing is pretty much untouchable, Im going to work on closed loop, trying to get DFCO to work, and seeing if I can get my idle dropped back down. Which means Ill have to work on my stumbling/stalling issue. I think I need a clutch switch for DFCO to work correctly, and I need it for cruise control anyway, so Im going to wire one in.

Honestly, I hate the idea of turning the MAF back on. The car feels amazing right now. Im afraid of what turning MAF and fuel trims back on will do to her haha. But I want to at least try. Part of me wants to TIG up some 4" aluminum tubing and make my air intake go from the TB straight to the air filter and ditch the MAF all together hahaha.

Justin

 

This how mines started to look like this was still in the running process not final I cut timing out across entire table at the end



Hptuner you can control the actual timing and can see where engine is happiest with help of buddy , but you want least timing that makes the most power

A good tool is looking to see your knock counts and subtract timing as you want zero knock
Some engines like more timing others less

It's really something you have to see what your engine likes the most and playing with the timing control really makes life easier at times

Stock ls1 tunes I've seen usually 25 - 28* on stock engine

You have to take into account knock retard and counts if you have any then dial timing back

Only other true way is using load bearing dyno to compare dyno graphs and adjust from there

 

I have zero knock counts as of now. At first I had a couple small ones during launch, but I think I fixed those by adjusting my ehxuast. Im pretty sure it was false.

I def think a dyno is the way to go. Im not trying to get peak power out of it at this poing. Im just trying to make sure I have the table in a decent spot so the car is as good as it will get without a dyno. And right now, I just cant imagine all the jagged movements are good for efficient operation.

Here's what mine basically looks like:



Im about to just hand smooth it and see how the car responds. My only issue is, Im not 100% certain which areas are useless (car never sees them) and which areas I would likely even notice the diffence. Higher RPM = higher cylinder airmass right? and thats where Ide want the lower numbers for WOT. Idle would be higher, and then it should slope down from there?

Justin

 

Just smooth table

80-100 kpa area you can assume WOT
60-80kpa more less in your cruise rpm area is your cruising area
Anything under 50koa is decel
Every engine setup is slightly different
You won't utilize or never hit all areas. So for those just follow the trend and will be good

Lower air mass = high kpa
And vice versa
You have backwards idle lower and advance increase to wot
Every engine wants are different

 

But need to smooth those spikes out unless engine isn't happy